spaceatl

Yes, presence is 100% analog in the SV. Parking knobs it for digital jitter for the pots that convert digital. Does not apply to the presence or master volume pots. There is a little harness that runs from the power amp board to the control board that carries the master volume and the presence signals to the front panel pots...tiny molex headers...You will have to forgive me as it has been several years since I did a major modification on my SV MK1...But anyway, it could be that that the little header pins have become oxidized....Pretty easy to unplug the header, add some contact cleaner and plug it back in. If that doesn't bring it back, I would suspect a dead cap...That is all there is to a presence knob...

If you want to save some DSP, put the cursor on the amp, double click MOVE and assign EXP to the Channel Volume parameter....Be sure to note your channel volume precentage setting and set the MAX to be the same value...

4 years is quite good lifetime for power tubes...always better to change them before they blow.

I ran a bunch of Boss pedals with my HD400 for a while...The routing in the HD400 is nothing like the 500...it the old PRE/POST setup that Line 6 always used. I had some in front and used the loop for my old Flanger and DM3... Since everything you have is basically what I would call PRE, I think you have a good approach...However, you could put them into the FX Loop of the 400 and be able to turn all of it ON/OFF from the HD400 Fx Loop switch...just set the FX Loop PRE...and use the send level to get things balanced...or use it for a boost... HD400 FXLoop send->TC Polytune > Dunlop Clasic WAH > Boss Distruction DS2 > MXR EP-101(ECHOPLEX PREAMP)->HD 400 FX Loop Return. The send still works when the loop is switched off, so your tuner should still work...

DT amplifiers are class switching. They can change from Class A to Class AB. The SV and a Class AB amplifier. In order for the DT amplifier to support both classes, it has much larger transformers than the SV does. Lots of internal high voltage relays to support this...It also switches between pentode and triode modes...This is all analog switching in the power section...Simply put, big transformers and high voltage analog switching make it more expensive.

I am not sure that is correct as it's a balance type pot that affects both test points...The idea is the get each tube as close to match as possible using the test point...Getting strange mv readings could mean a resistor out of tolerance...It's not the same as injecting and reading real current, but it is good enough... Of course, the bias pot has no effect when the amp is running Class A...The bias only affects Class AB and it needs to be in that mode when adjusting...If you never run Class AB, then there is no need to adjust the bias.

If I am understanding your post correctly, if you are expecting the volume to remain constant when changing the class on the same preset, that is not going to work...You can get a Class A and Class AB patch to be the same relative volume. If the amplifier is running fairly loud, there is a less of a pop when switching class like that between patches...The louder you run the amplifier, the closer the AB mode gets to running class a and you get less pop...Class A (Single Ended) and Class AB (push pull) are pretty different...and the voltage swings are pretty huge...try to stay in the same mode for performance if you are running the amp at a low level and changing patches...You can get away with it at higher volumes...but it sounds like you might have a quieter stage...An attenuator might be somethign to try...but switch classes is radical from the power amp operation standpoint. It takes a second or two for the amplifier to stablize when changing classes. If you are really wanting to switch from a Fender to a Vox, why not run the AC30 patch with the actual correct class...An AC30 is actually a class AB amplifier...Lots of people think it is class A, but it isn't...It's an AB with a hot bias...just a thought...

There are two fuses inside on the amplifier board...One is for the heaters and the other is for the plates...Last time my mark II blew a power tube it took the plate fuse with it...fuses on the back were fine...If you are not seeing the heaters, it could be the heater fuse, but I tend to think it would be rare that one would blow...

Just an FYI...A mono 1/4 switch will work fine for channel switching channels only on the DT25...I have one an old little mono peavey footswitch...However, a TRS two button switch will allow you to turn the reverb on and off also...I use the same mono switch on my DT50 and DT25...works fine for switching channels...DT50 does not have the reverb ability as I recall....Dang has it really been that long?

Actually, the 1/4" outs are balanced on the HD POD....You have to use unbalanced cables when you use it with unbalanced devices. In terms of the XLR, all you need is an XLR to mono 1/4"...stick with unbalanced cables and the XLR=>1/4 mono adapter and you will be fine....I have read those threads too and the folks that tout balanced as some how being better than unbalanced really have no clue what they are talking about...That equates to the Guitar Center dude that tells you an amplifier is Class A, so it must be good...good luck...

I like the Soldano Clean model...Probably my favorite clean model out of the bunch...Another one I like a lot for some cleans is the Park 75 model...That one will do perfect AC/DC tone also, but might a little push depending on the guitar as it is a low gain amp model...

+1 on the Peterson Strobe tuner...works great on iPhone.

hey there....cool you got it working...It's a very tweaky setup. If the POD had a concentric master (separate left and right) it would really help getting the level just right...It can be done as is, just tweaky and lots of cables...

hmmm, strange indeed....But I have actually seen something similar happen on my Spider Valve MK1, MK2, DT50, DT25, POD HD and HD400. Not for the duration you seem to have experienced...just intentional testing on my part at a venue I was frequenting during those beta days that is notorious for >40 volt drops in the house power and sustained drops also. The tests have varied over the years but always at the end of sound check when I take my rig off my AVR power supply that keeps it in check...power up during openers set...My MK1 preamp would not start on house power when lights were fulll tilt...horrible power...I have loaned my AVR to many times to guys having trouble like this at gigs...99% of the time it solves it...From ground loops (bonus of isolating your power with a tranny...no such thing as a ground loop on the house power since the tranny fully isolates your rig) When the lights get going with the PA the voltage can get low enough that the DSP board shuts down...and even stay low enough it will not start....beer coolers are great at this too... tube power amps are not bothered by brown voltage conditions so much (only they tend to run hotter...not so good for hybrids), but the digital part of the amp is bother by unstable voltage...Samething with the 9VDC supply for the HD...input voltage gets low enough, DSP shuts down...gets on the edge and things can start getting flashy. I am old guy and have beeen around a bit...House power is better these days than 20-30 years ago, but a voltage drop has been making digital stuff reset or shut down since the SPX90 in the early 80s...If you gig on digital gear without an AVR on your rig, you are asking for trouble...DT amplifiers are digital preamps...nuff said...power conditioners are NOT the same thing...I have said enough...[stepping down of the soap box now]...best of luck...

The output mode is global...So you get stuck when you use the link since the mode will be combo pwr amp or stack pwr amp depending on the model you have...So if you need cab emulation on the HD LR outs to pull that off when you using the link with a DT50...There's a workaround, but you need more gear to do it because I do not think there would ever be an update that would allow multiple output modes...I don't know this, but it's my best guess... You could put a couple of Hughes & Kettner Red Box DIs on the LR outputs and that should give something a little more direct friendly...Behringer makes a decent copy of this and it's a bit less expensive... http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/RedBox5?device=c&network=g&matchtype=&gclid=CMbJ6ceZz74CFepAMgodHG0A-A

If you are digging your tone and simply want a decent direct approximation, I think the easiest thing to do is inject a DI on the speaker line...but not just any DI... http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/RedBox5/ Behringer's copy of the red box is actually pretty decent, but the H&K is the original...Palmer boxes are pretty good too...

I have a DT25 head/cab and a DT50 112....Overall, the DT50 is a better sounding amp to me...Better feeling too... It's the clean tones that suffer on a DT25 when you compare it directly to a dt50....If you like Fender spank, the DT25 falls short because it is way under powered for that...Even the DT50 is under powered...But the EL34s are a little better than EL84s when trying to mimic what's really a 6L6...

Been there. done that...Sure, that functions...But it did not work well for me at all...You will hardly hear, much less feel, the cab because the internal speaker will be doing most of the work...I think you meant "the second 4 ohm jack"...anyhoo...That is why I suggest you replace the DT50 internal speaker with a 16 ohm...You could use all 8 ohm speakers, but then you have to put an Autoformer in the speakerline to double the load (2.15 ohms) to a more acceptable 5.3 ohms...I did that with my SV MK1...works fine and the cone volumes are balanced. The problem with that approach is that the internal speaker gets 50% of the power and the two speakers in the cab get 25% each...The difference in cone volume is very apparent if you use speakers with the same SPL rating....However, if you choose cab speakers that have about a +3 db advantage the volume balances out a little better...What you will find if you ever actually try this is that having an internal speaker with slightly less volume than the cab speakers sounds and feels better when you are standing in front of it....If you have half the power going to the internal, then the cab does nothing and since the combo is generally closer to your ears you will wonder if the cab is doing anything at all...

I have been running that exact setup with my DT50 since before they were released to the public and my SV MK1 and MK2 amplifiers also (both are 112 combos).... To do it, you need to reload the DT50 with a 16 ohm speaker and your 2x12 should also be loaded with 16 ohm speakers in parallel...The 8 ohm cab and 16 ohm internal in parallel make for a 5.3 ohm total load...just fine for the 4 ohm tap. I am using Jenson Jet Tornados...

I did something like that with my HD Desktop to 4CM the POD into an amp since the Desktop doesn't have an FX-loop....It's called Serializing the Chains...The problem I had with this approach is that the Master doesn't have discrete control of the Left and Right 1/4 Analog Ouput Level...While it is possible to find a setting that works and use the mixer levels to tidy up, I found it to be a tempermental setup...If the master was a concentric pot, it would work a lot better I think... here is the original thread....I think there is a patch there too... http://line6.com/support/topic/2177-4-cm-the-hd-pod-bean-oh-yes-this-works/

The bean doesn't have a pad switch like the 500s do...Something has to be up with your wiring, the pups themselves or the preamps. If you have a passive guitar that is quiet, then most likely there is nothing wrong with the HD input...noise floor on passives is higher...Anyhoo, you could have a bad filter cap in the EMG setup...Basically, an EMG wired guitar will have a TRS jack that basically switches the preamps on and off. There is a filter cap in the power circuit to prevent DC from going down the signal line...that could make the input codec converter freak a bit...But I tend to thing it would be a weird sort of noise...or it would just cut out altogether...One question, if you disconnect the POD USB from your Mac and use headphones only, does the noise go away?

...Reaper is not free bro...

The HD power is 9VDC output. Make certain that you are not using the AC output adapter that was used on the previous generation of PODs(XT, X3 etc...)...Basically, as long as you have a 9VDC supply that is around 3A you will be fine...just be certain you get the polarity right...

You program the FS buttons the same way...I use the HD desktop with a MK1 or MK2 shortboard (depending on my mood)...shortboards are just dumb controllers...they only do what the unit connected to them is programmed with...If you are or in FS4 or FS8 mode is determined by the HD, not the SB...

Yes, my HD desktop works with my mk1 shortboard...I actually prefer it over the mk2...nice big green display....The current firmware actually has three models (channels) of the Soldano 100...Clean, Crunch and Overdrive...XT was missing the Clean and Crunch models...