brue58ski

The main problem with that is different guitars have different output levels so to model a Start whose output is the same as a Les Paul would be an inaccurate model. So I doubt that will happen. Maybe they could at least have it as an option? i do think the modeled outputs on most of them are a bit low. But I haven't made any comparisons to the real thing.

One thing besides the usual use the low and high cut parameters suggestion, is I've heard to try lowering the Master parameter which is the power tubes level. This apparently applies to many of the high gain amps. I have not personally tried it.

My method for noise gate adjustment is simple. With everything connected but playing nothing, turn the threshold up on the noise gate until the hiss goes away. Adjust the other parameters to taste. This is assuming you are using the gate that is always there in the Helix at the input or adding a noise gate block at the beginning of the chain.

I'm an engineer so I like problem solving if I have the time. What's wrong with me?

So I'm still not so sure I understand you yet. I think English may not be your first language and there may be a translation issue but that's OK. Not a problem. The big thing I don't understand is how you want to listen to this. Did you want to hear both the Helix and your backing track through the computer's speakers or through the Powercab? Another thing you mentioned is that you want to be able to only turn up the backing track from the headphone output. I see no way to do this particular thing. I'll start from scratch and assume that you want to hear the backing track and your guitar/Helix from the Powercab. I am also assuming you have the Powercab and not the Powercab Plus which has the L6 Link feature. There are two ways to do this that I can think of to hear this through your Powercab. The first way is to use the Returns on the Helix. One thing the Helix lacks is a dedicated stereo input for exactly this kind of thing. The way to get around this is to use Returns on the Helix. You have four returns that are all mono. BUT you can place a Return block that is stereo in your patch path. The stereo return blocks use either inputs 1 & 2 or 3 & 4 for it's stereo signals. So you will need to split your computer's headphone output to two mono outputs with a cable like this IF your computer has the headphone output I'm thinking of. https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Inch-Male-Dual-Cable/dp/B00DUL1UT6/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=1%2F8+TRS+to+two+1%2F4+mono+cable&qid=1631889289&s=musical-instruments&sr=1-6 The 1/4" mono cables would go into your 1&2 or 3&4 Return inputs depending on which Stereo Return block you used. So you would put the Stereo Return block in as the last block in your chain. You can then control the Helix/Computer mix several ways. The Stereo return block has two parameters. The first parameter is called RETURN. That's the level of the computer's audio going into the Helix. The second parameter is MIX. That will adjust the blend/level between the Helix's and the Computer's audio signals. The third way will be the easiest way I think and that's just to use the computer's own volume level to adjust that. Setup your Return's RETURN and MIX parameters for one song on your computer and then leave that and just turn the computer's audio up and down as needed. Now, like you said, the Powercab is mono and right now your signal is stereo so I would then put a mono block of some kind in after the Stereo Return block and before the output. Just a mono Gain block right before the output will do the job. The BIG hassle with all of this is you have to put a Stereo Return block into EVERY patch you plan on playing the computer along with your Helix. That's the biggest hassle. The other way involves audio over the Helix's USB connection. This method involves a whole set of different issues one of which is making your Helix the sound card for your computer so before I get into that mess let me know if what I just posted was even close to what you want to do. If you want hear both the Helix and the computer audio through the computer's speaker let me know. Really, the easiest way to do his is to just get a little 4 channel mixer and a couple of powered speakers plugged into the outputs of your mixer. You can even use some cheap computer speakers for this. And you can go stereo. Hope all this helps. Good luck!!

These two cases have been recommended by people on this forum. Theses are what I will choose from if my Helix pack goes bad. I am surprised by your experience. I have a zippered pocket that won't close now but that's all. Otherwise it hasn't failed as much as it feels like it would. This is after about 5 years of use approx. every other weekend. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079ZS9L7L/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_6?smid=A3LLMZ9K72U9P2&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006KEILD8/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_7?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Would need more details about this. Not sure if you are listening how you are monitoring everything. Are you using the Powercab to monitor the guitar and the backing tracks. Or are you just listening to the guitar through the Powercab which would mean you were listening to only the backing tracks through the computer's speakers. Or are you trying to monitor your guitar and computer audio through the speakers you use for your computer? Or is it something else. I guess what I'm asking is what is your specific signal path that you want to accomplish. The Helix is so versatile there are often several ways to accomplish things.

I don't totally picture your exact setup but if you use multi out, you could use the 1/4" outputs for the amp and XLR on mic level for the FOH. You can then set it up so the Master Volume on the knob only controls the 1/4" outputs so you can adjust the 1/4"ouputs there but the XLR's will remain at the same level.

I didn't notice if this has been mentioned. Are you using a USB hub? If you are, stop and plug it directly into your computer.

An old wah hint. Set the mix parameter to around 75% for all of them.

Another, "check to make sure your Helix and HX Edit are up to date." post. That seems most likely right now.

I don't know if this will help but the way I avoided being overwhelmed is to try and pretend I had the keys to the Line 6 music store. I wouldn't just spend 10 minutes on an amp. it would probably be an hour before I looked up and realized how much time I had been playing through it. To start with, the amps and effects are modeled to reflect the way the knobs on the physical devices react so just pick an amp and work with that for awhile. Just like you would if you were in a music store. Try and squeeze as much as you can out of it. Now add an effect. Just one. Like the good old days when you only could afford one amp and one effect. This thinking helped me to stop being so overwhelmed by all of the choices. Even so, I still am every now and then. I had a tendency to just start going through amps/effects without really working with each of them as I would normally. Like I used to do when I didn't have this kind of selection. But, rifling quickly through a bunch amps and effects can be fun too. Like running around in a store and plugging into a different amp or effect every 15 minutes. Fun and certainly don't avoid doing it but spending time with each thing like you just bought it and want to hear everything it does helped me a lot. With a healthy dose of zipping through everything just for fun. Also, if you are trying to find a certain sound you hear from an artist, find out what amps/effects/guitar the artist used and start with that. The older modelling didn't do this very well but this level of modelling does. Breathe by Pink Floyd? Strat, Hiwatt and a univibe. Wow, pretty darn close without tweaking. It doesn't always work so don't get too discouraged if something isn't quite clicking. Good luck and have fun!!

I have a Vetta II and it had a Loudness parameter that, when turned on, would incorporate a Fletcher Munson curve as you turned the volume up. I can't say that I noticed a big difference but i never really investigated how well it worked. Never did a comparison. The main thing is I haven't seen it in any other Line 6 products. I am not familiat with any of the other Line 6 amps so don't know if any of them had this parameter.

My experience has been totally different from what you describe. And your knowledge of what is and isn't a complete waste of time and resources seems to be a bit lacking. Time and resources were wasted on my stolen guitar and I got it back. I also know one other person for whom the police wasted time and resources to find their not expensive enough to waste time with, stolen property and they got it back. Yes, I agree that once something is stolen, there is credence to what you say. I believe most people are aware of that including me. But I know there's NO chance at all of getting it back if you don't report it. Just what the cop told me. And as little chance as there may be of getting your stuff back, more information can only help. So Line 6 is doing something to provide that. There is nothing wrong with that. I need to remember that there are always nay sayers for every idea. I'm just glad you weren't around me when my guitar was stolen. Since I wouldn't want to waste the cops time and resources pursuing a theft. Oh wait, isn't that what they do? And in my case they did. I'll just have to disagree with you and whoever else, and thank Line 6 for doing something that just possibly could help. However little help folks say it would be. It's better than doing nothing. Which is what you seem to be suggesting. I am pretty sure I won't change any ones mind about this and I know, no one will change mine. Sad that I've wasted as much time as I have on this. But, that was my choice wasn't it? What's wrong with me? Sigh. I need a vacation. I'm not going to waste anymore time of mine or yours on this. Thank you Line 6 for implementing this despite how much of a waste others may think it is.

Well they wasted their time for an original Variax 500 which, as I stated, I got back. This was after they were discontiued and were going for about $500 on ebay.

Well, I have had a guitar returned to me. Not sure what the cops in your areas do.

What your are saying may apply if they had to do an investigation with nothing other than it's been stolen. But you give them the stolen device and the perp's name and address that probably did it, i would disagree with that in most situations. There's always exceptions I guess but I think it's a nice thing for Line 6 to do. If it were to happen to me and Line 6 had the info,, I'd follow up with the police in my area. Y'all can do what you want.

I think when I strolled into a police station I would tell them that Line 6 has reported they have it in their possession and that maybe Line 6 has the info of the person that turned it in. After that it would be up to the police to get it and determine when you would get it back. I can't remember if it's when the case has been closed or if it's after they determine they don't need it to try the case. This is based on a limited personal experience with one police department. I don't know if they all work this way. The few cops I know and have known, love getting bad guys and if they had the unit and the customer/criminal's info they would look into it

I believe if Line 6 reports they have a stolen item, it becomes evidence. When it becomes evidence, they are legally bound to give it up to law enforcement.

Let me start with I do not own one. But I own a Helix. Having said that, I think more specifics are needed. I guess it depends on exactly what you want each effect to do and what your whole chain is. All of your effects could be replaced by the HX FX's internal effects. There are several noise gates to replace the Boss (Noise Gate - Line 6 Original, Hard Gate - Line 6 Original, Horizon Gate - Horizon Precision Drive/Gate Circuit) There are two distortions, Hedgehog D9 - Maxon TS9 and an Scream 808 - Ibanez TS808 to possibly replace the Maxon OD808 and there are two Dunlop wah's (Teardrop 310 - Dunlop® Cry Baby® Fasel model 310 and the Fassel - Dunlop® Cry Baby® Super). I put what the HX FX calls the effect in bold and what they actually are afterwards. So you can put those anywhere in your chain and insert the FX send/return in the same way. Were you aware that the FX send and return are another FX block that you can put anywhere in your signal path. BUT, It isn't just there. You have to put it in the path like you would any other effect. It also has two level settings, instrument and line. I don't really have the time to go over all the in's and out's of this. I would STRONGLY recommend downloading the manual. In 4CM, since the FX Send goes into the amp's guitar input, it should be set to instrument level. I don't know if the Return has it's own level options or if the Sends and Returns can only be the same level. That would require reading the manual more than I'm willing to do for you. And as a quick "where to put your effects". I always have my wah as one of the first things so put that after the guitar but before the HX FX, Put the distortion after the Send and before the amp's guitar input. and put the gate after the HX FX output that is going to the amp's FX return. Hope this helps. I don't really have the time to go into as much detail as you may need. Sorry.

In case it wasn't clear, you do have to assign whatever parameter you want to change from one snapshot to another, by assginning it to snapshots. Markdaniels explaind how to do this from the Helix. From HX Edit your right click on the parameters number and select snapshots. If you do this from HX Edit, notice all of the other possible choices in the list that pops up. The flexibility you have in controlling things on the Helix is VERY comprehensive.

I hate people smarter than me. ;D

Just a warning. All of my patches have volume pedals in them and I was switching them to EXP1. Problem is, I would forget to do this so often it became a hassle. And when you do it, I believe the physical pedal itself stays on EXP2 so you have to press the toe pedal switch in to switch to EXP1 and remember to save that. The problem there is when you first set up the volume pedal it is ON so if you have EXP1 controlling the pedal and you're on EXP2, you will need to press the toe pedal in which switches you to EXP1 BUT the pedal is now off because it was in the ON state when the physical pedal was on EXP 2. So you also need to remember to switch the pedal to the OFF state while the physical pedal is on EXP 2 and not forget to save your patch then. Then when you switch it to EXP 1 it will be on. I hope this makes sense. The bottom line is, I would forget to do one of those things and more often than not, spend too much time trouble shooting only to realize i had forgotten a step. I just changed my thinking and stuck with the default. Just think of EXP2 as the vol ped controller and EXP1 as the "special effect" controller. It just made it easier.

I agree. It's a hassle. The same goes for some of the EQ's. I wish I could just click on something and everything would be assigned to Snapshots (or whatever else I wanted) Good Luck.

Just like you set up your Guitar Model to be controlled by snapshots, you must do the same thing for each string. Set up each string to be controlled by snapshots. That's what's missing.