theElevators

It is. Minus the very low quality micro-switches. Even worse than those on the Helix.

Try making sure your tap preference is set to transparent. Otherwise by default you get these glitchy sounds when delay bpm changes. As I stated previously, I can’t imagine why anybody would want to hear those glitchy sounds. But some people do. So check if this is what you’re referring to. I personally often change the bpm of the delay to glue several snapshots together better. But I use normal conventional delay blocks.

I use Mail Order Twin on a very clean setting exclusively. It works very well as a clean platform for various effects, distortions. I tried a bunch of amps, and this is the one I settled on. Everything else was too boomy, noisy, glassy, etc....

What expression pedal do you use? Try a different one. They are so cheap, you can just buy a new one for 20 dollars or so.

You simply need a lot of distortion and active pickups. But this sounds like studio trickery.... Try to use the pitch wham effect that you can control with your expression pedal (if applicable). Otherwise, set it to 2 octaves higher, crank the distortion, and that could be close enough if you get feedback and use the whammy. Also you could try to use the feedbacker block as well.

You took it for a test drive. Now try to make it your daily driver. Playing a few sounds with it is not the same thing as taking it on the road and playing 30-song sets with it every night. ifs nice and shiny when it’s brand-new. And then you start discovering bugs, having hardware issues.

You can also use the expression pedal to switch on additional sounds. You can even double the amount of sounds you have with the expression pedal. For example, you can use it to boost your solos in certain snapshots, add a wah in other snapshots. There are definitely ways to squeeze more than 4 snapshot sounds out of this thing. You can have at least 8 different sounds while using snapshots, and that's plenty to be able to perform even the most complicated songs... Here's what I do, in a hypothetical example: My expression pedal 1 controls: wah pedal, reverb delay amount. I assigned wah's mix percentage to snapshots. The wah is auto-engaged based on the percentage of the expression pedal. So if I rock the pedal past 5%, it turns on, otherwise it's off. But the trick I use is that I mix the wah pedal at 0% in certain snapshots. That means that rocking the pedal does not turn on the wah... well it turns on but mixed at 0% it is useless. So now the same expression pedal 1 can operate other things instead in different snapshots. So by bypassing blocks, setting other blocks to bypass when the expression pedal reaches a certain percentage, and making sure that in each snapshot you don't have 2 things sounding at the same time that you wish to control with the expression pedal... I'm able to really go crazy with the variety of sounds. I do not use the pedal switch to toggle between expression 1 and 2... but if you want to use it, you can control even more things with that switch. You can turn things on/off with that "additional" footswitch, and you can assign various functions to it, multiple blocks at the same time. If interested, check out my YT channel, I have some videos on how I use the Pod Go.

et maintenant en anglais, s'il tu plait....

Welcome to the world of digital amp modelling! It's a little confusing, but you'll get a hang of it. .. Helix and Pod Go user here. 1. My advice is to take your actual physical rig, and transfer it to the HX stomp one piece at a time. For example, take a blank preset, connect it to your physical amp you use along with your physical pedalboard, and just A/B each component. First find a replacement for your distortion, then vibrato, etc. Then when you are done, replace the amp with the virtual one. That's what I did, personally. Presets/snapshots are explained in the help manual. Some people like the stomp mode, some snapshots, some a combination of both. I use a preset-per-song approach and, within each presets, I use snapshots for all the different sounds. There are some projects where I have just one preset that gets me through all the songs. It depends on what you are playing. If you only need 3 sounds throughout your gig... versus very nuanced time-based effects set to specific BPM. 2. Factory presets are garbage, and simply demonstrate what's possible. To me they are not usable, and I discarded them almost immediately after getting the Helix. The rule of thumb is that your "New Presets" should be the same loudness as your actual presets. If your presets are louder than the blank presets, then you will get harsh digital clipping. 3. If you are planning to use HX Stomp as an all-in-one solution, you need mixing monitors to properly dial in your sound. If you are planning to use HX Stomp to replace your pedalboard, but are still running through a physical "tube" amp, then you don't need mixing monitors. I personally don't use an FRFR live or at home, just keep it in my car just in case. Instead, I use a Mooer Baby Bomb + a 12" speaker cab. These questions have been discussed at length on this forum. Everybody's gone through this. Try searching for "FRFR", "power amp", "mixing monitors".

FRFR can tolerate bass frequencies, but only to a certain point. I would simply use a real bass amp, set on a clean setting as a monitor. Bass amps are kind-of PAs by definition, they don't really color the sound (typically), unless you try to sound like Lemmy.

Try coarse tuner. It’s not as jumpy.

I am guessing this is caused by the guitar, since you stated that a cable without guitar into the Helix produces no ticking. I have had ticking when I didn’t remove the protective plastic all the way from the pick guard of my guitar. Some kind of an induction from static electricity or something. I’ve also had all sorts of noises when the output jack of the guitar had the ground wire about to come off. Also, is your USB cable plugged in? Try unplugging it.

Here's a caveat: the mono block at the end has to be turned on. A bypassed mono block at the end doesn't mix down the signal to mono. Pretty sure.....

correct

Reason for mono and stereo blocks: 1. mono blocks (delay, chorus, etc) simply do not give you a mono delay/chorus effect. Left and right channels will be identical. 2. stereo blocks (delay, chorus, etc) give you a different sound in left/right channels. For example stereo ping-pong delay is that you hear the note, then repeats on left, then right. 3. due to laws of physics, stereo effects with hard panning will sound completely different in terms of their balance compared with you running the same signal in mono. See https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Panning_law For effects such as compressor, volume, etc: 1. If you have a bunch of stereo effects in your chain, if you follow those up with a mono volume block, then your signal turns to mono. 2. If you want to retain stereo sound, and at the end of your chain add a volume pedal, then use the stereo equivalent. So that's really all there is to it. Some blocks work and sound differently whether they are mono or stereo versions. For example, there's no such thing as a mono ping-pong delay, because it's just delay that doesn't have any panning of the delayed notes. And for blocks that do not create any stereo effects by themselves, their stereo versions simply preserve the stereo signal that is going into them. You can think of a stereo volume pedal as a left-channel volume pedal and a right-channel volume pedal glued together.

You can also use an expression pedal, and assign a feedback range value to it (min: 0; max: 70) value to it, as well as the delay bypass. For quick back and forth changes, I prefer to use the expression pedal personally, otherwise you'll wear out the button pretty fast!

What you are describing can be achieved with snapshots. You can bypass or unbypass your delay, and change the feedback percentage inside snapshots. So you can create 2 such snapshots. You can use stackable snapshots where one button cycles through multiple snapshots.

There's already this video. For Helix LT, it's very similar. I was able to get to the PCB board easily without any glue removal. Just make sure your buttons/spring mechanisms don't fly out when you remove the screws. Do it on a table, and keep track of all the screws where they go.

There are a lot of reverbs that can give you a close approximation of that sound. Try the "Octo" Reverb, it gives it a nice strings-like texture. If you turn up the "mix" parameter, you get very synth-like tones, the only problem is the delayed response. So if you play before the beat, you can make it work. You can get close to synths by adding a Tron Up (envelope filter) int the beginning of the chain as well. The Synths that were recently added to the Helix are not really usable to me.

Hey gang. This morning I cleaned out my footswitches, and made a little video. It's a very easy procedure, a lot easier than what's involved on the Helix.

Made a video this morning btw. The footswitch was driving me nuts, so I had to clean it. I just hate it when you are about to play a show, and your buttons are working 85% of the time.

To give you yet another example about these garbage switches... I have a Pod GO in addition to 2 Helixes. I decided to deliberately use a Pod GO for my next gig. So, created 14 presets, and I'm using snapshots. I have not yet played a single gig with it yet, so I'm just practicing at home. During the practicing, I'm switching my sounds, not every second, but maybe 5-6 times during each song. Yesterday I noticed one of the buttons stopped engaging properly. You click the button, no change happens, until you push it all the way down. I pressed the button a bunch of times, pressed it in and turned it, and it started working properly. So there you go. Not a single gig yet, and the buttons are already not working properly.

If there's warranty, then go for it and buy it. Otherwise, all these Line 6 products have very questionable build quality. The buttons/micro-switches start misbehaving after a year of regular use. Lots of Line 6 fanboys will say "I've had my Helix since 2015, and 0 issues". But in reality, I own 2 Helixes and the buttons always start going bad after about a year of regular sensible use.

Assign the mix parameter to snapshots. Want the wah to be off? Set the mix at 0%.

If you are talking about having an amplifier block for example and changing one parameter between snapshots.... You can simply add the block to the preset. Set all the parameter values as you need. Then in HX Edit right-click on the parameter "Gain" and assign it to "snapshots". That way you get square brackets, like [Gain]. Then you can go into individual snapshots, change the Gain amount to 10, 11, 12 and save it like that in different snapshots. If you realize that you want the value of Gain to be the same in all snapshots, then again right-click on the [Gain] parameter, assign it to "None". Then the square brackets will disappear and it will say "Gain" (not no square brackets). Now you can set the value of Gain to whatever you want. Once you save it, then all snapshots will have the same value. Want to change the Gain in one specific snapshot? Then repeat the process of assigning gain to "snapshots", go into a specific snapshot, and change the value. I use this trick sometimes if I realize that in most snapshots the value should be changed, I remove the "snapshot" assignment.