stumblinman

My JJ's failed after a short while in catastrophic fashion. I went back to using EH as recommended. I used JJ's in every other amp I've ever owned with no issues, but I'm thinking the DT25 just doesn't like them

Seriously? That's funny.

I see you have posted in a couple different forums lately Joe. It's nice to see a Line 6 presence on the boards besides in the Live sound forum, which has quite a few posts by L6 employees. Thanks for popping in!

I think my HD500 PCB is actually labeled Pod X4

Mic choice has no impact when connected via L6 link to a DT amp for future reference. Cabs do, but mic emulation is only enabled in studio/direct mode, so that should help eliminate one variable. I messed with them a lot when I first got my Pod until I was told the same thing.

Your "a" button sounds damaged or stuck. Maybe some gunk or a shorted solder connection keeping it constantly "on". Warranty replacement sounds like your best option.

Yes, the Pod responds very well to pedals in front as well as in the FX loop.

Wow. Zero replies. Not a lot of pickup tinkerers here eh? Well, for the record, I like the alnico 2 magnets much better in these pickups. If you have some quality pickups lying around that just don't sound quite how you like, but they are close, try swapping for different magnets. It's a simple process that can bring lonely parts-drawer pickups back into the fold. Plus, it's fun to mod stuff.

I just noticed this. What did you mean?

I wonder how this would affect the DT25 which only has a PI tube.

If his knobs are near zero but not actually zeroed they could be moving. I have yet to hear back from him about this, and he didn't state where his knobs were parked. Switching presets fixes it, which tells me the L6 Link is working. Just spitballing here, but something must move to cause the Pod to go to amp parameters page. All good advice. Hopefully something here helps.

HNGD!

Any generic 2 button will work. Typical TRS plug. Update the head to firmware 2.0 and you can get just about any tones you will need for classic rock.

Hey, they DID put a power button on the new amplifi fx100 floorboard. Ideascale is a success!

If it goes to the amp parameters page that indicates a knob has moved. Knob jitter is always a culprit. Set all your Pod knobs to "0" except master volume and then change patches. Sometimes a knob will move just slightly and change a parameter, which sounds like it may be your volume or drive knob. Actually, run every knob up to 100% and back to 0 a couple times, then set them all except master volume to 0 and then change patches and see if that cures the issue. Good luck! I neglected to mention to do that on your amp as well. As it's probably an amp knob moving. Not enough coffee today, sorry. Set all amp knobs to 0 except master volume and reverb if you use your amp reverb instead of Pod. That should eliminate knob jitter.

Sounds about the same as Line 6 customer service. Generally works properly with odd bouts of random silence. /rimshot

Expect some hum. I have a DT25 and there's a small amount of hum. Hum and noise I categorize differently. Noise is a background hiss that may have crackles or pops as well. That is generally a tube issue or high gain noise that you hear while no notes are being played. Hum is a by-product of analog electrical circuits and in small but noticeable amounts is typical. It doesn't seem like what you are experiencing is out of the ordinary.

Looks like Ideascale is finally payin dividends. /rolleyes

I would probably try the P-90 JTV. Their humbuckers are muddy and not very articulate. The P-90's should be more punchy and clear. But with the tone comes the hum...

Were you not on beta for this one? Which experts were? I'd like to hear their take on it.

Nice of them to visit other forums...

If using 2 8 ohm loads, they each go into the A (4ohm single or 8 ohm pair) holes. One is the internal, the other external. Single 8 ohm goes into the B spots. 8 ohm single or 16 ohm pairs. It's actually labeled right below the connection jacks.

Probably more or less competing with the Fender Mustang Floor.

If you are limiting your choices arbitrarily, buy the PRS. It will always do what you ask of it. No firmware updates, software issues, or delay between pickup changes. It will simply be the guitar that you play instead of the guitar you tweak, ask about patches for, and buy proprietary cables for. I had an original Variax and recently bought and returned a JTV59. The JTV was built better than the original Variax, but the sound was still "fake" and "quacky". It took weeks of messing with it trying to make it sound decent, and that convinced me to return it. If you spend that much money and have to try every day to justify it and look past the flaws, it's not the guitar for you. Many people love them though. It really depends on your play style. Heavier hands will show the warts of guitar modeling more than light hands. I happen to like to dig into my strings, so the modeling doesn't work for me. Bottom line- it's a Line 6 forum. You will get mostly Variax votes here. Post this in the PRS forum and see the responses there. Never limit yourself to "this guitar or that guitar". Walk into a guitar store with your gear, and play everything on the wall, even the ones above your price range. You may find something else worth saving up for that you like even better.