brue58ski

When that has happened to me, the patch that you switch to that the Helix freezes on is corrupted. to confirm this is the issue, after you reboot, go to a different patch if the Helix hasn't already, save the patch that may be corrupted, copy an empty patch and paste it in where the "corrupted" patch is. If everything works normally, the patch was the issue. Don't put it back in the Helix.

I would like to get a new tuning selector knob for my JTV-89F but there aren't any out there. On the Line 6 site, it says they are out of stock. My hope is it's because of all of the shipping issues these days. Does anyone know if that is true? If not, am I out of luck, or will there eventually be some coming in somewhere?

Well I believe there are 8 snapshot slots so you could have the IR selection controlled by snapshots and therefore have 8 different IR's available in one patch. Of course if you are doing other things with your snapshots, that will be a limiting factor. One other thought; if you use HX Edit on your computer, just make the IR selection your focus (click on it with your mouse, this is for Windows) you can then quickly scroll through them with your up and down arrows on your computer. I do this with many parameters.

I would. .10's and .11's seem to be the best in my experience. At the very least just to see if you can tell the difference.

Regarding hum, if you are plugged into your computer via USB, try unplugging it and see if it goes away. It did for me.

Of all the things Helix has gotten right, the volume pedal is one they got wrong. I have a floor unit and have the same issue. It's not terrible with the logarithmic option but it's still not smooth, or at least not what I expect. What's weird is I've been a Line 6 boy for awhile and this unit, that kicks all of their other units a**, does this worse than any of the others. Never had a complaint with their previous units. Volume/Expresion pedal was fine.

Yikes, I should have done a search. I will upvote all of them.

Mr Freman has a patch pack that does a synth thing very well. Different footswitches for different chords. I'm assuming you could use the EXP pedal to control things. It's called the Synth Pack https://fremenpresets.com/downloads/helix-synthpads-tonematches/

I think Sascha's suggestion is the best one. Surely there must be a way to turn the screen into what is described. Scribble strips inverted if ON. Turn the main screen into a monochrome switch on off indicator. I have put this on ideascale. Helix screen/display/scribble strip sunlight visiblity fix https://line6.ideascale.com/c/idea/1047765

The Mono block is a fine work around but the Helix should work as advertised which is the left side is a summed mono signal if it's the only one with something plugged into it. If it 's a software glitch, then fix it Line 6. I think of this as a main feature of the Helix.

The KWB distortion is partly based on an MXR Distortion + albeit a broken one. Try that as well.

I have always wanted to create a label that you could print out and put on the guitar and tuning knobs. Have never gotten around to doing it.

From what little information I have been able to glean, the Variax just hasn't caught on the way Line 6 would have liked it to, so it's not all that profitable if at all. For now, I believe, there aren't any resources dedicated to working on upgrading the models on the current Variax or a new Variax of any kind. I had always hoped they would at least add more pickup choices. Despite all that, it is a labor of love for Line 6 so it isn't going away for now. Just not being improved. I still keep my fingers crossed but I don't think anything will happen in the near future.

Try this bundle here from Arislaf (ultimate.bun). He has spent a lot of time evening out volume levels and comparing them to real guitars. A lot of people like it. Remember, it will replace every guitar patch in your Variax so back up your Variax patches even if it's just the factory presets. It'll just make it easier to to go back to any of the models if you like some of them better. Here's a link to the thread in the Vguitar forum that talks about this bundle. https://www.vguitarforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=24065.0 Ultimate.bun

The tremolo on the JTV-69 is fine. It stays in tune (the nut is that "slippery material so the strings don't catch) and not at the "cheap" end of tremolos.

Workbench HD should give you the firmware version of your JTV Variax. If I remember right, you can't update via the Helix, you have to have the USB Variax interface. If you don't have one, this is what you need. https://www.amazon.com/Line-Variax-Workbench-Guitar-Software/dp/B00NHWGJHG/ref=sr_1_7?crid=39ENZUGSG314C&keywords=line+6+jtv+variax&qid=1656072904&sprefix=line+6+jtv+variax%2Caps%2C126&sr=8-7 You also need a Variax battery and in order to engage the battery, you need to have a 1/4" plugged into the Variax. This video is pretty good at running through everything you need to do. I am not sure about any Mac issues there may be. I have a PC.

Others can attest to this. I am only basing it on what I've read. If you're stuck in a position where you can't spend time to correct things, maybe using the Global EQ and boosting the mids would help. That's where most of the guitar's "information" is and maybe by moving the peak frequency you maybe can adjust it so it fits with the other guitar player. It would be quick. Just a thought. No real world experience with this. Can anyone attest to whether this is a viable solution?

Yes. Craig has said he intends to update it after every firmware update. That's one reason he has offered it as a download, so you can get the updated versions for free. It's pretty cool.

Thank you for that. FYI. This is a big guess but the tri chourus is designed to be stereo and only avaliable that way (it does have a mono switch in it).. I think there are actually 3 voices being combined, left center and right. If you were to turn the center depth down to 0 and turn the center boost off, I wonder how close that would get?

Do you have a link to that video? I could not find it.

I do this. You first need to have a separate amp and cab. You take an instrument out of one of your sends to the talk box after the amp but before the cab. You then take the mic you have on the tube and connect that to the mic input. You need to input the mic to the cab so create a parallel path, 1B make the mic the input of that and put a split after the amp but before the cab in path 1A and have the mic's signal return to path 1A there. Adjust levels. I'm not at home so I'm not totally sure that's how I did it. I do know you want the input of the talk box to go after the amp and the mic (the output) to go into the cab. This is just one way.

I'm not sure about how Line 6 does it but choruses were one dry signal going to one channel and one modulated signal going to the other channel, left/right. That is the simple explanation. Since they are slightly different sounds it tends to sound wider, for lack of a better word. I don't think they are all hard panned left and right. I am thinking mostly about the Roland JC-120 amp. If you've never experienced hearing what the internal Chorus on a JC-120 amp does, if you get a chance to hear/play a JC-120 amp, check it out. Just go clean and flip the chorus on and off. You actually hear/feel the sound expand/get wider The '70's chorus unit is based on a Boss CE-1 which I understand to be the JC-120 amp's chorus circuit. If you have anything that is mono after any stereo effects, it essentially combines both L&R. What you lose going mono with a chorus is the "width" of the effect. The only chorus that is stereo only is the Trinity chorus. I think it actually has three signals that are panned left, center and right. So I guess just put the same mono chorus and stereo chorus on the same path and compare them. That would be the simplest way I think. Hope that answers your question.

It just depends on how much you change the order of your external analog effects. If the order stays the same then put them in the 2 loops. Maybe fuzz/compressors/OD/boosts on one and the rest on the other. But if you like swapping them around then I would say adding the extra loops would be the way to go. Just my thoughts.

Two "tricks" which you may already know are to use amp/cab combos instead of separate amps and cabs and using MONO instead of STEREO blocks. Also the Legacy Reverbs (all the Legacy FX for that matter) use less DSP if none of the Helix FX are small enough. Hope this helps but I think you know this stuff anyway.

Big thumbs up for Craig Anderton's book. I like the Helix Help website for a quick reference. https://helixhelp.com/models