spaceatl

Thanks...no worries...So my next question would be; Have you tried it using an different computer altogether? Seems like you said you tried known good cable with other working devices...Using another PC basically eliminates the PC as the cause and if you get the same error, it points to something being wrong with the POD...I say return it and get a new one if the retailer you used offers that (GC is 30 days I think)...Otherwise, it really seems like the unit might need service...might be a defective port or some such... There is another thing that came to mind, but this is a bit of a reach...This issue is almost exactly like one I saw years back with the Flextone III XL using a midi interface...specifically an Edirol...By default, it would be set to echo data...The data over USB on the POD is basically midi over USB...It's serial data, so is midi...The echo messes up the stream and causes the failure immediately...Again, this would be a reach if there is something in the USB config that is messing with bulk mode on your PC's USB...However, a very easy way to test that would be to just print a doc to a USB printer or save a file to USB jump drive...Both use bulk mode...same mode the firmware burn uses... I still think you should exchange it if you can...do over...good luck to you...

Logo hot loop is usually solved by resetting the global settings (power up holding D pad down)...that's the safe mode for re-flashing also...This has been suggested a few times on the thread but it is not clear to me if you have actually tried that or not...The pod will not update while it is in a logo loop...

Well, if you are recording direct, then you need to put the pod in studio direct mode....the other modes are for use with real guitar amps or power amps...DTs...The mic models are disabled in the other modes...ALL of the outputs take on the selected output mode...so if you are trying to record direct AND feed a real guitar amp using one of the combo or stack modes, the direct will sound like fuzzy a$$ while the amp sounds right...HD500 can't do dual output modes...not sure if this is your issue or not...good luck to you..

You post made me think that I do it a completely different way...Thought I would share...blending amps does not have to be summed...Although that is simple to do, the phasing can be a nightmare as folks have already pointed out...You can run amp models in series...run a PRE (no cab) into a FULL model (cab & mic) for a direct tone...PRE into PRE...(no cab, no mic into real guitar power amp and cab)...place the FX so the PREs are where you want in the chain...It looks a little skewy but I quite like it and gives a little more control on a mono rig much like I would with real gear...one preamp into another? sure, that makes sense to me...That's exactly what a Mesa Boogie Mark I is... you can chain dual amps in series...just using a PRE as an EQ is nice for shaping and give some neat character...using one as a boost is pretty cool...Anyway, I have done this with my HD Desktop...A bit of a pain with that since there is no FX loop and an adapter is needed. Cake on a 500... On the Desktop I run left output back to the Mic input (adapted) and turn the trim all the way down...setup the input as guitar and second input as mic...mixer A hard left; mixer B hard right...right output goes to power amp in on guitar amp...I prefer my SVs for this setup as the master works unlike the DTs...getting it just right is challenging since the analog master L and R are coupled...Dual analog masters would be so cool...concentric pot would be cool...but it can be worked around... On a 500 this is cake as no adapter is needed...run left out to aux in and setup the inputs and mixer accordingly...you could use the FX loop on a 500 to serialize and have better control on the out to aux level so it remains fixed and the master volume works as expected...Desktop needs external master volume as there is simply less control on that device... I have been hoping for a tad more DSP so I could run this way and really considering an X unit...really need a tad bit more for patches I use...

USB hubs can be internal....Generally, front ports are on a hub...rear ports are using on a root controller... One of the things that happens to some folks is not disconnecting during the driver installation...That can make things whacked, but I have never had to uninstall to fix it...just install the driver with nothing connected...The Edit installer has the driver in it also...Sometimes the driver in the Edit installer is out of synch with the driver install that is packaged alone... I suggest flashing in safe mode...If it bricks, then you needed a new unit anyway... EDIT: Another thought...Have you checked your chipset drivers? The problem can be on the PC side and generally the chipset has that stuff...lower than that would be BIOS firmware...might be worth checking that the MB drivers are all up to date...

I am just going to step back and suggest you double check that the output mode is studio direct...your description - "...it has a horrible fuzz, clipping/distorted sound on top of it, which is completely ruining the tone!..." echoes of the output mode being something other than studio direct...Or you are doing something crazy like running direct with No Cab and forgot to turn on your external IR. That is, if you are into such things... Hard to guess without a clip...

No may about it....Zap is correct. Flextone III XL is X generation (XT and X3)...Selected Models....Spider IV is a different subset of models from the same generation...The only devices that use HD models are the HD PODS and the DT amplifiers....They also utilize M series FX which quite a bit better than the X gen stuff....

POD HD....yea...amp models and FX are quite a bit better than what you have in the Spider....Newer generation of modeling... The shortboard is nothing more than a controller...works with a lot of different Line 6 amps and PODs...

My suggestion: GTR->PW-10->HD500 GTR Input HD500 FX Send->CE-2->DD-7->HD500 FX Return Add an FX Loop to the chain and assign a button to the FX loop. and RTM

+1....Try turning the mic trim all the way down...gets rid of the extra hiss...if you are not using a mic...

The reason you do not understand is that it is one of those things that is easy to say...spillover...nuff said....well, that isn't the reality...if it really was that easy, we would have patch spill...

Quick, Somebody better tell the pros to stop using Line 6 gear...You are not the first person to make a stupid assertion like that...and you will not be the last. It doesn't mean you are stupid...just your assertion is.

Is that a question? Seems you have a preconceived notion.... Conventional guitar amplifiers do not have tweeters...The are not full range....The full range notion is when cab and mic modeling....That is the sound of a mic on an amp....If that is your game you need to get a POD and a keyboard amp or something like that....SV is a guitar amp bro...loaded with a V30....It's a combo amp....It's class AB tube power amp with a digital preamp on the front....The preamp is modeled...The XLR out is full range...Again, it's a guitar amp...

Your best bet would be to rollback the firmware...Amp models sound better anyway... If that isn't fast enough for you, time to move on to something else I think...

A lot of USB interfaces have cables marked for where they go, not what they are....UNO is like this....If you look at the UNO cable carefully, it is marked "TO MIDI IN" and "TO MIDI OUT"....It makes sense...but a little counter intuitive to how midi is usually marked...

Once you configure your computer, switching sound cards should be fairly seamless...I have done that on Win 7 and XP laptops for quick and dirty recording....My DAW has an EMU interface so I never use a POD as a soundcard on that box...

I have a DT50 112 and a DT25 head & cab...Amps are basically the same...If had to choose, it would keep the DT50. Mainly because I have determined that I prefer the vibe of EL34s over EL84s...That difference is subtle...Additionally, sometimes I like to get that Twin spank vibe where the dynamics are jumping out of the amp and grabbing me around the neck...DT25 can't do that...It's simply too underpowered to match the clean dynamics of a DT50....That isn't as important to some players...In terms of playing with a band, I find the DT25 a little underpowered for clean tones....

Guitar Center dweebs upgrading DSP chips...Now that is funny! :P

oh yea...the patch converter....I have never had the need for that app...In terms of using two interfaces at the same time, you can do that on a Mac...That will not work on Windows as far as I know...

I am guessing the person means output power? The specified output power is 40 watts (Sovtek 5881s 36ma bias)...I think it is a bit higher than that...The actual output power depends on the type of tubes you use and where you set the bias. 6L6 is going to be closer to 60 watts...You have to measure the amp to know exactly...

plug the POD into your PC with a USB cable...Then you have to plug your speakers using the LR outs or SPDIF from the pod....Once you do that, you will hear everything from your computer through the POD....POD hd converter? what is that? never heard of it...

Yes. Currently using Trippe Lite LC-1200...Much less $$ than a Furman AR-15 or whatever the current model is...The Furman AVRs are more precise, but you pay for that...

If you perform with Line 6 gear and do not use an AVR, then resets can and will eventually occur...Power Conditioner is not enough...I have seen this firsthand...Not with my gear...Never leave home without an AVR...Not using an AVR is sorta like doing a groupie bareback...nuff said...

the issue has to do with the channel volume...The workaround is channel volumes are above 60% or higher...This makes leveling the patches a bit difficult and the master gets really touchy...If that doesn't work for you then you might have to move on to something else.