themetallikid

yeah its annoying cause I set my Wah on Exp 1, and that's all I use. I suppose I could set it on 2 but that would annoy my preset OCD, lol. Once you save it, it should be fine and preset as EXP 1 when you call it up.

Not sure if its similarly related...But since the 2.8/2.8.1 update (everything 'known bug' went fine for me btw), i've decided to redo my templates and core presets. I deleted and reimported my IR's to clean up the ones I dont use, and the IR files now do not sound hte same as they did before. They were purchased via the l6 online store (Ownhammer Freidman pack). I've tested A&C block vs Amp/Cab blocks vs Amp/IR block....and the stock cabs are fine, but anything imported (3Sigma guitar IR's as well) sound not right when dropped in my preset. I'm going to try CraigAndertons approach of dropping them on the desktop then dragging over....however I store my IRs in a special L6 folder for easy remembering on my end, and have tried dragging/dropping as well as using the 'import' button in HX Edit. Not sure if its the same or if its a different issue on L6 end or my end. One last note, anyone know what the little guitar pick symbol means next to the IR file name in HX Edit? Its only on my actual CAB IRs not the 3 Sigma ones....

So with the new amps etc...I'm deciding to redo my core tones/templates and 'clean house' from all the edits i've made to presets.... I went through my IR's chose my faves and got them imported into the IR list in HX Edit. Sat down today and started working on my Single Amp and Dual Amp Templates. For simplicity sake, I dropped the REVV A&C block in each template and got them leveled volume wise (using the merge block to compensate for the signal split, amp at stock settings). I then started working on the core tones, based off the template for Single Amp. I dropped a JC120 Amp only block in there at the end of Path 1, then dropped an IR on the first spot of path 2. Sounded like junk....tried swapping IR's, no difference in sound other than some change due to different speaker/mix choices. I'm using Ownhammer Freidman IR's....I started with the V30 (various mixes), tried different speakers.....no luck. They all sounded like either a room mic far away from the cab....or if you only heard a short reverb's wet sound and very little dry signal. I double checked my preset...no reverb block inserted...I checked to make sure I went to an Amp only block and didnt have a A&C plus an IR....everything was good there. I also noticed this when importing the 3 Sigma guitar IR's I just purchased as well. The presets I imported from before the 2.8(.1) upgrade were fine...but i'm worried now that those presets will be junk now that I've moved the IR's and am at where I'm at. I did notice that the IR's have a guitar pick symbol next to them...not sure where that came from or what it means. Any ideas why whats happenning is happening?

that's what I thought. Unless the level parameter in the IR block does something weird frequency wise that a flat EQ block or gain block doesn't do......maybe boosting the IR block extends the frequency boost/cuts to something that isn't desirable for the IR chosen going forward down the line.

So I thought I'd try these as Im all about simplifying and using the tech I have available...and to be honest its cheaper than buying full out pickups or another guitar and 90% of the crowd can't tell the difference anyway... SO..... In reading the information file on these I can across this at the end.... "Helix and Axe-Fx – Add a cab block and an EQ block before the amp. Load the Electric Impulses in the first cab block. Then, use the gain slider on the EQ block to adjust the overall level going into the amp. (Use impulses from the 48 folder)" Why wouldnt I just drop an IR block first in my chain and use the level parameter there instead of using a seperate EQ block as well?

2nd thought, don't even need a volume block, just attach snapshots to the output block/parameter or the last block in your guitar path.... just thought that maybe you don't have room for another block in the chain.

QUICK THOUGHT...........while reading this dawned on me.....for my acoustic/vocal setup, I mainly use one preset, and maybe 2 or 3 snapshots. My guitar is on path 1, and my vocals on path 2......same issue when I tune my mic is muted as well. However.... why not just add a volume block to the end of your guitar path, and create a snapshot called Tuning where on that snapshot the volume block is engaged and essentially turned down. By going to that snapshot your guitar is muted out front, yet vocals still come through, then you can set the tuner settings to allow signal to pass through and not mute. Your really just taking the mute function from the tuner and place it elsewhere via Snapshot/Volume block.

this was just about the only noticeable thing for me with my presets....wasn't a show stopper either only 2 out of 90 presets utilized stomps in this way as a momentary switch....but still glad to see it was resolved. Only other issue I have is that on one specific preset I cannot get the auto engage parameters to stick regarding my wah sound. I have it so toe down is 'off' and 97% engages the wah, it works when I save the preset, but when I got to use it again, the called up preset is correct (wah off) when I rock back past 97%, nothing happens. When I go back up to 100% (should be off) it now turns on the wah. Almost like its reading 97+% as the 'on' area. Its only one preset and I've 'fixed' it several times and resaved. Not a big deal as once the 2.80 issues were resolved I was going to redo my templates for songs anyway to help with volume issues. You learn so much on the forums and over time with the unit that its almost easier to start from scratch than try and undo/redo things....

Yes I do not us an static number for my boost, I only use maybe 4-5 amps in most of my presets, at least the ones with leads in them. I usually use an EQ boosting 800hz, and either a TS808/Kinky Boost or Valve Driver depending on which amp and type of lead I want. So those give me the 'tone' change, but I still like to get out front and the gain boost just gives me an extra step on that. It isn't super different, but I've been debating if there is a better way or should be eliminated. With 2 guitars its nice to have that extra ride on top during leads. Its not much, just enough....until we use another system, lol.

yeah my LAMF foot controller had that option and it was great for those quick lead lines where looking down, stepping, playing, stepping again all while trying to sing in a matter of a 1-2 second window can be annoying. not impossible...but annoying when there are easier ways to simplify it. I used to assign those changes to my expression pedal and 'pose' on that while singing and rock it back and forth as needed....

Yeah this is something i've experienced often. I dont know if the 'above' is happening, but I have noticed this. When we first started (pre-Helix for my) we had a dedicated sound guy, and I would tweak tones at home using headphones/powered wedge (i'm educated enough to adjust and not make the headphones/wedge perfect, but perfect for FOH)...I'd get what would seem like a good lead boost (most presets are +3db gain block at end of the chain before output, maybe not the best approach?) but when I get to the FOH...the lead tones are louder or not as loud as what I had dialed in at home, then having to readjust each preset again using the main rig and doing a quick adjustment on all presets before we start. Also when those tones were dialed in well with our system when I would play elsewhere it just seemed like they were louder than what we had on our system. Again, not sure where its coming from, but I have noticed that different systems seem to cause issues with my volume boosts for leads.

THis is my goal as well...other than the level adjustments at the board, the sound techs I've got in my area usually run me flat as well...and occaisionally will make a cut somewhere in the upper mids/lower highs due to speaker differences...but they usually don't have to turn my tones in to a rollercoaster of peaks and cuts to get it right.

story of modeling and direct to FOH...its hard to find a good balance and almost impossible to 'perfect' them. You can use metering to get 'close' or ballpark, but your ears will be the best approach. Here is something else to consider that I run into. My band uses our own PA setup so I can setup our stuff and tweak away to make sure the audience is getting what I want them to get with my guitar sounds. HOWEVER, there are a few places that have in house sound systems....though the sound guys are quality guys (one guy is on the road with Cheap Trick often), the systems are quality systems....and we use the same line of rack/digital mixers....the difference comes in how they gain stage the channel strip. I especially have issues with lead boosts, as I prefer to boost things from my end rather than rely on a sound guy to pay attention and fader ride me all night. Lets say for the sake of simplicity that I have everything 'perfect' on our pa, the input gain is at 0.0 on my guitar channel....if I go play with one of the other PA systems and to get his system 'happy' he has boost my channels gain at the board by 3.0db, then every volume nuance I have in my presets (and my lead boosts, which are perfect for our system) will be blown even wider apart and sound like there is a bigger discrepancy than there is....being that I have over 90 song presets and usually use 45-50 in a night, its really hard to reprogram the lead boosts between sound check and start time, so its either roll with the volume issues or work with the sound guy to explain whats happening. In my case the sound guys get it, and they reduce the gain and raise the fader a bit, and it helps correct the issue.... but something to consider with home system vs pa systems that the gain staging at the mixer will affect any volume differences you have with your own rig.

I guess I can see how that can be beneficial, using one button essentially rather than 2 to go from rhythm>lead>rhythm..... Initially I had read into it thinking they were able to make Snapshots Momentary (with the toggle mode enabled). So eliminating the 2nd press....just a momentary switch. So Rhythm (Snapshot 1) > Lead (Snapshot 2) while held down > (release button 2) Returns to previous snapshot in this instance Snapshot 1. Was hoping that it would eliminate having to have duplicate blocks for snapshot lead changes and Momentary lead changes via Stomp Mode. I don't 'need' that option often, however the songs its on would be much appreciated, and I'm sure I could use that feature then on a few more songs where it isn't required but makes the tap dance while singing a bit easier. This is a nice stop gap for some songs, just not the homerun I was looking for.

So if I'm reading this right, this would mean Rhythm - Button 1, Chorus - Button 2, Lead button 3.....I could be on Snapshot 1, press button 3 to kick into lead, and then either press 1 or 3 to get back to the rhythm snapshot? Or am I reading this incorrectly? If I am reading this correctly....is there a way to make this 'momentary' or is it only in a latching fashion as Snapshots are used now?

I have this issue too.....although not with snapshots, its when I'm using a stomp button (2 presets, more complex than most of the ones I use). I mostly use Snapshots to change parts of songs, but for 2 songs Slither/Crazy Train, for the sake of convenience while singing/playing lead on both....I have duplicate lead blocks (EQ/Drive/Delay/Vol Boost) for each method (Snapshot, Stomp button) as each block can only be controlled by one method (unless I'm wrong here). So the snapshot version of my lead adjustments work fine, but when I go into stomp mode for the 'momentary' version of the lead sound, there is a very noticeable 1 second delay in the on/off bypass of these blocks. I had no issues with my update, I did notice that it rebuilt my presets the 2nd time I booted Helix up, but since then its been fine. Only other thing I've noticed that has really affected me is that the Expression pedal always defaults to Exp 2 and some of my assignments have been reset back to EXP 1....so had to have a quick go around with the Editor to make sure all the ends were tied up properly.

am I able to download the new guitar or do I have to purchase it? Will there be an IR that they are releasing that will make my guitar sound in tune, even when its not?

I really like adding a drive along with my wah before it to be engaged at the same time. sort of gives the wah a more aggressive tone.. I'll post my settings later.

Yeah you definitely need to 'get accustomed' to the colouring of your monitor system. I know that if I tweak things via my powered wedge, it translates pretty well to our full PA (something weird in the mids going on, but not enough to be concerned...the top/low ends are fine. However, if I tweak via my headphones, I know that those are boomier or thicker in the lower mids and I make sure to not over tweak by making them sound good, cause when it goes to the wedge/PA it will be thin and harsh. The headphones are good at helping with the high end, but the low end is the problem spot there. Just have to know your system and what its weak points are and keep that in mind. That's something where normally you would tweak with your ears not your eyes, but I would say use your head/eyes in my case. If Its boomy and my bass is at 2.5, then be smart and only make a small adjustment and recognize its the monitor system.

I think I got a response that triggered an 'A-Ha' moment for me.....and an admission of stupidity, lol. I have the Midiplus in/outs (as labeled on the Midiplus) plugged into the Helix in/outs (respectively). meaning in/in and out/out...thinking the label was a guide to which cable goes in which jack....however, someone pointed out it should be the opposite Helix In/Midiplus Out and Helix Out/Midiplus In...makes total sense and I would make that mistake years ago with my Fractal/LAMF Controller/Laptop setup when I plugged them in in a hurry sometimes. It seems I was correct in my Midi settings and I just need to reverse the damn cables, I wont get to try til later tonight.

I can definately try program changes..and see if that helps. I do have a post on the Bandhelper forum as well, its just not as busy. The cable could be junk as well, I havent used it in probably 5-6 years, just been sitting in my extra cable bin. As far as the settings in Helix (other than CC vs PC) am I missing anything?

Ok, I'm all ready to start using the Bandhelper app for my acoustic stuff and I have songs/setlist setup, Just can't seem to get them to talk to each other. I have an older MidiPlus Midilnk 2x2 I used to use with my Axe FX/LAMF foot controller/Axe Edit back in the day. I think it should work to allow the Helix to send the CC messages to scroll/change songs...but I'm not getting it right. Can someone confirm the Midi settings I need to make sure are enabled or set right? I have the Midi Channel set to Omni (BH app is set to 'All'), I have CC's 80-83 set up in the command center to control prev/next song, scroll up/down functions. I have them set to send a midi message of 127. In the Midi settings menu I have Midi Thru on, Midi over USB On, MIDI/PC Receive/Send to both Midi & USB, Duplicate PC Send on. I'm sure some of these I dont really need but just want to make sure i'm not sabotaging my own setup. On the Midi/USB cable I have there are 5 lights: red, yellow/green, yellow/green. the red I assume means (its been awhile since I used it) that it is connected, the yellow/greens show any information being transmitted in/out for each pair. When I step on my stomp buttons, I'm seeing no blinking of the yellow/green lights which makes me think something isnt set right in the Helix. Any help?

in the editor just right click on the snapshot name area and choose no color I think it says. On the helix, its been awhile since I"ve done it, but I think you have to save the snapshot and there one of the knobs rotates the colors.....I don't remember the exact steps.

I heard they didn't have khaki's back then in Australia, so plumber would be more likely.

I came across an old MIDI>USB cable I had called the MidiPlus Midilink 2x2. I used it when I had my Axe FX and a LAMF foot controller so that I could connect all three and use the Fractal PC editor and everything. Worked great... I think I can just use half of the 2x2 and run one set of the in/outs from the Helix to the Tablets USB. Would you be willing to walk me through how you set it up that way? That would work for my Full Band scenario