radatats

I use dual amps all the time with little to no problems. If you think you might have a phase issue due to a weak, thin sound, place a vintage pre in front of one of the amps and change the phase from 0 to 180. You will know right away if that is the issue. You can use the same amp in both channels, just use different cabs or mics to complement each other. Try panning them towards center, not 100. Try 34 to 50 each side instead.

don't see why that should be required... Just talking about them modeling a different strat, one closer to the 1.9 sound, and offering it for download as an loadable model.

Might not help with this specific problem but we spent a lot of energy on figuring out mixer settings and the DT direct out last year on two epic threads. The links are below for you to read and maybe get another understanding of how this stuff plays together... http://line6.com/support/topic/4651-mixer-blasphemy/ http://line6.com/support/topic/5403-dt-cabinet-simulated-direct-out-questions/

in LVM the DT will use the full amp model even if your patch in the POD calls for a pre model in order to add the power section detail that you would have had if the DT were turned up louder. That is why you will see differences between LVM and normal DT operation. Unless you are in Standby, the tubes are always being utilized however, since there is no other actual amplification in the DT. We did epic threads on this whole issue last year trying to figure out how it all works together but unfortunately Line 6 does not provide any details on signal flow or integration. You can check out the thread link below to read what we went through. Maybe it helps to understand... http://line6.com/support/topic/4231-channel-volume-vs-master-volume/

yeah there have been some epic threads on this and I put a couple of links here for you to read. In my experience, and it seems borne out by others, setting inputs to same for anything other than a dual amp patch gives too hot a signal and results in unwanted artifacts. Putting everything in one channel gives a similar result. Its complicated and not in the manuals but if you go through these links you will see why. http://line6.com/support/topic/2033-pod-hd-500-500x-new-routing-schematics/ http://line6.com/support/topic/4586-pod-hd500-hd500x-input-settings-phase-issue-myth-and-facts-single-input-vs-both-inputs

I think the suggestion was for them to offer a downloadable strat model like 1.9 that you could choose to replace the current 2.0 strat. I could dig that. While they are at it a few other guitar models too... lol...

are you sending the Direct Out from the DT to the PA and the volume levels are wildly different between the DT and the Direct Out? That's just weird...

Connect your JTV to the computer either with the interface or through your POD. Fire up Line 6 Monkey and pick your JTV. Make sure you are logged in and select the firmware line. Choose to rollback and pick which version you want to rollback to. Done... I decided to do it myself this morning. After listening to the video comparisons I wanted to see for myself. I never spent much time with 1.9 before so didn't feel I was missing anything. I am surprised at the tonal differences and agree they seem better, fuller somehow. I know I lose out on Workbench HD but the truth is I was just playing around with it anyways. I will have to spend some time with this now but at least I know what it sounds like on my rig. I have to agree they definitely need to get the 2.2 version right with these tones... The different model volumes are much more balanced in 1.9 too.

I think the beauty of this system is there is no "proper" way to set anything other than to makes sure you are not inducing clipping at ant point in the chain. I can't say I have anywhere near the problems with volume leveling you are describing. Of course an F-Ball is louder than a Blackface, no question but between channel volume and drive settings I really have not had to make any big mixer adjustments, certainly not to the extent you are describing. I agree with you on the pre vs. full models with the DT. I have all my full amp patches set for the PA but I use the pre's with the DT. However, I understand what Crusty is saying. By setting the Power section the same for all models and using the full amps you can tailor your tone with the amp DEP. But that's what I got the DT for in the first place. You might want to try checking your signal levels by using meters in a DAW on your computer with the USB. It is much easier to get unity gain at each stage this way rather than just trusting your ears. You may see other ways to boost the strength of your quieter tones and you may be overdriving your louder ones. As to the mixer, your original question, it doesn't matter at all. The DT is a mono amp so unless you have 2 of them the stereo panning does nothing other than lowering the final volume. If that works for you,that's fine. I tend to center all my DT patches too.

USB-midi cables will work for that. FYI the real cheap ones have been known to have issues, mainly due to their drivers. I recommend the M-Audio Uno, about $40... Of course there are many other suitable options too. Just try to get one from a reputable manufacturer with solid driver support.

not sure what your issues are. I can go to my profile in Customtone, log in to Line6, and click on any of my tones. A new window opens up and you just click on any line you want to edit. I am using Firefox but it works with Chrome too. Make sure you are logged in when you get to your tones or you can't edit it.

the mixer only does what you tell it to do. If you keep them panned 100% left and right they stay separate into the post effects section. Depending on what you put there, they either stay separate with stereo effects or are blended 50/50 with a mono effect. You are only using one output? If it is a 1/4 out then both channels are being mixed to mono for the output. If you are only using one XLR you will only get that one channel since they do not mix to mono. I like using dual amps with different amps and also same amp with different cabs or mics. Very effective and can give a nice full tone especially in a stereo rig or to the PA. For live use to PA you would not want to stay 100/100 pan but maybe 50-34 left and right to ensure both sides of the house hear both channels. Remember that if you set up dual amps you will either have to set your inputs to Guitar/Variax and Same or place a mono block like a noise gate first to feed input 1 to both amps. It uses a lot of DSP but also forces me to be more disciplined in my use of FX blocks...

yep, bean HD was discontinued. Can't say for sure on your particular floorboard, you need to be certain by reading the manual for whatever you intend to buy. USB recording works great and your tunes will play along with your guitar to the monitors from the HD.

for what you are doing the bean HD is a great update. If you can find one, they should be at a pretty good price since they are discontinued. Personally, I like having the floor unit so the HD500 wins but that's up to you. The rack unit doesn't offer you much more other than ins and outs that may or may not be suitable for you. You still need a floor pedal to affect changes. All will work great with the Rokit 6's.

Just remember out of the POD the XLR is mic level and the 1/4 outs are line level so there is a signal strength difference. I bet out of the L2 is line level too.

When you put the new tubes in, check the bias. Turn it all off and swap the tubes and recheck the bias. If the hi/low volatage doesn't move with the tubes then the issue is probably in the amp. Do they bias out evenly with adjustments? If so that shouldn't be an issue either. Recheck the bias after a few hours playing just to see if anything is changing. Did you change the 12AX7 as well? It has a role in the power section even though its not a preamp tube. Are you certain you got the right fuse for the amp? I am sure you did all these things, just brainstorming a few things to be certain... If it keeps blowing tubes it needs a repair ticket...

take your XT Live outputs (Line level) straight into the Flextone III stereo effects return. That bypasses everything in the Flextone and it just acts like a power amp. You may still need a dummy jack into the front of the amp, I can't remember for sure. If you do, its just a 1/4 jack not connected to anything.

You can use HD Edit to assign the right midi control signal to the patch change FS so when you change patches it also switches amp channels. You will need to use the manuals and the Advanced Guide to get the right codes...

I don't actually own that unit but it can control 4 separate things so it should. Suggest you download the manual and read to be sure it does everything you need. Just depends on how you program the POD and what you tell it to do. Here is a link to a great reference on midi in Google Books... http://books.google.com/books?id=ZTWv1fAMm6MC&printsec=frontcover&dq=The+MIDI+Manual:+A+Practical+Guide+to+MIDI+in+the+Project+Studio&hl=en&sa=X&ei=u8oiVK6nDYGvyASr0oHADw&ved=0CC0Q6AEwAA#v=onepage&q&f=false

I just came across this link too... pretty good info on all things midi... http://books.google.com/books?id=QqHcAwAAQBAJ&pg=PA29&lpg=PA29&dq=MIDI+RESOLUTION+RELAY+CONTROLLER&source=bl&ots=CyMpIJw2JA&sig=1gBpy3xuMLqFcHhDT4vaIpwC5TU&hl=en&sa=X&ei=7sMiVJqYN8GTyAS8oYKgBA&ved=0CFQQ6AEwCA#v=onepage&q&f=false

from what I read here, and I really appreciate all the great input, its the cab's that separate the units (and of course the money). For $200 I am seriously considering the Logidy Epsi C but just haven't pulled the trigger yet. I honestly can't say that for me at least, I really need different cab options but as a total gear hound it just keeps pulling me under... If that gets me matched up to the AxeFX and keeps all the simplicity of a floor unit and the JTV/DT25 integration I can't see the need to ever spend AxeFX kind of money... Although as mentioned above, if I win the lottery I will be getting a ton of real amps, cabs and pedals just because... ;)

if your amp has no midi control built in you will need something like the link below to get the midi signal and make the channel switch. You can use HD Edit to assign the right midi control signal to the patch change FS so when you change patches it also switches amp channels. You will need to use the manuals and the Advanced Guide to get the right codes but it shouldn't be too difficult... http://www.zzounds.com/item--VOOCX

I would think so unless you have something programmed to happen.

if your amp has no midi control built in you will need something like the link below to get the midi signal and make the channel switch. You can use HD Edit to assign the right midi control signal to the patch change FS so when you change patches it also switches amp channels. You will need to use the manuals and the Advanced Guide to get the right codes but it shouldn't be too difficult... http://www.zzounds.com/item--VOOCX