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cruisinon2

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Everything posted by cruisinon2

  1. Unfortunately no, there's no way to get the raw piezo output with a Variax.
  2. Lose a bet? 😉. Just kidding. I was a metal goon for many years, too...and while I will always have a soft spot for old school Metallica and the like, now I listen to a lot of country, and tend to favor bluesier, more melodic stuff over the shredding. My younger self would have kicked my a$$...😂 At the beginning of the chain a volume pedal is essentially doing the same thing as the guitar's volume knob... if you want to clean your tone up a bit, this'll free up your right hand... just do it with your foot. At the end of the chain it can be a nice thing to have if you want to do some quick volume swells without changing the tone as you roll on and off. Done right, you can *almost* get an ebow effect happening. Use sparingly...as with those suffering from wah addiction, to many volume swells, and everything you play starts to sound the same, lol.
  3. Yeah, this is as close to a "necessity" as you'll get, especially if you're running through an FRFR speaker(s)...a "real" guitar cabinet will make a lot of those cuts for you. Settings will vary, and I'm not in front of my Helix just now, but its usually the Deluxe comp, or the LA studio.
  4. There's more than one way to skin a cat... One of the nice things about modeling is that there are no "rules", per se. You can use as many, or as few blocks in your signal chain as you like, and arrange them in an order that might not "make sense" if you were using their real-world analog counterparts. The only thing that matters is the end result. If you like what you hear, then you're done. As to your compressor question, you don't "need" one at all, necessarily. I tend to use one in front of the amp, typically on clean tones with single coil pickups for a little extra sustain. Certain other FX can cause unwanted boosts or cuts when toggled on or off, so a compressor at the end of a chain can level everything out a bit, and keep things from jumping out at you... but it really depends on what else you've got in there. It won't necessarily be something you "need". It's all entirely up to you, really. Try stuff out... see what works and what doesn't. If it sounds good, it is good.
  5. You can toggle multiple FX with the same footswitch...it'll say "multiple" on the scribble strip. I've assigned as many as 3 to a single switch. I'm assuming there's a limit to how many you can assign to any one footswitch, but I'm not sure what it is.
  6. Anything is possible, but I seriously doubt this is the cause of your tuning issues anyway. At least take a look at the other stuff I suggested above before you start replacing bridge parts. I have 4 guitars with the same style of floating trem, and they all show wear in that spot to some degree. It doesn't take long to happen, but they all stay in tune just fine. Some new springs and/or a little nut sauce may be all that's required. String trees can help too...I replaced the neck on my 69 some time ago, and I forget if the stock neck had them or not, so that may or may not be a consideration for you as well.
  7. Well you can use the auto engage for the wah, so that's easy... it'll turn on as soon as you move the pedal (heel down position is "off"). Delay feedback and the pitch wham can both be assigned to the expression pedal, but I'd keep them separate (EXP1/EXP2), otherwise you'll be varying the delay feedback all over the place while you're using the pitch wham, unless the delay is off at the time, in which case it doesn't much matter. As for toggling FX on/off, you can assign whatever you want to the expression pedal toe switch.
  8. Or use the low cut in the cab block...either one will accomplish the same thing. +1 on the Plexi bright. I use that one a lot with single coils.
  9. Yes, this what they're for...taming transients... but this is a FAR cry from what the OP is asking a limiter to do. It simply won't work, and he'll have spent a bunch of money on a "solution" that was doomed from the start.
  10. A limiter is used to attenuate transient peaks in a signal, to prevent clipping. It will not help you to level numerous patches and snapshots that differ widely in volume... it simply isn't designed to do that. You'll accomplish nothing but squashing the hell out of your loudest patches, ruining the tone. There are no devices that will magically do this for you. The only tools that will help are on either side of your head.
  11. Good, it's not just me...I noticed the same thing, but had limited time to mess with it yesterday. Not so noticeable on clean tones tones, but with a little dirt, it sounded just plain weird.
  12. This is because the dB curve is logarithmic. Comfy headphone volume vs stage volume through a PA are two wildly different things. Let's say you have a rhythm patch with a 3 dB boost for the lead. Play it at home at 80 and 83 dB, respectively. Then crank that same patch from 95 to 98 dB on stage. 95 to 98 dB is a MUCH bigger jump in perceived loudness than 80 to 83 dB... and might be too much of a boost depending on the circumstances. It gets even goofier with clean vs. dirty tones, as distorted sounds will always SEEM louder than their clean counterparts, regardless of their actual amplitude. This is why relying on your ears is the only thing that works, and why tweaking your tones at the volume at which you intend to use them is critical.
  13. There is only one way to level volumes between patches reliably...by ear, patch by patch. There is no function in Helix that will do this automatically.
  14. I had really been missing the dimension chorus...sounds comparable to me. LOVED the tube drive in the POD HD... and it still sounds good, but after several months of the Minotaur and couple other HX dirt pedals, I'm not quite in love with the tube drive at present... but I suspect I've just gotten used to the others, rather than a "fault" with the tube drive.
  15. "Quality" is 100% subjective. It's kinda like asking someone else if they think you'd like eggplant or not...there's only one way to find out. Honestly, it'll just depend on who you ask. Some will think they're perfectly fine, others will swear up and down that the HX effects are superior, some won't touch them with a 10' pole just because they're "old", so they won't actually know one way or the other.
  16. Well if it's an iMac, I wouldn't expect Microsoft to be of much help...😉
  17. Well there is no repairing it. It's metal on metal, and it gets worn...it's just like arthritis😉. It happens to all bridges of this type eventually. The tuning issue could easily be unrelated anyway. Strat style floating tremolos without a locking nut are notorious for this kind of behavior, and poorly lubricated nut slots are often the culprit. If the string can't move freely in there, you have almost no chance of it returning to pitch after yanking on the bar, even a little. This is why the locking nuts exist in the first place. Worn out trem springs can also be a factor if they're not returning the bridge to it's neutral position reliably. And out of whack intonation is always a consideration with tuning problems... Bottom line is, those are just three things I'd blame for your tuning issues, before the worn knife edges on the bridge.
  18. Yup...I'm perfectly fine with one less step to firmware upgrades. I have no use for factory presets, old or new. And when the day comes that I can't figure out how to use new reverbs without them, it'll be time hang up my playing shoes...
  19. Getting good acoustic sounds is dependent almost entirely on the speakers you're listening through. What are you monitoring with? I'm guessing that the keyboard you're plugging it into may be coloring the sound as well... hard to say without more info.
  20. No...but absent any other info about what settings you're using (particularly the output mode) and how your patches are constructed, it will be difficult to offer anything constructive.
  21. Well to get an answer to this, you're gonna have to see if someone chimes on who happens to own guitars with both versions of the circuit board...might be a long wait. There's also the distinct possibility that it's hard to tell the difference just by eyeballing them. I'd be willing to bet that you'd never be able to tell the difference anyway...the models are all the same, whether it's a JTV, Standard, or Shuriken. If the presence or absence of a particular circuit board made any discernable difference, there'd have been a riot by now. We'd all be wading through "I'm stuck with a $hitty JTV from 2011, and it's not fair" threads.
  22. Theoretical analysis is nice of you're into that...but I have a very simple checklist: 1. Sounds good--->Done. 2. Sounds like crap ---> Not done. Turn some knobs. 😉
  23. In global settings, "MIDI over USB" must be turned on, otherwise Workbench won't see the Variax... took me a while to figure it out, too.
  24. Treat it as if you were in the studio... there, you'd be adding all your FX at the board. Yes, I know if this were a "real" amp and cabinet, the cab is the last thing in the chain...but this is modeling. It's not an amp, and things get weird sometimes. I use plenty of high gain tones. Reverb is always dead last in the signal chain, and I have no problem hearing it. In fact, the default settings for most of them will leave you drowning in reverb. There's hardly one I can use without backing off the mix control.
  25. Lol... indeed. In the midst of all the "Holy $hit, what do I do now?!?!?!?!" nonsense, nobody is mentioning that.😂 Loving the new reverbs, and I have my dimension chorus back! Life is good...
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