brue58ski

Back in the day, and I'm assuming this is still true, meters don't really give a totally accurate display of what the level is because they don't show the actual loudness. The circuits in meters tend to have a band of frequencies that it uses to make the meter move. Or (as I recall) if it tries to do a total average of every frequency, that tends to dillute what that actual loudness is. One way to show this would be to put some white noise through the Helix in an FX return and put an EQ right after it. Monitor it with the meters. Make sure all of the frequencies are at 0dB in the EQ. then turn one of the EQ bands up a bit and sweep through a bunch of frequencies. If I'm right, the meter will fluctuate unevenly through the sweep, showing what frequencies the meter emphasizes. If I'm wrong the meter won't fluctuate from the initial boost of the EQ band as you sweep through the frequencies. It's been awhile since I was taught that so I could be wrong. But based on many of the responses I suspect what I learned is still true. I'm not sure if I'm stating this very well. Meters are good for getting you in the ballpark as far as leveling all of your patches but your ears are the best way. Another factor I thought of is power. Different frequencies require different amounts of power. Lower frequencies need more power to hear at the same level (or is it perceived level). The meter you're reading your Helix directly from doesn't have that issue. It's just showing you the levels of the frequencies before they hit your power amp or speakers. One thing I also learned is there is no such thing as a completely flat power/amp speaker. So depending on the design of your amp/speaker you use, different frequencies will be emphasized/de-emphasized and this will happen after the meter. Then there's the Fletcher/Munson curve and room EQ which will color your sound after the meters, making them another cause for the meters to be inaccurate. Am I forgetting anything? I'm not sure if I'm explaining this very well but take it for what it's worth. Meters can get you kind of close but using your ears in the environment your playing in, at the level you're playing at, is really the only way to get your final levels.

Nope. Would have noticed if it had. The babbling just doesn't take that long. But this was a very clever insult. I'm impressed.

Good Lord!!! Now you're monitoring fun?!?!?!? And you're assigning a gender to this? Females can't respond in technical forums in a like manner? Oh pray tell how do females respond? Oh, you told me. With flowers and stuff. Please take your internal fun meter, gender bias and "grown up" a$$ back to the hall you were monitoring. Answering a question with a question. This would be a classic retort from people who can't come up with an intelligent response? Let me join in too. "Who appointed you the personality and wankmeister of the SUPPORT forum?" Why that's the same question as yours. And totally applies to you as well. Can't wait for the clever question you choose to answer your own question with. And redefining? I didn't know this forum has a definition. It has a description. Not the same as a definition. You're the one that started this little diatribe with your myopic definition of what this should be. You're the one that started telling people that what they were doing was wrong. Telling people how things should be. Spouting all the rules (your word) that aren't written anywhere other than your own mind. DEFINING what this forum is supposed to be. They are merely responding to you. Which results in more of what you claim to be wrong i.e. the "derailment" of this forum. Why that would be doing what you're telling people not to do which would be, let's see, whats the definition? Oh yeah, hypocritical. Which actually makes responding to you fun. OH NO!!! Now you're making the forum fun. But it's not supposed to be fun!! Now what are you going to do? If you answer you will be making this forum more fun which is what it is not supposed to be according to you. What a dilemma. I suspect that you get some fun out of playing forum cop. Boy, that would mean the hypocrisy just keeps piling on. Hey, that was FUN.

Well this is what you need https://shop.line6.com/accessories/guitar-accessories/variax-vdi-usb-interface-kit.html It was included with a new JTV. Another $100 but I think it would be worth it.

I do too. I'm not buying a new one unless my JTV craps out. And even then, I may not. My circa 1975 SG still works. If my JTV lasts as long, it will be my last guitar. Not confident that it will.

This is an old post of mine to show where to clean the piezos. The base of the pocket that the piezo sits in is how the piezo element contacts ground. So you want to clean underneath it. Just put the red straw that all these sprays come with as close to under the piezo as you can get (but be gentle. Watch out for the piezo's wire.) and spray. Keep a paper towel with you to wipe off the residue and then wait about two minutes for the rest of it to dry. Here's a picture. Notice when you take the strings off, the piezo is kind of loose in the pocket it's in. I spray in the two places indicated by the arrow in the picture. The arrow pointing up is where I can get a little under the piezo with the spray to clean it out. This is the best stuff for this https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-DeoxIT-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=deoxit&qid=1563284355&s=gateway&sr=8-4

He didn't just make a point. He claimed to know what people were thinking and attempted to insult people in what appeared to be a self righteous way. It was way more the presentation than the point that was attempted to be made that caused the reaction I think.

What if the 2.9 people finish BEFORE the 2.8 people? Then what will happen? ;D

I'm not interested in what you think you see in the mirror in the morning.

First of all, it's pretty arrogant of you to KNOW what people think. You don't KNOW me or anyone else on this forum. Nor what I or they think, nor why. Second, where are these rules that you reference posted at in the Line 6 website? Let me read them. Or are you speaking of rules some other people have come up with to ensure that all of us ne'er do wells keep in line. Third, when did you become the forum police? Fourth, if this seems like a party to you, I do not envy your life. Fifth, if people do struggle to read, the aforementioned sticky will help the to avoid all of this chit chat. The amount of pages should have indicated to someone as experienced and knowledgeable about forums, as you seem to think you are, that there was more going on here than just the upgrade date.

Just a follow up. I recommend using the stand alone Variax digital interface as opposed to going through any of their modelers to update it. I've always had issues doing that. None using the digital interface.

I didn't interpret it that way. The guy who posted it did. I do agree with you but I just cut and pasted.

I posted this last Friday here....... Hey, back on topic for just a moment. Just saw this. Hi all, Just to let you all know that the wait is almost over. Here's the reply from a L6 support agent to ticket I opened. The issue was about the limitations of the L6link's handling by the Helix. Quote : " I'm sorry to hear you're having this issue. It's likely a firmware incompatibility. The newest update is just around the corner in about two weeks or so. You may want to wait until the update comes out and then try it again. If you continue to have this issue after the update, let us know and we can assist. Otherwise, you'll need to use the Analog work around for now with 1/4" cable or XLR outs. If you have anymore questions, feel free to let me know" So you got it, firmware 2.8 should be out before July 18

Absolutely true. You'll either want play or you won't. Lots of people say they want to play. But the reality probably is, they want to play a song they heard but don't really have the desire to play. I had that desire to play. A lot. I would get so into playing that I would forget to swallow and more than once, as I'm looking at my picking hand, a big splooge of drool would drop down right onto my guitar. Ya know,, the kind that looks like a shiny thread, all the way down. What a geek!! I have a friend I've known for decades and he still talks about how much he wants to play. But he don't. He's even talking about buying another guitar (his third).

My first guitar was my dad's nylon string circa age 11. It was left in a car in the hot sun one day so the nut warped slightly. Put folded matchbook covers in the two top string nut slots to compensate for that. My senior year (6 years later) I finally convinced my dad to get me an electric, a combined Christmas, birthday and graduation present. Got an SG. it happened to be a slightly different SG that year but what did I know. Fretboard goes all the way up to the neck pickup's ring (there's usually a gap) and I think the neck is actually skinnier than the usual SG's if you can believe that. Loved the look and Terry Kath had one in his picture in the CTA album. He was a pretty big influence for me. Also appeared in the only how to solo rock guitar book at the time. It was called Improvising Rock Guitar and was the only book like that at the time that I'm aware of. They shot film of a guitar player so his fingering could be analyzed. And had TAB which was definitely looked down upon at that time by the general Guitar Player magazine population at the time (1970's). The guitar player was Pat Thrall who later played with Pat Travers for awhile. Sorry for that little stroll down memory lane. That was it until the Variax for me. Now about that tuner!!!

I'm pretty sure I did but I'll check later. So I'm assuming you've never experienced this with the proper settings. Just curious. And as I ponder this more, just FYI, the tone knob is all of the way up when I switch to the acoustic snapshot from the electric. Going back to the electric it stays low like I had it set for the acoustic.

One thing I've run across is the lack of tone knob control. I've used an acoustic and then an electric model in several patches where I have the tone knob controlled by snapshots. I've set the tone knob for the acoustic (it simulates the mic being moved up and down the neck) somewhere other than full on. When I've switched to the electric the tone knob remains where it was from the acoustic snapshot. I have not experimented with this (for example does it do the same when both models are electric) but for now I would constantly keep the tone knob full up in your patches. Don't know if it does the same thing when switching to different patches.

Oh I agree, but since it's consistantly the same venue, theoretically, you should only have to set your Global EQ up once.

As I recall (I think DI can confirm this) one of the goals was to start from scratch, take all of the feature requests they've gotten and go from there to create something that had as much of what people were wanting. That was one starting point.

You will find that you will sound different at church than at home. I've never experienced different. If you can, create your patches at home with the Gobal EQ off, and then spend some time at your church playing through their system, turning on your Global EQ on and tweaking that. Then, hopefully, the next time you will just have to turn on the Global at church and turn it off at home. It would be nice if the Global EQ had the ability to save more than one "scene". That's one way of dealing with it. But you can pretty much count on sounding different in each scenario.

The bottom line at the very least is make sure the speaker cab ohm setting is MORE than the amp's ohm setting. That's the critical thing. So now that your cab is in mono you have two ohm choices. If you're Vetta is set to 4 ohms you want to plug into the 4 ohm input. And if you accidentally plug into any other input, since the cab's ohms will be larger you will be safe. That's what I would do. Keep you're Vetta at 4 ohms so even if you accidentally plug into the wrong thing, you'll be OK. If you're Vetta is set to 8 ohms, you now have one input on the cab that could potetentially harm the Vetta. That would be the 4 ohm input. I'm not sure but I believe the 8 ohm speaker cab inputs are disconnected if you go to mono. If you choose to set the Vetta to 16 ohms there is a lot more potential for harm. Bottom line, keep your Vetta ohms at 4 in your situation and plug into the 4 ohm input on each of the cabs. By keeping the Vetta at 4 ohms you're protected from any mistakes. What matching the ohms exactly between the amp and cab does is maximize the amount of power the cab will use. You can use either ONE of the two left outputs or two right outputs to do this BUT, it seems to me there was an issue with running either of the two same outputs together with the other ouputs not in use. Using either only the left or only the right outputs at the same time is bad as I recall. WARNING: I can't remember exactly the situation but I seem to recall that you DO NOT want to use ONLY both the left or right outputs at the same time. It changes the output ohmage I think. I can't remember exactly what has been said and I could even be wrong about this. It has been awhile but I would not do that and research it to confirm what I remember. If you're going stereo into ONE cab set the speaker cab switch to stereo (I have a 1960A cab so this is all confirmed). This makes two of the 1/4" inputs 8 ohms. That means you need to set your Vetta's ohm output to 8 ohms. as well. BUT if you accidentally have 4 ohms selected you'll still be good. If you accidentally have the Vetta on 16 ohms and do this, you run a great risk of burning out your amp. Hope this helps

And just FYI, the switches on the Helix will be able to be assigned any keyboard shortcut presses. So you are limited compared to a normal keyboard, obviously.

One thing that was tried and scrapped was a touch screen. Everybody hated it as I recall. .

Hey, back on topic for just a moment. Just saw this. Hi all, Just to let you all know that the wait is almost over. Here's the reply from a L6 support agent to ticket I opened. The issue was about the limitations of the L6link's handling by the Helix. Quote : " I'm sorry to hear you're having this issue. It's likely a firmware incompatibility. The newest update is just around the corner in about two weeks or so. You may want to wait until the update comes out and then try it again. If you continue to have this issue after the update, let us know and we can assist. Otherwise, you'll need to use the Analog work around for now with 1/4" cable or XLR outs. If you have anymore questions, feel free to let me know" So you got it, firmware 2.8 should be out before July 18 OK. Back to the discussion...So like I was saying, how dare you imply that...……….

I haven't seen this mentioned yet so I hope I'm not repeating what's already been said but one aspect of modelers to wrap your head around is exactly what you're reproducing and listening to. Since you're new to all of this remember you are not actually modeling an amp alone. In other words, what's happening is your are not reproducing what you would hear if you were next to an amp in a room. What's actually being reproduced would be better characterized as you in an audio control booth listening to a mic'd amp in another room. It's a concept that has helped me.