spaceatl

You might want to start with a blank (New Tone) patch and build it up. Nothing will be assigned to the expression unless you added volume pedal or make the assignment yourself. Depending on the patch you are using, it could be that previous owner assigned the channel volume parameter to the pedal. That is an often used approach for a post volume that saves an FX slot. But it's not obvious...you might have to look at each of the Blocks while moving the pedal to figure out what was done on the patch you are tinkering with...

So if this is actually POT JITTER, there are a couple of things to prevent it...One is the AVR as discussed. The other is park all of the programable pots at zero or max during performance. Jitter refers to the voltage variance going thru the pot...enough of a deviation from the stored value and the pot starts changing the value. pots are not the greatest AD converters and the voltage can dance around a little bit depending on the position, wear, dirt etc...couple in house voltage variations with a drive or channel volume sending bad position data periodically, and it can totally feel like a dropout...recalling the patch is the best recourse...parking the knobs generally alleviates it.

If you gig a lot, it's great protection to have...I am only guessing that you might be getting a reset...However, it could be almost anything in your signal chain. This is very common for digital signal processors on iffy venue power...If you plug all of your gear into a transformer based AVR (at least 2:1 rating) you can be sure voltage is stable and you will NEVER have a ground loop. One little phenom of a transformer based AVR is ground isolation. 2:1 rating just means if you have 500 watts worth of gear, use an AVR rated at least 1000 watts...Higher rating is always better.

I use a Tripp Lite AVR (LC1200) to prevent resets. I have seen it happen many many times. An AVR can prevent digital units like the HD from reseting when the voltage drops too low. Simple conditioners don't help with brown conditions. With the advent of class d power amps and LED lighting, this doesn't happen as much as it used too. But there are still some venues around with older gear and crummy power that will reset a POD on every kick drum hit.

Only thing I can think of would be to insure that you have the bios updated and chipset drivers updated...One thing you could look for in the bios is setting for USB...In some BIOS it is possible to change the version of the USB on the bios...if you have more than one root controller, there could be 2 settings. My old Sony is like that as it was a first generation USB3...so I only have one USB3 port...and my HD will crash after about an hour on that port...rock solid on the USB2 port...also Windows 10 64....Although I have had that exact issue since it had Windows 8...long time...However, I do not have connectivity issues...Only that USB3 port with HD will cause BSOD in about an hour.

I am not sure where I have seen Line 6 touting that the link will only work with their cables. It can work with a standard mic cable, but that is only for fairly short distances. They tell you what kind of cable to get. Line 6 providing a proper cable is a convenience IMO, and one usually pays a premium for that. AES/EBU, L6 Link L6 LINK provides easy digital audio connectivity between Helix and Line 6 StageSource monitors and/or DT-Series amplifiers. Alternatively, digitally connect Helix to your studio equipment via an AES/EBU (110-ohm XLR) cable.

Yes sir, I am SHURE. There is no isolation there. Becomes obvious running a dual tone patch to drive a conventional amp (one 1/4 out) and a house direct tone (one XLR out)...A dummy plug will be needed to keep the sum from happening even though only one 1/4 out is needed...If one uses a direct box instead, one would never notice this.

Not the way you are thinking. No that will not work...You have to create dual tone patch and pan each instrument you want hard L and R...basically, if you put the piezo on the A chain panned Left, then you can take the Left XLR to the mixer....configure the DT for the right output on chain B....use the DT25 XLR for the mixer...if you must use the 1/4 outs you muse have plugs in both as using only one will cause the HD to sum ALL outputs....XLR, 1/4 and headphone. good luck.

No one has done that. HD series doesn't support re-amping via USB.

not surprising at all. Just like with the real thing, too much generally will sound overly compressed and not feel right...turn sag down until it works I suppose.

A really easy way to do that would be to create a dual tone patch, hard panned where chain A is empty with no amp model, chain B is whatever you like. A is dry, B is whatever it is you are doing...you could just use the XLRs...that is if by dry you mean no amp, no fx...

weird. My power supply went bad several months ago...I suppose after close to 9 years of usage I can't really complain. :-)

Actually there is. If you program a button to enable/disable the AMP block, the amp model is effectively turned off, bypassed or whatever you want to call it. You can then set the bypass Volume to effectively use an alternative preamp....In tandem with the FX Loop block, this is useful in 4CM applications where a pre amp toggle is wanted.

It does what you are thinking. There is a threshold voltage change that will cause the POD to react to the voltage change in the potentiometer. However, what makes this a little tricky is that the pot voltage is converted into digital amplitude values. sometimes subs under a stage can be enough g-shock to create a voltage jitter in the pot and it will change to it located value...bad pots will start sending all kinds of crazy values. As a matter of course, a lot of long time Line 6 users learned long ago it is generally a best practice to park the knobs at zero or full during performance. Jitter is not as bad as it once was...It is generally worse on the amplifiers where g-shock is more of a factor....good luck.

only thing I can think of is maybe SetlistMaker is sending a bit more over midi than you are wanting it too...

not worries, maybe helps, maybe not...let us know if you figure something out.

Something else you can check. I have an older Sony VAIO Tap 20 that I use with my HD most of the time. It has a USB 3.0 and a USB 2.0 port....Keep in mind that this is nearly a first generation USB 3.0 motherboard as the SATA controller is type 2....But it's a 4 core i7 with 16GB of ram and 2TB SSD so it is still fast enough for what I need from it. Anyhoo, if I plug my HD into the USB 3.0 port it will bluescreen after several hours. HD on the 2.0 port can stay connected for days at a time with no issues...HD was designed as a USB 2.0 device and not all USB controllers are created equal...I would suggest trying to figure out if you have a 2.0 port and try that...

Sometimes crashes that occur after a few hours can be caused by power management settings on USB Controller. You can get at it from the Device Manager and settings can be in the Advanced Power Management Settings. Basically, you want to make sure the Power Management is not idling the Controller. Or at least eliminate it as a suspect. Other things to check: BIOS version and Chipset drivers for the motherboard are current...

Curious, it is not technically possible to delete a preset location. Do you mean that the preset location was initialized to a "New Tone" patch...basically a blank patch. A couple of thoughts... Are you 100% certain that you did not accidentally change set lists? Are you running with a PC connected with Edit running?

ASIO4All is not needed with HD Pods and that is likely part of the problem...That's a throwback to XT and Windows XP...HD has ASIO built-in...Works quite nicely for me. My machines switch sound devices automatically, I did not have to disable the onboard audio device...I only change Reaper to use HD for input and output.

I have been using HD on Windows since Windows 7 thru Windows 10 on several different machines (Sony VAIO, Lenovo, HP and home built). Blue screen is fairly rare for me. There are a couple of things to check. USB Cable...dirt in the connectors Power Management settings on USB. You can see this in the Device Manager. Sometimes there is a setting in the Advanced Power Management options. Insure that you have latest bios installed for the PC Insure you have latest chipset drivers for the PC Insure your Windows is up to date If this is a laptop, you generally want to connect on the non-hub side. This is usually the right side or the side with a single USB port. Line 6 gear often misbehaves on hub ports. Laptops is usually where power management issues show up.

Another option is to change the default font size. Increase it to large...This should increase the size of the application text without having to reduce resolution as much.

if you want it on everything, inject it in the HD Main out and the Power Amp In (FX Return) of the amp. good luck with that.

One thing to check...When you installed the driver, did you wait until the software asked you to plug in the POD...Not doing so can cause this problem. USB Cable - Perhaps something is up with the cable you are using...Insure the connectors are clean. New laptop - Have you checked to see if there is an update for the BIOS and/or updated chipset drivers? The IO for USB is controlled there and that could be a cause. Good luck

Something in a direct box form actor than might do what you need. If I recall, HRD is a stereo jack for conventional two button switch...Anyhoo, best of luck. http://midisolutions.com/proddfs.htm