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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/07/2023 in all areas

  1. If this happens to others, here's the fix. You'll need assistance from Line6 support. Josh was so helpful just now when I called. Thank you, Josh! With the power off, hold down the first footswitch (top left) and power up the unit. After an quick initial boot, all off the small displays above each footswitch will be populated with info. The one in the bottom left contains the ESN number, which Line6 can look up, supplying you with the corresponding serial number.
    2 points
  2. Neither needed nor possible. Tubes, by their very nature, color the sound and change over time, so, NOT FRFR, even if FRFR were a real thing. It's NOT, in any absolute sense. Look to the published (if they dare to publish) response curves of several "FRFR" speakers for proof. As to "FEEL", that is TOTALLY subjective. Most high-end modelers and profilers have "deep" settings intended to affect those parameters related to "FEEL". Only YOU can judge their effectiveness. If you'd like an in depth look at the futility of your quest, go to the Digital and Modeling Forum on The Gear Page. Thousands of years of experience there. My advice - Ignore claims of "FRFR". Don't focus on replicating the "FEEL" of your tube amp. It's a rabbit hole. Try several different "made for modelers" powered speakers. Buy the one that sounds and "FEELS" best TO YOU. Play yer guitar. Good Luck! FWIW - I'm currently using my Helix with a Catalyst 100 for grab'n'go, and a Powercab 212+ in RAW speaker mode (no tweeter) or "FRFR" mode for use with IRs. I RARELY use the Speaker Emulation mode, as it doesn't sound all that good. Full disclosure - I've never suffered an addiction to tubes.
    1 point
  3. There is a Global Setting in the Switches/Pedals section that controls pedal behaviour in this respect. From the manual, the Position setting for each pedal: “Determines whether the POD Go expression pedal positions are recalled per snapshot, per preset, or applied globally. If you want a Volume Pedal or Wah to maintain its position when switching presets, set this to “Global.””
    1 point
  4. A factory reset and restore from backup would probably be a good choice. However it may be some data munging in Helix so it might be worth saving setlist 4 to your hard drive, then test to see if you're getting the same problem in setlist 5 and up with an empty setlist 4. If that goes well you could then try restoring setlist 4 and see if the problem re-occurs. Doing a reset and restore from backup might work, but not if the backup has the same data problem you have in the unit. One of the key regimens I adopted early on was to not depend on Helix for my storage. When I change a preset I save it to the hard drive and I restore them as needed. I can used the "saved" date on the file to know if something has changed and needs to be restored. In 8 years I've never had any kind of faulty preset. I think that's more than just dumb luck.
    1 point
  5. Am I reading this wrong in that you seem to be saying the audio sent to a DAW via USB exhibits the same characteristics as the headphones? If thats the case it really could be anywhere. You say you've done all the troubleshooting you can think of, but I will ask anyway, have you factory reset the device and tested it before loading any back-ups? Software gremlins can be pretty weird. Does the issue occur with streamed audio? If yes to a factory reset with no result then I second a bench test.
    1 point
  6. You can also use the “infinite” setting on the newer dynamic hall and plate reverb. Their delay time goes all the way to infinite at the upper end of the time slider. You can set a foot switch to either latch or momentary to do this. If you wanted, you could also set that same switch to bypass the reverb and if you had tails enabled it would keep going. This kind of thing would be more similar to what the strymon pedals do than poly sustain. Good luck!
    1 point
  7. I'm a high gain player too and I agree, pre 3.5 I couldn't get a "good" sound out of my Helix without IR's and even then they still sounded off somehow. I think the sound quality of Helix post 3.5 is pretty fantastic though. I can dial in a good sounding patch in a lot less time now. All "in the box" and straight off the board if I feel like it, footswitches programmed and everything. The whole "just touch the switch you want that effect or whatever to be on and boom, it's there" setup is insanely easier than trying to route a midi controller! Here's what really got me back with the Helix stuff though. Reamping is cool, but loading Native onto my DI tracks and taking a tone I ballparked solo and fine tuning it in a mix without having to mess around with reamping is 1,000x better and faster for me. Fractal doesn't have a digital version of their hardware living in my computer that I can screw around with in real time. Helix does and now it's proving to be a very effective solution after the 3.5 update. Reamping an Axe FX (properly and per the manual anyways) isn't as simple and straightforward as it is on a Helix either. If all I had was a Helix and reamping it would still be a bit easier. But I have Native, so why not just use that instead? Native is Helix's secret weapon in "the great modeling wars". It really unlocks the full potential of it, at least IMO. Reamping to fine tune your patches is effective but this is a lot faster and you can work with every guitar track you have Native loaded on at once rather than independently reamping one track at a time. Both can save the end patches and load them onto the hardware after reamping, but nothing works as good as Native and Helix combined for this now in my experience. Don't get me wrong, Fractal has a lot of love and it's very well deserved. Metallica uses them live for a reason right? There's something about the feel of playing an Axe FX that I really like and I can't 100% match it in my Helix, at least not yet. If I had to describe that difference I'd say the Fractals feel a little more "loose and spongy" and the Helix feels "stiffer and slightly less dynamic" by my comparison. But is it different enough to care about if I can streamline everything else in my guitar workflow? No, they aren't that far off and you wouldn't even know the difference unless you played them side by side. The "stiffness" I feel with the Helix can actually be an advantage sometimes if I'm doing really precise palm muted stuff. Different picking techniques in general though translate a tiny bit better on the Fractal stuff. So for me at least that's why Helix now wins. The sounds are good, the workflow is good, what's not to like about that? The Vitriol Lead model is really growing on me now too, but could it replace my tried and true Revv Red? It just might...
    1 point
  8. I'm not allowed to edit my post from this morning so I have to quote it... arghhh! I meant to say "I have no idea how to access the LCD TEST on an HX Effects or a Helix" .... not a stomp.
    1 point
  9. I totally understand why someone would want a high cut that could go below 1 kHz, I've sometimes wanted that myself for other reasons, like bi-amping or pre-conditioning the audio before a high-gain stage. In addition to the 3-band compressor trick, here are the workarounds I use - they may or may not be good enough for your application: 10-Band Graphic - pull down the high sliders, and boost the low sliders. Shelf - High Shelf goes down to 400 Hz. Cascading them gives a sharper cutoff. Cab - High Cut goes down to 500 Hz, although that assumes your cab is inserted someplace where that will do you some good. Tilt - The Tilt center frequency frequency goes down to 100 Hz, but the slope might not be steep enough for your needs. Simple EQ - it has high and low shelf, and mid peak. Set the high shelf to full cut, boost the low shelf, set mid gain to -12 dB and play with the Mid Freq to get the best results. One of these options may be good enough for your application. Hope this helps!
    1 point
  10. Disputes about the quality of Helix's tuner notwithstanding...I cannot fathom why there continues to be confusion about what to do if you don't like the onboard tuner. It's not supernatural: Buy something else. From $12 clip-ons, to rack- mounted tuners, to stand alone pedals... you can't swing a dead cat without hitting something that you can use to tune an electric guitar. Pick one and soldier on....
    1 point
  11. Snapshot Morphing Get interesting transitions and inbetween sounds by morphing between two snapshots using a foot pedal or MIDI CC-s. Assign a "Morph" parameter to the expression pedal, specify start and end snapshots and done! Morphing will adjust the involved parameters smoothly from one value to the other. If chosen snapshots have any switching involved, it will happen when crossing the half way point. If you like this, vote here: http://line6.ideascale.com/a/dtd/Snapshot-Morphing/842054-23508
    1 point
  12. Added an Idea to Ideascale to have tapered high/low cuts. Please vote it up here: http://line6.ideascale.com/a/dtd/Tapered-high-low-cuts-for-more-realistic-amp-cab-modeling/840630-23508 "Guitar speakers like Celestions tend to DROP OFF but not CUT OFF at around 70hz on the low end and about 5khz on the high end. I would love to see Line6 add a TAPERED High/Low EQ cut that would mimic this behavior and make for a much more accurate representation of a guitar speaker's behavior. Would love to see a tapered low and high cut added, preferably with three options start point, end point, and slope. So, for example you would set the start point on your high cut at 5khz, set the endpoint at 20khz, and the slope at the degree of steepness you wanted the signal to drop off between these two points. Same basic idea for the low cut. Set the start point at 70hz, set the end point at 20hz, and set the slope again for the steepness of the cut you want. The three parameters - start point, end point, and slope would allow you to tailor the high and low cuts as you saw fit to emulate different speakers and to sync up with different presets. This would make it much easier to accurately emulate the EQ characteristics of real guitar amps and speaker cabs."
    1 point
  13. Preset Rating in the Helix App http://line6.ideascale.com/a/dtd/Preset-Rating-in-Helix-App/839582-23508 It would be handy to have a preset rating system in the Helix app. It could be stars: ***** Or just simply: good / bad (+ / -) and unrated When building presets I usually end up with multiple versions of a similar sound - "Rough_01", "Rough_02" etc. Listening afterwards I'd like to give ratings, which were the keepers. Additional functionality would be to sort the presets according to rating (ascending / descending)
    1 point
  14. Allow trails while tuning http://line6.ideascale.com/a/dtd/Allow-trails-while-tuning-with-Helix/838717-23508
    1 point
  15. Good idea. Would be useful for reamping as well. Don't forget to vote for it yourself!
    1 point
  16. Here's a more generic/useful version of this idea - make the input block controllable by snapshots: http://line6.ideascale.com/a/dtd/Make-a-snapshot-able-to-control-the-input/837674-23508
    1 point
  17. Here's few that i think would be very useful... FX Spillover Preset to Preset http://line6.ideascale.com/a/dtd/FX-Spillover-when-changing-presets/836043-23508?submitted=1 FX Favorites http://line6.ideascale.com/a/dtd/FX-Favorites/836052-23508?submitted=1 Copy/Paste/Reorder Setlists http://line6.ideascale.com/a/dtd/Copy-Paste-Reorder-Setlists/836057-23508?submitted=1 Scroll Through Presets With Right Foot http://line6.ideascale.com/a/dtd/Scroll-Through-Presets-With-Right-Foot/836061-23508?submitted=1 Model Boss PS2, PS3 and PS5 Pitch Shift/Delay Pedals http://line6.ideascale.com/a/dtd/Model-The-Boss-PS2-PS3-and-PS5-Pitch-Shift-Delay-Pedals/836065-23508?submitted=1 Model Digitech XP300 Space Station http://line6.ideascale.com/a/dtd/Model-Digitech-XP300-Space-Station/836066-23508?submitted=1
    1 point
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