cruisinon2

That settles it...I'm changing my screen name to A$$lessChaps3.

Subjective descriptions of guitar tones are largely worthless anyway, no matter how fancy the adjectives, or how florid the prose... in much the same way as listening to the wine snob at the vineyard wax poetic about "citrus notes, earthy undertones, and a velvety nose" won't tell me if l'm gonna like it or not. There's only one way to find out, and this scenario is no different. Absent a sound clip and/or more info about what's in your signal chain...specifically what you've got going on for cabs/IR's, any additional EQ, and what you're listening through... it will be virtually impossible to diagnose what the issue is from afar. Plus, the ugly truth that nobody ever wants to hear is that 99.97% of the time the problem ain't the gear...no matter how comforting it might be to lay the blame at it's feet. My gut reaction (if you're new to modeling) is to say that you just don't know what you're doing yet. That's not a dig... nobody does at first. Modelers are not amps, and attempting to dial in sounds as you would if it were your favorite tube amp and cabinet will yield disappointing (if not outright nauseating) results. Check out Jason Sadites' YouTube channel for some excellent Helix- specific tutorials for all the how's and why's of creating tones.

The only ones with "inside info" are the folks on the inside... and they ain't talking. They never do. But don't bet the farm on any wholesale changes to the unit's basic functionality. I seriously doubt that what you're asking for could be accomplished via a firmware update anyway. Besides, after the last "update" that neutered the battery life, these things are barely functional anyway. If it's not working for you, I'd look into something else.

Can't wait to see how this one plays out...;)

That...and the problem exposed above... the mistaken assumption that every amp bearing the same model number, when dialed with the same settings, will sound identical...and therefore the digital models should too. It would be lovely if life were that simple.

We hope you've enjoyed this episode of Subjective Truth...be sure to tune in tomorrow when we'll finally answer a question that has plagued mankind for centuries: "Lima beans: Hero or Villian?". Same dumb time, same dumb channel. Tastes great! Less filling! ;)

I've always suspected that I might like asparagus... I'll get around to trying it one of these days.

As you should be...the only thing you actually want to see smoke coming from is a campfire. Regrettably your Helix is anything but "just fine". You'll be needing a "Plan B" till its fixed...

1. No. 2. No. They are completely different animals...

The only ones who know the answer to that aren't going to tell you. We all find out about new stuff the same way... from the press release. That's how L6 rolls...

There are no magic, one-size-fits-all reverb parameters. Even if you're trying to recreate a sound ultra-specific to a certain tune, achieving it will depend largely on what you're listening through...headphones, studio monitors, etc etc. With the latter, if you're in a particularly "live" room with lots of natural reflections, you'll need far less reverb than if you're listening in a dead, carpeted room with a big fluffy couch, or monitoring with headphones. Just start fiddling with the parameters of whatever reverb you've chosen, and get used to what each setting does. "Knobulate" to taste...

Unfortunately, this is probably true... and I don't think it's an accident that there's nothing "standard" out there that's a drop-in replacement. A lot of guys (myself included) weren't happy with the JTV69 necks, and replaced them with Strat necks instead. That's not exactly a selling point for the brand, and the powers that be love to discourage any and all modifications anyway (warranty, yada,yada, blah, blah). This way, you're pretty much stuck with what they give you.

Harrumph! Feel better? God save me, I do love the "I don't know what I'm doing, so I'll blame the gear" diatribes. Bon voyáge! ;)

EHX Bass9... thank me later. ;)

Keep looking...;) Actually, it wouldn't surprise me... but as a % of total users, it's likely to be a very small minority.

Dogs barking can't fly without umbrella...

Line 6 doesn't do "timelines" for anything... could be anywhere from 5 minutes to never. If I were you, I'd try the work-around suggested above... otherwise it could be a loooooong wait for a train that ain't coming.

Type the name changes in HX Edit instead of doing it on the unit itself one letter at a time... you could rename multiple snapshots in less time than it took you to type that post.

Gap-less switching is gap-less switching, and you'll get that either way. There are only two real considerations, imho: 1) How busy your patches end up being, and whether or not you genuinely need that second path, and 2) If you need/want a unique patch for every song, or if you're content with just a handful of core tones. For the latter, snapshots should provide more than enough versatility for whatever mid-song changes you'll need to make. In other words, whatever twirls your beanie...

I'm sure it was... but so what? That doesn't change anything. Either way, nobody faulted you for anything with regard to the instrument's prior repair history... so repeatedly pointing out that the very same nut was "A-OK" at some previous point in time, is meaningless. If my tire is flat today, the fact that it was sitting pretty at 32 psi last week, last month, or last year won't change the fact that now there's a hole in it somewhere, and it needs a plug. Loose nut = glue. The end. You can't turn this tale into a Viking Saga no matter what you do... it simply isn't that interesting.

Pardon me... since we're apparently going to be pathologically literal today, just for giggles, I'll take another whack at it... though I suspect you already know precisely what I meant. It's a simple problem with exactly one solution. But here goes nothing anyway: "Gluing the nut back in was all that would have been done to address that one specific problem.... because that's all there is to do. A nut is either solidly glued in, or it isn't. There may or may not have been 10 other things done to the instrument that have nothing whatsoever to do with the nut, since it was already there anyway." Is that better?

Official proclamations notwithstanding, the overwhelming majority of typical guitar repair issues on a Variax do not require a trip to an "authorized service center". In this case, ten seconds and a few drops of wood glue would have saved you the time and freight charges of shipping the guitar back and forth....I guarantee that's all they did to it when it got there anyway.

Auto updates are a guaranteed $hit-show... turn them off. Otherwise you can look forward to a lifetime of irritation, and up-ending your work flow whenever Apple decides it's time to render all 3rd party software (and any associated hardware) useless. I don't even know what OS I'm on anymore, but it ain't Big Sur... and I've been blissfully free of compatibility issues for years.

Unless you're the 800lb gorilla in the room, I wouldn't lose any sleep over it. Besides, worrying/wondering about it won't make it any less likely to break... just crank it and play. If it fails, only then would there be a problem... till then, rock on.

Again, measured amplitude and perceived loudness are not the same thing, and the latter changes drastically with different frequency ranges at any given volume... it's just how our brains interpret sound. A crystal clean tone @ 85 dB will always be dwarfed by the saturated lead tone @ 85 dB... so having some meter tell me that they're both the same volume does me no good if the perception is that one is 10x louder than the other. And since I'm ultimately gonna have to judge by what I actually hear in the room anyway, why bother with the middle man? Just my 2 cents...