pianoguyy

I have never had a "sweet acoustic tone" through an amp. I get that through a mic. This doesn't mean that acoustic guitar pickups aren't nice sounding. It just isn't what I think of when I think of when I think of "sweet acoustic tone". But to answer the question; yes, you can use your acoustic guitar with the pod and can send it to an amp the same as you would an electric guitar. Getting specific tone... that is a totally different issue. If you look, there is an entire setlist devoted to acoustic, bass, and vocals. I am sure it can give you some ideas where to start.

This isn't a "since the beginning" problem that was never fixed. It is a new problem that was purposely done. They had to remove some things in order to make room for others. Truth is, naming setlists is such a little thing to me that I don't even remember which methods work and don't work because I quit even trying. Just trying to recall the foggy memory, I believe that if you did a global reset after each setlist import, the names will stay. Which is just stupid, especially considering that manual changing them works.

correct when your live sound and the pre-recorded sound are the same volume - that is where you want the volume. And it doesn't need to be some brilliant sounding patch or the latest hip hop jam. It just needs to be something. Anything. But whatever you pick, you then need to use it all the time. Oh When the Saint Go Matching In by Kidz Bop played against "new tone". In a gadda da vida with 60's wetrock bass whatever your want. no right or wrong. think of it as "testing testing check 1 2". You use it to start the night to get everything worked out. Then never again - until the next night.

Volume, however, is something that I do have a suggestion for. If you are using an amp, I would not suggest starting out with the Master Volume at max. If you were going to a pa, sure, max out if you want. But not for amps. (One of these days I am going to write a good version and then copy it as needed, instead of always needing to manually type it.) Phase one involves knowing that the HD500's cd input is not controlled by MV knob. I have an mp3 player. I use the same device, file, and volume all the time, otherwise the entire process is pointless. I found a comfortable volume setting when using headphones because "if it doesn't hurt my ears, I know it isn't going to hurt my gear". So, I use that same volume number when plugged into the Pod. The song then comes out of the amp. THAT is the volume you want your guitar to be. Phase two gets a little more complicated if you don't already have a patch made. You have the Master Volume knob. You have the mixer volume. You have (modeled) amp volume. You can even toss in volume pedals and any number of options. The combination of those can make any patch really loud or really soft. That is why there is no "right" answer to the MV, but there is a right final result. The goal is - using the same patch every time, match your master volume knob to the volume coming out of the mp3. So, sure, if you want to turn the MV up, it makes it quite easy to remember where the position is - turn it until it doesn't turn any more. At least you won't need to do the mp3 portion for every sound check. But then you need to turn down all of the volumes that are within a patch to make sure you aren't overdriving anything. That is why I said there should already be a patch made. How you make it is up to you. But that one patch and that one mp3 player becomes your baseline. You use that baseline for everything. You use that baseline for volume leveling, be it live, in studio, or for patch creation. Your tone is based on the combination of all things between your fingers and your ears. You must establish the baseline, and then use that baseline or else every thing changes.

For me, personally, I don't use an amp. Nor am I a FT bass player. So take what I have to say with a grain of salt. I have found that it works out much nicer to set the global settings first, and then design patches. For me, I put it in studio/direct mode and never change it. I then design individual patches around the situation - patches for live. patches for studio. patches for amps. patches for bass. etc But I don't fiddle around with anything other than the patches. It becomes to much of a hassle if I try creating patches for studio/direct while going direct and then switching to combo and flipping the switch and making patches without amp models. Nah, I just have one set of global settings and then make the patch work.

"right and wrong" is never a musical answer. The only correct answer is - do what you gotta do to get the tone you need. What you listed may be suggested starting points, but they are in no way a definitive guide to sound. For example: Prior to Jimi Hendrix, feedback was a bad thing. The "rule" was don't have feedback. He took the rule and tossed it out the window. He took that dreaded feedback that everyone was so afraid of, he grabbed the whip and made feedback his lollipop. Where would music be had he eliminated feedback from his tone because "hey man, there's a rule"

You would certainly know had you took the time to search the 10 years worth of posts available for the device. But, you know, we can't expect you to do something. For the record - I am a super nice guy. Just not to lazy lollipopers.

Many of us use the tuner as a mute button. This lets you mute the signal while changing guitars. No more a/b needed. You could also add a "mute" patch to your setlist. No more a/b needed.

Because the unit has a few options that aren't available in your current configuration, maybe you might find a new way to hook up. For example: *Two input jacks, one for each guitar, with the TC in the effects loop. You would then design patches to use which input you needed and could choose to include the effects loops or not, or even switch it on and off within each patch. I only mention this because some acoustics use an XLR, which provides a far superior tone than the 1/4". But if you are using a guitar amp, you can't use the XLR. Now you could. *Or use the acoustic with the 2nd 1/4" and use the mic though the xlr. Become a 3 input user. You would then run a "dual path", one path with the mic and one for the guitar. I am not sure how that would work with the TC, but I am sure you would figure it out. Maybe even add some L6 effects to the mic. *Even your outputs can be managed (limited to left, right, or both). Depending on how you hook up and how you design patches, you could send the acoustic and electric to different output jacks. That would allow you give each one a different channel in the pa, or send one to other effects or an amp or... or... or.... The unit may not have as many routing options as the newer devices that cost 3x the price. But it does allow for flexibility that you currently do not have. In the price range, you can't beat it. IMO, it is even better than many units that cost more.

Last question first - The device will work with an acoustic. Will it work well. That is a question that only the individual user can answer. Because for me, acoustic guitars are plain. They don't get effects, with the exception of some eq and reverb.

Studio monitors, and/or a FRFR PA speaker or monitor wedge. *also keyboard amps. personal pa systems (aka, pa on a stick). some acoustic guitar amps can be flat response but they lack full range.

for educational use: https://www.sweetwater.com/insync/411-frfr-speakers/ https://blog.andertons.co.uk/learn/what-is-an-frfr-speaker-cabinet If you are looking for "bedroom volume", get yourself a set of those $20 computer speakers. You know that they are loud enough to hear but won't disturb anyone. Plus, they won't break the bank (assuming your don't already own them). On the down side, they aren't FRFR (they are full range but lack the flat-response). So, tone creation is not advised. Also, at that volume, tone creation is not advised. And then it boils down to what to do live and in the studio (and at home when you aren't limited in volume). Me, knowing what I know, having access to what I have, I go ampless. I run direct. But, since not everyone is me - I would recommend using the XLR to go direct to the pa. That means that your "personal amplification device" needs to accept the 1/4" jacks.

Truth is, if you are trying to get "true tone", you should also skip your guitar cab because it will also color the tone. Skip the amp. Skip the cab. Get a sterile system that lets you hear the Pod as it was designed.

what exactly is "bedroom" and "live" volume. For 30 years, I used 1 amp with 1 volume. It wasn't a tube amp. It wasn't a 4x12. It was a 65 watt solid state combo with a 1x12. Do what you gotta do to get your tone, and then let the PA and monitors do the rest. And, if you are in a tiny, little, thin-walled apartment and can't play at 3am because of your neighbors - you aren't going to be concerned with tone, so it doesn't really matter if it sounds pretty or not.

if you have a 4x12, you have a power amp, otherwise your cab doesn't work you may be calling it a head, but it is a power amp. it is just a power amp that is "flavoured".

Yeah, it is always easier to have others do it for you than it is doing it yourself.

Gee. I don't know the answer to that question. Let me check my owner's manual(s) for you.

He hasn't been here in 4 years. He probably only responded because he set up a 'notify me' that notified him because someone revived an old topic. Let him be in peace.

the most common reason someone may "lose everything" is because they opened the edit program before they had their device connected. if that is the case, you didn't lose anything unless you clicked save/send. ==> in the edit program, click receive. this will show you what is actually on your device.

2. yes and no and no (again) yes - there is an option to load factory patches no - there is an option to keep your patches no - the factory patches changed over time with the various firmwares. so you can't simply install a random firmware and assume the same patches will be there

1. there is no factory reset on the hd500 but there are things that can be considered a factory reset

make a distorted tone. use the neck pickup. then switch to the bridge pickup. don't forget that the volume knob can play a huge role, even if just a slight turn from 9 to 10. so can the tone knob. and a G that is bent to a B will sound different than simply playing the B.

try accessing it from another page. like... click on: support account services my account

Because of computer connectivity, you don't need to limit yourself to a tabletop device. You could just as easily buy, as example, an HD500 stick it on the floor and run a USB cable across the room. You'd then use the computer software to "control" the device.