brue58ski

I have not had good luck with the certified repair places in my area. One, I took my HD500 in for a fix that Line 6 had authorized regarding it. This was a repair every HD500 sold at the time was getting regarding a flaw with the footswitches. Basically a factory recall. When I got it back, it kept on shutting down after a certain amount of time. 10 minutes to a half hour. Repair person refused to take responsibility for it. Wound up sending it to Line 6. Another one "repaired" my JTV89F Variax. His solution to the problem I had was to put a piece of something on the cover to the JTV electronics so that when you put the cover back on it would push the part that was the problem, physically down so that it would stay connected. I'm no expert, maybe it's just me, but I think that repair was below standard to put it kindly. Wound up sending it to Line 6. My policy now is to just send it in to Line 6 as well. It's the only way I can guarantee my repair. That is unfortunate for anyone outside the US. Line 6 itself took care of the issues totally to my satisfaction which is why I still think their customer service is very very good. It's the other guys, not so much.

This is what you'll find in many professional shops. I've worked in broadcast media for 40 years and every place I worked at used this https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-DeoxIT-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1E6TT47I10ZFI&keywords=deoxit&qid=1670244079&sprefix=deoxit%2Caps%2C322&sr=8-2

Did you plug into the front, or into the mains in back. (I have an old JC120. The mains may now be labeled as an FX return.)

Oooo. I did not know that. Good to know.

I don't know if this is possible due to DSP issue but I think you could do what you want to by incorporating two loopers in parallel. Maybe one in each path. Then use an Expression pedal to control the mix, volume, whatever. It would probabaly require a bit of a pedal board dance also.

After the Helix, Fractal, Kemper, etc. and all of the iterations of the latest in modelling, one of my recommendations would definitely be the X3. You can get in cheap and it has all of the old (but good) modelling and is totally the equivalent of two POD XT's side by side in one package.

The only true answer is unknown. I haven't seen anything about it. This does not in any way mean it won't happen. Just that Line 6 tends to be pretty closed mouth about things. I totally understand why but it would be nice to get a little more "inside" info.

The beauty of it is, once you have the 12 string model saved in the bank where you want it. It will behave exactly the way you want it to. Just make sure you're on that bank on the JTV when you use that patch. You do not have to save the 12 strings in the Custom bank. You can save them anywhere. You can even swap the Rickenbachers around so the 12 strings are in slots 1, 3 or 5 on that bank. I think it's called CHIME.

Don't give up!!! A lot of assuming here. The JTV-59's switch only has 3 positions. The others have 5 positions. The JTV-59 switch's default is slots 1, 3 and 5 in positions 1,2 & 3. In order to get to slot 2 or 4, which are in positions 1 & 3 respectively, you need to press the model knob once re: the manual. So in order to switch to the 12 strings from a patch, you NEED to press the model knob first before switching to the 12 string model you want in slots 2 or 4; positions 1 & 3. This is why it always defaults to the 6 strings; that's what you are switching to when you switch from your guitar because the model switch hasn't been pressed first. The 12 string models are in slots 2 & 4 which correspond to switch position 1 or 3, respectively after pressing the model select knob. If you want to do what you want to do, I would save your 12 string models to one of the custom banks in positions 1,3 or5. Then have your model selector on whatever custom bank your 12 string models are on. This is how you can switch to a 12 string model from the POD HD after it has selected one model. I hope this makes sense. You CAN do what you want to do. You just have to create a bank in your JTV59 that will get to the models you want using positions 1, 3 or 5 so you don't have to press the model knob once before switching to the guitar model you want.

Is your preset block configuration the same? If that's true then the quick way would be to make a "template" and use that. However, It sounds like you have, for example, a snapshot that adjusts more than one parameter on more than one block but the rest of the preset has other blocks you don't want. There is no quick way to do that. You could delete all of the blocks that aren't part of your most complicated snapshot and just copy that preset. Then, you would at least start with one snapshot you want.

I believe the send has an instrument level out option is why I said that. I suppose the 1/4" would too. I don't have mine anymore.

Here's the bundle of his Ultimate Realistic JTV models. I have not checked this in awhile so make a backup of your JTV models before you load this. Of course, you would load it in the HD Workbench first anyway. Hope this helps. Ultimate.bun

Just to be clear, you do not want to use the 1/4" output on your guitar while using the VDI cable to power it. I know this to be true with the JTV. Not as sure about the 700 Bass but I believe it was recommended not to do this with this version of Variax as well. You would have to use an FX send to get your Variax signal out of the XT from being powered by the XT.

This was posted recently at the JTV forum on the thread I previously linked. Looks good. I think I'll get one. WARNING! Non-Line6 products will void your warranty! OK, now that's out of the way, I recently purchased a Variax 300 and needed a power supply. I bought one from here https://www.ebay.ca/itm/394012304176?hash=item5bbcf6a330:g:CSIAAOSwtuZiZrJg&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoMguJeGZ8cSNGbIf5KOmOE4pfFik9zonkIuKO7ufWs2NRG5ikt6HG1DtQ3pnD6t%2F%2BtSKKvcn0OskIS%2B7aEV0hkx9z8aCJsHnqAYwKPYS%2FxS6b4KciT7CmPQPTfwS%2FvTWz3ihcZzWjorU81BqdVQ2bNc7wnP1dsk%2BT38Idw4aO7cyZ2PD94KVcX%2F7LuHhWtX8rAoc47VUdIkC9tXJ06MRyro%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR5bb9r2SYQ and it works like a charm. Also, his pedal has a switch to change from 9vc to 7.5 for the newer ones. Totally recommend his pedal!

Each Variax is an iteration of different technologies. The 700 Bass came out with the original Variax (the one with no pickups). If you just want power for them, you'll need to find an XPS-DI which are not made anymore. As you found it will work for both. You'll have to find a used one. Fortunately the bass uses AA batteries so if you invest in some rechargable ones you'll be good. You do need 6 (or 12 if you want to have another bunch to stand by, fully charged) so it's a little pricey initially but they last a long time. There's a thread that addresses the JTV power supply and in it, someone created and internal power supply for it using a DC-DC switching power supply here's a pic Here's the thread it's in from the JTV Variax forum. On warning, if you are using the VDI to power your Variax from a Line 6 modeler, DO NOT also use the 1/4" out at the same time. It can work but there is a great potential for it to brick your Variax. Hope this helps.

Well, it's obvious you're missing my point as well. I did see the first post, am aware of where it was directed and I did recognize an attempt at humor. That wasn't part of my point. We'll just have to agree to disagree. See ya on the flip side.

I was referring to opinions Thing about most religions is that they don't allow for humor, and their adherents have no concept of "context" Despite the context your post was in, it still demonstrated an opinion you have about religions. Or at least could be taken that way. That's all. I was afraid of it blowing up like I've seen others do. In your inital post you said most religions, I took that to mean most and not some. Those two words have different meanings. And the their adherents wording includes everyone who has a particular religions beliefs, not just some of the people. There was no quantification there. Just an overall blanket statement. I never said any beliefs were being challenged at all. What you presented was an opinion about religions in general, not a challenge of any religious beliefs. Context and punctuation do matter but so do the words you use. In fact I would say the words you use are the most important in determining context. Not trying to offend or insult or wag my finger at you. Just tired of everyone insulting everyone else and although at the very least your comment was meant to be in a humorous vein, I just saw how it could be taken differently. And sorry for the over analyzation. I'm stuck here waiting and this was something to do.

Please. This is the one calm safe haven I have. No religious (or political for that matter) opinions. You're just going to wind up insulting someones beliefs. I'm beggin' ya.

This has been covered a bunch in here. If you follow the instructions carefully (I know things are easy to miss) it says in step 3 Perform a factory reset. IMPORTANT! MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A BACKUP FIRST, AS A FACTORY RESET WILL ERASE ALL YOUR WORK! Helix Floor/LT: While holding footswitches 9 & 10 (bottom row, 2 middle switches), turn on Helix Floor/LT Helix Rack: While holding knobs 5 & 6 (2 furthest right knobs below the screen), turn on Helix Rack HX Effects: While holding footswitches 6 & TAP (2 farthest right switches on the bottom row), turn on HX Effects HX Stomp: While holding footswitches 2 & 3, turn on HX Stomp HX Stomp XL: While holding footswitches C & D, turn on HX Stomp This will put Factory 1 and 2 in the set lists. There will also be a Template set list as well. Remember this will delete all of your presets so make sure you did a backup. That's the only way you'll get them back.

Yup. Instead of asking what a 45 degree angle does, just do it and hear what it does. Much easier and quicker. AND do it for different configurations. Different amps will respond differently to the same angle, distance, etc. And as you said, let's not discount those happy accidents. I will admit to you I've had many of those that made me look like a genius. Don't tell anyone.

It's just a possible scenario that I've come across. Not a problem to solve. But yes, for the paths that I wanted and the blocks I wanted to use and finding no other way around it...yes not enough DSP. When I took away blocks, I lost what I wanted to hear. I'm not sure how to be more clear....so I won't try.

The answer in my scenario is no. If I want a different amp for each "sound", lets say a Marsahal, a Fender and a Mic preamp (for the acoustic) plus a different flavor of delay and reverb for each path along with what ever effects (distortion, compressor, chorus, phase, etc.) there is not enough DSP. Again, yes I could drop blocks and play around until I get a compromised sound but my scenario is each path would be I want the FX it has in it. It's just a scenario I've come across. I have no specifics other than I did try and have compromised my "sound" but this scenario is one where the sound is requred and can't be compromised. Again, it's just a scenario describing a possibility that could happen. Not a patch I am currently working on.

One thing that happens with me, having a Variax, is I can have two paths, one set up for a dirty amp and on for a clean amp with certain effects which doesn't leave me enough room for an acoustic path. Of course I can just start dropping blocks until I have enough DSP but the scenario I have requres certain blocks for each path. What we need is a Helix with more DSP. :D Or better yet, a way to put more DSP in the Helix we have!!! Anyone good at micro soldering? wink wink.

One of the problems with this kind of thing, at least for me, is you can describe it forever, but until I hear it, I don't quite get it. It's the same with this. I could describe it forever, but it's just easier if we were in a studio and I moved the mic to show you what it does. Here's something Comedia posted that could help but is definitely a generalzation. This is extremely rudimentary, but it may help. too immediate.... pull the mic back too distant... put the mic closer too bright... move the mic toward the edge too dark... move the mic toward the center some mics have proximity effect.... if they are too dark, pulling them back reduces the low end and vice versa Keep in mind... every 1" you move a mic makes a big difference. Sometimes a little movement is all it takes. Studio engineers will spend hours with mic positions before they touch an EQ.

I was thinking it could be for a show or a play.