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Everything posted by Kilrahi

  1. Apparently some people just hate being hyped. To me it's like watching the next Avengers trailer. The movie is probably nothing like you envision it, but who cares? If it ends up being an awesome movie, the memory of the hype just makes it all the more cool. If the movie sucks then yeah . . . but that's the risk of getting excited about anything, including Christmas. I say it's awesome, and I'm excited to be excited.
  2. It's a good question, and if you're just wading out into the world of modeling and impulse responses it's justifiably confusing. You can make an IR of anything - and it will do what an IR can do, no more, no less. Including an amp. However, generally speaking an IR of an amp - particularly with the Helix - is seen as a step - or steps - backward, not a step forward. The keyword when it comes to an amp is CONTROL. Ask yourself this: How often do you tweak the settings of your cabinet (answer: never)? How often do you tweak the settings on your amp (answer: a lot). The trick is to realizing what each piece of the signal chain DOES to your sound. What is more important for creating that Vox 30 sound? The amp or the cabinet? It may surprise you to realize that in terms of the actual unique sound you have come to love with the Vox 30, it's the CABINET you like, not the amp. The amp has far more to do with the control of the sound (volume, drive, presence, etc.). That's not to say the amp has zero influence, only to say that the cabinet of the Vox is arguably more important to its uniqueness. In fact, swap the real Vox cabinet with your favorite real Marshall amp and you would notice that it starts to sound a lot like the Vox sound you've always loved BUT with the Marshall controls. So you could control the Vox sound in a Marshall way, which is kind of cool when you think about it. However, perfectly capturing those sounds with the perfect microphone in EXACTLY the way you want it is an absolute pain in the butt, and this is where the joy of IRs come in. Once you, or somebody else has done it in a way that does exactly what you need, you can capture the IR of that, slap it on the end of your amp sim, and walla, now you have it ready to go whenever, or wherever, you need it. It's beautiful. Okay, so back to the Helix. Yes, you could make an IR of the Vox amp - and combine it with the IR of a Vox cabinet . . . but think about what you're losing. You're only getting a teeny snapshot in time of the settings of the amp WITHOUT any distortion/compression (because the IR can't capture that among other things), and you have diddly squat in the away of control over it. Do you want to tweak the drive to get more grit? Yeah, can't do that. Do you want to modify the sag or hum response like you can in the Helix amp sim? Good luck with that. Furthermore, what EXACTLY are you gaining when you give up that control? The amp sim already simulates the stuff the IR does extremely well. So you lost the control . . . you didn't gain any unique sound . . . ummm . . . There's a reoccurring discussion in the Helix group over whether or not stock cabs are as good as IRs. So far it seems like the IR group has largely won (by the way, I'm a person who still tends to prefer stock cabs - frankly I find the complete and 100% allegiance IR love a little baffling but I do respect how easy they are once you find them - but then again, once you find the settings on your stock cab you're set too), but there's not contest between the Helix amp sims and an amp IR. There is a reason nobody . . . or almost nobody . . . is doing it, and until there is some technological breakthrough, that's not about to change. Control is better when you are simulating control (amps), and less important when you are simulating outputs (cabs). When all you're simulating is an output that once you've found you never need to change again, a simulation of that output is divine (cab IR). Still, at the end of the day, sound is sound. By all means, download those amp IRs. Maybe there is an amp you really love that isn't in the Helix, and you want to layer an IR over a Helix amp sim because it sounds really good. Hey, If it causes you to rock the world more power to you. Cool sounds are cool sounds, no matter how they're done. If you're down for a cool read, this was one of the best reads I found: https://www.premierguitar.com/articles/The_Working_Guitarist_All_About_Impulse_Responses
  3. Kilrahi

    Line 6 and THR10

    There's a lot to unpack there, but to answer your direct question, the only cables you will NEED to connect your Stomp to your THR is two standard run of the mill guitar cables. One for the guitar into the Stomp, and one for the Stomp into the THR.
  4. Kilrahi

    Line 6 and THR10

    You pretty much covered it. My recommendation would be to set the THR to flat mode and let the Stomp do it all, but if you'd like you could use the Stomp for pre amp effects and the THR for amp and post amp. Another thing I've done with amps with no effects loop, but a aux in, is split the Stomp signal so a separate path of wet time based effects goes into auxiliary in (like the Helix, you can specify one of the two output paths to go out the send without the use of an FX block). Bottom line, the Stomp is very versatile.
  5. Well that's kind of exciting! On one hand I'm grateful for you sharing, and on the other I'm pissed that I just got past Christmas and am already feeling hyped for something. I was hoping for a few more days of a calm life void of the want for anything. Seriously though, thanks for passing it on. I can't wait . . .
  6. I'll try to experiment tonight. I've never tried to publish my stuff because I'm fairly certain it's never going to impress anyone. However, I have saved presets to the amp, but I used the PC to do that, not the app. I typically use the app only as a way to change tones on the fly beyond what's in the presets. I'll keep you updated . . .
  7. Unfortunately the answer to that is usually yes, you need the special cord. You see, it's not just that the cord is a lightning to micro USB adapter - it's also wired in a very specific way that tells your iPad it needs to operate as a USB host device. Now, there's nothing special about the Apple cord - that's why the android cord is $7. It's just that everything Apple is over priced. If you can find a cheaper cord which claims to do the exact same thing as the official Apple one there is a good chance it will work, but the dilemma is finding one.
  8. Just to weigh in here, I have a Stomp, I do this kind of setup all the time, and I have not run into the latency that is referred to by the original poster. For me, it's been nothing but awesome. I'm not doubting their experience, but I have no idea why they're experiencing it.
  9. Kilrahi

    HX Stomp FAQ

    It can be really confusing. A TS cable is a cable that sends one signal. A TRS cable sends two signals. The Stomp can take either a TS cable OR a TRS cable, but if you want to have a dual footswitch or dual pedals you need a TRS cable - because that's two signals, not one. As for the switcher, if it's going to be a dual switch it has to either have two TS jacks (i.e. it goes from dual signal single jack in Stomp to one signal dual jack for the dual switch) or one TRS jack (i.e. dual signal jack to dual signal jack). In the picture I can't see what type of jack the above switcher has, but if it has only one jack then it means you have a TRS connection. To take advantage of that you would need a single TRS cable. A link to one is below. Notice how the tips have two rings instead of just one? That's for the dual signals. https://www.amazon.com/Seismic-Audio-SATRX-3-Black-Patch/dp/B0052NR4MM/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1545716300&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=trs+cable&psc=1
  10. I think we can all agree we'd love more amps. No problems there. More pedals too. I'm with the others on here who would just hope that the amps/pedals chosen tend to be ones that bring out a sound and feel that you really can't get with the current lineup. Pedals/amps that are just slight permutations on existing choices seem less useful. I have no idea where the original Bassman posted above falls on that scale as I've never heard it in person, and was under the impression it was already replicable. If it truly is a wholly unique sound that can't currently be accomplished, bring it on. I'd also love to see more representation from Peavey, Engl, Orange, Blackstar, Laney, etc. because you're right, they are very popular and as has been pointed out, they are underrepresented compared to the number of Fender and Marshall. With that said, if it really isn't that unique and they throw it in . . . cool . . . any amp is bonus. I'm really not that pissy about it. I bought it for what it is, not what it will be, after all.
  11. I would support turning off the artificial limiter, but while I never did very complex stuff anyway, I've found there's a lot of skillful tricks people have come up with that make it even less obvious. For example, I've taken to attaching an expression pedal to the amp's drive for distortion or volume controls instead of a volume pedal saving blocks. That obviously doesn't work in all cases because sometimes you want your favorite distortion pedal, but still, there's a lot of options.
  12. The global settings can be somewhat confusing. I hope to mess with it a bit tonight and I'll see if I can communicate all the settings that need changed.
  13. *Three Hours Later* This was originally a big long post about how nothing worked. Then I watched a youtube video where a person was demonstrating using host capabilities on an Android and they plugged the on the go cable directly into the phone . . . I had plugged it into the amp first, then the cord into the phone. Okay, so this is probably PRETTY DANG STUPID . . . and I may be the only human being on earth that has ever made this mistake, but nevertheless, in case there is someone else out there who this is their first foray into the on the go cable and it just isn't working: Step 1: 1. PLUG THE ON THE GO CABLE DIRECTLY INTO THE ANDROID PHONE, and THEN the regular android cable into that, and that into the amp. If that doesn't work, proceed to trouble shoot from there.
  14. I really like Line 6's Powercab and it usually gets my vote. Generally the Mission Engineering Gemini is the one I hear described as the bee's knees, and it's definitely nice, but it's price tag puts it pretty far out of my range. I've always been impressed with Mission products, and their FRFR stuff is no different. The best budget option I know if is the Headrush. Have you considered going to a local music store to test them out?
  15. I would also like to request this amp. Sure, you can buy it new for under $30, but it really warms my heart and has a sweet as honey tone for what it is. If I'm going to be honest with myself though, I think the Bassman has a better chance of happening. https://www.amazon.com/Danelectro-Honeytone-N-10-Guitar-Black/dp/B0027M30Z6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1545413537&sr=8-1&keywords=honeytone+amp
  16. I haven't had a chance to test mine yet, is everyone still having this problem? If so, has anyone reached out to Line 6 about it? It's hard to believe they'd take the cloud down while they're still selling Firehawks. Especially during the Christmas season, so I'm assuming it was just a temporary error.
  17. Kilrahi


    Yeah .... they're also as big as bricks.
  18. Kilrahi


    I can understand the desire to improve the power supply because, at least with the Stomp - forget the fact that it's bulky, the bigger problem is that the cord isn't even long enough to floss with. That's my one true beef with the Stomp. Was that length of cord a budgetary cut? Would two or even three times that have pushed the price up to the next price point? If so, well . . . okay . . . but that length just plain sucks. I went and bought an extension cord because otherwise people thought I was trying to ambush people with tripwire.
  19. I am not sure what just happened here. To clarify, what exactly was the original poster asking WAY back in October? Somehow this one was missed - but if I understand him right, well, yes you can attach additional pedals to the HX Effects loop. The question gets kind of muddy at the end, and then DEEJSONUMAHLI does his debut post saying . . . something. If that was a request, I don't think anyone can actually give you their FX loop. You should at least say, "please" for the odds to be high.
  20. Good questions. The gold standard for a modeling device is either direct into a venue's PA or a flat response speaker system such as Line 6's own Powercab series (https://line6.com/powercab/). Essentially, those let your modeler become the complete tonal machine with your speaker being where that sound is output exactly as the modeler intended (or if not exactly, with as little coloration as possible). In order of greatness, modeling options are: 1. PA or FRFR (i.e. full range/flat response) 2. Amp with an effects loop. 3. Amp without effects loop. The problems with 2 and 3 are that, while all rules can be broken in some scenarios, GENERALLY you don't want to stack amps upon amps, and you generally don't want time based effects prior to distortion and amp processing. Modeling software, particularly Line 6, does some GREAT amps - but if you have option 2 or 3 you're left out in the cold using them because the existing amp is already there, and you'd be stacking the modeled amp upon that one. So, most people using 2 or 3 would want to leave the modeled amp on the Firehawk turned off. With option 2, by using a four cable method (guitar in to Firehawk through pre amp effects such as compressor and distortion >>>> out of Firehawk out into amp >>> out amp effects loop into Firehawk in >>>> through Firehawk post amp effects like delay and reverb >>> out Firehawk and back in to effects loop of amp >>>> out amp's cab to your ears) your modeler can still take full advantage of pre and post amp effects. With option number three your modeler is largely stuck just doing pre amp effects, such as compressor and distortion, which is a lot more limiting and you're not getting near as much bang for your buck. Sometimes you can rig some pretty cool purely wet stuff (i.e. guitar + effects added) going from your modeler into the amp's auxiliary in for playing along to music, but that can take a ton of fine tuning and is far from perfect. Your mileage and enjoyment on that may vary. Unfortunately, amps with effects loops seem to be drying up as more and more amps go for being modelers of their own to some extent and don't see a need to attach one. This is tragically even the case with Line 6's own Spider series which, as awesome as it is, even the most expensive models do not have an effects loop. It's for this reason that my advice to you would be that if you are even remotely interested in buying the Firehawk, if you choose to buy anything to go along with it steer clear of an amp with or without an effects loop and instead purchase a solid FRFR speaker system you can be happy with (Headrush makes the most affordably and solidly decent one that I'm aware of, though my ears give a slight preference to the Powercab). That way you get all the juice possible from your modeler, and if by chance you fall in love and wish to dive in even deeper with some Helix model in the future, you already have future proofed yourself with the FRFR system and you won't need to buy something else yet again. Edit: On a final note, the other HUGE advantage to an FRFR speaker is it's just stupidly easy. You connect your guitar into the Firehawk, and a cord out from the Firehawk into the FRFR speaker. Done, and with only two cords.
  21. You're correct that if you are using the HX Effects then you would need an amp model active (unless you're doing an acoustic guitar) on the Spider V. Honestly, the HX Effects seems a bit limiting with the Spider V because without an effects loop, you're basically stuck using the HX Effects for only pre amp effects. Not horrible, but rather limiting. Of course, as I think some mentioned, you can do some pretty wonky crazy things by doing a purely wet signal from the HX Effects into the auxiliary in of the Spider V. I've tried some funky crap like that with smaller amps that didn't have an effects loop and it can actually work surprisingly well, but usually you have to spend more time getting the balance to be JUST right since it was intended more for a music player playback where you controlled the volume and balance with the attached player.
  22. Well, and this may be something you already did, but when diagnosing something sometimes it's best to start with the basics to make sure we're on the same page. The Firehawk can only control the Variax if the Variax is connected by a VDI cable through the Firehawk's VDI input. Otherwise it's just like plugging a regular guitar into it, and the Firehawk won't detect anything special. The link to the cable you need is below and the input connection in the back of the Firehawk is below that. If you've already done those two things, we'll have to go from there. https://www.musiciansfriend.com/accessories/line-6-variax-digital-cable
  23. I purchased a 20 watt Red Edition Spider V for my son, and it arrived yesterday and I dinked around with it for a while. The thing was friggin' $130 bucks and yet I would have killed for the possibilities it has when I was his age. When you attach the app to it it's practically a modeling board, or a baby Firehawk 1500. I immediately did what you did above. Turned everything as flat as possible and hooked my HX Stomp up to it. I thought it sounded bloody brilliant, and for the price . . . geez it makes me want to buy one for myself (I have a Firehawk 1500, and it's awesome, but it's also a beast to move around so if I can keep it for special occasions and just jam out on an amp like this so much the better). At the very least I'm going to borrow his whenever he's not using it. I'm still in shock the Spider series seems to always get ragged on in message board or Facebook groups because so far I think it's amazing.
  24. Are you connecting your Variax to the Firehawk with a VDI cable or a traditional 1/4' TS cable?
  25. It looks like a pretty well thought out setup. I'm curious, what's the thinking with keeping the poly tuner over using the Stomp's inbuilt tuner? Do you find polyphonic tuning is a lot easier/faster to use live (I've never tried it)?
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