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Kilrahi

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Everything posted by Kilrahi

  1. Perhaps I'm just a neophyte or a or a cranially challenged hick, but in my opinion a lot of the "better" argument in sounds is just human snobbery. Case in point, I vastly prefer Coke to Sam's Club Cola (and the only use I have for a Pepsi is to pee in the bottle) - but if it was Sam's Club Cola that had been invented in the dirt of Pemberton's backyard in the 19th century I'd probably prefer that. When it comes to cola, I'm kind of a snobbish prick. At least I know it though. I hope the Coke Gods don't strike me dead for finally admitting my faith is built on bulllollipop. So it is with the sounds. Now, if you're talking about how close and accurate is the Helix to a Vox 30 compared to the old HD500x . . . well, that is a measurable scientific distance (though it brings up arguments of how much we can perceive) and I do tend to BELIEVE that the HX versions are pretty much perfect and far better than before. Maybe, though, it's a case of hearing what I expect to hear. Distortion is kind of a similar deal, if you're trying to mimic a classic distortion you can clearly have a model closer than another. However, when it comes to other things like plate reverb, I tend to believe a lot of those were pretty accurate from the very beginning. I mean, what about delays? A delay is a frigging repeat of your original signal a certain way. If the legacy effects did a delay THEN THEY DID A DELAY. Maybe you want a different kind of delay, different timing, more of them, etc. . . . but especially compared to the delays of the 70s there isn't that much to them. I guess with digital delays you can argue that if you REALLY go back far the quality of the repeated signal to the original was reduced, but we're talking about a signal that is typically masked in the background anyway, and to top it off, the much ballyhooed analog delays were never of great quality anyway. Tube and tape echoes were even worse and people gush all over them. So I guess my rant is that the legacy effects are pretty awesome. Supposedly they were beefed up in some digital way for the Helix line which makes them even better. When I have a similar HX version, I use it unless I am searching for a lower DSP option, but I have no problem using legacy effects if they're the only choice, and I'm glad they're there.
  2. I'm kind of like you on that one. I'm not one of those guys who has any interest in being a techie on a guitar (swapping pickups, setups, swapping out guitar necks). I can see the advantage in doing so, and MAYBE one day I'll take my interest in guitars to the next level, but for now I do my own string changes (that's nothing to brag about but there's a huge portion of the population that still pays for something that simple) and I'll do some very basic intonation and fret buzz tweaks, but if I can tell it's more than that, I'm sending it to a pro. In my area there is a shop that charges $35 for a decent setup, and another that charges $75. I've tried them both. There's nothing embarrassing or necessarily half assed about the $35, but these days I always go with the $75. Call it perception or seeing what you want to see, but the guy just comes across as a master of instrument care and whenever he's done with my guitar it feels like a dream. He also always takes the time to clean the instrument so it practically looks brand new. It's the little things sometimes.
  3. Line 6 doesn't add a "clear/delete" midi function to their devices. The thinking is there is no point in doing it because: 1. No loop is permanently stored in the device - so when you turn it off all loops get deleted. 2. In a performance setting, there is no point in deleting the loop. If you need a new loop, rather than delete, simply send the midi command to record a new loop, and the old loop is deleted. You would then use the new loop.
  4. Good guideline. When Line 6 was having their big Firehawk 1500 sale in July (usually $999 but dropped down to $799) Musician's Friend had an open box version for $690 and they indicated it was in perfect condition. So I took a chance and bought it. I also added the 3 year warranty that protects it from everything, including accidental damage (since I knew I'd be hauling it all over the place), bumping the price right back up to about $820. I looked over every square inch of it and couldn't find any sign anyone had so much as breathed on it. From my perspective, I basically got a 3 year bumper to bumper warranty for a device that weighs as much as a small moon for $20. Never regretted that one.
  5. I don't know that it's common. I don't know of a single electronic device that hasn't borked on me at one point or another. So far the only HX Stomp issue I've had is one time the screen quit working. The signal was still being processed as it was supposed to, but the screen wouldn't tell me anything about what was going on. I had to turn it on and off again to get it working again.
  6. Kilrahi

    HX Stomp FAQ

    There are three steps. The first is the obvious one - connect your pedal to the HX Stomp with the appropriate cable. The second is to clarify that you want a dual footswitch connected. To do that go to the following: Global Settings > Preferences 1. Set Exp/FS TIP to FS4 instead of the default of "EXP 1." 2. Set Exp/FS RING to FS5 instead of the default of "EXP2." The next step is to specify what you want that footswitch to do, and it is found under "Global Settings > Footswitches." 1. Specify what you want FS4 to do (i.e. Stomp 4, bank up, down, preset up, down, snapshot up, down, etc.) 2. Specify what you want FS5 to do (same as step 1 above).
  7. Would it be possible for you to post a picture of your signal chain?
  8. I don't know how extensive your experience is in the guitar gear world. Based on the fact that you're shelling out $1500 for a monster of a effects/amp processor I would assume your experience is pretty extensive, and so if that's true feel free to ignore my diatribe below. Nevertheless, the guitar universe and the Playstation 4 universe are entirely different things. Especially when it comes to perceptions of new/used, and how well people take care of them/what matters to them. I'm with you on a video game console. I would never get one used unless it was SERIOUSLY marked down or there was no other option because the fact of the matter is a lot of people treat their consoles like piles of garbage. In the guitar world though, my feel is most (definitely not all) people messing around in the guitars and gear that retails above $200 take pretty good care of things and care far more about knowing things are in working order than whether a box is sealed. I suspect that's why so many groups from Sweetwater to Guitar Center actually open things up and inspect them to give them their own personal stamp of approval before they send it out. For me, knowing it has a two year warranty and as long as it looked perfect, I'd be totally okay with it. Especially if I knew up front they'd taken the time to upgrade the firmware, I think I'd just appreciate it. Yeah it's easy to do, but it's far more fun to be able to play with your "toy" as soon as it arrives.
  9. The Helix has two excellent Leslie effects, the Leslie 122 and the Leslie 145, so yes, it can.
  10. I definitely hope that they see it as a line worth advancing. The biggest obstacle I see is that . . . well . . . they're kind of alone in this market. Assuming they are profitable (which I think they are though I don't get the impression they're gangbusters) they have ZERO competition so there isn't really a huge need to keep pushing the edges of what can be done. That's sadly the downside of capitalism - lack of competition makes things stay largely the same. I mean, the closest thing I can think to compare to are what, the Roland GR-55? Didn't that come out around the same time as the last Variax edition? Did they ever update that? The Variax steam rolls that dinosaur in my opinion. The only other thing I see now are these dual electric/acoustic guitars which do a tiny portion of what the Variax did (though arguably the coolest part since I think the ability to have both an electric and acoustic in one instrument is a huge seller for why a lot of us jumped on board). Until they see their market share as threatened, and assuming they're sales have always been pretty level, I don't know how much advancement we'll see.
  11. Kilrahi

    Solo

    No, you can do that with the Spider V. There are MANY ways that you could accomplish this. One of the most obvious would be to add a boost pedal to the chain and activate it when you are doing your solo.
  12. Hey, I'm on your side here. I was being gently sarcastic with that reply but maybe it wasn't obvious. To me, the Stomp should be allowed to grow beyond the six blocks. Love your stuff online by the way. In fact, I tried to buy your presets for the HX Stomp for acoustic guitars, but the link didn't seem to be up.
  13. Need is such a funny word. Nobody NEEDS more than six blocks - the question is are there times it's nice to have them? The bigger question though is a bit different. Imagine you have always used wired headphones and decide you now want to try Bluetooth - but your phone doesn't allow Bluetooth. You figure no biggie you didn't buy it for that and so you start researching purchasing a new $800 phone that does - only to find out that your phone has a built in Bluetooth transmitter that would work perfectly well for your new idea but for some reason the company tweaked the software so that it stays off. Or, imagine you need a car with anti-lock brakes but the car company deactivated them. Or cruise control! The frustrating part about the Stomp has nothing to do with its natural parameters EXCEPT for the fact that you realize it actually could be a lot more and you're stuck feeling like there's no reason it can't be. I love my Stomp. Use it every night. When I look at it though, it's like having a kid who keeps getting a B in art when you know he's fully capable of getting an A if he'd just put in a little bit of extra work.
  14. I would probably open a support ticket. It's baffling to me that the IOS one wouldn't work, and I'm wondering if Line 6 has some ideas.
  15. Makes sense and puts newbies like me at ease who haven't got to try midi yet but want to.
  16. Considering that the one switch looper originally deletes when you hold the footswitch down instead of tap it while playback is stopped, I assume you'd have to stop the looper and then send the looper play midi command (61; 64-127) with some sort of latch function on until it deletes. Which in retrospect kind of sucks because then you're back to the same problem of a second of playback. I am surprised Line 6 didn't use a midi command for delete. As it is, you're stuck programming some sort of additional stomp switch to kill the volume right before you delete it. Can anyone else confirm this is a limitation of how it works?
  17. I agree it doesn't seem to explain your problem, yet, I really did have similar problems with the official one until I hit every single parameter. I'm sorry it didn't help, though I did give you the WRONG instructions because I'm a moron. You're using a dual pedal and I gave you the single. The dual instructions are below. I do have a few other ideas which you've probably already tried, but still: 1. Did you try to have the HX Stomp learn the pedal? Select the wah block and hold down the far left knob until the mean changes on the screen then hit "page right." It has a third option called "learn." Push that and it asks you to move the pedal up and down. From this menu it's supposed to learn how your pedal works and adapt to it. 2. You can do the learn mode but do manual learn instead. That's where when you hit page right it has the minimum and maximum values. You could try tweaking variations of those and see how those behaviors impact the pedal. Perhaps some max and minimum value with the weird way it's understanding your pedal would actually work (so for example, if you set the max value at 50% maybe that would be the 100% point on your pedal - probably not but it's worth trying). If that doesn't work I'd probably open up a Line 6 support ticket. They may be able to at least confirm if it's not possible. You have no doubt already tried all of the above. I'll keep thinking about it. Below are the correct dual pedal instructions: When connecting two traditional expression pedals with a Y cable, there are a few things to be aware of: • 1. Set "Global Settings > Preferences" > EXP/FS Ring to "EXP 2" • 2. From the "Bypass Assign" menu, assign the Switch parameter of Volume Pedal and Pan blocks to "None" • 3. From the "Bypass Assign" menu, assign the Switch parameter of Wah and Pitch Wham blocks to either "EXP 1" (where HX Stomp engages the block when moving EXP 1 away from its heel down position) or a stomp footswitch
  18. Unfortunately, no. The Spider doesn't have any sort of workable interface between it and the Pod. Now, you CAN do stuff like that . . . kind of . . . but it would require more careful planning and control. You would have to create the signal chains you want between the two of them, and save a preset for your Pod, AND a preset for the Spider, and then essentially select two presets instead of one in order to have them work together. So it's not as simple as a one button push, but it is doable. As someone who shares the DSP between his Firehawk 1500 and HX Stomp, it can be worth it. However, I do have the FBV controller for the Firehawk 1500 (that also works for some of the Spiders) that makes it easier to switch presets. Having an open app all the time isn't nearly as smooth.
  19. Yeah, the Spider V has the same type of setup so I think you figured it out. That's a good point about the volume output potentially blowing your ears away.
  20. Are you saying it's dangerously loud for a second but if you tap the volume nob it resets to a different loudness? I want to make sure I understand the problem, because it's probably true that each preset channel has its own volume standard volume. So if the volume knob was at 9 o'clock on clean and you switched to insane at 9 o'clock it would likely sound louder on insane than clean. If you're saying it's only TEMPORARILY louder and a slight jiggle of the volume knob resets it . . . well that's a bit weirder.
  21. The Helix gives you the power to recreate a studio scenario, but it still can take a long time to dial the whole mess in. Studio recordings in particular often have massive amount of production involved for the lead, the rhythm, the second rhythm, the second lead . . . and on and on. Everyone above is correct that your answer is snapshots. Hell, with the Helix I think you get 8 snapshots vs. the Stomp's 3 so you have plenty of room to dial in every single nuance your looking for. The work to get there will take a while, but once it's finished you'll be able to instantly move from part to part.
  22. To me what you're describing sounds normal. It's hard to know what exactly you're hearing "buzz" wise, but if the original amp has it, the model does too. One thing I like to make sure people know about, most of the amp models have some interesting parameters meant to simulate these sounds. For example, the "hum" parameter recreates the actual hum of an amp. I'd make sure you've toyed around with the hum, bias, bias x, sag, drive, and other settings on each amp to see how they react to see if it's related to the buzz you're hearing. Also, keep in mind that the Helix has a built in noise gate which you can activate to reduce a bunch of additional fuzziness - useful in the same way a traditional noise gate is useful.
  23. I definitely agree with you that the HX Stomp advertises like it should work with pretty much any expression pedal, so you'd hope there's a setting that makes it work here. The main thing I've found as I've experimented between my official Helix Mission pedal and a combination of dual foot switches is that the settings have to be EXACTLY right for it to work. Have you made sure you did all of the following? 1. From global settings under "Controller Assign" assign the position parameter of volume pedal and pan blocks to "Exp. 1." 2. From the global settings "Bypass Assign" menu assign the switch parameter of volume pedal and pan blocks to "None." 3. From the global settings "Bypass Assign" menu, assign the switch parameter of wah and pitch wham blocks to "Exp. 1." I would make sure you've done all of those, and if that still doesn't work I'd reach out to Line 6 support to see if they're aware of any tricks with that pedal. I know I couldn't get the official pedal to work FOREVER after I'd attached a dual footswitch earlier (and it was doing very similar parameter mess-ups like you describe), and I was pulling my hair out because surely the official pedal was fine, but it turns out I had just one step off and so the whole thing was borked. Make sure you've done all three steps above before you give up.
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