silverhead

Perhaps I misunderstand, but it seems to me that you can do exactly what you want now by using separate amp, cab, and IR blocks. Do not use the amp+cab block. Assign footswitches to turn these three blocks on/off in any combination you want. It only takes a few seconds to modify the factory preset in this way if you want. For instance, to quickly compare the stock cab to an IR, leave the amp block on. Assign the same footswitch to the stock cab block and the IR block. Save the preset with one of these blocks on and the other off. Then use the footswitch to instantly toggle between these two blocks to compare them. One thing's for sure - as soon as all the factory presets were modified in this way as a result of an Ideascale submission, you would immediately see a new Ideascale submission to combine the separate amp and cab blocks into an amp+cab block in order to save some DSP.

Extended warranties for electronic products are usually offered at the retail level, by the retailer at the time of purchase. It's a very big money maker for them. Perhaps what you're asking for is already available. I live in Canada and this is common practice here. Do you know if extended warranties for JTVs are available when purchased from major U.S. online retailers like Sweetwater, Musician's Friend, etc.? The problem I have with purchasing an extended warranty is that it's basically an admission or expectation that the product is going to fail. I think that's why they are not usually offered by the manufacturer itself (beyond the basic warranty period). And as a purchaser, I don't buy products I expect will fail. But it's a great money maker for retailers who can prey on buyer's fears. I realize that none of this applies to current owners of JTVs, but it may apply to new buyers.

Thanks for the clarification.

There's no software to download. All HD Model packs are already in the POD HD device, but locked up. After the purchase has been made I believe that info will be updated in your Line 6 user account. I think that running the License manager with the POD device connected via usb, and logging into your account should unlock the purchased model pack(s) on your device.

Expressing a personal opinion doesn't excuse rudeness or personal attacks. You seem to think that's OK. I don't. Bulletin Board bullies - same the world over.

Yes - the mags have a direct analog path to the 1/4" output. They do not depend on the electronics. You can use the JTV as a standard guitar without the modeling and without powering the electronics. The Vol and Tone knobs, as well as the pickup selector switch, will continue to work as you expect.

No, that's not the part that was unreasonable, and that triggered our responses to you. It was this part....... Your memory (or at least the part of your posts you choose to quote) seems a little overly generous to yourself. You may have forgotten about that part. I, for one, haven't. Perhaps I will if I see a sincere and public apology to phil_m.

I don't have my Helix with me at the moment, but you might get some insight from one or more of the presets in the TEMPLATES setlist in the Helix factory presets. I think by analyzing the input and output blocks there might be some hints about the options and requirements re: physical setup and connections. There will be constraints in the number of inputs if you want stereo outputs. For instance, if you want to record stereo from your drum machine you will need to use a stereo pair of inputs (e.g. Return 3/4) and assign its outputs to a stereo pair of USB channels (e.g. USB 3/4). Then in your DAW you would select channels 3/4 as the record inputs to a stereo track. (Note that the only 'something else' you could successfully connect to the Variax input is a Variax guitar.)

Not sure whether this is relevant at all, but that reminds me that backing off the Vol knob to zero puts the guitar into a sort of sleep mode with respect to battery usage. Can't see how that's relevant when using VDI but I'm not a big believer in coincidence....... EDIT: At least it looks like there's a simple workaround: ME: Doctor, it hurts when I do this. DOCTOR: well, then don't do that.

My JTV59 looks great and plays beautifully. No issues with it, ever.

That's a strange one. Does this happen with all presets? Is there a Vol FX in the preset(s)? If so is it possible that your VOL controller pedal is loose and slowly moving to the toe down position? Can you determine whether it's the volume knob on the guitar that's misbehaving, as opposed to some other volume control in the POD? In other words, after the volume returns and the guitar's volume knob is still at a lower setting, how does the volume behave when you increase the guitar volume back to full?

I don't know why it just stopped working, but you have an open support ticket and apparently your issue is being worked on. As for getting an answer to your other question, you may or may not get it here. This is a user support forum. Occasionally a Line 6 employee like Digital Igloo visits here, and that's a good bonus. Otherwise we're all volunteer users here, including Phil. It's nobody's job here to answer your questions. We all choose how we spend our volunteer time here. Personally, based on the way you treated Phil's response (to someone else I note), I will choose to spend my time answering someone else's questions. I hope your issues get resolved. Meantime, don't take your frustrations out on others here. We have no obligation to you.

Just to be sure, you are following this procedure, right? Bluetooth® Pairing Button - Using Bluetooth® technology, your Firehawk FX communicates wirelessly with your mobile device. Before running the Firehawk Remote app, you'll need to pair Firehawk FX with your mobile device as follows: • Enter Pairing mode on the Firehawk FX by pressing the Bluetooth® button on the top panel - it will flash. • Enter Bluetooth® Pairing mode on your iOS device, or open the Bluetooth® Settings menu on your Android™ device. • Your Firehawk FX device’s unique name will appear on your mobile device. Android™ users may need to select "Scan for Devices" to refresh the list of available Bluetooth® devices. • Select your Firehawk FX unit's unique name on your mobile device - this completes the pairing configuration and you are ready for wireless operation!

I didn't realize you are already using an external pedal. My suggestion was to use one - and no, you don't need two externals. You're right - there's a conflicting setting somewhere. I don't have the Helix floorboard so I'm not 100% sure how the default settings for the onboard expression pedal EXP-1 and EXP-2 are affected when you add an external pedal and assign it to Vol. Perhaps you could experiment with using another controller (other than toe-switch) to activate/deactivate your Wah/Vol blocks? Or you could try connecting your external pedal to the EXP-3 input and assign the Vol block to EXP-3.

You should use a second (external) expression pedal if you want to keep both Vol and Wah on simultaneously, and to stop having the Vol increase to activate Wah.

Any Long & McQuade store should have a good setup. They're also a Line 6 retailer.

I suggest each of you open a support ticket to work directly with Line 6 tech support on your problem.

You can do that in terms of presets and connections, but you may find it difficult to use the looper for live playing. Using the Hd500 looper live while changing presets requires a tap dancing skill that I gave up on. It's just too awkward for me to get all the footswitches stomped in the right order and at the right time while keeping the song tempo. You will need to use two presets in your HD500 - one for the acoustic guitar and one for the electric guitar. Each preset will store/recall the desired JTV model. The acoustic guitar preset should include the looper in post position. The Mixer in the preset should pan the signal full left. Connect the Hd500 L output to the P.A. The electric guitar preset does not need the looper. Pan the mixer full right in this preset and connect the Hd500 R output to your amp. That should give you the required setup. Now get your tap dancing shoes on and see if you can hit the switches and keep the tempo! You'll need to enter Looper Mode to record the acoustic loop, leave it playing back when finished recording, exit Looper Mode to switch presets, play your electric over the loop, enter Looper Mode again to turn off the loop playback when desired, and end up in the right preset to continue playing when the looper stops. And all of this while playing and keeping the song tempo. OPTION: It may be possible to do all this in one preset which would certainly simplify the dancing. I haven't experimented with it but theoretically it's feasible. The connections are the same - L output to the PA and R to your amp. You would need a dual-path preset that keeps the signals completely separate throughout the chain, with the mixer panned full L and R appropriately for each path. Let's say you use Path A for your acoustic guitar and Path B for your electric. Set Input 1 to Variax and Input 2 to Variax Mags. Note that you will be limited to using your JTV69 mag pickups for electric guitar - a Strat sound. Note also that you may be limited in terms of FX on each path - you can only use 8 total. The trick in this setup will be to assign a footswitch in the preset to simultaneously toggle an effective 'mute' function in each path when you want to switch from acoustic to electric. There's no inherent feature to do this in the Hd500 so you will have to arrange to do it by turning on/off key blocks in the signal chain. For instance, while playing acoustic you might bypass the electric guitar amp and set its bypass volume to 0. While playing electric guitar you might bypass the preamp in your acoustic path, which will reduce its volume to near-zero. You'll have to experiment with this setup to see if you can make it work for you.

I agree - get a pair of studio monitors, not just one. 5" speakers will be (barely) adequate of you want to crank it up now and then. Don't go as low as 4", and get 6" if you can afford it. As for manufacturer, your best bet is to visit an audio store that has a selection set up for listening and evaluation purposes. Bring an audio recording with you (iPhone, MP3 player) that you know well and choose the speakers through which it sounds best to you.

Also, do you have the hardware independent license for Pod Farm, or is your license tied to a physical Line 6 hardware device?

You're exactly right on all points. Replicating a Firehawk preset settings on Helix does not sound the same because the underlying modeling DSP is not the same. And given that your Firehawk preset sounds good to you, the Helix preset won't. Yet Helix, it's true, is capable of delivering much better sound than Firehawk. But not with the same settings. And given that Helix is able to produce better sounds, why would your goal be to replicate the Firehawk sounds? You want BETTER sounds. If you are satisfied with your Firehawk sounds there is no reason to get Helix. But if you want better sounds, you won't find them using your approach so far. You will have to start from scratch or use Customtone as a a starting point. There is a learning curve with Helix and there is no shortcut around it. Much better sounds are in there but you will have to find them by experimenting. Start with one of your favourite amps. Add it to a New Preset in Helix and start experimenting with the amp settings. You will soon find the settings that sound good to you - and they won't be the settings from the Firehawk preset. Experiment with the Drive setting and with your guitar's volume knob. Notice the improved dynamics of how the amp responds to your guitar, and how the drive setting adds a much more realistic 'grit' to your tone. This is the starting point for your preset. You may find you don't need an overdrive pedal at all, and if you want one it's settings can be much more subtle than the Firehawk settings. Once your amp/drive/overdrive setup sounds good to you, move on to adding other FX one by one, experimenting with the settings, until you have a full preset that sounds better than Firehawk. There's really no escaping the learning curve if you want better tones. But again, if you like your Firehawk tones and don't want the learning curve, there is no need for you to get Helix.

Yes, that would work.

Right - my interpretation of 200ms was off by an order of magnitude - don't know what I was thinking there. But as for the fade-in behaviour of the attack parameter, I took that from wikipedia - unless I misinterpreted the description there, and that interpretation was done at the same time that I thought 200ms was 2 seconds.... so perhaps that should be taken with a grain of salt! :lol: :P All in all, seems like a big fail on that one!

Look for a compressor block that has an Attack parameter. This defines the length of time from gate-opening to full volume; essentially the 'fade-in' time for the sound. A high value for this parameter explains the symptom. For instance, with the Deluxe Comp FX, an Attack time of 200ms and a Mix of 100% means no dry signal gets through, and the compressed signal will fade-in over a period of 2 seconds.

Here are the startup options: http://line6.com/support/page/kb/_/effects-controllers/helix/helix-reset-procedures-and-troubleshooting-tricks-r768 I don't see one for Test mode though.