cruisinon2

Post this in the PodGo forum... nobody's gonna see it in here.

Well that would require that Line 6 divulge their proprietary modeling process to everybody plus their weird uncle...you'll sooner find a pearl in a pig's ear...

Huh?

As I said, nobody can answer that for you. Lots of things affect tone... physical things like string tension and playing technique, to whatever you've got going on in your Helix, to the acoustics of your listening environment, and especially the volume at which you're listening. The two instruments you're talking about are physically different... the longer scale length of a baritone guitar will have increased string tension compared to a shorter scale instrument with the same gauge strings on it. Will they sound identical to your ears? I have no idea... and neither does anybody else. We're talking about perception here, which is very much an individual experience, and there are no absolutes whatsoever. All of the things above are small pieces of a large puzzle... and you're focusing on just one thing. What you may or may not perceive as "different" is impossible to predict, generally difficult to even describe. The only thing that's a near certainty is that merely dialing in someone else's settings used in some YouTube video will not produce the exact same tone on your end. I've been at this for years, and it simply doesn't happen. It might be a very subtle difference, easily tweaked with a little EQ, or you may find that it sounds nothing like the demo at all and you have to start from scratch. I can't tell you which it'll be...here's exactly one way to find that out. Keep in mind that there are tons of unknowns... how was the video recorded? Direct with a modeler, mic-ed amp? How much post production was done? etc etc etc... the list goes on.

Tijuana? ;)

If you fixate on duplicating somebody else's settings, expecting 1:1 tonal continuity with something you saw in a demo video, I promise you that you will come away disappointed... it just isn't that simple. Beyond the guitar itself, there is a list of variables of Biblical length that will influence what you hear coming out of your speakers. Can't look at somebody else's settings as anything but a starting point... the rest is countless hours of experimentation until you find what works for you. Now that doesn't mean that it's not possible to nail a tone that you've heard... it absolutely can be done. But the odds of just dialing in a bunch of parameters that produced a given result for someone else, is essentially zero... it's an unpleasant lesson that most of us learn the hard way. Demos make it look easy because they're designed to sell guitars, and they give the impression that any given tone can be achieved with a few turns of a knob, or couple of mouse clicks. In practice however, it just doesn't work that way...until you really get to know the instrument and how it works. Nor is it possible to predict how much different your individual instrument might sound compared to the demo you've seen, with any given combination of settings. There's only one way to find that out...

If rechargeable batteries sit too long unused, sooner or later they won't take a charge anymore... particularly if they are subjected to cold temperatures where they're stored. I learned that the hard way with a rather expensive battery for a mobility scooter that I had in the garage over the winter, and it only took a couple of months (3 at most) to ruin it...but I digress. As for the firmware, download Line 6 Updater, connect the base via USB, and it's basically a 1 or 2 mouse-click process. However, if the battery is toast the transmitter won't be recognized, and you'll only be able to update the base. You might want to consider replacing the transmitter with the newer version that was recently released anyway... even if you can resuscitate your existing one, the firmware update will cripple your battery life...the "fix" for the overheating issue was to limit the charging capacity. While it was supposed to cap it at 80%, in practice you'll likely find that it'll cut your battery life in half. Ymmv...

lmao..."If you dare face me"? Ooooooh..... Dude, were not in Tombstone, and this ain't the O.K. Corral... relax. And I'll say just one more thing, and only because I care...there are tons of decaffeinated brands on the market that are just as tasty as the real thing. See if that helps... if not, there's always bourbon.

You can copy and paste patches to your heart's content, anywhere you want.

Don't know, but I'd tend to doubt it... the battery was the problem, not the base.

There isn't one... it will live on the Interwebs forever (or until Line 6 goes out of business).

Fair enough... didn't know it was that sophisticated. I've used a buddy's once or twice, but didn't do a real deep dive into the features. Good to know...

Yup... it's virtually impossible to be awesome at everything. I'd love to be able to play multiple instruments equally well... hell, even passably well, lol... but in the end I'd rather be really good at one thing, than half-a$$ my way through a dozen different pursuits.

The Bass9 is a great tool... but you're still gonna have the same problem as the OP if the goal is to "manufacture" a bass line from whatever guitar part you're playing, and have it happen simultaneously. Even with a separate path just for the pedal, your still feeding it every note coming out of your guitar. There's no way to isolate notes from individual strings and route them to one path or the other. But for adding bass lines to recordings if you don't own a bass, or if you just suck at playing one (like me) ... that pedal is awesome. ;)

No, that's not what I meant...even if you are perfectly in tune before clamping down the lock nut, after you do so, one or more strings is bound to be off just a little. Hence the need for the tuners at the bridge...but compared to the tuning pegs at the headstock, the ones at the bridge have a very limited range in either direction. It's been a long time since I've owned anything with a Floyd because they're a friggin' nightmare... but once the nut is locked, I don't think you can even go a full half-step with the bridge tuners, so in that sense they really are for "fine tuning", as they can only go so far. But no matter what name we give them, I was not talking about intonation at all. That's a whole other issue, and a completely different adjustment.

Yes, I recall just fine. I also recall that part of the discussion was the age of the current Variax product line, and how that likely factors into the lack of ongoing support. You brought up the Standard as the more recent release, as if that somehow distinguishes it from the rest of the current lineup. However, as far as the electronics are concerned, they're the same thing, so a comment on their differences, or rather the lack thereof, is relevant to the conversation. Yeah I get it... and you can ask the same question as many times as you like, but you won't get an answer. L6 doesn't announce release dates for things, I suspect to avoid the inevitable avalanche of whining should they miss the goal. But whatever the reason, they don't publicize specific release dates, period. Then there's the fact that this is a user forum... hardly anyone "official" who actually knows the answer to your question frequents this place, and even those who do aren't gonna divulge anything they're not permitted to... and the rest of us either have no inside knowledge of what's coming or when, or they (various beta testers who hang around in here) are similarly forbidden from divulging anything. In the end, all anyone can do is guess.

I've had issues copying and pasting entire patches into different slots and having it end up corrupted... seems a little odd that it would happen with just one block, but I suppose anything is possible. If that block is something that you're gonna use regularly, save it to "favorites", and then grab it from there instead of copying and pasting each time. See if the same thing happens...

Post the patch itself... weirdness can only be diagnosed if we've got the whole signal chain to examine.

I'm not sure what you mean by "auto-tuning", but physically the 89 is no different than any other guitar with a Floyd Rose bridge, and none of them tune themselves. Loosen the locking nut and tune up as you would anything else. Then tighten the nut and from that point any fine tuning adjustments you need to make are done at the bridge.

Though mostly tongue in cheek, my point was this: There is no "right" or "wrong" with this stuff... and if I've learned nothing else from years of playing with modelers, it's that what works for you, may or may not for me, and that doesn't make either of us deaf, stupid, or crazy. And fixating on some theoretically "correct" or "optimal" combination of settings is the quickest path to utter failure... which is why commercially sold patches that claim to make you sound like Eddie, Metallica, or SRV are a fantasy, and Customtone is a wasteland of sounds you wouldn't use with a gun to your head... but I digress. You're missing the forest for the trees, if you will. Trust your ears... they're the best tool you have. The rest is tedious grunt work until you hit on a formula that allows you to squeeze the sound you've got in your head out of whatever gear you have. And sometimes gear has to go...I've forgotten half of the stuff I've played through over the years. In the end it's all entirely subjective assessments of what something sounds like. You either like it or you don't... and the only reliable way to turn a sound you don't like into one that motivates you to play, is to turn knobs until you find your secret sauce. Just because something seems like it should work, doesn't mean that it will. Personally, I've done the 4CM thing, and I'm not a huge fan either... because no matter what you do, the inherent characteristics of the power amp (or power section of the head, combo, whatever) and the cabinet will color anything you pump into it. Imho, this defeats the purpose of having a modeler in the first place. The whole allure for me is the realistic representation of lots of very different amps... if I want the sound of a Plexi with greenbacks, it wouldn't do me much good to amplify a Plexi model with a real-world Boogie or a Fender Twin... you can't "un-Boogie" a Mesa Mark V. Ymmv...

Sorry, I passed out about half way through that...;) There's nothing wrong with knowledge for it's own sake, but by the time you figure all of that crap out, some orderly will be dumping you in a wheelchair and rolling you into the day room... If it sounds good and nothing catches fire, then all is well... rock on!

As long a you're asking, why not see if you can get a lifetime supply of tuna sandwiches with your purchase? ;) But seriously I'll echo what's already been said... you can do all of that and more, but it's gonna be a reach (and probably more tap dancing than you'll want to do) if you're relying on nothing but the Helix hardware to accomplish it all. I have a buddy who uses an iPad on his mic stand to do just about everything you describe, plus pulling up lyrics and chord charts for each tune... all he does is swipe to the next tune on the setlist, and voilà... preset changes, MIDI commands for everything under the sun.

Yeah that's true, but the Standards are in essence a cheaper JTV69... they just stuffed the same guts stuffed into a Pacifica... there was nothing "new" about the modeling or the edit software. So as far as support/OS compatibility is concerned, they're all in the same boat.

The release date will be the day that somebody yells "Here it is!"... that's just how L6 rolls. They never announce anything ahead of time, with the exception of the occasional vague and open-ended declaration of "soon"...so don't expect anything that even remotely resembles a useful answer, because you won't get one. It's also worth noting that the JTV's are now more than a decade old... it's entirely possible that the answer to your question is "never".

This is the same apples to oranges comparison that's been posed a million times, and the answer is always the same: You can't get there from here...;) Go to a studio with your favorite concrete-melting amp that has all the thunderous "feel" of a dozen stampeding elephants. Mic it up and play from the control room, listening through the studio monitors. Love it or hate it, you won't "feel" anything...because you're not in the room with a 4x12 blaring away @ 110 dB anymore. Plus, if you pop back and forth between the live room and the control room, you'll quickly realize that mic choice and placement can render the raw sound of the amp you love so much unrecognizable. Sometimes you'll like it, sometimes you won't, but different it will be...100% of the time. Any modeler through an FRFR source will produce the same type of recorded tone that a physical mic-ed amp will generate, when heard through those same FRFR monitors...don't care who's modeler it is, or how much it costs. A recorded tone is not a live "in the room" amp tone... the former being the product of filtration through a microphone and a completely different playback system, while the raw amp tone comes from a fundamentally different different type of speaker/enclosure, with nothing between you and the sound but air. A mic (be it real or virtual) plus an FRFR playback system is the great equalizer...a "feel filter", if you will. And nobody's digital wizardry can put that feel back once it's gone, no matter what the brochure says. If you want to bridge the analog/ digital divide, then you need something like the Powercab, or just run 4CM into a traditional guitar amp and you'll have all the "feel" you can stomach.