TheDaveDaveDave

I'd say make them optional - I couldn't live without those foot-switches, and have ditched units in the past JUST because you'd have to hold a footswitch for two seconds to get to other modes or activate tap tempo.

Like Brothers in Arms maybe? https://youtu.be/k5JkHBC5lDs JTM45 FTW! Of course, Knopfler's touch is the real key.

I do, but I usually only have one of them on when playing live, unless im doing volume swells.

For my main project these days, my live rig is the Helix in front of either a Traynor ygm-3 or a ygm-4, both from the 70s. Here what I use: Klon and ocd Empress flanger Bias trem Elephant delay Spring and hall verbs Usually I use two verbs in parallel, but I always have a second expression pedal that controls both the reverb mix and delay mix and feedback. Especially for verbs going into the front of an amp, I find it important to be able to manually ilk out the muck. That's my .02 spacebucks.

Thanks for that - I just ordered another one!

(NOTE TO ALCON:, just because I don't have a problem with the Helix's tuner doesn't mean that I'm not sympathetic to your tuner-woes. I sincerely hope that all of your issues with the Helix tuner are logged in Ideascale and that they get enough votes or attention from the AWESOME Line 6 team to be remedied to your satisfaction! ) Ya - kind of why I posted it. I shot it on a whim over a month ago, and thought about posting it and didn't. I don't have a dog in this fight, but when I saw this thread I thought it might be interesting to see what different folks see. Turns out that different folks see different things. (surprise surprise!) What I see that the Helix's fat-bars are more accurate than a TC Polytune, and less than a Strobostomp. The skinny bars are jumpy enough to annoy me, but useful enough for me not to drag a strobe tuner out (or any other tuner). The Polytune has always been more than adequate for live and recording (for me). Interestingly, many folks on this and other threads say that they'll use a Polytune or a Polytune Clip - but the Helix is clearly more accurate (to me) even when you ignore the slim bars. I.e., Even when the Polytune shows dead steady, the Helix's fat-bars sometimes show that the pitch is still off. If you pay attention, the Strobo almost never stands dead still - it's a strobe tuner after all. It's very useful for doing setup adjustments if you're going to hit the studio or what not - but you'll ALWAYS see it change as the string rings out - it's just that sensitive. That may not be apparent over the whole course of the clip. Finally, if you're wondering why it took me so long to tune my beautiful PRS in that clip - it's because while I was shooting it I'd just discovered that my baby needed a new nut - the D-String slot was overworn and not intonatable. Sad. Funny thing is that all three tuners provided enough information to determine this, and incidentally, so did my ears ;-)

LOLZ!

Just my experience: Based on what I'm reading, other users are having different sounding experiences than what I've had. Anyone care to comment?

I know you're on windows and you probably prefer it - but Mac's do have this cool built in feature where you can aggregate multiple sound cards and use them as one big one. Very handy for situations like yours! That said, I concur with Mr. Hamm, as usual :)

Ditto. Works great with outboard gear and preamps in 4CM as well!

Doh - sorry, I meant to hit the upvote button and missed! Can folks pitch in to restore GUIX's standing and up vote? Sorry!

NICE!!! That's a Super Eagle, isn't it? Since getting my Modern Eagle last year, it's about all I play, except for its stunt-double, an SE Semi Hollowbody, but only to protect my prrecious... no one take my PRECIOUS! ;-) Congrats!

Let's just be excellent to each other!

Note that compressor settings vary GREATLY depending on the inout signal.... I.e., how hot the pickups are, pre-compressor gain structure, etc. Always season to taste!

I'd just sell the 11 and play guitar. Or just play guitar. ;)

You should use snapshots to do this instead of presets... the OP wrote his post before the snapshot feature was released, AFAIK.

I love my Helix, and mostly use it 4CM with my Triaxis, occasionally with my Mark V. I don't miss my Mark IV at all. If it's the 'extreme' mode you're missing from the V, I was really surprised to discover that the Helix's Recto Pre was the closest sounding thing I could get to the Mark V's extreme mode preamp .... REALLY close, as compared A/B, Mark pre in the Helix loop vs Helix modelled pres. this was before the Mark IV models and EQ were introduced, FWIW. I really wish that Helix had modelled poweramps without preamps, to support mixing and matching, it'd probably have way more messy combinations than good ones, but from what I can tell, a modelled recto pre into a real simulcasts poweramp sounds awesome.... almost just like a Mark V. YMMV

I've been thinking the same thing - something like an Earthworks M30. Of course, it would hurt like all heck for anyone to choose it while wearing headphones, or going to a PA, but I wonder how close an FRFR would work with a modelled cab and a properly modeled reference mic for the AItR scenario.... DI, Frank, can you guys comment on any research you've done with this, beyond "cannot confirm nor deny"? ;)

Hey, if it feels right, it's all right! Congrats - sounds like a great way to play! Perhaps you can get a small mixer so that you can hear both your stereo and the helix in stereo? Something like this? http://www.markertek.com/product/mx124/rolls-mx124-promix-iv-portable-4-channel-field-mixer-battery-or-ac-operation?utm_medium=shoppingengine&utm_source=googlebase&utm_source=google&utm_term=Product_Target&utm_campaign=Shopping+-+Pro-Audio&utm_medium=cpc&utm_content=q7lUqvWD%7Cpcrid%7C74923785980%7Cpdv%7Cc%7C&gclid=CjwKEAjw3drIBRCOwfC-_qqyjQ8SJADvoWQp8MhgWwNWDAbe82Mk_y6xdsEHtI8wZfhIXNBgioBqTxoCaa3w_wcB

Other posters are correct, what you're doing is still 4CM, just with a twist. I hear you about the extra volume control being a nuisance. When I do 4CM with my Triaxis and 20/20, I have a twist on it too - It's kind of like your setup, but inverted. The Helix sends from Send 1 and I wire up the Triaxis' send back to the Helix return, and the Helix output direct into the 20/20 poweramp, thereby eliminating the Triaxis master volume. I prefer the Helix's master volume, as it's digital and ensure's that there'll be less chance of impedance/coloration, etc.

I address this with my 4CM (also with a Mark V) setup using send 1 at instrument and then have the AMP send --> return 2 at line level. There's a large volume difference but not too much of a tonal difference.

You really don't need to worry about damaging your speakers or any of your home stereo components - they'll be fine. What I would worry about is the latency between the transmitter - if the delay is any greater than 10 or 15 milliseconds (YMMV), you'll feel it. The only way to know for sure is to just try it out. If possible, I think you'd be better served by hardwiring the link to your speakers. Hope this helps,

Here's an idea... what if it was more like a strobe tuner as an option? I really think most folk's problem is that it's actually a more accurate tuner than most, and they're seeing a higher degree of accuracy, and therefor a higher degree of hysteresis. I say this having A/Bd the Helix tuner against my PolyTune and my Strobostomp. When you use a strobe tuner, there's a LOT more information to see - and you realize that you'll NEVER get the guitar in perfect tune for more than 500ms. It's just physics. I think it would help a lot of users adjust to this reality. Respectfully, Dave

... or where you don't want your audience to hear 3 or 4 players take turns tuning their instruments between songs. :)

At home for my "amp in the room", I use send 1 at instrument level to a Mesa Boogie Triaxis, with return 2 at line level back to the Helix before a Randall or Boogie power amp into a stereo 2x12 cab. I almost always use separate reverbs and delays before the cab. On a few patches I have alternate preamps instead of the "real deal", and sometimes one channel from the Triaxis and the other from the Helix. It sounds DEEEEEEEP! Here's the cool part. Sometimes I use the mic input, track my miced up 2x12 and tweak the Helix signal to the DAW, adjusting the modeled cabs to "tone match" my "amp in the room" sound, Y'all have to try this, For gigs these days, I almost always use the Helix as a pedalboard in front of an old Traynor combo these days, with no loops. The most amazing part of the Helix is that I can "roughly" cop the same tone regardless of whether I'm using it as a pedalboard, a 4cm controller with inserts or as a standalone modeler to the DAW. It's only because I can A/B the preamps and compare the real mics and cabs to the modeled versions. I've never had a single piece of gear that makes it this easy. I only wish there were two mic inputs. All that said, always be mindful of the Fletcher-Munson curve and you'll be fine ;-)