Please ensure Javascript is enabled for purposes of website accessibility Jump to content

spaceatl

Line 6 Expert
  • Posts

    1,569
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    17

Everything posted by spaceatl

  1. 4.5 years...So have you ever changed your tubes? If you have never changed your tubes, I tend to think this is what you should consider checking out...When they go...It is instant and no sound at all...If any of the tubes look like they have a white fog on the inside of the glass, that would be a blown one...
  2. I like the cab models...certainly, not all of them work with every amp model, but they serve as a nice starting place for matching the amp model up to the speaker resulting in a less radical tonestack setting... I have tried a lot of different speakers in my DT50 & DT25...for that matter, I have been doing that with Line 6 amps since the AX2...What I have found is that the less character a speaker has the better the cab models translate...EV12L sounds pretty amazing in these things...V30 just has too much color to it from the git go for my taste...I really do not like that speaker at all...But then I never really like having an icepick in my forehead to start with... :-) After countless speakers, I have arrived at the Jenson Jet Tornado...Hands down one of the best guitar speakers I have ever used...granted it has a bit more color than an EV12L, but not a lot...and weighing 4.5 lbs is a plus for me...It really does not sound like Neo at all to my ears...
  3. Line 6 has come a long way over the years... It used to be sandwiches...or the lack of them...People used to have the misconception that after you invested in all of this sophisticated modeling gear that it would be capable of creating almost any sandwich you desire. Some made the false assumption that the "mind reading feature" had been included...And many of us were confused by those that didn't like sandwiches at all...Why were they using this gear if it wasn't for sandwiches. :D
  4. Wow...Never seen anything quite like that on an amplifier...Looks almost pulled apart...What the heck happened... You might try calling Line 6 HQ and seeing if they can hook you up with a replacement cabinet...Not sure what that would cost...But they might give you some options... Anyway, I have repaired a couple of cedar chests that split like this from water damage (warped apart)...I would do something like this myself...mainly because I have the long trigger clamps you need to repair something like this... Try not to move it very much...Carefully remove the amp from cabinet... I think I would use Gorilla Glue for this...You have about 5-10 minutes to work with it before you need to start getting this seated... Two long trigger clamps 4 2x4 blocks that go back to front to clamp on Fill the gap with glue...use a small brush to make all surfaces are well coated...Doesn't need to be super thick...but it does not really matter too much... Clamp from top to bottom and from side to side on top...edge of a table or a stair step would probably work... position the clamps work the clamps together a little at a time making sure it closes squared...do it slowly from both directions and it should seat back to original position... once it seats...clamp as tight as you can...or add two or four more clamps... make sure you have a damp cloth to remove the excess glue as it squeezes out.. leave it for 24-48 hours...take off the clamps...vinyl repair kit to fix the tolex seam...if it even needs it...edge glued from the bottom...might be fine... If you do not know how to do this sorta stuff...take the amp out of the box carefully and find a carpenter or handyman...that isn't a hard repair and should only cost about an hour of labor IMHO...
  5. You honestly do not find many techs these days that know how to do that...It's a power tranny...Not all that complicated. 30 years...warranted work...that sounds pretty good given the situation...hard for me to judge without meeting the guy for myself... If it were me and I had confidence in the tech and his price was the same or less than a new one, I would choose to have him rewind it...
  6. if you have a very new computer. keep your eye out for updated bios and/or chipset drivers...Windows 8.1 has had some problems with USB interfaces... If you have a laptop, you might need to tweak your power management...This link "could" apply as I know that Line 6 is using streaming modes for the audio...Good Luck.. http://support.microsoft.com/kb/2966804
  7. Well, you could use a slightly modified conventional SPST footswitch and plug it into the expression pedal jack....Assign the drive parameter to the expression and use your outboard footswitch to toggle the programmable min and max...add the whole tonestack and you have instant tone morph....two tones on one patch...Add FX Parms too...If you still need an expression pedal, you could add an additional DPDT Mode footswitch and toggle from a real expression pedal to an expression toggle...pretty simple to do... I use this all the time and it is much faster than a patch change...The slight modification is adding a 10K resistor so the open switch isn't infinite ohms....
  8. Yes, assuming you are using the AMP Model in the HD500....It needs only to be enabled....When the AMP Model in the HD500 is disabled and you are on Channel B, then everything in the HD500 is before the DT50 on the system link...IOW, the Line 6 System Link is one-way...
  9. Nothing technical...ECC83 is the Euro designation...12AX7 is the American designation...just a name....12AU7 is the same as an ECC82...
  10. spaceatl

    pickup booster

    I prefer to buy a stock Boss DS-1 (around $20-30) and clip out D3 and D4....Turns it into a very nice clean booster...Distortion potential drops with a drastic increase in clean gain... To make it even cleaner and have a wee bit more clean output you can take out C12 as well...Removing the cap removes half of the tone potential...increases clean level potential just a bit...Best free mod I have ever found...
  11. pretty cool... This is the first time in a very long time that I have heard about a sparky adjusting bias the old school way (at least that is my impression)...Adjusting for the least amount of crossover distortion involves using a tone generator and an O-scope...That is a step beyond simply matching the current...
  12. Go to your setup menu and set AutoFX to disabled...
  13. I have posted this many times...One way to protect your gear and remove the potential for a ground loop is to use an AVR. While the AVR helps in terms of keep voltage stable in both directions and power conditioning, the other effect is that your power is isolated...Since the tranny does not conduct. the ground loop is broken since the tranny is inducting power...It is a very nice side effect...
  14. Gold plating is great from a practical standpoint, but gold is NOT the best conductor there is. Silver is actually the best conductor. Copper is next and Gold is actually number 3...It's just a bit better than aluminum in terms of conductance and has worse thermal conductance (resistance is temperature based). Audiophiles use silver... Technically, the very best signal wires that I know of are litz wires...Most use copper litz tinned with silver. It's very expensive and difficult to work with...But technically the best wire design there is on the planet. I enjoy reading audiophile blogs as those guys tend to go overboard in every technical direction...There are some good basic concepts in what they tout, but mostly it is entertaining to me just how much money they spend on some of the smallest things...One thing I took from them is that I use silver solder on my speaker cables...It's stronger and conducts better...Not all that expensive...higher heat point takes a little practice to work with it... From a purely technical perspective, this might be the best AES/EBU cable I have have ever seen... http://www.thecableco.com/Product/CrystalDigit-Absolute-Dream You can buy a decent car for what that cable costs...$9K for a meter...$15K for 2...That is about the craziest cable I have ever seen...
  15. If you are confused, I would suggest that you start just running the bean into the power amp in (or FX return)....This is a fairly simple and effective way to run the bean. I use the HD bean pretty exclusively and rarely use 4CM anymore. 4CM can work, but it is a fairly advanced approach that requires some decent understanding of how the bean works in terms of the signal paths as you can get into some trouble when you serialize the signal paths...The HD Pro is a better choice for this, but the bean can be made to work this way. Start with your HD bean set to Combo Power Amp Output Mode and use the power amp input on your amp...Sit down with the manual and learn how to spin up a fairly simple tone...Start with the PRE models alone...get something decent going and move on to adding FX...This exercise will give you great idea of what you can do with the bean in terms of complete tones...Once you get under running it that way, the next step is running 4CM...
  16. HD Bean works great that way. If you have another head you could configure to drive two returns if you wanted to. I have run my HD bean in tandem with conventional pedals and it can work just fine that way...Just takes some tinkering... Not sure if you would be interested, but you can actually run the bean in 4CM the bean to your head...Here is a link to the old thread...Might help you with understanding what you can do with the routing. What you want to do is less complicated as you wanting the bean in the fx loop... http://line6.com/support/topic/2177-4-cm-the-hd-pod-bean-oh-yes-this-works/
  17. try parking all of the DT knobs on channel A to zero....I have had jitter interaction between a POD and the DT on the system link when the tone stack knobs on the amp and the POD are fairly different...any knob movement (or voltage jitter) makes the screen change... For me, i generally prefer to use the DT controls to adjust the amp tone stack on the POD....So I park the knobs on the POD at zero....basically, I have found as long as I pick one device for controlling the tone stack and zero out the other, I don't have much of a problem with the jitters...It's when the tonestack knobs between the DT and POD are totally different that things can get freaky...
  18. System Link is something like AES/EBU audio that goes one wya and control data that goes both...streaming is different than bulk data transmissions....There are not retries in audio data streams...You are describing bulk data transmission...totally different animal...
  19. That's not true. Error Correction exists in ALL digital mediums...digital transmissions can work partially and is NOT an all or nothing proposition at all...The wierd thing about digital video and audio is that the error propagation changes with the content...It can get really strange...
  20. Here's a 30 footer for 20 bucks... http://www.fullcompass.com/product/349047.html Here is a higher end 25 footer for 40 bucks...Canare cable with the Neutriks... http://www.neobits.com/sescom_sc25dxxj_25ft_digital_audio_cable_xlr_male_p3794294.html?atc=gbp&gclid=Cj0KEQiAqYCkBRC4xNiSu5-Y-PcBEiQA96OM9GgXnrW6pVBHMADhnljPUV-Xa52NDJxPxF6X_6HvYZsaAud88P8HAQ
  21. Just my own opinion... I would not worry it much about unless you are looking to use a 100' cable...even then, if you get a high quality mic cable the termination impedance is generally close to 100 ohms (85 ohms is common)...AES/EBU is specific to 110 ohms with a 10-20% tolerance...That means that the wire AWG changes based on the length you need...However, the 1st tier is good up to around 500 ft...Then there's the ferrite core...But that 110 ohms is for running 500' without reflections and reduced high frequency...The high frequency response is the key for this digital stuff...AES/EBU is running from 100 kHz up to 6 Mhz depending on the format....stereo 48 kHz Sample rate is transmitting around 6 Mhz....This is way past 20 kHz.... However, using AES/EBU (110 ohm) cables for analog lines is actually better technically than conventional analog cable (85 ohms)...Basically, the highend bandwidth is so high that you never have to worry about it for analog...Most highend studios use AES/EBU for everything analog and digital...Then you just do not have to worry about it and you need only one type of cable for either application...but that might be too "audiophile" for some folks...Some people claim to hear a difference...I can't tell with a 25 footer...
  22. Yes, the Class, Mode and NFL all affect the power amp configuration and response. The Class and Mode are pretty straight forward. Class A Pentode is probably the most transparent to a certain point of pushing the power amp...Once you push it to a certain point the bottom end is going to get spongy...Class AB will give more transient spank and punch (dynamics) than Class A will...triode mode will darken the repsonse a bit and reduce power...So that likely is not the way you want to go...but those combinations are easy to try...jsut flip the switches...If you mean clean headroom like a Twin, then I would say try Class AB Pentode...If you want it to breathe a little, try Class A...either way can be pretty darn clean...really depends on how loud you are running and your own taste...and the tricky part... The tricky part: Depending on what pre models you have loaded in the NFL selector changes the Negative Feedback Loop which affects the power amp response pretty drastically based on the selected NFL (or model)...The control not only select the preamp model, it will also change how hard the buffer hits the power amp and the Negative Feedback circuit, which will affect clean headroom pretty dramatically...How this happens is technically a little bit different between the DT25 and DT50 but the results as nearly the same. I would say the place to start is loading the amp with some amp models you like...spin up some tones that are close to what you are looking for and snap a few photos of how you have it set so it is easy to remember...Then switch over to your preamp and see what works...
  23. Master volume on the DT50 does not function when using power amp in (same thing on the DT25). However, the FX Level is actually a return level and can be used as a volume master when doing a preamp bypass. That is how I use mine 99% of the time...HD Desktop into the power amp return. I use a channel switch to toggle topo settings... You can drive a DT50 power amp pretty hard with this control as it is an active buffer. The topography settings are analog power amp settings and have a fairly dramatic effect on the power amp response...
  24. HD400 can have an unusual behavior in regards to its USB interface. I got the same behavior to happen on mine a few times. You can notice this if you connect your PC usb to the HD400 while it is unpowered. PC will detect it, but nothing works. I found I could repeat the issue where my HD400 would no longer make any sound if I powered the HD400 down while USB was still connected to the PC. Anyhoo, connecting the USB and disconnecting (let the PC detect it) while the HD400 is powered cleared the condition. Anyway, not sure if this is the issue but thought it might be related and worth mentioning...The only other thing I can think to check would be the USB level in the System Menu of teh HD400 itself...If that is all the way down, there will be no sound.
  25. American Clean is a Fender Twin...If you have used a twin, you will note that there is no such thing as a drive or gain knob on that amplifier. The way that pre was modeled, the recommended approach would be to dime the channel volume and use the drive like you would the Channel Volume. When you switch to LVM, you are using the FULL model version and you can get decent power section distortion at a lower volume that way, but it isn't preamp gain... Unless your amp has been updated from the default models, you should be able to get lots of gain from NFL4...That's the dual rec model and that one browns out around 1 oclock for me(I use medium gain passive pickups)... If you are expecting the drive to behave the same way between models, then that will generally not be the case as they are all different...On some models, even the bass control is actually a gain control...So it might be normal, but then it is really hard to say without actually hearing what is going on for you.
×
×
  • Create New...