Kilrahi

This is an interesting point though. I wonder if it would be better if they could be named. Hmmm . . .

In my opinion, no. Perhaps a tad more than the traditional approach, but still pretty easy. Keep some EQs in your chain and use them to tweak at events. This is true of any gear through headphones. Biggest reason is alone you're it, so you keep the whole thing real. Live though you need to balance yourself against other band members.

The HX Stomp, A.K.A. The Baby Helix ... has been a dream rig through headphones. So glad I did it. The days I get to hook it up to traditional amps and FRFR, also awesome. A full Helix is no different.

You sure are a strange cookie.

Yeah it can seem complex but it's actually a pretty easy question. The amp is largely flat response, so turn off all effects/equilizors and set the amp setting to "no amp" (found in the clean settings). Plug the guitar into the Helix, and the Helix into the guitar in. There's no reason to use any of Amplifi's abilities other than sound projection when you have a Helix. To beef it up you could split the Helix signal and run a wet path into the aux in channel. I've done that and with some fine tuning it can work pretty well.

WTF IS HE TALKING ABOUT?!?!?!?! *?!@#!

Yes it is. Very easy actually.

Well, I am just going to admit straight up that the longer I'm alive the more I get pulled into Line 6's ecosystem. I dipped my toe in at first, found the water pleasing, and keep getting in deeper with each passing year. I like how all of their products are great on their own, but are built to build upon each other so that you get even more use out of them when combined. So in regards to the Powercab 112, it's my favorite of the FRFR speakers. There's a number of things I like about them. First and foremost, the flat response is great, which is exactly what most people are seeking. However, unique to the Powercab is the cab modeling they included, which I felt sounded awesome and was a welcome addition. When used, you may find it sounds better in some situations than just a flat response, and it conserves DSP (which on the Helix may not be too huge a deal, but for Stomp users like me it is a plus). Other FRFR cabinets won't have that option. I also like that it has an L6 link (at least the plus does) so that SOMEDAY (it's entirely baffling this can't be done yet) the Helix ought to be able to control the cab choices on the Powercab. Until then, you can do it with Midi (again, on the plus) which is also a reasonable approach. Finally, it also has a low cut switch on there, which I've never used, but since the age of two on upwards switches are always cool in my book. So yeah, that's the one I like. However, if I were to buy a budget FRFR it would be the Headrush one. It's a pretty solid deal, and quite a bit cheaper. https://www.musiciansfriend.com/amplifiers-effects/headrush-frfr-112-2000w-1x12-powered-speaker-cab?pdpSearchTerm=headrush

In regards to this goal, the easiest way is to try first just plugging in your Helix directly into the effects return loop. That should bypass the H & K preamp. In regards to proper block or setting within the Helix, that's either a really complicated answer or really simple depending on your experience. The simple answer is if you've got a lot of experience with the traditional route (guitars/amps/pedals) then you basically mimic that virtually with the Helix. A simple path might look like this: Helix Chain: 1. Guitar in to Helix >>>> Compressor Block >>> Distortion Block >>>> Preamp of Choice (no cab - that's the job of your H & K) >>>> Post time based effects blocks >>>> Main Out on Helix into FX Return on H & K. 2. H&K Volume/etc. tuned to taste. That would be the place I would start with and work from there. The main thing to remember is that the Helix preamp only models, without the cabs, are meant to be used in cases where you already have an existing cab. If you decide you want to use the H & K preamp then you would turn to a four cable connection and simply not add a preamp, amp, or cab to the Helix signal chain.

Well, that admittedly shoots down my theory two posts above. Is there a general link to that stuff? Or a title I should search for? That would be interesting.

Unfortunately I bought the adaptor for the android phone instead of the IOS adaptor because it was cheaper and I was broke. I still intend to buy the IOS one. My hope was the apps would work similarly. Typically Line 6 has tweaked their Apple version first rather than the android one, so if it works in android usually it works in IOS. Your experience so far would seem to argue otherwise though.

Interesting. The HX Stomp manual doesn't specify that it needs a special expression pedal. It only recommends the Mission one because it can actually act as a dual pedal (for wah and volume - thus saving space). Based on the manual alone, my assumption would be the Boss FV-500H would be no problem at all. However, generally I trust user reviews more than general manual guidelines as long as those users have actually tried it. One user, you can chalk it up to user error. Multiple users you can start to assume there's a problem. Did you read reports of users who've actually tried it failing? It would be surprising to me because expression pedals are actually pretty simple circuitry and it's hard for me to fathom the Stomp failing with any pedal designed for general use. To answer your second question, as far as I know any normal expression pedal would be just fine. So if the Boss one failed for some inexplicable reason it would be a unique case, and any other expression pedal you liked should work just fine.

It was a few days ago that I looked at the thread, but if I remember right it looks like it was never intended as an official notice of an official update. Someone posted that they wondered when we'd get another update, and it just so happened Digital Igloo replied, probably as an after thought, and said, "Hey, it's actually coming pretty soon here, and here's kind of what we've done . . ." I still get where you're coming from. Obviously he replied there because he's more active in that forum, and you do kind of wish the official forum had the same amount of activity, but my hunch is this one is scanned less because it's seen as more of a user/technical support forum and their perception is the users do just fine handling most of those issues. Meanwhile, they love music, gear, etc. and there are more interesting general gear conversations over there.

Image cloudy. Ask again later.

I wish. I'd buy that in a flash. I used a Firehawk before the Stomp and so it was tough to kiss the VDI integration goodbye. Still is because I play unusual tuning stuff frequently. However, you should know that OTHER than that the battery method and model switching works pretty well. The battery is supposed to be good for at least ten hours. I can confirm it lasts at least eight.

Is interesting to see that infidelity exists rampantly in guitar gear too. Some people just can't stop chasing tail ... err ... I mean tone.

Hmmm. It seemed to work just fine for me, but that's not to say I didn't run into issues. The issue I kept running into is that it would say "invalid token" and wouldn't let me do anything. It wasn't until I logged back out of the app and then logged back in that it would let me do it. Once I did it worked just fine. In fact, it was kind of cool because it had my Firehawk presets available too. Wasn't expecting that but it was fun. Here's the steps I followed: 1. Log out and log back in. 2. Touch "edit" menu. 3. Create tone. 4. Touch "details" menu. 5. Touch "disk" image. 6. Touch "Save to my tones as." Then it worked just fine. At which step does yours hang?

I apologize, it's been one of those times where I've been away from the guitar and amp with no time to mess around, but I'll for sure be able to this weekend. I'll keep you posted.

This is where I fall too. In my opinion your best result is four cable method and either NO amp modeling or ONLY preamp modeling with your Vox doing the amp part.

This is the one I use. It's sturdy, runs great. Takes a 9 volt battery. Just make sure you purchase a TRS to split TS cable (though technically this one also takes a single TRS to TRS cable, but I prefer the former because it future proofs you in case you decide to buy the Mission Helix pedal, which is awesome).

Whoa that's kind of a beefy question to unpack. In fact, after writing this it ended up being a bigger beast then I imagined. You may just want to do yourself a favor and skip to the two videos below and see if that solves it first. Then if needed use the below for kind of a summary. Also, there are TWO EQs in the Firehawk, a guitar one and a global. The explanation below is for the simpler guitar only, but there is only one additional concept with the global, so once you have the basics it won't be nearly as hard to get the global down. EQ is one of those things that is nearly impossible to explain in a reply, and yet once it's figured out it's honestly not near as complex (conceptually) as it sounds, though you can freaking find yourself tweaking for hours. . I've spent countless hours trying to get a grip on visualizing it - so I feel your pain. Honestly though, the problem is it's much more simplistic than people tend to think it is. There's a few steps to understanding the Firehawk's EQ, in this order: 1. All sound is really just a specified number of vibrations per second. High frequencies have more vibrations per second than mid range frequencies, and mid range and highs have more than low. What are frequencies? They're basically cycles, or vibrations, per second. 2. You should envision sound as a conceptual wave , and your EQ attempts to mathematically shape that wave. So a sound wave travels - and there are low, mid, and high frequencies. 3. The human ear is a pretty limited beast - of the vibrations occurring in that aforementioned sound wave, it can only hear between 20 Hz and (or 20 cycles/vibrations per second) and 20 kHz (or 20,000 cycles/vibrations per second. Highs are towards the upper level of that. Mids are . . . well, kind of in the middle, and lows are towards the lower end. The older we get the more our ears suck, and most of us can barely manage 16 kHz. 4. A lo shelf and a hi shelf gain is a conceptual straight line - or shelf - at a particular frequency (so, for example, a low shelf set at 133 HZ represents a cut off point - or a shelf - like a metaphorical book shelf if you will, at 133 cycles per second). 5. The second control is a gain. On the Firehawk, you can either boost the gain (for example, by 1 DB - which means decibel) or reduce the gain (such as by -1 DB). What does that mean? Well, if you set the low shelf frequency at 133 Hz, and set the low shelf gain to -4 DB then you are saying I want all low frequencies from 133 (the shelf) or below to be reduced by 4 decibels. If you say +4 DB then you're saying you want them louder by that amount. The same is true of the mid range too. Hi shelfs work in the opposite direction. If you set a hi shelf at 3 khz (or 3,000 cycles per second) at +3 db then you are amplifying everything at that shelf and ABOVE. Reduction does just the opposite. 6. It's over my head as to why, but we don't refer to mid frequency stuff as a shelf. Nevertheless, on the Firehawk, you can set a frequency level for the mid range (for example, 864 Hz) and a gain or reduction just as with the low and high shelfs, and what this means is you are increasing or decreasing the mids at that frequency. 7. Equalizing is not an exact science. Every time you mess with a sound wave something is lost even when something is gained - think of it as the way magic is described in the Harry Potter series (I think it was Harry Potter). Even with shelves, you don't PERFECTLY reduce or amplify any of those frequencies - it's just a rough aproximation of what's happening. There's always a cost. You should keep this in the back of your head to keep yourself from being one of those people who falls down the rabbit hole of EQ'ing a perfectly imperfect gorgeous sound into a smoldering hell hole of slag. Once you've gone over the steps above, here are some tips: 1. A common beginners step with EQ is to "scoop" your guitar's wave. This basically means you raise the lows and highs and either ignore or actually reduce the mids. It's a simplistic way of thinking about it but in the beginning it can be a good starting point. 2. A great approach is to learn off of the Firehawk's presets, both the ones built in and the ones from the tone cloud. EQ is one of the things the presets worked on, so find ones you like and take a look at what the EQ did to HELP with the tone. This did wonders for me as I would pay attention to what generally made an acoustic preset sound good versus an electric. Finally, I wouldn't be surprised if a lot of this still sounds like gobbly lollipop. If you'd like to read up more on it, wiki is a great place, but also this site: https://www.ccisolutions.com/StoreFront/category/mix-like-a-pro-3-understanding-eq AND even better, the two videos below. They're based off the Spider V amp but honestly the Firehawk and the Spider are near cousins in the EQ world. If you watch both videos it should do wonders for you. Honestly you'll probably wonder why you waisted your time on my gobbly lollipop above:

You have to think of a preset almost like it's own pedal board. If you had your looper on one pedal board, but not another, the board without a looper would never be able to loop anything. You'd have to pick it up and carry it to the new board. The above user does give some good ideas that there's no reason you can't throw it before the Helix or after the Helix in your signal chain, but alas, one thing the Helix can't do is anticipate when and where you want a Looper block or effects loop in a new preset unless you tell it so. Maybe the Helix 2026. Good question though. Edit: On a side note, if you're not doing it already, I'd recommend doing massive preset changes with the PC program HX edit. It's honestly pretty fast - comparatively - to drop a looper and FX block where you want it. Not perfect, but pretty fast.

Where did you hear that? That's like saying running a Wampler pedal through a looper switcher is a tone killer. An HX Stomp either perfectly takes in your guitar signal and perfectly sends it out processed or unprocessed. All an ES-5 or ES-8 does is choose which flood gates are open. Your Stomp and tone will be just fine.

Cool. So you're basically looking for something like this (1/4" TRS Male to 1/4" TRS Male cable): https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CSS-110-Balanced-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068NYG/ref=pd_sbs_267_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000068NYH&pd_rd_r=9453e9e9-0b05-11e9-91e2-f976ad544836&pd_rd_w=sa8Pn&pd_rd_wg=FAUmG&pf_rd_p=7d5d9c3c-5e01-44ac-97fd-261afd40b865&pf_rd_r=F2M9CNEWB779PDP71SKD&refRID=F2M9CNEWB779PDP71SKD&th=1

Honestly, to some degree it depends on the type of momentary switch you have. Does the dual switch have one jack or two? Either way, yes, you need a specific cable (not really special - just specific). The most common one for a dual footswitch is one like this: https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/STP202--hosa-stp202-2-meter If you look at it, the single jack that goes into the Stomp has two rings on it - that's a must - it's called a 1/4" TRS cable - then the two cables splitting off the Y have one ring on them - that's because they're 1/4" TS cables. What type of switch do you have? That answer can help people help you better.