spaceatl

WYPIWYG - What You Play Is What You Get. It is NOT a quantizing looper with midi synch of anykind...You need a performance looper (like BOSS) to do that sorta stuff...The HD Looper is a basic utility looper that is more of a novelty for performance (What you are trying to do will never work reliably). It is more useful as a tweaking tool where you set it pre and use it to match volumes and put finishing touches on patches.

Well, once we get Quantum Computers working, then we will hear what we played before we played it and have the opposite problem. :blink:

The trick is to use the "Secret MIDI Controller" Karl.... ;) All Weathermen are accurate, few are precise...My SPX90 has PC mapping...I have never understood why Line 6 has never bothered to implement a feature that has been pretty much a standard since the 1980s...wierd...I have biotched about this more times that I can count....but might as well pile on... :o

You could also save an FX Slot by assigning the amp model channel volume to the expression pedal...post FX stay on...etc...

+1 on the FX Loop Boost....I used that trick with the HD400 also as it is a bit more limited than the 500...I did find on cleaner tones, putting it in front of the model was helpful...behind it for the more saturated tones...

I just have normal human being nuts... :D

The tuner threads always give me a chuckle....Especially the posts where folks claim the HD tuner is not precise enough...If that was really the case, then the person claiming that really does not need a tuner anyway...just get a fork and be done with it already... If you are tired of fighting the intonation imperfections that all electric guitars with conventional necks suffer from, get one of these crazy necks and put your tuning troubles to bed... http://www.truetemperament.com

Sorry, when I originally read your post I did not see the video link...Right now I am on a network that blocks it, but can take a listen later on... meanwhile, horrific feedback can come from a lot of places...Does this feedback happen the same way with another guitar?

The polarity is on the PSU...I am pretty certain that it is the same polarity as BOSS is. The reason I say that is that I was using an M-5 a year or so back in my BOSS BCB-60 and ran the M-5 off the BOSS PSU....M-5 uses the same PSU although its current draw is much lower....

A couple of things you need to try I think... You need to turn the "Bypass Volume" to 0 on each amp model....You can only set this when the amp model is disabled....Once you do this, you will likely need to rebalance the channel vol when the amp is enabled... One suggestion I have is that you try using the PRE versions of the amp models you are using...Since you have a nice tube power amp a FULL model is kinda overkill IMHO and you get a bit more DSP for other things too...

I have not had this problem because I use an AVR on my input power for my gear. transformers isolate that garbage voltage....Even when I was playing on Mars last week, I did not have a "Marsing" problem... :D

Yea, I know what you are talking about...Changing patches to go to a lead doesn't work all that well with the HD400 alone...When I was using it, I 4CM some pedals into my HD400 since it is lacking a bit in the FX...mainly gain stomps...DM-3 and FL2 in the loop...This way I could stay on the same patch for a lead...basically when a smooth transition is needed, you really can't change patches... This is one of those, "...hey Doc, it hurts when I do this..." sort of things...you just have to avoid it...when a smooth patch transition is needed, you just have to learn to work around it with a 400 and I think a little outboard gear helps... There are a couple of ways to get a lead boost without adding pedals and keeping on the same patch....This assumes basic rock where you might have a crunchy brown rhythm tone and need a little more for the lead...if you aren't using the FX Loop, you can short it with a little patch cord (Left send to Left return)...depending on the tone you have you can set the loop to be PRE(drive amp harder like a screamer), POST (clean boost) and use the Send level to adjust the boost level...FX Loop switch becomes a boost...You could even stick a whole preamp in there and change it POST and switch to a whole different tone...The other thing you can use is the Volume Pedal....set the min to something like 70% and the max to 100%...turns it into a booster...set the volume pedal pre or post depending on the boost you need... I use the HD Desktop most of the time now and still try to limit changing patches within a song...but then I can morph a Soldano crunch channel from the clean to dirty with that modeler...You can crossfade two amps in the same patch if you want to....You can't do that on a 400...I would say that maybe you are ready to move up...

As long as the HD500 amp block is enabled, the chain order is exactly as it looks i the HD500...

WYSIWYG in terms of the chain in the HD500....The DT25 FX Loop is after the HD500 chain...So effects are where-ever the are relative to the amp block in the HD500...audio is one way in the link...

I know I will get in trouble for this, but here is the HD Main board Schematic. You "trained, experienced" electronic techs should be able to figure out the power amp section as with any tube amp, when you turn them upside down they all look like sisters...

oh great...another "true bypass" regurgitation....I think I just threw up in my mouth a little bit... :ph34r:

Bias being out of whack just might give you more xover distortion in class AB. Won't hurt anything but could compromise tone a bit. The bias adjustment has no meaning when the amp is running in class A. Did you look for an internal fuse?

Make sure the Mode is PRESET....Sounds like you are in STOMP mode....

I am not 100% certain as I have yet to open up my DT25 head, but the Spider Valves have a plate fuse located on the power amp PCB that requires pulling the chassis in order to change...heater fuse is also located similarly...These are in addition to the read panel protection fuse....My SV MK2 blew a power tube shortly after arriving in Atlanta from LA and it took the plate fuse with it....Anyway, the symptoms sound similar...amp fires up and the heaters glow, but no sound because the plates might not be firing up...

My first guess would be the HBOD...The little I know about those is they are really designed to be out front and might have some drag compensation for a passive guitar...I know the MXR is 1M input...So I would say start with the MXR alone and start adding pedals in until you find the culprit.

What are your pedals exactly? Are you sure that you don't have some pedal in there with a 300 ohm input impedance? That would do it...

This is one of those things that I don't like...My old Yamaha SPXs all have PC midi mapping built in...Anyway, there is a little box that could give you the mapping you seek...a little pricey, but fairly compact for problems like this...I like this one because it is about the size of a direct box and you can customize it to do a sequence of anything (CC, PC, etc) based on any midi data event... http://www.midisolutions.com/prodepp.htm

kdog, I thought you were waiting for the Sonic Maximizer model? :D

arislaf is spot on... DSP chips are a different animal than a PC CPU...They are very specialized and every revision of the chip generally has instruction set revisions...This is NOT a PC. It is an embedded device and the firmware is the OS among other very specialized things. There is no hardware abstraction layer like there is in Unix (Apple) or Windows and is NOT plug n' play like you guys seem to be assuming...What you think of as an OS is extremely lightweight because you do not have the overhead that you have in a typical PC CPU...because these are embedded devices...Not the same at all...

An HD Desktop with a Line System Link would float my boat...or at least midi ports...