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JLondon last won the day on September 12 2018

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About JLondon

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  1. Depending upon the style music you play and if you're still wanting to 'play out occasionally', I say get a Line 6 Powercab Plus and don't look back. I don't play super heavy and more radical types of Metal - but I would think no form of speaker or cab other than a 4x12 would be suitable for that anyway. But for everything else - Powercab! That said, after reading this thread, I'm looking forward to trying my Helix through the effects loop of my own Mesa V-25 and traditional speaker cabs. I've been selling all my amp heads but recently decided to keep the Mesa due to it's on-board speaker load box/sim and it's capabilities with my DAW and Helix NATIVE plugin.
  2. JLondon

    Dirty Shirley IR

    Thanks. I've since found the Bonkers site myself and also a version made by 3Sigma Audio that I couldn't find before. Bought the Sigma pac and it's very good but not the same. Going to try Bonkers next I guess - or see if I can find some sort ofconversion software. The actual IR name shows up on Helix as "Dirty Shirley TM"
  3. JLondon

    Dirty Shirley IR

    My absolute favorite IR for Hendrix, Texas blues, edge of break-up, style play is called the Dirty Shirley. BUT! I'm unorganized and have absolutely no idea where or how I got possession of it. I also don't remember what speaker it is supposed to be emulating. Google's not helping. Does anybody happen to know who made/distributed this IR? I'm wanting to research it and also wanting to see if they offer other versions of it as it is one of those that is Helix friendly but not Powercab friendly. I reeeeealy want to install this on my Powercab. Anybody know how to convert? Can I?
  4. Oh my goodness! A single answer to your last questions is that If both the Powercab 212 and the Helix are in your budget - buy and don't look back. The only other FRFR option I would even consider (if budget friendly) is the Mission Engineering Gemini line. Still favor Powercab and it's "cab in the room" sound without even counting the fact that it also communicates with Helix via L6 LINK and cable. There will be a learning curve so I wouldn't sell my analog equipment until you're more comfortable with the new tech. But once you get over the learning hump, you'll be flabbergasted at how cheap the new equipment really is compared to the money you've spent in the past. The only exception to this comment would maybe be if you played a lot of really heavy/chunky metal that pretty much requires a 4X12 cab. You also still have to consider (just like with your existing equip.) the difference between how things sound at home or studio and different size venues. That doesn't change. Question 1) - Yes you absolutely can get lost but only if you choose to allow it. Hopefully you're not A.D.D. The Helix Floor (which is what I think you should consider) is a Swiss Army Knife but it's also the simplest tech user interface out there of its kind. Make it easy on yourself, forget about routing a bunch of your 'hard to part with' pedals through it (with the exception of an extra expression pedal). Also, I would recommend ignoring the millions of IR's out there unless you're already familiar and have a favorite. But basically, just attempt to recreate the system you already use along with what you've wished for in the past but didn't have room on the board. Question 2) - Absolutely not but you obviously will have room to grow for future needs. Question 3) - Completely depends upon how well you take my advice to question 1 and how disciplined you are and how focused you remain. Start by simply sticking with recreating your current setup. Create a template preset resembling your current board. Then make 40 presets based on your song list order by copy and pasting the template and adjusting as needed. Each song preset can have its own "snapshots for going back and forth between gain and mod settings as needed (intro/verse/chorus/mods/etc). Once you've watched a couple YouTube vids and learned basic user interface it shouldn't take long at all. Most everybody has done this and already has a pretty good concept of the basics before even purchasing. Only after I achieved your initial goal would I start goofing around with the other possibilities the Helix/Powercab offers. Good Luck to you!
  5. I sincerely apologize for this comment - but I just can't help myself. I gotta say that this wins the Olympic Gold Medal for the weirdest question I've ever read on the Line 6 Forum.
  6. I apologize that I evidently misunderstood your OP and went to such great lengths to 'preach to the choir', so to speak. That said, I'm still totally confused as to what you mean when you say " Not having any problems switching things on the PC+ from the Helix" while then going on to say " but to leave out the ability to change presets on the PC+". My thinking is that they are one and the same - are they not? This is the root of my misunderstanding and incorrect lengthy attempt to be helpful (grin). Using, perhaps, different terminology than used previously - what exactly is it you are referring to that you can't change on the PC+ from the Helix? I'm not aware of a single PC+ setting that I can't adjust directly from the Helix. Again I'm in total agreement about the inconvenience of the PC+ IR names not being visible on the Helix.
  7. I'll start by stating/assuming the obvious that A)you have both the Helix and PC+ turned on when trying to edit your preset and B) you have the 'output' block selected/highlighted on the Helix chain (circled arrow out) and then the Powercab tab selected when looking at your Edit program (I assume its the same on the physical unit as well, I've never tried). With that out of the way, then yes, it's a bummer that just the number of the IR shows up. Very confusing and inconvenient (outside the fact that "Helix" and "inconvenient" is really an oxymoron). However, if you have the L6 LINK system connected correctly with a correct/compatible cable you absolutely can switch PC+ presets via the Helix. Trouble is that by default, the change doesn't physically show up on the PC+ menu strip - but it IS changing. As I've had it explained to me, if you open the PC+ App on your computer, you can see the change happen within the app when you change your setting in the Helix (or Edit). That said you should also be able to 'hear' the difference - but if your just exploring the system without actual play (like I was) it can fool you. I think someone posted elsewhere on how you can make the PC+ scribble strip physically show changes on the fly, but I've never felt the need once I realized everything was working. I THINK you have to create a different Helix 'preset' for every PC+ preset you want. I've not yet tried creating multiple/footswitchable PC+ scenes within the 'same' Helix preset via snapshot mode. 'Might' be possible - I don't know. But the two units definitely communicate and switch via L6LINK otherwise. P.S. An alternative to making an IR list on paper, The IR "names" do show up on the PC+ app if you want to keep it open when constructing presets. Just know that, when switching IRs in the 'PC+App', you have to "choose" your IR from the dropdown menu on the 'right' - NOT from the column on the left. If I understand correctly - 2x clicking on the left column will 'change attributes' you may have made to a particular IR previously (like treble/bass cut etc.) and you will get a warning message. The dropdown on the right simply (and correctly) 'selects' and applies a desired IR. My advice is to keep both Edit and PC+ App open while you work/edit until you are comfortable and realize that Helix/Edit will suffice for most everything.
  8. I have the Helix Floor and not the LT so this may be applicable and it may not - I don't know. But with the Helix Floor and Rack versions, the "Global" EQ is disabled when using the "LINK" socket/connection. It's a long shot, but if you normally use Global EQ you may have unknowingly been boosting your signal and now LINK is disabling that leaving your preset without enough signal to clip the Powercab. Hence an adjustment to your individual presets would be in order. Also, I'm assuming that you previously adjusted the clip levels manually using the menu/knobs on the Powercab since you just started using the LINK connection. Are you still doing this physically at the Powercab? I'm assuming you're not since the only purpose for a "LINK" connection (or a Link cable) us to make adjustments via USB and the Helix app on a computer. If you are, then that may (may not) be the problem. It's possible (I haven't tried it) that the LINK disables some manual adjustments on the Powercab. Lastly, and I hate to say it, double check your connections to make sure you're LINK to LINK. I hate to say it, but I've been embarrassed on more than one occasion when learning that I had routed my signal from the LINK connection on the Helix to an XLR connection on the PC+ or visa-versa.
  9. I just don't get these kinds of comparison videos. While my two favorite examples turned out to be the Spider and Helix, I didn't hear any differences, or even dynamic playing capability, that couldn't be remedied by a simple tweak of a knob - on ANY of the units. This has pretty much been true of any pedal/amp, analog or solid state, that I've ever seen. I also have no clue as to their method/attempt at achieving apples to apples between the different units, let alone the 3 to the 1. So in reality, aren't we just listening to a comparison between manual "adjustments" and not tone capabilities of various equipment? What I will suggest we can take away from this vid and the many others out there, is that the profiling tech has indeed finally come into its own just like the painful transition between film and digital photography - and like the latter proved to have been, the profiling is just getting started.
  10. Thanks so much - your reply is still very helpful, late or otherwise. I have a similar playing style/interest as yourself. I haven't tried the dual amp thing with the Helix. I'm curious to know which amp sim on the Helix you are using and how your are routing it in the Helix chain. I have also found, contrary to opinions/reviews I've read, that the "passive" cab sim on the Mesa is fantastic through both my DAW and now the PC+ (and I prefer "open" setting as well). It sure beats the 'on-board' cab that came with my "active" Two Notes Torpedo Captor - however, since posting this thread, I've tried running my Mesa through the Captor via traditional speaker cable and sending just a dry signal to the PC+ which allows me to use the PC+ cab sims or IRs (I'm a big fan of PC+ Vintage and Heritage). The latter is technically the absolute best sounding of my options, but adding another pc of hardware and cabling does complicate matters a bit and contrary to the purpose of my OP - and I do like simple (why I bought the Helix in the first place). But now that I'm on track with this mission (thanks to the help of everyone on this thread), I will start playing around with EQs as you mentioned. Thanks again!
  11. Well that was certainly easy enough. Thanks!
  12. Yeah, I'm just wanting to keep it simple. My Mesa does have a loop in the back, but I also have other amps that don't (for which I have a Torpedo Captor to handle speaker load and cab model). I've used 4CM with traditional pedal boards and amp loops but in this case my mods are to be more simple for just a slightly less dry signal - nothing crazy. I also have the option of running my Mesa straight into my DAW and using Native. I was just looking for an easier option or one that didn't require firing up the computer or "messy cabling". So can the Helix Floor be plugged directly into the front of an amp like the Helix Effects?
  13. Okay here's one for ya and is probably simpler than I'm trying to make it. WITHOUT using 4 cable method, how would you setup these 3 pcs together keeping in mind that the Mesa V-25 amp has it's own cab model (passive) IR and speaker load box option that sends out a "line" signal. With that in mind I'm thinking 4CM shouldn't be necessary and that I could simply put PC+ in Flat mode. In other words, I'm basically just wanting to use the Helix Floor like a Helix "Effects" into the Mesa into the PC+ in as close to 'series' as possible - and not have a ridiculous amount of cabling. I already know the Mesa sounds awesome straight into the PC+ so I'm just wanting to introduce the Helix Floor into the mix. Can the "Floor" be made to work like an "Effects"?
  14. Okay, so if I'm wrong I sure somebody will let me know - but the Helix hardware and Native are exactly the same. While there may be some latency issues based on an individual's computer power, the only difference I've noticed is due to the fact that that, with Native, you have to introduce another pre-amp (audio interface) to the mix in order to have something to plug your guitar into. That will undoubtedly color/affect the tone/signal a bit differently in a side by side comparison to the Helix hardware's pre-amp and how good or bad that is will depend on the quality of said audio interface. Would be similar to adding a mic pre-amp before your amp mod in a Helix hardware preset. Seems to me the only way this could be otherwise is if you were using a Helix "rack" as your desktop audio interface (or other Helix hardware which defeats your purpose). Also, I've not played around with it yet, but I'm not sure how to introduce an expression pedal or wah into the mix with native. I've read others talking about midi, etc., but I'm wondering what would happen if I just plug into a wah before my audio interface same as if I were going to a traditional amp. I'm about to find out I guess.
  15. I too would like to be able to do things in HXedit without having to have the device connected and/or a guitar in my lap. And that's not senseless at all. Makes perfect sense. Codamedia said it best earlier. And it would be nice to be able to "simply" study presets and approaches of others. I'm feeling I'm at a point where I know my equipment well enough to get use from Edit in this manner and that while a "total" dependence upon "hearing" instantly is a necessary step in the Helix learning curve, it's also something that should become less necessary in the early part of the creation process as one becomes more familiar with the process. Sometimes having too many options is a distraction more than anything else. Currently "Native" is the only, and closest, option for what's being suggested, but you also have to have your audio program of choice open as well in order to use it. And now that I've upgraded my Cubase to pro, I have to have a damned USB dongle to open that. So I might as well just bite the bullet and hook up my Helix to start with.
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