spaceatl

I use the HD Desktop and shortboard for bass. I love it! The SVT is mostly what I use. I generally use a dual patch with a FULL SVT with the 8x10 cab on one chain and the SVT PRE model with no cab on the other. freaking fantastic and saves my back. I record and and use it live.

You could make a proper passive summer (combiner) with a few resistors. However, you could just buy one and then the output channels would no longer fight with each other... https://www.amazon.com/Galaxy-Audio-JIBC-XLR-Combiner/dp/B00079OUNM/ref=asc_df_B00079OUNM/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312199306469&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3736067693555883922&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1015249&hvtargid=pla-569224398202&psc=1 However, you could put a dummer plug in one of the 1/4 main outs and force the summation internally. That affects the headphones and the XLRs.

GTR->HD500 GTR Input HD500 1/4" Main OUT (L or R) -> HT20 FX Loop RETURN IMPORTANT: Dummy plug in the HT20 instrument input. Make sure the HD500 is set for Line Level and the HT40 is also Line Level. I think that is +4 button on the back. As I recall, the HT20 Standby switch in built into the instrument input...basically, if you pull the HT20 input it goes to standby instead of having a conventional standby switch. To get around this, put a dummy plug in the instrument input and wire as indicated above. This is likely why you got no sound when you tried it.

Chrome wah first in the chain or second after the fast gate on patches that use a gate is what I do...It's what I do with the real stuff. kinda old school I suppose.

Sure, you could do that. You could also 4CM the preamps from your two combo amps and have a choice modeled PRE or real PRE...lots of options.

The master obviously affects the output of the HD500...My main point here was to let you know that the value (setting) of the master is NOT stored when you save your patch...So if you are changing the master level in tandem with trying to level your relative volume between patches, you might be fighting a losing battle...It is generally a good idea to park the master at a healthy level and not touch it or your monitoring volume whilst leveling patches.

toggle back and forth changing only the CHANNEL VOLUME until you get the patches leveled. However, it should be noted that properly leveled patches for stage use will NOT seem level when listened to on there own. The distortion will always seem a good bit louder...If you are using a distortion FX on a clean patch, then adjust the LVL of the distortion FX until correct...Keep in mind that the value of the Master volume is NOT stored.

Try the direct on the DT25 to feed the DAW. One of the best sounding directs they have ever made...of course this this means not using the HD400 as an audio interface.

Sure, you can "select" tones from a MK2 shortboard that is connected to an HD Pro. You need to make sure the HD Pro is in the correct fs mode.

IS the chorus stereo input? maybe your TRS jack is messed up? you can isolate the problem a bit by trying a known good insert cable in the FX loop without pedals....1/4 TRS -> [2] 1/4 TS...just jump the loop.

I do think there is something up with Windows 10, USB 3.0 and these HD PODs on some machines. I use a Sony VIAO i7 that is about 3-4 years old. It is super stable. However, about a year ago I started getting blue screens with my HD Desktop connected after about an hour. My machine has only 2 USB ports. bottom one is 2.0 only...top one is 2.0 and 3.0...I only get the blue screen if I use the bottom port. Completely stable on the top port. I figured this out when I got a 3.0 drive from a studio I record at sometimes and switched my normal routine to do some work on that drive...The drive will work fine on the 2.0 port, but it's a bit slower on transfers. These problems can be difficult to isolate and I agree with codamedias suggestions of Editing on the unit alone, Edit alone, trying a new cable. You really have to take a structured approach to troubleshooting this sort of problem as it can be a lot of things that cause it. A couple of suggestions I have for you in the meantime is to find out if you machine has a BIOS update available. Additionally, also find out if you chipset drivers are up to date. This will usually come from the manufacturer of your computer. However, if you have an Intel, ASUS etc motherboard, you can hunt down the drivers from them. Sometimes, manufacturers are a little behind on making their updates for the OEM boards they buy. The BIOS and chipset are the low level control for USB and there are issues in the firmware there sometimes...There are so many motherboards it is hard to say, but 3.0 was not without some pain when it first rolled around. Good luck.

IT's not an AMP model and not in that list...It's in the FX stomps...I think on the HD400 that's in the FX1 block, but I am not sure as I let mine go several years ago. It's possible that it isn't on the HD400...Mainly because it is a high DSP effect and there is no mic input in the HD400. just do not recall offhand.

The notes are hilarious....How many of you are putting an X on your forehead? LOL!

Did your output mode get changed from Studio Direct to something else?

Well, I would say start with an empty single amp patch with the amp set to NONE...Insure that the active input is GTR. Navigate to the amp model and insure that the channel volume is turned all the way up. This is the bypass volume. You will need this if you are wanting to run FX only. At this point the loop should be passing dry signal. AMP FX Send->GTR Input Left OUT->FX Return

sure you can do it like that if you want to. But basically, you would not really be able use much in terms of gain and filter stomps that tend to work better in front of the amp. That's the reason for running 4CM....If you were to put it in the loop only, I would recommend using the MIC input over the GTR input...With the trim all the way down it pads a bit more than the guitar input does...That is useful for the FX send of an Amp where it might be a little hot...

Yes, it is doable to setup patches for each of your guitars. If you choose to run thru your amp, you have the right idea. FX Return and put a mic on your cabinet or inject a RedBox on the speaker line. Run the POD in Stack Pwr Amp or Combo Pwr Amp mode. Whichever you like better...Or just set the Cabinet to None...depends on what you likes. If you have a tube amp, PRE models generally work a bit better...FULL models on cleaner amps. If you run direct to a PA, it would be a good idea to use amp sims and run in Studio Direct Mode...For monitoring a full range stage monitor would be all you really need. bring your own or use the house monitor if adequate.

found it. good luck! 4CM The HD POD Bean

You can do it. I did it years ago when the Desktop first arrived and I have a post on here some place. Even have a patch attached as I recall. Anyway, it is an extremely tweaky setup to do it...You will need an XLR->1/4 adapter so you can serialize the chains using the Mic input. turn the trim all the way down to start. There is enough padding in there to do it. The basic idea is that you setup the inputs as guitar and mic...make sure you pan the mixer hard left and right...You will need a dual amp patch for this...just set the amps to none...The bonus here is that you can actually use amp models too and bypass your preamp on a patch if you want...it's flexible. GTR -> GTR IN LEFT OUT->AMP IN AMP FX SEND->MIC IN RIGHT OUT->FX RETURN The problem with this setup is the Master on the POD...it sets both outputs at the same time...You have to find a nominal setting and then use the mixer to get the levels matched for hitting the preamp and the fx return...once you get that setup, then you basically have to leave the Master pinned...leveling patches takes a bit more time with these sort of patches as they are about as complex as it gets on the Desktop... I will try to find that post

I am kinda wondering if those inserts are front side only...If they are then you won't have a separate dry which is what I think you are trying to do...I have an an old EMU 1820 and just use outputs and inputs....However, how well that will work on your interface depends on if you can patch an input to an ouput with realtime monitoring. I suspect you can. Guitar in input 1...Output 3 to POD GTR input....LR Unbalanced outs or XLR outs to inputs 3 and 4...You will have to setup the patch in your interface to do this and I don't know how yours works...Bascially you have to assign input 1 to output 3....same thing on your track playback...it would always go to output 3....inputs 3 & 4 would just go to outputs 1 & 2 like everything else usually would.

codamedia has you covered on the input config. However, based on your pics, you are always using a single amp chain...Looks like the amp block and a verb or something at the end recombining the chains. What I meant by FULL DUAL PATH is that that you would select the amp block for Move and then press either the up or down arrow to split it. Basically, the mixer should be at the end of the chain...you will need two of everything...pan them hard left and right and you have to separate outputs.

Your thought is exactly what I would do...blank dual path and get the levels right.

If you are running a guitar and mic, I think two completely separate paths will give you better results. I often use my pod for scratch tracking two guitar players and the approach is basically the same...mixer panned hard left and right...amp is split into dual mode...It does mean you need two channels for output...even if that system was a single powered monitor with two inputs summed mono, you would get better results imo.

sure, route out the body and make it a fat strat. That's how I did my mahogany strat. I put some medium gain Dimarzio's in the bridge and neck with a stock Fender bridge pup in the middle and wired it 7 way...my do any tone guitar...

Yes, every amp model is a little different and has different volume potential. You will need to execute a "Volume Leveling" procedure. The main trick is to identify what you might call your goto patch...Get the master at a nice healthy level...now start going through you patches and adjust the channel volume only and save it...Do NOT touch your master volume during this process or you will likely have to start over...if you run out of room on the channel volume, you will need to back off the channel volume in the hotter models....you can also make up volume with the mixer for weaker amp models.