cruisinon2

This is all that ever needs to be said on this topic... no matter how many times it repeats itself. The "quick fix" for leveling patches that we'd all love to have ain't coming. Period. And above is the reason why. Particularly when it comes to clean vs. dirty patches, matching the final outputs to some arbitrary dB level is an exercise in utter futility. The crunchy tone will always seem louder than the clean at any given measured volume. The perception is all that matters in the end... and perception is anything but universal. No algorithm is ever going to be able to account for that fact. Individual adjustments will always be necessary. This "problem" will never be solved with anything but one's ears and the save button.

I'm struggling to understand what the problem is... how can you tell if a given effect is switched off? If you can't hear it, then it's off... And as far a snapshots are concerned, when any given one is selected, the rest are disabled... effectively "off", if you prefer that terminology. Doesn't matter how many there are, off is off... so I'm not sure what you think is being "wasted". The whole point of snapshots is to simultaneously toggle the on/off state of various blocks, as well as allowing for the adjusting of multiple individual effects parameters, all with one click of a footswitch. They can simultaneously accomplish just about any combination of changes that your head can conjure up. Imho, you're over-thinking things, and looking for a problem that doesn't really exist.

Well it's nice that it seems to work better than the old version... at least sometimes. But honestly, this degree of inconsistency puzzles me. Our lives are essentially ruled by rechargeable devices at this point, and I've never had anythihg else exhibit such inconsistent and unpredictable battery life... even phones, tablets, and laptops, which will suck up power at varying rates depending on how they're being used, are more predictable than this wireless unit is... and this thing only has ONE function, ffs. Seems very odd...

1) Unfortunately, it doesn't matter what this guy's final product sounds like. Simply mirroring whatever settings he used doesn't guarantee that you'll hear the same result on your end... in fact, it's a virtual certainty that you won't. There are numerous other variables that affect what you will hear with your rig, guitars, monitors, headphones, etc etc etc... the list goes on. 2) If you are unfamiliar with EQ and the terminology surrounding it's use, I suggest checking out Jason Sadites' YouTube channel... he has numerous Helix- specific tutorials, in which he explains the how's and why's of creating certain tones. Being able to effectively use modelers requires that you think like a recording engineer and have a basic understanding of the tools they use to achieve a given result... thinking like a guitar player plugging into an amp won't get you very far. It's a learning curve.

Fear not... nothing will leak out.

Why this quote is being attributed to me, I have no idea...I never said that.

Heat is what ultimately wrecks electronics, and I recall some early complaints about the Stomp getting rather warm to the touch after being on for a while... don't know if that's still a thing or not. But even if it never bursts into flames taking your house with it, I don't see the point of leaving stuff turned on for hours on end when it's not in use. At best you're pi$$ing away perfectly good electricity, and at worst you're accelerating the inevitable demise of the unit for no other reason than you don't feel like flicking a couple of switches to turn stuff on when the mood strikes. Just my 2 cents...

I'll be giving it a while longer... I'm still rather hesitant to throw good money after bad.

Honestly, you really don't need an amp model at all, no matter what it is... the tube mic pre-amp model works quite well.

God help me, I love these discussions that go nowhere and solve nothing....;) Like rack units? Get one. Like floor units? Get one. Perfectly happy with a crappy old Pignose and a pawn shop Tele? Awesome. In the end, anybody's personal preference for one over the other(s) isn't worth two wet farts. We now return you to your regularly scheduled "tastes great/less filling" debate.

Lol...and you're basing that conclusion on what exactly, the fact that you aren't able to get a decent sound? Through FRFR speakers, with the appropriate use of EQ and a little compression, they are quite convincing. However, if you're playing through a traditional guitar amp, then they will forever sound like $hit no matter what you do... wouldn't matter if L6 updated them once a day for then next hundred years. The speakers in guitar cabs and combos have far too narrow a frequency response to reproduce acoustic tones accurately. You need the right tool for the job. Last update of any significance was 6 to 7 years ago... so I'm gonna go ahead and guess "no". See above... don't hold your breath.

Don't cherry pick partial comments and try and spin it into something that nobody actually said. Of course pros use wireless units... but not so much those that are integrated into other devices as a "Look what else it has!" selling point. They tend to use stand-alone units that can be added to any rig in the universe.

Everything is always worth more when you part it out... only difference is it's harder to hide a chop-shop for kidneys than exotic cars... the cars don't scream as much. ;)

Lmao...

This is what gets everybody in trouble when they first ditch their tube amps. No modeler...and I do mean NO modeler... it's ever gonna "feel" like a tube amp. The "amp in the room" tone you're used to is not to be had...because they're not tube amps. End of story. Don't care who's product we're talking about. So if that's gonna be your yardstick, it's very likely that you'll be disappointed no matter what you buy. But, once you make peace with that fact, then you're decision boils down to the form factor, the UI, and how much money you want to spend (cough... $$FRACTAL$$... cough, cough) . Because the truth is, if you know what your doing you can make any of those units sound good.

It's a bit disappointing, right? I don't recall any other products (at least in recent memory) that started out so well, and then shat the bed so completely...

It's a little much for an 11 year old instrument if you ask me, given that a brand new one can be had for $1200. Hell, I paid $999 for a new one in 2013... https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/JTV69SEOW--line-6-jtv-69s-variax-olympic-white-with-ebony-fingerboard

Put 'em up! Put 'em up!...;)

Round and round we go...

What's the round trip latency for boomerang latency threads? ;)

Well there was that Crossroads thing...;)

Well never mind then... There is no definitive answer to this question. If you have designed a workable setup that does what you need it to do, is easy to control, and you like what you hear, then the battle is over and you've won... and if it turns out that whatever you've done isn't a textbook example of the "right" way to do things, who gives a $hit? If it works, it works. Either way, nobody can tell you from afar if you'll prefer one method over another. And no matter what the manual alleges to be the "best" or "correct" way to do things, it may or may not suit your personal needs/ tastes. EVH spent his whole life quite literally butchering guitars and amps until he got the sound he wanted... and I seriously doubt he lost much sleep over whether or not he was "doing it right" or not. Point is, there is exactly one way to find out: Try it and see what happens. If you decide you like it better, then more power to you... but nobody here can predict how that's gonna turn out.

It's also worth considering whether or not you want to be reaching behind two monitors every time you want to turn up or down a bit... because if you've dimed the Helix master volume and refuse to touch it based on this being some theoretically "optimal" setting, that's what your stuck with doing. And personally, I'd bet a large sum of money that you will notice little to no difference no matter what you do. There is no universal "optimal" way to do things. Do whatever works for the way you have things set up, so that you can easily adjust volume when you have to. Just because I do things a certain way that works for me and I like the results, doesn't guarantee that you'll agree... and in the end neither one of us is "right".

If you've got direct monitoring turned on in GarageBand, turn it off...if memory serves, it's on by default when you enable a new track. Otherwise the signal is piggybacked on top of itself and you're hearing it twice... once directly from Helix, plus the output from the DAW, which includes whatever inherent latency your setup has, as the signal goes into GB, and then back out again. The result is sort of a "poor man's chorus" effect, which is why you can get away with it on clean tones. But with any amount of drive it'll sound muffled and $hitty, as you've already discovered. If that doesn't do it, and you're monitoring through the same headphones, then something else is going on in GB that's mucking with the output.

Amen!