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stumblinman
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Everything posted by stumblinman
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You have a sticky switch. Use some contact cleaner inside the 1 button and push it a lot. Then spray some more contact cleaner and do it again. This should clear up the stickiness and your switches will work normally. Make sure you have your Pod unplugged when you do this.
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Glad to hear it. ðŸ‘
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Aren't those just like the mic models, where they only matter in studio/direct mode?
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Another shot for me! Where you been Dean? I've been sober far too long! ;)
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I think after spending so much time on this board and seeing so many folks have the same issue with the same products I'd temper my expectations of what Line 6 is capable of. Modeling? Pretty good. Software interface and implementation? Meh...
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Each model is based on a channel. That is why there are multiple models of the same amp. There are 3 Soldano models to cover this, as well as a few amps having a "normal" and "bright" model. If you want to use the same amp model with different gains, you will have to set them up separately and "switch channels" between them.
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Sorry to hear that. I was hoping no news was good news. Please keep us updated, as this could be useful info for others down the road.
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I must say. For an unpaid (other than free gear) volunteer, the Experts here are actually quite helpful. If folks post the same questions without using the magical search tool, they may tire of responding. I don't hold this against them, as in my line of work I constantly get asked the same questions by folks too lazy to look it up themselves. I'm nowhere near a fanboy, and I appreciate that the Experts aren't either. They generally call it like it is. So if you received a "condescending" reply, chances are it took several posts to get to that point. Maybe reread your posts and see if your message came across a little less than civil in a strictly text format. Good luck, and I hope you stick around.
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if you double click the effect on the display, there is a mix parameter. Set that to 100% I'm not sure using HD Edit, as I do my stuff from the board itself. Hope this helps. It will be warbly, so don't count on it doing what a true pitch shifter does. It doesn't track polyphonically very well.
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Well said. I toyed with other amps and the 4cm and once I bought the DT25 I can't believe how much time I wasted trying other solutions. L6link works so well.
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The first video's effects generally sound more "studio eq'ed". They have a different shine to them. I liked both equally though. Same with the distortions in the second video. Neither one sounds better or worse. You can do exactly what you want with either one, but for far less money. Pretty fair comparisons. Thanks for posting these, fellows.
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Aww. I missed one.
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Never heard back if it was the right switch or not. Really curious about it. Let us know, mang!
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I can appreciate your "friends in the biz" and their experience, but I'll tend to listen to the guys who have built amps and speakers for almost a hundred years instead. I generally aim for what seems to be the norm in guitar amps at least, and have a speaker rated for roughly double my watts. Same for PA.
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If this is true, then why does every amp In the world come with higher wattage speakers than the amp wattage? Never seen one the other way around. Please clarify.
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So why are there so many issues with their USB stuff as well? Hell, even their chosen USB PORTS have issues (eg: HD series USB ports breaking) Not trying to lollipop in anyone's cornflakes, but call a spade a spade. Line 6 has issues with software, especially in the recent past.
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I lost my main fuse when a tube blew on my dt25. Sounds about right to me.
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Catastrophic failures are always scary. I've had a few slow fades where you knew what was coming and a few "pop snap silence" incidents, and those always freak me out.
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I'm with you on this one. Never owned a product that only plays nice in a very particular set of circumstances as often as L6 gear. "Don't use a hub, did you try a factory reset, did you save file to disk instead of live download, did you swap cables, try a different USB port even if you aren't using a hub, try safe mode, try reflashing again, try reflashing again, uninstall all drivers and reinstall them, try it again. Didn't work? You must be doing something wrong... "
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I wait for the day they come out with a modeler modeler. "I used to have a REAL Pod HD500, and that sounded nothing like this modeler profiler deluxe model does".
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There are two fuses. One below the power cord plug on the back of the amp, and another slightly above and to the right. Check both with a meter. They are designed to blow to prevent damage to other components. I hope for your sake they did their job since you didn't stop playing when you saw lightning in your tubes.
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Glad you found a solution.
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His tech probably has one for him, but is still repeatedly reflashing the firmware between attempts to level string volumes and lessen piezo quacking. I'm sure you'll see it next tour.
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That's quite possible. Coders are lazy and always try to find the quickest cut/paste method to program. Speaking from experience, so don't flame me lol. That's probably why they were able to fix it so fast. They already had the code.