radatats

yeah but he bought it used. who knows what the previous owner has loaded now...

yes, when you change topology, you are actually changing the loaded amp model and the class and pentode/triode settings will switch and light up to what is loaded. I strongly suggest you download the manual, reflash the firmware, and get DT Edit to see what is going on inside your DT. Then you can choose what amp/cab models you want at each topology position in each channel.

Class A/AB and topology are two separate and independent parameters. The class defines how the amp operates (10/25 watt DT-25, 25/50 watt DT-50) and the topology refers to the negative feedback loop (you will have to google it to learn more). The light stays for each paramter by itself. VOX AC30 is class AB, topo I. Not sure if you are using your amp standalone, in which case the topology switch chooses one of the four loaded amp models for each channel. You would have to use a 3rd party editor via midi to configure them. The editor can be found in the POD HD forum. If you use HD Edit even off line you can load an amp model and see what its default configuration is.

So I downloaded the app (no AMPLIFi yet) and pulled up a tone that looked interesting and emulated it with the HD500. I have to say while it didn't match up with models perfectly it came out pretty damn good... Interesting how the app has a compressor and eq after the amp and cab and I generally NEVER do that. I used the tube comp since the app has a dedicated comp and it worked really well... defininitely has my interest for the TT...

Oh dear, and he asked us so nicely too...

I agree it should be included but I am looking at this for the living room. I keep my dream rig in the basement studio and have nothing upstairs to practice on. This would fit the bill nicely and I can keep one of my other guitars (which I never play anymore) upstairs to use with it either with headphones or through the stereo.

No nothing like that. Just because it says Power User above my name doesn't mean I can't be a bucket head some times... Turns out it only happens when connected by USB so after further troubleshooting seems it was due to turning hardware monitoring off during a previous recording session... Lesson learned! Happy thanksgiving everyone!

The POD is level and the foam is cut perfectly to hold it in place. The switches are all at the right height and there is a raiser to the right for a second pedal. There is a large space behind the POD for other pedals, power strip, cord storage... I looked at building my own too and might save some dough buying the pieces separately but would have taken a lot of work to get something as nice and professional as this is... wasn't worth the effort in the end...

Well with all the snow the power went out last night and the POD turned off and back on again. The same no sound problem came back again too. Reflashed and it works great but now I don't want to turn it off again. Doesn't seem like a hardware malfunction if a reflash fixes it so kind of bummed right now... Long out of warranty so if it keeps on I will be looking at a 500X...

so I had an "anomaly" today... after playing this morning through L6 to the DT, I wanted to load some new FRFR patches. Everything went fine until time to play and... nothing. No sound from the 1/4 or the headphones. Same with my regular guitar and my JTV. Tuner shows activity but no sound on any patch or bank. System reset no help. Reflash no help. Now I am pissed. Roll back to 2.1, no help. Ok, lets try the L6 link to the DT. That works fine! WTF? So last resort reflash again up to 2.32 and what do you know? Back to normal, everything just as it should be... No idea what caused it... Maybe a bad patch... Oh well...

I got a Tarcase off eBay from Col's advice... very happy. Solid, well built lots of room, POD fits tight as it should. Perfect height and room for the second exp pedal and stomps if I want. Highly recommend...

The combo will work great and its plenty loud. You can also take the direct out from the DT to the board instead of micing the amp and it is much better... I really should have gotten the combo...

I recently tried the Behringer GMX212 which is almost a duplicate of the FM 212 DSP... I tried to like it but it was no contest with the DT25. The DT25 is sonically in a different league. I sent the GMX back. I have the head and a 2x12 cab but its a PITA to drag around. Still, the sound is amazing...

aha,... good point. So even more to the point, does the 400 respond to any midi commands at all, even if you could get them in by USB? I am looking at adding a Zoom MS-70 CDR to my board and it has no midi. Not even documented to work by USB either. However, I found this guy (link below) that has built his own FS box to send midi commands by USB to the pedal and it changes patches, etc. Pretty cool. I am working now to figure out how to change the regular midi out of the POD into USB midi to send to the MS-70. Bottom line is if you can get the midi signals in by USB, will the 400 respond like the Zoom does? I guess someone would have to test it out...

I don't have an iPad but it seems to me there are plenty of apps that can send midi commands. Pretty sure you could rig something to send midi commands to your POD to do patch changes and to turn effects on and off. You would have to program it yourself. http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/how-to-use-coremidi-for-music-production-on-an-ipad-or-iphone-ios/ http://line6.com/support/topic/10522-my-video-tutorial-on-midi/ What silverhead meant is there is no specific Line 6 app to do that.

If you want to reduce the latency, try to make as many things similar between your amp models as possible. For instance, topology, class, cab, and mic. Not always possible but the fewer things that are changing means the quicker the swap. As noted above, the expression pedal can also work well. Just set the channel volume on each amp to the same expression pedal with one set (Min-0,Max-whatever) and the other set to (Min-whatever, Max-0). The advantage here is you can also set a ton of other parameters to change with the same pedal such as delay times, reverb mix, compression levels, etc. Very flexible solution... You may even be able to use the expression pedal to go from clean to dirty using the same amp model. You can assign up to 50 different parameters to the pedal so you can have two completely different tones with just one pedal push...

I've been trying to get the pitch shifter to work well but its not easy. Still gets that tinny, thin sound no matter where I put it. Trying to do something like Satch on Searching from Is There Love in Space. Seems like it is even worse when I am running a JTV alt tuning through it as well. Maybe two sets of modelling just won't work... Then again, it might just be me... :huh:

The real question is why would you? The XLR signal is at mic level not line level like the 1/4 out so is not really suitable for insert to an amp or the FX loop. In addition, the XLR does not sum to mono like the 1/4 outs do so you may not get a full signal. However, as noted above it can be done...

After reading all these USB trouble posts I think I have a solution, at least for those that use a pedal board of some kind. I have mine in a hard case so this works fine for me. Get a 6" USB extender, link below, and mount it on your board. By firmly attaching the female end to your board (zip ties, cable mounts, clamps) you basically eliminate the constant connecting/disconnecting at the unit. Instead you just plug the extender into the POD one time and from then on you plug into the extender instead. The extender remains permanently connected to the POD and you no longer run the risk of damaging the POD by pulling on the connector. Easy preventive measure for a few bucks. Granted, we shouldn't have to do that in a perfect world but WTF? http://www.cablestogo.com/product/28070

First turn one amp on and the other off. Then go to the controllers tab in HD Edit and assign both amps to the same FS. Then when you press the FS it will switch from one to the other.

You need to uninstall Gearbox and the drivers completely. Then reinstall Gearbox and make sure that you DESELECT everything except the application itself, no drivers or any other stuff. When you open it now for the first time it will ask you if you want to act as if you have a product installed. Click yes and don't show this next time. Gearbox will work just fine without any hardware attached and you can open the l6t files to see how they are constructed.

Great job!

Try this... http://www.fullcompass.com/product/474570.html