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Kilrahi

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Everything posted by Kilrahi

  1. This is kind of rough for me too because I feel like if I could see your presets I could figure out the problem, but I don't have an HX Effects so I can't open them - and to be honest I'm having a tiny bit of a problem following your details. One thing that confuses me is it sounds like you're trying to do a simple 4 cable method but you got pans and balance shifts going all over the place. Maybe if you explained what the purpose of the pans and balance shifts were? To me the best way to 4 cable is the way the factory presets are constructed in the HX Effects, which goes like this (and doesn't use any path A or B): Wiring: 1. Guitar in left/mono in. 2. 1/4 guitar cable from FX send to guitar in on amp. 3. 1/4 guitar cable from amp's FX Send to FX Return on HX Effects. 4. 1/4 guitar cable from L/Mono output on HX Effects to FX Return on amp. Signal path template (no dual paths) 1. effects blocks of choice before pre amp 2. FX send and return block placed PRIOR to the effects you want after the pre amp. 3. Post pre amp effects. That's it. Acoustic guitar travels the entire route, and your effects work perfectly both before and after. I'm not saying there's never a time to get more creative, but without knowing the reason the simpler versions are usually the best. Is there something about the standard factory preset templates that you didn't like for your setup? Because otherwise my suggestion would be that once you ensure the cables are set up correctly to simple copy and past one of those into a new area and tweak it to your liking.
  2. Usually when I have a hiss I just turn on the Firehawk's noise gate and it eliminates it really well. Have you tried that approach?
  3. So . . . it didn't work at rehearsal, but you came home . . . changed nothing about the internal settings . . . and then it did work?
  4. Well kind of. The tuner is not a block so that kind of mucks it up. For blocks, the easiest way is to assign two blocks to one footswitch, but have one block engaged and the other disengaged. Then when you stomp it switches between them. Another way, my favorite way, is to set up snapshots.
  5. Well, they modelled the vintage one. I think people would riot if they modelled a cloned pedal. Not that personally I see any problem with it, but cork sniffers would claim all sorts of garbage. It's not the easiest thing to troubleshoot tone complaints over the internet. In your case, you clearly have tons of experience and you have been here before asking for how to fix things you feel sound off and it still didn't resolve how you felt. Have you thought of purchasing actual presets that likely use the pedals you feel don't sound right and then trying to tweak them for your unique scenario? For example, I love Glenn's stuff and he has some Jimi Hendrix stuff you could build off of. He no doubt uses an FRFR but in my opinion it's not very difficult to pull out the amp sim and tune it to your real amp. Even if it's not Jimi you're trying to imitate, if you can get it good in one place you can get it good in another. His video is below. Great stuff.
  6. I hope you get it figured out. I can't imagine buying something that expensive twice. The Helix is amazing, but at that kind of price sometimes when you know something isn't your cup of tea you're better off bailing. If you love original pedals and manage to make them sing, well, that's not a disgraceful route to go. Excellent advice all throughout your reply, and yeah, that line about the Octavia just left me confused. It translated to me as, "My modeled super fizzy pedal sounded like the real super fizzy pedal."
  7. Just to clarify, here is your quote: "A pair of pedals (distortion) sound ok but a bunch sounded prettt questionable." Distortion is literally destroying your sound wave. I mean, we all adore good distortion, but to be clear, you say you are adding a "bunch" and all we know a bunch means is more than two. The more distortion pedals you throw in a chain, modeled OR real, the more insanely hard it will be to keep it from going to lollipop.
  8. https://line6.com/software/index.html You need to download the latest version of Line 6 Monkey. Once downloaded, you connect your Variax to it (make sure you have a guitar cable plugged into the standard 1/4 in jack to activate the Variax, and then in the Ethernet port the official Variax connection which then plugs into your PC) and run Line 6 Monkey. It should then recognize you need some updates and begin the process of updating your Variax. Once completed I'd quickly switch to Workbench and see what it shows the tunings to be. If they look fine then test that puppy out. Fingers crossed for you.
  9. That's just one of many things I love about the Helix. There are many ways to get to the same solution, and they all have their own advantages and disadvantages. This one uses an extra block, but especially when you're just starting out it's easier to visualize.
  10. I have to say I agree, though I tend to always feel this way about presets. To me they are just demos of what IS possible. You examine them to kind of figure out what they did and then you create your own presets and use elements of those ideas when needed. Unfortunately I think that most people who buy the amp expect the preset to be one and done, and so call the amp crap over it, which is kind of sad because I think this amp is very powerful and versatile compared to the competition. With that said, I felt like the acoustic presets were pretty solid.
  11. Unfortunately, no. Tap temps are based on the individual block you choose and reside solely in the preset. What I would suggest doing is create your initial preset and save it as is with the tap temp you like, and then save that same preset in a new slot. This should copy the tap tempo you had into the new preset. Then you would change the preset to how you like it and update the save. Once you're ready for your third preset do the same thing as before, and so on.
  12. I took the survey. To summarize my thoughts, I am very impressed with the Powercab, and I do like the amp in a room feel that it recreates. In my case though, I had already bought a solution for my needs that works really well, and so as impressed as I was with the cab emulation it wasn't enough to push me to the $500 or $700 range just to experience that. One thing I shared in the survey is that I felt many people who have moved to a FRFR have kind of made peace with the idea of losing that cab feeling and that it was more of a selling point to those thinking about crossing over. I did say that when people ask me what FRFR to consider, that's the first one I point them to, because if I'd known it was coming out I think I would have waited and gone that route. Finally, I pointed out that smaller more affordable things like what Headrush is doing is appealing to me since I already sunk in a decent chunk of change for my main unit, but there is a use for smaller FRFR options, and $200 or $300 is pricey but not break the bank range.
  13. I hate to break it to you, but you can give up on this one. THEY HAVE NEVER GIVEN THE FIREHAWK NEW AMPS OR EFFECTS. As I understand it, it was created from day one as a budget friendly simple solution that had the best of the best of all of their old PRE Helix stuff. I haven't even seen any evidence that they can add new amps and effects, and I never recall in any release notes that that was in store for the future. It is what it is - a budget device carrying the best of the best of Line 6's older models and effects. I bought it knowing that, and it's been great at what it does. I do think bug fixes are something they still intend to correct for as long as they still sell it. If you have bugs that occur regularly I'd submit them and we'll see what happens. I personally have weird glitchy stuff with the app itself, but over all nothing too much more crazy than any other electronic device. You can give up on the looper. I agree it was bad design, but that was complained about from day one, and they repeated that mistake in the HX Stomp. So far they've shown no desire to change it. Just a tip - if you use the volume pedal you can keep that from happening. Think of it as a three button deletion. Turn volume down - delete - turn volume back up. I agree it's a great product. That's why at the end of the day, for $450, I think a person should be happy with it. The only product line they are currently promising to release new stuff for is the HX line. All the other lines seem to be done. With the HD500X they USED to release new amps and models, but then they stopped. With the Firehawk they never did (correct me if I'm wrong - but I don't recall them ever adding anything). It is what it is.
  14. There are endless choices here. Test them out until you find one you like. https://line6.com/customtone/browse/hx_stomp/
  15. This probably goes without saying, but I took my HX Stomp and put that effect alone in the signal chain, and cranked everything. Tapping on the tap/tempo button had no impact and I couldn't hear any type of ambulance noise. Something here seems way bonkers.
  16. Kilrahi

    Bass Rig 4CM Issue

    Sorry Yorke. I should have suggested that out of the bat. It's an easy mistake to make if you tend to reroute stuff a lot. I do that one fairly often.
  17. Huh ... I got nothing. Where you have a video, I'd open a support ticket and send it to Line 6.
  18. This. In my opinion, you're not boosting the gain. In HX Stomp it's popular to use the basic microphone pre-amp to boost the sound of an acoustic guitar, but with that not an option on the HX Effects you'll have to go it another route. Fortunately, you do have a lot of options. Once you do that it should be fine. While not required, if you really want to make it sound good, you'll then sculpt it as suggested above. EQs are the basic musts, but you'll be shocked how much throwing a IR on top of it will do, and there's tons of free ones out there. I can point you to a few if needed.
  19. Kilrahi

    Bass Rig 4CM Issue

    I know some of this may seem like a duh, but I just want to be clear: 1. If you go instrument into the amp sounds great. 2. If you add regular effects pedals in the effects loop of the amp does it still sound great? What about Helix ONLY as an effects loop (so bass straight into amp but Helix exists in effects loop either on or off)? Would it be possible to share a preset so people can look at it? The idea that a DI box made it sound good on the old HD500 sounds weird to me.
  20. Cool. Duncann largely explains it above, but just to get more detailed, I believe the default option is for a block to be on as soon as you insert it. Nevertheless, you can tell if they're on or not because they're brighter than bypassed blocks. 1. Select the reverb you want and place it in the signal chain. With that block still selected, press the "bypass" button which toggles it off and on. Once you're certain the block is on move to step 2. 2. Press the menu button (the button at the top left of the Helix, to the right of the save button - it has three parallel lines). 3. Press knob #2 (the row of six knobs under the LCD screen). (This opens the controller assign screen). 4. Use the joystick to select the reverb block (or ANY block that you want to assign a parameter to a specific controller). 5. Turn knob 1 to select the parameter you wish to control (i.e. decay or mix would be choices). 6. Turn knob 2 to select the desired controller (everything from expression pedals, to footswitches, and even snapshots). 7. Turn knobs 4 and 5 to set the max and minimum values that you want the footswitch to toggle between. At this point you're pretty much done, you just have to exit out which automatically saved. I think many buttons take you out of there safely. It's kind of instinctual to me but I think I just tap another footswitch.
  21. Wait . . . what? I don't know of anyway to do what it sounds like you're asking. Just to give an example of what I THINK you're saying, you add the legacy plate reverb to your signal chain and connect it to FS4, but leave FS4 Off with the reverb STILL on - and then when you stomp on FS4 it ups the reverb more than already exists. That . . . sounds impossible. However, I do know of plenty of ways to essentially do what you want to do. So for example, you create your signal chain and it includes the plate reverb. You turn it on in your signal chain. Then you connect FS4 to a specific aspect of the plate reverb (i.e. decay, pre delay, tone, mix) and when you stomp on the switch it ups the amount of that particular setting to an established amount (so for example, when the switch is off mix is at 14%, when you stomp the switch it jumps to 75%). The key distinction here is that the FS4 switch never turns off the reverb, it just changes parameters on the reverb. You can also do that with either the attached expression pedal or to an additional expression pedals. So you choose the range the pedal covers (default is 0 - 100% - I usually go narrower) and it moves with the pedal. Coincidentally, outside of snapshots this is my favorite way to do it. The final way I know of is snapshots. With snapshots (which the Helix can have a crap full of - 8 I believe) each snapshot can have a different readout on the same block, so you can have one snapshot have a mix of 14%, another can up both the mix and the tone, another can increase delays but drop tone . . . etc. Honestly this is the most powerful way, in my opinion. Does any of the above sound like what you want to do? If someone else knows a third way chime in, 'cause I'd like to know about it too.
  22. Thanks for sharing that. Yeah, my heart skipped a beat in that moment because to me that would be just about the coolest damn thing ever, but I didn't want to hang too many hopes on it. Still, I'll admit it. Fingers are crossed.
  23. Kilrahi

    Bass Rig 4CM Issue

    If done correctly, there is no way that it can be sucking the tone of your amp or the signal itself. It's hard for me to diagnose though because the problems could be any number of things. How many times have you done a traditional four cable method without the Helix? When you did that, what did you use and how did THAT sound? The first thing I would want to do is to see your signal path and make sure that: 1. The cables were all corrected correctly. 2. The Helix signal path is done right. I mean, on the Helix itself there are tons of things you can do to fatten up the signal if you don't like how it sounds. Essentially what I'm saying is I know there's a way to cut the mustard here.
  24. It might help if you shared a preset . . .
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