duncann

Here's a couple of links about this that might be helpful: http://line6.com/support/topic/137-has-anyone-sent-their-pod-hd-to-r3fxcom-for-footswitch-upgrade/ http://line6.com/support/topic/3587-cleaning-foot-switch-on-hd500/

Perhaps check User Account Control and set it to 'never notify' before installing the drivers.

What version of Windows are you using? And do you know what type of account you're using (Administrator, Guest, Power User, User, etc.)? It sounds like there might be some driver installation policy restrictions going on. Have you ever installed drivers for other devices on that computer?

I would assume you're using the edit software? If so, to change the BPM, you have to do it on the unit for it to stick. This is probably a bug.

I had the same problem as edstar1960. When calibrating the pedal the toe position would always go to 255, but the heel position would only go as low as 45. After a few tries of this I tightened the pedal resistance and cleaned the area around the pedal (including the hole underneath) of any possible dust (I remember reading somewhere that the pedal is optical). And not pushing hard on either extreme as edstar1960 said is also a very good tip. It now works perfectly from 0 to 255.

The sample rates on the POD are 44.1, 48, 88.2, and 96.

That makes more sense.

This seems normal. I could get it to visually work the way you want, but it's useless because the lo-res delay would be pre-split and the color-drive post-split. So it seems the light behavior is determined by pre- and post-split positions.

Maybe or maybe not related, but I use the spdif output going into a cheap, powered converter from coaxial to optical. Then that goes into my computer sound card's optical input. In the recent past the sound would seemingly randomly stop. To fix it I would unplug the coaxial cable from the POD and then simply plug it back in. It turns out that electromagnetic noise from a fluorescent light was most likely the culprit. Whether the cheap converter was the thing being affected or the spdif interface of the POD, I don't know. Could be either. It might be worth noting that the fluorescent light is powered by an electronic ballast.

I've had this happen to me as well, just as sbeattie7 says. Only it's not limited to the digital delay/dotted 8th combo. I can recall it happening with the analog delay w/ mod and stereo delay with the 1/4 (dot), 1/4 (3), and 8th (dot). Can't recall it happening on non-(dot)(3) timings though. I doubt it's anything to do with the tap temp button as I never use it, even accidentally. My guess is it's a bug with an unknown trigger that can make the behavior seem random.

Single push the control that sticks up on the left side. That brings up the setlists. Use the same control (by turning it either way), or use the arrow pad control on the right side, to highlight the setlist you want. Then hit the enter key on the right side. Then single push the control on the left side again (the view button works also).

I've had this happen to me numerous times. While it could be what silverhead said, 99% of the time I use hdedit and never touch the hardware. I think it might be a very stupid bug in hdedit (a user input bug). It depends on how you change the value of the volume control. I've gotten in the habit of selecting the control by single clicking and then using the keyboard arrow keys to change the value, or maybe a simpler way to remember this is just ignore the edit box. I can't recall the strange behavior occurring since I've done it this way. Another similar and weird one is the minimum and maximum edit boxes on the controller tab. If you double click in the edit box to change the value and then hit enter, then change tabs and go back to the controller tab, the values you just changed went back to what it was before you changed them. Very aggravating.

Glad to help. If you ever lose those files, you can also get them back by reflashing the firmware. During this process it asks if you want to keep any custom patches. Just answer no.

I happen to have them. hd500.default.setlists.zip

Just assign a single switch to all of the effects you want to toggle. So, for example, set: reverb1: fs1 reverb2: fs1 delay1: fs1 delay2: fs1 etc.

Couldn't you do this now? At least for recording, anyway. Just set the cabinet to none on the POD and load your IRs in whatever DAW you use. Of course, this probably isn't very practical for live use. Another thing to consider is the built in IRs are a little more than just IRs (see the deep edit parameters).

For individual tracks, it's really hard to say. It would depend a lot on what type of music it is and how many simultaneous tracks there are. Guessing from your sample clip, there would be at least a bass track and drum track? So you might even find yourself lowering the level of the guitar track from what it currently is. In other words, I wouldn't worry about it, if at all, until you have at least a rough draft of a part of the song that has the maximum simultaneous tracks. Once you get such a part sounding good to yourself, you could go back and see what the loudness is for each individual track. But that sort of information doesn't really seem useful. A good target to try and hit, though, is somewhere around -14dB RMS total loudness for the master track (that is -14dB for each channel, left and right). Take a song you think sounds good to you, plop it in your DAW (make sure no processing is going on) and see what the value is (I'm not at all familiar with Cubase so I don't know how to do this in that DAW). Do the same thing with lots of songs to get an idea of what seems to be a standard for your chosen type of music. Plus scour the internet for information on mastering. Keep in mind, I'm no sound engineer and I'm learning new things all the time, so please forgive me if I've dispensed any inaccurate information. The tone you made sounds good to me. I like it. It's very clean, clear, and concise. Good stereo separation too. I can't really think of anything I'd do to improve it.

Then you could try getting it replaced from the place you bought it if it's new enough. If that won't work you could try blowing some compressed air at it where you think the dust entered without taking it apart. Then if that doesn't work you could try taking it apart and getting at it that way, but that would void any warranty, if doing so leaves any signs that it was taken apart. My guess is that you could take it apart without leaving any signs it was taken apart. But at least it's not inside your computer monitor (that would really suck).

Thanks for the kind words DarrellM5. You're most assuredly right about the drums. And no intention of stopping anytime soon, just takes me a lot longer than I'd like.

It sounds fine to me. I loaded it reaper and you have an RMS total loudness of about -16.5 dB, which doesn't seem bad because it's only guitar. When you start adding other tracks it will get louder. I've read that most professionally mastered tracks aim for a loudness of around -14 dB.

It looks like the plastic covering is still on there. You know, the stuff that you peel off. Maybe it's underneath that?

Thanks for replying and thanks for the kind words. :) The drums were built in the DAW (reaper) using One Small Clue's Poise. Most of the samples are from G&S Custom Work Drum Kit Sample Library 1.0 (free). It takes a little more work to set up versus some of the other (more expensive) drum programs, but seems to work acceptably. Everything else is on the hd500x with no processing in the DAW at all.

Here is an original song, Radiative Embrace. The sixth of an album I'm working on. Done entirely on an HD500X, and eventually reworked on HELIX. Attached to this post are the presets I've created for this song. Take a listen if you're interested. Comments and feedback extremely welcomed and appreciated. Bandcamp (HELIX version) Soundcloud (HD500X version) Soundcloud (HELIX verson) Radiative Embrace.zip

Glad to be of help. For running mono, when using the 1/4" left output, as far as I know it is phase coherent, so leaving the mixer pan control centered would be your best bet. And you shouldn't need a pan module. Keep in mind that the two paths in the signal ( A and B ) are both stereo signals. I think you're correct in that the XLRs are always stereo so that using only the left output does not sum to mono. In this case you'd have to design the preset to be mono. I found a couple of files on this forum awhile back that deal with stereo preserving and mono summing effects. I'll attach them to the post. I wish I knew who to credit for them. mono_stereo.rtf Stereo Preserving FX (HD500).pdf

On the amp that's switched off, check the channel volume (bypassed) and make sure it's zero.