brue58ski

I have not done this but I found this...

I was thinking of Buckehead when I heard this

Well, you should be able to get a good starting point with one of the amps but I would say for metal, you will need a distortion unit. But, again, don't do that until you get a good sound with just an amp first. Just to confirm, you're not just using an amp only block but an amp cab block. If you're not, that's one reason. Also, try messing with the input impedance. That can have an effect. Another thought just occurred to me. Are you plugging your Helix into a mixer? If you are, make sure the inputs of the mixer do not have their phantom power engaged. The Helix does not like plugging into an input with phantom power on and your description is what I think describes the sound when it's on. Turn your phantom power off on the mixer if it's on. That's all I have for now. I'll post more if I can think of anything.

I do not like the JTV acoustics. I think the acoustics in the original firmware version of Variax sound better. Those are the ones without pickups but I think the JTVs were originally shipped with those models a long time ago before they came up with the HD models. I believe you do have the capability to roll back the firmware to the point where the acoustics (along with the rest of the models) are from the original Variax firmware models. No way to get them if you are still on the JTV firmware. Might be worth it if you find you also like the old Variax models.

Of course the obvious answer is just plug the outputs of the LT into your Behringer and bypass everything in your path to record the dry track. The first thing to consider is if you want to record a wet/dry signal at the same time, you would not be able to record stereo using only the Behringer. You'd have to have one input dry and one input wet which the LT can do. But it would require patch planning. One option is you can put a SEND anywhere in your path and have that go to the Behringer so you could put it right after your input and SEND it to one of the Behringer inputs making that your dry signal. The SEND and returns are able to be set to instrument or line level. You could then have the main output go to the other Behringer input. Of course that means having to unplug the mic. Regarding what you want to do, it's actually a little easier to do in the LT. You will have to manually change the interface in Sonar. The LT has 8 outputs over the USB and ouputs 7&8 can be made dry so you can use any of the others for your wet signal, meaning you can record the wet and dry signal at the same time. But, again, it would mean using the LT as an interface in Sonar. And unfortunately I find the Line 6 drivers do tend to make themselves the main interface I think. Bottom line is it has a lot of options and so I'm pretty sure you can accomplish what you want but you will probably have to jump through a hoop or two to get it. If you could select two different interfaces in Sonar you could absolutely do this but I am pretty sure that is not possible. Pages 69-72 of the LT manual have the USB output info if you want to download it. I kind of skimmed through things so I hope this helps answer your question.

What you are asking for is impossible with a unit as deep as the Helix. If you can't get at least something OK out of the Helix, you're swimming in the wrong pond. You could try the impedance parameter. That may help. May I also suggest The Big Book of Helix Tips & Tricks v1.1 by Craig Anderton https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/AndertonHX-e--sweetwater-publishing-the-big-book-of-helix-tips-and-tricks Also there are a lot of patches that you can pay for that may do what you are asking. Just doing some quick math, you want them to create 21 patches that will satisfy every guitar player out there if they use any of the mentioned guitars. And let's not forget, the guitars mentioned can and do come with several different pickup types as well.. So let's just double the amount of patches you want from Line 6 to 42. And are you proposing they leave the Rickenbacher, Gibson hollow body, Gretsch, etc. guitar players on the curb? Not going to happen.

Ditto on being careful with the truss rod. As was mentioned before, 1/4 turn on the truss rod at a time at the most before checking. It didn't seem like it when I first learned how to adjust a truss rod but I quickly learned different. It doesn't take much. And as easy as it is to do, it's the one setup adjustment that could really screw up your guitar.

One of the guitar "mysteries" fro me was always truss rod adjustment. It's actually one of the easiest things to do. It's also one of the first things you need to do when you setup your guitar. String height and intonation can't be done well until the truss rod is adjusted properly. Now that I've learned how to adjust the truss rod, I find I do it a lot more, especially during extreme weather/temp differences. If you don't know how to do it and think it's like rocket science, that's how I thought until I learned how. It's actually really easy. This is what I use. https://www.musicnomadcare.com/Products/Guitar-Setup-Tools/Truss-Rod-Gauge/#prettyPhoto This company is great for getting relatively cheap guitar tools. In this case though, as you can seed from the website, if you have a capo or even a large pick and a set of car gap feeler gauges, you don't need to buy this. If anyone wants instructions on how to do this, I can post them.

Oh no. I'm not at home so I just assumed. Crap. I'll edit my post.

I'm almost positive that the HX Effects has all of the same effects as the Helix. If that's true, I'll bet Craig Anderton's Big Book Of Helix Tips & Tricks would have what you are looking for. https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/AndertonHX-e--sweetwater-publishing-the-big-book-of-helix-tips-and-tricks There's a whole section called DE-MYSTIFYING THE BLOCKS. Over 150 pages that goes through each effect and explains what the parameters do. I don't think you will find anything better.

THIS IS WRONG...I know there are some MesaBoogies in the legacy area. Have you tried any of those?...THIS IS WRONG

When you say "the 2 stereo paths", do you mean both the XLR and 1/4" paths interfering with each other or just the 1/4" path summed and interfering with itself? Either way, are you using both paths? If not, you could create the same patch on both paths and set one output to XLR and the other to 1/4" and adjust the pans and levels on each path the way you wanted. You could even add a delay and delay the problem path just enough to eliminate the slight delay so summing to mono would work better. Hope this makes sense.

Some people can tell the difference and some can't. That's because we're all different and have had different experiences. Eric Johnson says he can tell the difference between different batteries and different guitar cord lengths. I cannot. Well, maybe a REALLY long and a really short guitar cord. People have witnessed him do this so it's probably true. I work in media and I see things that make me cringe that other people not only don't cringe, they aren't even aware of what happened. It's not a character flaw, it's just that I'm immersed in it a lot more. Regarding amps, as an example, I think a Marshall JCM800 and Fender Twin sound different. Especially when it comes to clean tones. You may be able to get them to sound close to each other with the amps controls and some pedals. But they sound different. If you can't hear that, then I don't know what to tell you. As far as guitars go, I would say the differences are more subtle but they are there in my opinion. There are always people that want to "shatter the status quo". Pot stirrers. Like to shake other peoples tree, etc. Just to legitimize their existence I guess. There's always someone that will think what you are doing, saying, thinking is wrong. It has rarely influenced me. I like what I like, think what I think and see what I see. And if you don't, that's OK. I would be curious to see if you took a Squier's electronics out and put them in a "normal" Strat if I could hear the difference. A Squier body is essentially made of a really really nice piece of plywood whereas a "normal" Strat is a solid piece of wood. My guess would be that the Strat would ring out more. But I'm pretty sure not everyone would perceive that. Especially new guitar players. I'll bet Eric could. You could argue that I would hear that because that's what I want. But that wouldn't be true. I want to know the actual truth, not what I think it is or should be. I do agree that people listen with their eyes. I have a Variax and was using the acoustic simulation. It's not even that good in my opinion but there was a person that was looking around on stage, trying to find the acoustic guitar player we have somewhere. We did not.

The first one actually starts with ML which I believe is a Sound Labs IR https://ml-sound-lab.com/pages/ir

Not sure exactly which EQ you are referring to. The ones available as a block, or the Hi/Lo cuts that appear in amps and cabs? There are oinly two EQ's that are not Line 6 creations. One is an MXR 10 band EQ and the other is a sim of the 4 band EQ on MesaBoogies. Everything else is a Line 6 creation. This is one of the best places for that kind of info https://helixhelp.com/models?categoryId=3&subCategoryId=5

You can do the same thing with snapshots. Keep the original on one snapshot and move to another one. It should keep the old settings if you haven't done anything to that snapshot. Go back to the original snapshot to compare. When you go to the new one again it will still maintain the settings you changed until you leave the patch.

hd500xguyposted "Axefx 3 is better. " OK I'll bite even though you joined over 6 years ago and have only posted here 3 times. Based on what I've seen, read and heard, the AxeFX was a little better in a few cases and when you used IR's in the Helix instead of the cabs in Helix they were mostly indistinguishable. I haven't really heard anything since the Helix got all of those new cabs. What I do think is it definitely is not better enough to warrant the price. Get a Helix and save around $1,000. Many people say the main difference is the cabs and with the new Helix cabs and all of the IR's out there, it's sounding fine. Most people find the Helix easier to navigate as well.

What you are trying for is not available anywhere that I can see. At least not according to the current manual. I'm not sure exactly why you want this but one half a$$ed solution might be in Global to make the top row Snapshots or Stomp and the bottom row presets. Do this in GLOBAL SETTINGS/FOOTSWITCHES area and in the PRESET MODE category make it either STOMP/PRESET or SNAP/PRESET. So at least the bottom row would be forced to have what I think you might want. 1/2 way anyway.

I guess you could look at it this way. Since the Helix floor has two paths, you are essentially getting two HX Stomps with a lot more connection and routing options if you go with the floor Helix.

I would much rather see and hear a really good bass player over a really good guitar player. Maybe because I'm lousy at playing bass. I always play it like a guitar. Blech!

My solution to your problem is this. For example, say I have a reverb, delay rich sound on path 1 and distorted dry on path 2. Normally I would set the output level on snapshots so it turns one up and the other down as I switch paths using snapshots. But if I do this, when I go to distorted the output volume on path 1 goes to zero and the delay/reverb cuts off. The solution is to leave path 1's volume up all of the time, and put a gain block right after path 1's input. I set the gain block's volume up in snapshots so it's full when on path 1 is switched, but when I switch to path 2 the gain block after path 1's input is turned down but the output volume for path 1 is still up so the delay/reverb trails still come out but no more of input 1. Hope this helps and makes sense.

If you are connected to your computer with a USB cable, try disconnecting that. That adds hum to mine.

Are you aware of the noise gate at the input of the HX Stomp? See page 22 of the manual. It's always there. Or are you talking about the HX Effects? I do not have one. If you're talking about that, so if you put a noise gate at the beginning, it only stops the audio there at that block? It doen't "mute" everything? if it doesn't, your' only solution is to have two gates. One at the input and one after all the noisy stuff.

Me too. I still have mine.

This is so true. I have had my speakers up to what I think is a good level with the guitar digitally retuned and the sound from the in standard tuning guitar, will still mess with me. Just happened to me a couple of days ago.