spaceatl

Rock On!

No worries bro, that is what the forum is for...come and go when you can... you are very kind and Scotch donations are always welcome! :-) I am sure you will get this sorted out... All the best!

No worries, it's just the configuration that you happened to land on...It's a little unusual because Windows usually defaults to the POD when it's plugged in...However, I am thinking that perhaps powering up the POD already plugged in might have something to do with the default staying on your computer soundcard...Nonetheless, if you are wanting to hear your POD and your computer with the ability to record and overdub using the POD without latency and get some volume, you need to connect your speakers to the POD. When you get into Reaper, you want to make sure you select the POD as your recording and playback. You can do that in the Preferences in Reaper. btw you could also test your setup using a pair of headphones...

Yes, the POD is intended to behave as your computer audio interface (soundcard) when you are using it for recording/playback...Your computer will playback and record via the POD. The configuration you are trying to do using the onboard card for playback is cumbersome and generally makes overdubbing quite problematic...I would suggest you get a little 1/8" TRS to 1/4" TRS adapter and plug your speakers into the headphone jack of the POD.

ah ok...so you are using an extremely high latency configuration by doing that...You need to connect your speakers to the POD and select the HD 500X to be your soundcard (speakers). That is the only way to get zero latency hardware monitoring...Also, you volume issue should alleviate.

Check out the Line 6 Device applet in the control panel. There is a level there. I think there is also a USB volume on the HD iteself in the System Setup menu pages (hold View). But I am not sure if that would be the problem...but it could be. Quick question...What are you listening thru? Could it be that you are using the XLR outputs to drive speakers? The XLR outputs are NOT line level. Rather they are mic level to emulate the level or a real microphone.

unplug USB, power down HD500X, power up HD500X and let it boot and then plug in the USB while the HD500X is powered up. If you still have the problem, try reinstalling the driver.

Keep in mind that each chain is actually stereo. The pan controls on the mixer are actually balance controls. The mixer sums the stereo chains. The notion that the pan controls have to be panned hard Left and Right is actually a misnomer, sometimes. Depending on the type of effect you choose and where you place it on the chain(s), it is possible to make the chain or even the entire output mono. So just plug in the Left and Right outputs into your Crates, get the Advanced Guide and start tinkering. The parallel stereo chains are extremely powerful...but it takes a little time to get under all the different things you can do. Take some time and read the Advanced Guide. That will sharpen your questions I am sure.

leveling patches is a fairly simple process...But it takes some time and persistence to get it exactly right...It's always and ongoing thing, but eventually you learn how to do it. The first thing to remember is that the Master and Presence are NOT stored when you save a preset...So the first rule is that you find a patch to start with, set the Master about where it needs to go and DO NOT TOUCH THE MASTER VOLUME....As you go thru the patches, ADJUST ONLY THE CHANNEL VOLUME and store the patch...you will have to cycle thru your patches several times to check...eventually, you will get them leveled relative to each other...the presets are garbage in this regard.

Maybe the embedded link in the Monkey is wrong...I just clicked the downloads and selected 500X and the driver can be downloaded there.

One thing to keep in mind is that if you choose to use the looper post to play with yourself, you generally will have to level the patches to the looper...Especially stereo patches. The reason is that the looper is mono. If you use it post, it will sum what you record and plays it back mono and the summation always loses a little level. With Dual tone patches and stereo stuff, the cancellation can make it a bit worse...The looper is just a utility looper that was mainly intended to help you tweak your tone (pre) and a novelty performance looper at best. While it is fun to jam over yourself with it, you have to get under how the volume of your patches are going to change when using it post. Good luck...

I think there are two ways you could get something like that. Basically, a cab model is a low pass filter at it's core. Certainly there are a few other things going on, but you could try putting an EQ to fake a cab. An DSP expensive way to do it would be to use the Vintage PRE...It has a LPF and HPF...Set the HPF around 80Hz and the LPF around 5-6kHz...That will mimic the bandwidth response. Vintage Pre has a nice color to it, but it may not be what you want...just a work around to give something like a LIVE cab...Another way would be to inject cab modeling using something like a Hughes & Kettner Red Box in the FX Loop...But that would be sort of limited... What if you approached this from the other direction and put a band pass on your lead tone and left it in Combo Power Amp Mode? You could do it with the Vintage PRE as stated above or with the mid focus EQ...basically, the idea to take all the high junk out that the Studio Direct Mode is doing...That is a very common approach for lead tones anyway...just a thought.

Set the CAB to NO CAB and the MIC model no longer has an effect.

Maybe try a different USB port on the laptop?...I have an older Sony laptop with Win 10 and it will bluescreen with the HD when it is plugged into the USB 3.0 port...It only had one...The others are 2.0...never any issue on those...And this only started happening with 2010...never was in issue on Windows 8...But I don't think that port was doing USB 3.0 then...It definitely is now since the bios updates for Win 10...

Oh, a sonic maximizer. You don't need it bro. The following is what will happen if you add a BBE to your rig... "Just a word of warning. Maximizers are the guitar gear equivalent of crack. The experience one goes through is identical: 1. The first hit: You hook it up and initially think "Oh MY GOD this the greatest thing EVER DOOOOOD!!!!!111!!!!1! I've found THE tone!" 2. You start using on a regular basis: Buy some model BBE, hook to rig, engage it 100% of the time. Rewrite all your patches. 3. You try to get your friends hooked: Dude, check out my rig, this thing takes it over the top!!!. 4. You go into addiction/denial: Friends think your tone has gone to sh*t but you think it is totally awesome. You start talking msinformed BS about different sound frequencies traveling at different velocities (hint: violation of Newtonian physics). 5. There is an intervention: Friend let's you A/B his non-maximizer rig versus yours in live setting, Yours sounds like over-processed dung, his rocks. He tells you, as a Bro, the BBE must go. You realize the BBE is a band aid for guitar tone and not even a good one at that. 6. You go into rehab: Another "like new" BBE xx2 unit hits eBay. 7. Regret: I wasted a sh*tload of time futzing with my rig, patches, etc, and my tone isn't any better and I'm back to square one. I Wonder what GE-7 pedals are going for these days. Maybe you should avoid the whole thing. If you must post-process your modelling tone I would strongly suggest an EQ. It's much more versatile and will be long usable after the BBE is gone." - kdog circa 2005-6 I think...my favorite post ever about BBEs..

Interesting...I use two Alto TS212 subs and two TS212 tops for my bass rig when I am playing bass and need my own rig...just take a top when I am playing guitar. I have never used any of the built-in patches for anything. I roll my own and just the SVT model and the Fliptop sometimes for bass...The 8x10 cab sounds great but on some tones, no cab works better...just depends...For FX I don't use much, but the Vintage PRE works pretty nice for adding a touch of grind on a tone...You might need the model pack to get the SVT model...If you don't have it, the Fliptop works great. I never use the bassman as I don't really need that vibe for what I am doing now. Dual Tones are interesting for bass and I do that quite often so I can run a dry and an amp model at the same time...Mostly when I am recording...

connect the HD 1/4 out (Left or Right will sum the output mono) to the Bandit Power Amp In...In terms of the POD output settings, I would suggest starting with COMBO PWR AMP for the output mode...

yes, it may be knob jitter....try parking all of the knobs at zero, then recall patches...If it stops, probably the channel volume or drive knob jittering...

A lot of cost in the FULL models...Some take up nearly 1/2 of the DSP capability...every little augmentation costs...all I can really say...

I think the USB3 USB2 suggestion is the thing to look at...Check out your laptop manual to see which port(s) is designated USB2 only...My Sony tablet is like that...I have one USB 3 and when I use it, it works for several hours and then will BSOD...I just figured that out recently as I have used the same tablet for several years and had always used the right hand port...turns our the two ports on the left hand side, one is USB3 and the other is USB2....right hand is also USB2....anyhoo, just a thought...

Well, I would say 100% = 100%....The variance below that is in the LOG as it compares to the LINEAR taper...I agree with you...CLASS A models would be the master DEP at 100%...But because of how they really operate, there really shouldn't be a master DEP since they have no master volume in the real world...I find amp models to behave a lot like samples did on the early AKAI samplers before multi-sample stuff came along....basically, the behavior is fairly realistic in a nominal range...getting radical goes beyond what the real amp did or behaved...The tonestack is where I really notice it....radical EQ makes deviate a bit more IMO...The thing that makes the HD a bit difficult to get under is the sheer number of permutations when different cabs, mics, FX and such are added...couple in a different tonestack behavior on every amp model and it can make finding that nominal range challenging...but that is just my own opinion.

It's the taper of the Master pot correlated to the linear scale of the DEP parameter...50% Master DEP correlates to the actual pot being at 80% or 8...I think it was more like 7.5 but 8 is close enough and much higher than ALL real world experience I have with that amp...All I can tell you is that Karl was completely on target...Another thing to consider is that not all JCM800s are created equal.

Thank you for the correction hurghanico. I kept the HD400 around post beta for a couple of years and do not remember the nuances...Only that the defaults are not that great as has always been an issue up until the Helix. There are quite a few differences in the HD400 vs the 500, Desktop and PRO...The main thing is that the chain order is semi-fixed like the old XT...and a single chain only...The models are HD, but the approach is a little different than on an HD 500, Desktop or PRO... A good idea to check out what Karl has to say imo...

the defaults on some of the amp models are not good...The main thing to look at are the DEP (Deep Edit Parameters) on the amp and cab...Usually it's the Master parameter that is the main culprit...way too high most of the time...A real JCM800 sounds like crap dimed and the default is 100%...Then there is the RES LVL in the cab parms...basically, that's the FIZZ control...That is generally 0% on all of my patches...Usually, just getting the master DEP down to a realistic level and setting RES LVL to 0% gets most of the garbage out...I never really needed any additional EQ...Some other things that help are the HPF in the cab deps...some cabs have a ton of low end and getting that to 82 Hz for standard tuning really helps center the amp tonestack which changes how the mid works...This is different on every model and is quite close to the real amps, so you have to kinda approach each model cab combination a bit different...anyhoo, that's my 2 cents...

iRig PRO DUO is the one I keep hearing about from a few friends I have that work on an iPad...I think there is a midi only version also.