cruisinon2

I heard they hired a whole team of interior designers... seems there's a feng shui crisis in the executive bathrooms. Personally, I think if they had straightened this out earlier, the tuner would work better...😉

One option is to have one path with the input set to Variax, and the other to Variax Mags. Use the mags for your electric tone(s) in standard tuning, then set the patch to trigger the acoustic model of your choice for the Variax path. Then you can toggle between the two paths with either snapshots, or assign each amp block's channel volume to the expression pedal and transition smoothly from one tone to the other. So for example, heel down would be your acoustic tone, and toe down your electric (or vice versa, whatever works). I tend to favor this approach, as the switch is a little less "abrupt". Even with snapshots, while the audio dropout that accompanies changing patches is eliminated, going from an acoustic tone to dirty electric is kinda jarring, even with no "gap". Fading from one to the other is much smoother, and works great live. Try it both ways and see what works for you.

They've had one for quite a while now: https://line6.com/firehawk/firehawk-1500

I can read just fine. Did the conversation stray from Variax a bit? Yes...it happens. Terribly sorry. Oh well. I responded specifically to the statement above which you evidently believe to be Gospel. I do not... and I'm not alone. So we'll just have to agree to disagree. Use an amp, don't use an amp...nobody cares. But to declare that an FRFR set-up is insufficient "on it's own" to get good electric tones is ludicrous, as there are many players out there doing exactly that, with or without a Variax. Moving on...

Bluetooth latency isn't a L6 problem to "solve", because it's not their technology. It's also unlikely to be solved anytime soon by whomever it is that develops Bluetooth protocols, simply because 99.97% of users are blissfully unaware that it even exists...as they're not trying to play guitar with it. For the overwhelming majority of Bluetooth applications, what little latency there is, is of no consequence.

Not until they fix the tuner! Oops... did I say that out loud? 😂

Yeah that's for tweaking to the room you're in...turn it off to dial in your tones.

While high cuts are basically a necessity for headphones and other FRFR applications, this seems odd. I have to use some pretty savage high cuts sometimes, depending on the cab model (between 3K-4K on occasion), but if I were to roll the treble and presence to zero, it would sound like my speakers were under a blanket in the next room...and I use some pretty gainy tones. I'm wondering if something isn't functioning properly...

There's nothing wrong with liking tube amps, and I still own 2 myself... but frankly, this assertion is comical. Live and in the studio, today's modelers from L6, Fractal, and Kemper, and others, have an established track record of fooling numerous "golden eared" musicians, producers, and recording engineers. Many touring pros would be laugh at the notion they aren't getting what "players expect" from their straight to FOH, FRFR platforms. If they didn't like the results, they'd go back to their tubes....but how fortunate they all are, to be shown the error of their ways. I know, I know...obviously I can't hear what you can. Ugh.

I don't even know where to start...so I'm not going to, lol. My left ear is next door...😂

The best part of this thread is that the OP hasn't returned to reap the rewards of all our "wisdom"...save your breath, fellas. 😂

Opinions vary. When using a "real" cabinet, the perceived wisdom is that a cab model in the chain would be redundant... but it all depends on the sound you're after, and how you set up your patches. There are no "rules". In my 500X days, I did use cab sims into a 4x12...couldn't get a sound I liked with any other configuration. Without cab sims, it sounded like a rusty chainsaw no matter what I did. Helix is a different beast though, and I'm running FRFR these days, so the 4x12 stays home. Try it both ways and see what you like. The end result is all that matters.

I love it for clean tones. Never really been a fan of chorus on high gain stuff, but I'll try anything once...

Just to play Devil's advocate, what difference would having an answer to this question make anyway? New process, old process...if you're happy with the results, who cares? Ditto for anything with a "legacy" designation. Stuff gets old. Hell, we're all one retirement party away from becoming a "legacy" ourselves. I use the dimension chorus because I like it...don't care when it's birthday was. If and when I discover something that I like better, I'll use that.

You have to contact customer service for this kind of problem... this is a user forum, you won't hear from anyone "official" in here.

If you can get a "real" acoustic guitar to sound good through an electric guitar amp, then salúd!... you're the first one in history. A typical electric guitar amp has a very narrow frequency response... it's just the way they are. Unfortunately for us all, the harmonics and overtones that make an acoustic guitar sound like what it is, are WAY outside that range. I guarantee if you A/B your acoustic through your amp, and then a flat FRFR speaker, it will be a night and day difference. And fwiw, you absolutely do not need two separate rigs to use a Variax effectively. One FRFR rig is more than capable of producing excellent acoustic AND electric tones.

Well this is still America...sort of... and we can all believe whatever we like. Either way, it's no skin off my a$$. I was merely quoting the guy who works there.

Try buying a new CRT TV...can't be done anymore. Nothing lasts forever, and sooner or later the demand for tubes simply won't exist. Won't happen overnight, but the day is coming. The tone purists are rapidly aging, and the number of kids learning an instrument and really pursuing becoming a musician, even if only as a hobby, has been steadily dwindling for some time.... what with their relentless Tweeting and Facebooking, who has the time? 😤 And those who do have the talent and drive to play, are growing up with modelers. By the time I graduated from high school, my Marshall half stack and assorted pedals totaled at least $1500, quite possibly more...and that was in early 90's dollars (almost $2700 today, I looked it up, lol). Adjusted for inflation, Helix is an astounding bargain. I'd have been delerious with glee to have had access to this kind of tech, at this price, back then. Sooner or later, the bulk of guitarists will never even have been in the same room with a tube amp, and they'll go the way of the dodo. Everything does... (cue Brad Paisley's "Last Time For Everything" 😉)

With sales from the next device they release... DI weighed in on this topic just recently, and spelled out their philosophy quite clearly: So whether you agree or not, as far as L6 is concerned, you bought what was in the box, no more, no less. The guys who bought the LT in the second wave, and now the new HX effects unit are paying for your Helix updates...

I've found that setting the "mod mix" parameter to ~2.5, and the crossover freq. to somewhere between 4-5 KHz seems to *almost* center the stereo image... don't ask me why. 😉 It's not 100%, but it doesn't sound nearly as odd in headphones.

lmao 😂... $10 says this rather innocuous question opens the floodgates anyway.

There's always Krylon...😉 There's nothing you can do about this kind of wear. Even a chrome bridge (with the chromiest chrome there is😂) will eventually start to pit...and I've seen cheap chrome flake off altogether.

Will it work? Yes. Is there a better way? Yes...a pair of good studio monitors, or other FRFR speaker solution. The best modeler in the world will never really succeed in making your Marshall/Fender/whatever tube amp sound like something other than what it is. Now that doesn't mean you wouldn't be able to get sounds that you like from Helix paired with the amp you already have... plenty of guys use this type of set-up. But will you be getting all of what helix can deliver? No...a modeler needs a blank canvas, and that means a neutral, flat-response speaker that won't color the sound. In other words, a Fender amp model played through a Marshall cabinet, is still gonna sound like a Marshall... and vice versa.

Amen. With 8 available snapshots, myriad path routing options, and more ways to get a lead boost than I can shake a stick at...I honestly can't envision a song that I'd need more than one preset for anymore. Hell, if you actually used 8 snapshots in a 3 minute tune, you'd be changing something every 22.5 seconds...I've never heard a song that would require that much tap dancing...and if I do, it ain't going on the set list.😂

It may not have anything to do with the cable...if pulling it one way or the other results in the connection coming and going, then the jack may be the problem. You can eyeball the pins in the cable and see if any of them look out of place, or better yet, find another one to try. If another cable produces the same symptoms, then the problem is the guitar.