spaceatl

buzzy...hmmm....I wonder if you might be using balanced cables (TRS)...If you are using TRS cables, that is fine in terms of the POD HD Desktops 1/4 outs...However, if you are using the 1/4 inputs on the Tascam and they happen to be unbalanced, then you usually end up with a somewhat weak and noisy signal...just a guess, but maybe try using ordinary guitar cables (TS)...Two other possible options...Try using a 1/4TRS (headphone plug) to two 1/4 TS and use the headphone out to drive the inputs to the Tascam...headphone amps are basically high power line level drivers. Another option that someone has already suggested is using the SPDIF out...If the Tascam has an SPDIF input, this would give you the best quality recording since you completely remove the DAC(POD) and the ADC (Tascam) taking two conversions out of the recording chain...

right...the combo gets half the power and the cab gets the other half...where the combo speaker gets around 12 watts, each speakers in the cab is seeing around 4-5 watts... You would likely get a bit better cone volume match if you changed the combo to a 16 ohm speaker...parallel combined load with your 8 ohm cab is about 5.3 ohms...no problem on the 4 ohm tap. I have been running my SV MK1, MK2, DT50 and DT25 with a 5.3 ohm load for years...however, I do it but using a 212 cab loaded with 16 ohm speakers...all my 112 combos have 16 ohm speakers...Three 16 ohm speakers in parallel is 5.3 ohms...cone volume is balanced...In your case, a 16 ohm speaker with an SPL rating that is -3db less than Vintage 30s would likely get pretty close...

I think the GH90 is ok...Not really neutral IMHO..much better than most Celestions I have heard. :lol: I am an old Mark series fan so I tend to prefer higher rated speakers (ala EV or JBL) in my rigs...higher ratings nearly always means more neutral...EV12L is a great speaker but just too freakin' heavy...I am really impressed with Jenson Jet Tornados lately and @ 4.5 lbs they are a bit lighter and easier on my back...

If it were easy to have great tone, everyone would have great tone....And at that exact moment when everyone has great tone, no one has great tone... ;)

I just use both...I have a handful of pedals...Mostly BOSS compacts...They work quite well with the amp models. In terms of something basic like a tube screamer where I like to push the preamp with cleaner level, analog is tops...

Changed the speaker in my DT50112 to a Jenson Jet Tornado...Typically, I prefer a 112 combo on a 212 cabinet...This means three 16 ohm speakers in parallel running a 5.3 ohm load...I am happy with my results. When rehearsing I often use my DT25 head with a 212 cab...sometimes the stock cab...That speaker has also been changed...Nothing special about the stock speakers...GH-90s are decent Celestion OEM speakers, but not spectacular...I am not a Celestion fan in general, so my opinion is likely biased anyway.

Not sure if you have an UNO or not...anyhoo. One issue I know of with the UNO...This is a very old issue...If you load the driver from the CD that came with the UNO, it will not update Line 6 devices (dates back ti Flextone III days I know)...If that is the case, it is a bit of a pain to get the computer cleaned out...M-Audio has a driver removal tool that will remove the left over bits of the driver...Then download the current driver and install. Probably a stupid question, but do you have the midi cables backwards? The reason I ask is that it is pretty common that happens because the UNO cables are marked for where they go, NOT what they are. (ie: TO MIDI IN and TO MIDI OUT)

Is the firmware the same on both units? You should see a version number when you power up the units...Or you can connect to Monkey with a computer and USB cable and see it that way also.

+1 Zap. I managed to brick my DT25 once during beta. I was using my very old UNO interface on an HP laptop as I recall...Anyhoo, I have an EMU 1820 on my DAW which is a PCI interface that has two separate midi interfaces...Anyway, I never ran down what my problem really was...But using the DAW and the EMU recovered the amp...The amp midi interface will still function when the firmware bricks...You just gotta get things right with the interface (different PC, interface or figure out what the issue is with your current setup like insuring the interface drivers are current and installed cleanly)

The HD500 USB does NOT support updating DT firmware via the System Link. You need a separate midi interface.

The mixer pans are exactly that. Pan Controls. Each path is actually stereo...Dead simple approach is to use a passive combiner like this: http://www.zzounds.com/item--CBICOMBINER A tiny little two channel mic mixer would be an active way to do it. A passive combiner will generally have something like a -3db gain loss because resistors are used to isolate the line driver amplifiers so they sum without the amplifiers fighting each other...If you want complete control you could pick up a little two channel mic mixer for about the same $...Perhaps slightly better sonic results with no gain loss...you could even make the signal hotter if needed... Something like this: http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/802/

Keep your patches in the Empty User Setlists....Then you don't have to touch the factory setlists. If you want the factory setlists to be restorable easily, then hookup to HD500 Edit and save them...Then you can always load them later. In terms of building a patch...You could start here: (All I did was Google Sublime Guitar Rig) http://vintage.guitargeek.com/rigview/491/ Even though this might be a dated rig for what you are after...It might be a good exercise given its simplicity and might be a good basis for what you are really after. I would setup a dual tone patch...Probably would use the Plexi 45 and the Soldano Clean for the JC120...The signal path in pretty straight forward...Tube Screamer, Digital Delay in front...One trick in HD would be to use assign the channel volumes of both amps to the expression pedal to setup the crossfade...So basically, my suggestion to you would be to try to build up the signal chain in a decent approximation of what you would do on a real rig. Once you build a few of these from scratch, it really starts making more sense...

I like using the Vibe and assigning the speed to the pedal...Sorta like a real UniVibe....nice an lumpy....I thought the RDH had speed parm as well...expression is a must for those I think...Personally, I prefer the Vibe over the RDH most of the time...So I am not remembering the RDH details at the moment...

Most active guitars use a TRS jack on the guitar. As ahens already indicated, nothing changes with your cable as you still use a conventional 1/4" TS (unbalanced) cable... It is fairly common to use a TRS jack on passive guitars also, but the Ring is wired to the sleeve and this is only for the better stability a TRS jack holding the plug (three spring contacts instead of one) offers over a TS jack (two spring contacts)....The spring contacts hold the plug in place when it is inserted... In an active guitar, the TRS jack acts as a power switch for the onboard preamps the pickup use (that's what makes it active)...So just be sure to unplug the cable from the guitar itself when you are not using it as that will save your battery. This is the same concept as a pedal with a battery in it where you unplug the input side to save the battery.

HD Pro has everything the HD 500 has and a bit more... I say forget 4CM with a MK1 head...Not worth it IMHO with an HD...Yes, I have an SV MK1 and MK2...4CM a MK2 is worthwhile as you can control it and the HD Pro via midi...SV MK1...not so much...Too much Tap Dancing. Besides, the models in the HD are better anyway. I say just run the HD Pro to the Power Amp In...This bypasses the modeling and FX in the MK1 and basically the HDPro is your preamp and FX...much easier to manage I think... 1. GTR->HD Pro GTR Input 2. HD Pro Unbalanced 1/4 out (L or R)->MK1 Power amp IN 3. Rock!

ok...keep in mind that if the volume pedal calibration is not good is can have an effect much like what you describe. knob jitter?...not sure...but it can cause weird volume fluctuations as well. A bad pot on the channel volume or drive can make things strange....you could try setting all the knobs to zero (other than the master of course) ...recall some patches and see if you still have the problem...Other than that, I can think of much else other than perhaps the gate is on and set strange...Or maybe you are using an active guitar and the battery is going flat...If you can't narrow down to a cause you might need to get it serviced.

If you are using Q's that are a couple of octaves and looking for a fairly smooth curve it seems like you could use one PE cutting 900 Hz with a slightly wider Q? I tend to prefer using a single cut filter over two boost filters...If you are trying to tune something more notched it might not work, but it sure seems like it might...

This is one of those subjective questions...Personally, I hate running direct into an FRFR system for guitar. I am not a person that likes having tweeters in my guitar rig...most guitar amps don't have them and I prefer the "Feel" of a conventional guitar amp, not the sound of a mic on an amp...It certainly works and some folks dig that vibe...One thing for sure...A POD of any kind will save you money on tubes...That glass can get kinda expensive...Good idea to consider re-tubing cost when you buy a tube amp...

Sounds like you might need to calibrate the pedal...If I recall correctly, power up holding the D button and follow the prompts.

I actually run my DT25 head and cab on top of my DT50112...the cab feet fit perfect and it makes for a nice little "Pyramid of Death" B)

Furman M-10 is NOT an AVR...conditioner only...You have never had the benefits of an AVR with that device. just surge protection and some filtering...Zero Isolation. Furman AVRs generally have AR in the model...and they cost 2-4 times what the conditioners cost. 120v http://www.furmansound.com/product.php?div=01&id=AR-1215 240v http://www.furmansound.com/product.php?div=03&id=P-1400ARE

Great point DD....I would add the decreased sustain that goes along with the mag pull...hotter the passive pups are, the worse this can be. Active pups don't have this as those only have a few turns on very weak mags (ie: EMG)...

I don't know this for a fact, but my ear tells me that the Line 6 tuners do not have much transient compensation....Some of the newer tuners do... Tuning and adjusted intonation that matches the player is number one in my book. Here is a pretty decent article I found that explains some of the factors I alluded to and a whole bunch more. Most old timers know about the temperament/compensation and that it is practically impossible to adjust the intonation of any guitar perfectly up and down the neck...Unless you have one of those crazy TT necks and then you still have to adjust for the curve and finger pressure. Always wanted to try one, but they are a bit expensive for me... I guess what I am trying to convey is that the way I read a tuner when I tune my guitar is not the same as the next guy...If that doesn't make sense, read the article...It does a better job of explaining this stuff than I can....Sorry to rant, but guitar tuning is probably the most misunderstood subject by most of the guitarists I have worked with...Number one problem in my book are players that have someone else setup intonation...That just simply does not work unless the tech knows exactly how the player touches the neck...Tone always sucks when the tuning is wrong... Good Tuning Article http://www.guyguitars.com/eng/handbook/Tuning/tuning.html If you want a true tempered neck http://www.truetemperament.com/site/index.php

+1...Sounds like one of your power tubes is going...That can put the amp way out of bias. What that means is the top (+) of the sine waves will notch as they cross to the bottom (-)...The result is generally exactly as you describe...the tone gets unusually rough really quickly. Good idea to change all the tubes on this one I think...and adjust the bias proper for the tubes you get....

So you tune it spot on in the HD500 and it then it shows flat on the other tuners? I am not disputing what you are seeing as I am not seeing it for myself and there simply can be other contributing factors...The first thought that comes to mind is a sticky nut...Get it just right, bend it a few times and it goes a touch flat because of a little sticky spot. I am sure this is something you are familiar with, but just throwing things out there... A little idea of how flat would help us understand this a little better...flat is a little vague. I suppose the only other question I can come up with is...Does this exact same thing occur on more than one guitar? I think in order to really isolate what you are seeing it might worth going through the same comparison with another axe...Might be worth taking the wah out too just to be sure nothing else is contributing...I can't really see how a bypassed wah would affect it...unless maybe there is some sort of harmonic hum in the circuit... Anyway, good luck...Not really sure what to tell you other than do your best to isolate the issue to the HD500 and I would think if you can repeat the problem with two different guitars that would pretty much prove to me that there is something up...At that point I would say call support by telephone...use this thread to document what you do so you can refer them to it....Anyway, that is all I can think of...good luck to you sussing this out...