jonandtice

I think having a volume knob on the Helix is counterproductive. Mine is assigned to only control the 1/4" out but since there are settings for instrument/line level I don't actually ever move the knob. Seems to me like the volume knob just encourages bad habits (turning monitoring volume up after sound check, not properly volume balancing presets, etc.).

We weren't supposed to have to though. HX Edit is supposed to update itself now. Didn't work for me though, using Windows. I did update it manually and got it working before I posted though.

It sounds like what happens to me when my DAW is monitoring the Helix USB signal to the same monitors that the Helix 1/4" outputs are going into. I end up with a duplicate signal that sounds bigger because it is louder and the DAW signal is imperceptibly delayed compared to the other one.

I think we've failed to answer your original question which was what makes a standalone power amp different from a guitar amp power amp. Typically guitar amp power amps are tube power amps. That may or may not be a good thing depending on how you are using your Helix. I think solid state power amps are common in bass amps. I haven't used one myself but the Tech 21 Power Engine Deuce Deluxe is what I would get if I was playing both guitar and bass with Helix and wanted a more traditional cab-like amp-in-the-room thing. If you want an actual guitar cabinet/speaker that works for bass and guitar, Quilter has been putting a Celestion BN12-300 (which is a bass speaker) in their Mach 2 Combo 12HD, which is a guitar amp. So a power amp with a March 2 HD Extension cabinet or a bass cabinet with a similar speaker might be an option.

I got this and it works https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/XRF110--hosa-xrf110 Just to revisit what has been said in this thread before: Technically, you should use S/PDIF connectors and cable meant for digital signals but for short lengths of cable, RCA and instrument cable work. The AES/EBU digital signal is technically different than what the S/PDIF is expecting to receive but they are similar enough that they do work together in most cases. So your issue is probably that the connector isn't wired correctly, or that the connector + your RCA cable has too much signal loss for the digital signal.

I dial stuff in at home on studio monitors and IEM with backing tracks that are similar to what the live sound will be. I kind of have a sense now for how it will translate to the live sound. You will learn after a few tries how to adjust. My personal opinion, if you get the Helix and studio monitors for home and IEM for live, you will have a better enjoyment balance between practice and live performance. The two will be closer together than what you are experiencing now. Even if they aren't exactly the same in both environments they will be more similar than different compared to your current situation. Your other option would be to use a reactive loadbox such as the Two Notes Torpedo Captor. If you really like your current amp, this is what you should do.

Looking forward to a video on it from you!

I wasn't. I checked Help -> About HX Edit... It said 3.10. I rebooted just to make sure it wasn't using old libraries.

@yeatzee I feel like the new Dynamic Hall reverb in 3.10 replicates your sound exactly (or whatever variation of it I had). Would you concur? This is exciting! My settings are: Decay: 7.5sec Predelay: 100ms Room Size: 20m Diffusion: 85% Damping: 10.0 kHz Mix: 100% (could be like a 40% mix in series and not in parallel anymore but I still like running in parallel) Motion: 2.0 Low Freq: 100 Hz Low Gain: 0.0 dB Low Cut: 120 Hz High Cut: 8.0 kHz

I had HX Edit 3.01. It told me there was an update so I clicked. It updated both HX Edit and Helix to 3.10. However, HX Edit wasn't showing me the new blocks even though HX Edit was saying it was 3.10. I reinstalled 3.10 manually and then it worked.

Sometimes the 4CM cables can create a ground loop and you need to isolate one of the cables but it sounds like you have it narrowed down to the USB. I have the same USB problem but it isn't really that bad until I have something running that makes my graphics card work hard. So I think in my case, the graphics card or the PC power supply is leaking power when there is high demand from the graphics card. Also, it's worse when my guitar pickups are facing the PC. The closer I am, the worse the noise.

Except for the handwired ones, all the modern production AC30s have FX loops. I have an AC30C2 and wouldn't have bought it without an FX loop. I run it in 4CM sometimes and it's great.

If you need something stereo happening before the amp and you want to preserve the stereo separation, you could do this: stereo effect1 -> Split Y A:L100-> amp -> mono effect2 -> mono cab block -> Merge A:L100 B:R100-> amp -> mono effect2 -> mono cab block -> B:R100 However, I usually like to place effects before or after amp/cab in which case you could do this place the a dual cab after the merge point and place effect2 as stereo after that.

You are correct the sync should be S/PDIF but mine works as internal too. I just get some audio clicks once in a while. Also audio RCA work fine as long as they aren't too long.

OK I missed the part where you had a looper in your FX loop, so your FX loop makes sense now. The main problem you have right now is that the bottom path should be set to USB 1/2 and your FX loop should be before the split if you want the looper output in your DAW. Your signal path should be: [Input] -> [Effects Blocks] -> [FX Loop] -> [Split] -> [Output1] -> [Amp Block] -> [IR Block] -> [Output2] Output1 would be set to Main L/R like you have it and those would go to the DV and the Peavey as you describe. Output2 should be set to USB 1/2 and if you adjust the setting I gave you above (recommendation #4) your headphones will give you what you want.