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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/28/2023 in Posts

  1. Don’t know what sound you are after/expect but generally speaking: A real amp consists of three parts – Preamp, Power amp and Speaker/s. That’s the signal chain and that’s the box DunedinDragon showed you above. Without deep diving the speakers are an “integrated” part of the power amp sound/response. That’s what Line6 emulates, with a microphone stuck into the speaker. If you remove the speaker, you remove part of the power amp/speaker/mic, you remove what is used to “eq/sound sculpture” the sound for that particular amp. You don’t remove the speaker in the real world. You change amp, speaker and/or mic to do that. What you can do is To replace the speaker with an EQ and sculpture the sound from there. Numerus of articles on that, search the forum for more info. You find a speaker that sounds decent to you and then place an EQ, one or more, on places in the signal chain. Depending on what I want. I sometimes place it before my amp block, between the power amp and speaker and/or after the speaker. Then tune to taste. In some cases it’s enough with just the preamp to reach the sound you want. Done that to get some nice jazz and blues tones, also for acoustic tone. Change amp, you might not like that particular AC30 Fawn. There are other AC30 alternatives in Helix, and speakers. Or a combo of the above. One thing for sure, at least for me, in my 10+ years I have been using modelers, I never liked the sound of a full amp without speakers (but what could I say, I play blues). The rest I’ve fixed with effect pedals and EQ’s. Yes, and when you turn up the gain the distortion level and some unwanted frequencies will appear that the speaker/s will filter out. If this filtering is not to taste you change amp, speaker/s and/or use an EQ to reach the sound goals. //Per
    2 points
  2. THIS is an actual AC30 Fawn which you are modeling. Notice the speaker cabinet is an integral part of the unit. Why would there be a question on this?
    2 points
  3. Thanks all, almost for sure will go with the Floor, good points made here all around.
    2 points
  4. Depends how clean are the FS... :) When the switch got a bit oxidated, or old, it start misfiring and throwing switch bouncing noise. (which means tap tempo being set randomly). I had this on both Helix floor and Helix control...
    2 points
  5. The tempo only changes if the Helix detects multiple consecutive taps. If you don’t tap the switch but just hold it until the tuner appears the tempo won’t change. Then when you tap to turn the tuner off, just tap once. Again, no tempo change.
    2 points
  6. Sounds like noise floor to me, pulled from the Stomp converters. I see volume on the Stomp is at 50%, but gain channel on the amp sounds bloody high volum. This means you are pulling a lot of noise from the floor. Try turning HX Stomp volume knob to 100%, and turn down the amp channel volume.
    2 points
  7. No, there are just some settings you need to adjust. Your HX Stomp is quite capable of sending a good input level to your DAW. Note that the input level of the guitar’s dry signal is designed to be lower assuming subsequent reamping or plugin processing. I’d start by making sure the HX Stomp output level is high, although I’m not sure that affects the USB Send level. Try adjusting the track’s input level in your DAW before recording. Also try lowering the level of your computer’s output to balance the level of the Stomp.
    2 points
  8. PierM, sorry, I mentioned in my 4th post I had tried that and it didn't help. But, good news! I didn't wipe or toss my old hard drive. Windows 10 still boots and Helix Native works on it. I did the Export Bundle in Presets/IR as suggested in datacommando's last link. So back to the new hard drive. When I go to Preferences the Presets/IRs tab is grayed out so I can't access the Import Bundle function. The only things available is Show/hide name labels, Restore Factory settings and CLOSE. Restore Factory settings doesn't seem to do anything. I clicked on My Account and saw that "Sign In" was available, so I did that. A message came up: "This is the first time you have opened Helix Native. Factory presets are being installed to your library. etc..." So it's working! I then imported the bundle saved from the old hard drive and got my user presets back. Rebooted Windows a couple of times, all looks stable. Thank you datacommando for your patience and help. I updated the thread title for future searchers.
    2 points
  9. 2 points
  10. The HX drivers arent yet compliant with Core Isolation, so they are being deprecated by W11. Try turning Memory Integrity Off in Windows Security.
    2 points
  11. Filters like wah, as well as dynamic pedals (compressors), pitch shifters, gain pedals/distortion/overdrive, they all work better just in front of Helix. So between your guitar and Helix input. FX Loop for time based effect pedals, like reverbs, echo and delays.. (or even synths like in my case :) )
    2 points
  12. With IK's impending release of the ToneX pedal, I decided to see if we really need to spend $500 on another pedal. Many of us already have an iPad and ToneX, so why not? I now have Helix pre and post Fx and MIDI working with ToneX in AUM on my iPad Air. Full integration accomplished! It'll take some work to make it practical to use, and I still have to manually load the ToneX models/presets, but first attempts have resulted in the ability to use a single toggling CC to simultaneously lower GAIN and raise VOLUME and vice versa. That means that I can create a preset for each (manually selected) ToneX model/preset and control up to 8 parameter settings using snapshots. Now that I know that I can do this with Helix, I know that I can also use the FCB/UNO2 to do the MIDI part. But that requires programming, and I won't start on that until I've got it all working from Helix. Eventually I'll create a How-To guide, but that's a ways down the road. Meanwhile, I'll keep working on the Helix integration as time allows. Life, and all that good stuff...
    2 points
  13. It helps when asking these kinds of questions to attach a copy of a sample preset so we can see what you're doing. Since you didn't, I'll assume that the MIC is on a separate Path from the Guitar. Split the Path right after the Return 2 Block (use a GAIN Block), pull down the MIX Block to complete the split and send the resulting DRY signal wherever you want.
    2 points
  14. Yes.... either use the AMP+CAB block, or separate AMP & CAB blocks. Most players don't scrutinize a real amp the way they do a modeler. Artifacts like you describe exist on real amps as well... it's called crossover distortion. Place a mic on an amp, throw the headphones on and scrutinize the tone. You probably won't like what you hear at first. I recall a discussion about Van Halen not having that in his tones.... someone posted an isolated Van Halen track and SURPRISE, there it was. FWIW... the crossover distortion is part of the "power amp". If you run a pre-amp model into a Cabinet that will often go away, but you also lose a lot of character from the amp... especially on a VOX AC15 or AC30 model where the power amp is a huge part of the character.
    1 point
  15. Just wait for support. Clearly an hardware problem.
    1 point
  16. Another one of these silly .php files. Why not save it as .wav or .mp3 so everybody can actually HEAR it?
    1 point
  17. Played my Helix direct to FOH, using Mooer Baby Bomb into the speaker of a Fender Deluxe amp for stage volume. Can't say enough great things about the Baby Bomb!! The Helix didn't let me down, but I took my LT as a backup. And it went a little bit something like this :)
    1 point
  18. For me: Helix Floor has scribble strips, as mentioned already. They make it a lot easier to see in the dark, if you have an involved show. They are also a separate source of light on a dark stage as a bonus. Like I played one show where the stage light was completely out for about 10 seconds. I was able to navigate the stage thanks to having the Helix as my beacon of light :) Also, the Floor has a 10-stomp mode, that the LT does not have, plus more effects loops. Helix LT has a flimsier expression pedal. If you don't click the pedal in to switch between EXP 1/2, then the onboard pedal will last you just fine for years and years. LT has no scribble strips, but the performance view where the snapshot names are displayed on the screen is superior to the Helix Floor if you are playing outdoors. Scribble strips are more difficult to see if you are playing outdoors, compared to the "virtual" scribble strips that LT offers. If you don't plan on switching your sounds too much throughout your show, and you don't do all these dramatic dark stage moments where you emerge out of the fog and all that theatrics -- just get the LT. If you are worried about the expression pedal not being too robust, you can always get an external pedal and use that. Save yourself like 700 USD.
    1 point
  19. you'll forget about the money soon enough... the full floor has everything you mentioned.... adds future possibilities and a more robust build. worth it.
    1 point
  20. Hi, I didn’t upgrade - I went straight in for the “full fat” version right from the off, way back in November 2016. No regrets - used daily - it does all I require (studio based). If you have the cash, don’t think about it - do it!
    1 point
  21. I don't use TAP, so I had to test this, and can confirm what @silverheadsaid. OTOH, I've had my Helix for six years, and some of the switches that I use regularly are starting to require a FIRM press, else they misfire as @PierMsaid. Might be time to get it serviced.
    1 point
  22. In that case I strongly suspect it has nothing to do with Stomp but has to do with the amp.
    1 point
  23. Guitar World has all you need to know. https://www.guitarworld.com/features/ernie-isley-that-lady-guitar-tone Hope this helps/makes sense.
    1 point
  24. Have to ask, are you comparing your mic'd up amp and pedal board through the monitors with the modelling? If not its an apples and oranges comparison. The amp in the room (with you) will always sound bigger, better, etc.....
    1 point
  25. Since you are new here you may not have yet come across the Customtone preset sharing site (see link at top of this page). Search for Shadows tones compatible with the HX Stomp. These are user created tones posted directly and not moderated in any way so you will undoubtedly find some that sound way off to you. There are a lot of reasons for that. But you should also find some that can give you hints about the setup you’re looking for. Also, you say that all your signal path impedances are set up correctly. Just for kicks, can you elaborate on that? I ask because level mismatches are a common cause of the symptoms you describe. Describe the ins and outs you are using, and the level you have set for each (line, amp, mic,…).
    1 point
  26. the GIO would still work (except the 5 lights by each foot switch) until Ventura. Bought a new Keith McMillen 12 Step yesterday and I at least have it working. still have to do the graphical part of the MS Concert so it looks right but does work peace
    1 point
  27. Man, thank you so much it really helped me, I so appreciate that, thank you so much
    1 point
  28. No, you just need to learn the WHY of those levels: https://www.sweetwater.com/insync/ideal-level-record-tracks-daw/#:~:text=For dynamic tracks%2C the recommended,during mixing%2C and so on. The short story: HEADROOM for mixing/post processing.
    1 point
  29. My battery in my JTV-59 is old and no longer holds a charge. I need a replacement, but nobody has stock on the official line6 batteries anywhere that I can find and the third party replacements are not recommended/problematic. Does anyone have a recommendation for where to get a replacement (prefer Line6 but I’ll take a 3rd party at this point.) Thanks!
    1 point
  30. The entire OS/software/driver/obsolescence is becoming a plague really. I just moved from PC to a Mac for music, and promised myself that as soon as I've a stable platform with all my plugins, drivers and OS working fine together, I will just stop updating, no matter what. That's the only way to keep control of your stuff, without being derailed by the update/upgrade dopamine addiction..
    1 point
  31. @roryburns... I think the OP has a Line 6 Helix LT, not a BOSS GT-1.
    1 point
  32. What you're describing (8 presets visible) works on Helix Floor. When set to 8 stomp switches, in Stomp mode when you hit Bank<> you get 8 presets. In Preset Mode the Bank<> display only 4 presets. Since the LT doesn't have the 10 stomp setting, AFAICT (I have Floor, not LT) you're stuck with 4 presets, accessible via the Bank<> switches in Preset mode, top or bottom depending on whether the Globals are set to Snap/Stomp or Stomp/Snap.
    1 point
  33. Wow! Thanks! I love the Quad Cortex, but the Helix stuff sounds great and is so practical! I also have aHX Stomp XL and found that it does the same things. This made my life a lot easier.....so much less tweaking. thanks again! rick
    1 point
  34. 1 point
  35. IIRC, the HXFX has two FX Loops. Put it in the second FX Loop.
    1 point
  36. Yep, since v3.0 firmware a couple of years back. Let Steve walk you through the basics in this video. Hope this helps/makes sense.
    1 point
  37. just got my stomp, have headphones on and doing the tutorials. all i know it hit 18C vintageGD and i almost lost my mind!
    1 point
  38. Hi, In my previous reply I asked - “what has changed in your workflow for things to become “suddenly broke”? Hmm… well, I’m a Mac Pilot, not Windows, but from your reply it would seem to indicate something screwed up with this hard drive problem which you didn’t mention originally. Now you state that you have been using Helix Native 3.15 for around 9 months without any problems. Then, later you say that you had “a hard drive boot problem last month”. Also, you say that “last week the problem started”. Then you updated to 3.51 in an attempt to fix the issue, but that failed. Looking at this series of events, what would you think is the fault? My best guess is that your other VST3 plug-ins, etc. are not as fussy as HXN for copy protection! Here is a similar problem on a Mac where the guy was using Migration Assistant to move his stuff to a new machine (hard drive) - you will need to completely uninstall Native and start from scratch. This is the link for the solution on the Mac - should be very similar on your PC, if not search though the previous posts on here for the Windows routine - if you don’t find it - contact Customer Support. Hope this helps/makes sense.
    1 point
  39. Helix was overbuilt from the beginning in the areas that mattered the most for future updating. The design goal was specifically to create a platform. The technology is always less important than what you do with that technology. I have many digital devices from decades ago (e.g., Lexicon PCM-60) that use "antiquated" technology by today's standards. Yet they still sound as good as they did decades ago. The main reason for wanting faster/more expensive/hotter-running DSP is to speed up the rate at which operations occur. If you find the latency in Helix unacceptable, then you may need a unit with more powerful DSP (of course, regardless of the DSP, there will always be the latency involved in A/D and D/A conversion). However, DSP alone isn't the only factor. The efficiency of the coding is crucial. Based on 3.50, it's pretty clear Line 6 has managed to increase the efficiency dramatically, or we wouldn't have better cabs that require significantly less DSP. The question is simply whether Helix produces the sounds and effects you want. If not, then you need to find a unit that does. However, if you like a different unit better, it may have nothing to do with the underlying technology, but with the people who did the coding.
    1 point
  40. Hey all, So this weekend my HX stomp's rotary encoder #2 (of 3) went bad. The switch mechanism either gave out or was crushed internally, not sure. However, it stopped receiving button presses on encoder 2 under the screen. Long story short, I spent hours looking up posts, parts, sites, and came across what seemed like a compatible match. I soldered in the part a few moments ago and it works like OEM! I hope this helps anyone looking for the part. With ALLL that said, I can't guarantee that his works for the Helix as it does the HX. I've taken apart both units a few times for maintenance, however I just can't recall what was in the Helix Floor. Likely the same part. Here's the info: Digi-Key Part Number: PEC11R-4015F-S0024-ND Manufacturer: Bourns Inc. Manufacturer Product Number: PEC11R-4015F-S0024 Description: ROTARY ENCODER MECHANICAL 24PPR Encoder Type: Mechanical Output Type: Quadrature (Incremental) Pulses Per Revolution: 24 Actuater Type: Flatted D 6mm Detent: No Built in Switch: Yes Mounting Type: Panel PCB Orientation: Vertical Termination: PC Pin DigiKey Link: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/bourns-inc/PEC11R-4015F-S0024/4499668?utm_medium=email&utm_source=oce&utm_campaign=4251_OCE23RT&utm_content=productdetail_US&utm_cid=3294583&so=79660503&mkt_tok=MDI4LVNYSy01MDcAAAGJeZwhRZlHpMczuFUKJJnBAI1cw3UpEiZQU9lj1m6djk3uIrKIfkkv702-v2drrxYburU4cGCOMTLMqBRAgNp_JnbIz01ZS88mDLPy61Z9
    1 point
  41. Hi, if you check you screenshot you can see the error is [code -8127] - a quick search will reveal this has happened on many occasions. To save lots of time re-typing the same things over, and over again - go here and read this:- Hope this helps/makes sense.
    1 point
  42. I know this is very late compared to the date of this thread. But what worked for me in the same situation (firmware 1.20, wouldn't boot past spinner screen) was to turn off the unit, and restart with the SETUP button held down. This starts up into a mode where you can calibrate and test the touchscreen. I didn't do anything else. I just turned the unit off at that point, and restarted, and this time voila, startup finished normally. I've rebooted many times since then with no issues. Hope this helps someone.
    1 point
  43. There's two ways to do this. This is assuming the Variax standard you have is the one with the JTV's hardware and not one of the original ones. If your Variax does not have any pickups it's an original Variax. If you have an original Variax and not one with the JTV hardware, only the second method will work. Method 1) First, for both methods, tune the Variax in Workbench to the banjo tuning. If you save this to the Varaix, that's what will come up when you call it up on your modeller or from your Variax. The one string that will be different which ever tuning you use will be the 5th string. The G on the 5th string is a hi G. One way to get it up that high is to make the banjo a 12 string instrument in Workbench. In Workbench, totally mute the 6th string. Then, turn down (essentially muting) all of the virtual sympathetic strings to 0 except on the 5th string. That string should be tuned up to G and there you turn down/mute the regular string to 0. This brings the virtual sympathetic string that is already made to be one octave higher, up to the hi G. This sounds terrrible by the way but the hi G will be there. Good for practice only in my opinion. Method 2) The other way is to capo the 5th string up that hi. You can raise the pitch of the 5th string as hi as you can go without it sounding terrible and then use a partial capo on the 5th string to get the proper note. The problem with this method is there are no two string capos. Well there's one but it isn't great. It's here and out of stock currently https://www.woodieshanger.com/shop/woodies-g-band-ii-2-string-partial-capo/ Schubbs has a 3 string parital capo that you can manuever to capo two strings. It's not great but it will work. Just don't bump the capo. Hope this makes sense. I'm not at home so I may not get this exactly correct. Good Luck
    1 point
  44. Still getting these constantly. And once it happens, not only HX Edit craps out but the Helix itself is freezing in, requiring a reboot. Never had this happen with any earlier FW version. I'm seriously considering going back to 3.1. Fwiw, I'm on macOS Mojave.
    1 point
  45. You can control many things with the same expression pedal. Then in each snapshot you can bypass things, or set the mix parameter of blocks to 0%. That's what I do -- in one preset I control the following things with the same EXP 2: wah, filter, vibrato, freeze, delay. The wah has auto-engagmenet when you put it past 5%. But I only use the wah in one snapshot -- in others it's mixed at 0% effectively bypassing it. I set this up before the (rather buggy) 3.15 toe down / heel down functionality. So in short, you can control many many things with the same exp pedal, it's just a matter of bypassing things / mixing things out.
    1 point
  46. Save Your Vetta!! If you still use your Line 6 Vetta Combo or Vetta HD, at some point you will have to replace the internal CR2430 lithium battery. The battery doesn't last forever, so it's an eventual issue that you'll have to address. Guess what? It isn't as hard as you think it is. Really! I've replaced the internal lithium batteries in both my Vetta HD and Vetta Combo recently, and the amps are performing excellently, and I use them regularly for gigs and rehearsal! I posted a step by step guide with pics at my website which explains exactly what I did.CLICK HERE I hope this helps a lot of Vetta Owners!! I love my Line 6 Vetta!
    1 point
  47. USB hubs have been an endless source of problems ever since I'm using them. I can't even remember how much I already had and apart from some medium-expensive Belkin one (that I unfortunately forgot in a backstage area a while ago), pretty much all of them had some issues every now and then. Fwiw, this is my experience with standard USB hubs (there's newer ones such as what, say, many people are using with their M1 Macs, also allowing you to connect various other things, those seem to do a lot better). In addition there's USB cables and for whatever weird reasons, the differences between them are staggering - and once you're using a hub, you double those potential issues. In a nutshell: Don't use hubs for anything mission critical in case it's possible.
    1 point
  48. That solution was given to me also...drive it with a separate preamp. Great idea! What bothers me though...in my case, the amp worked perfectly last May...unplugged it and put it away...last week I turned it on and zippo, just the bars on the display! WTF! Never ever had an issue with this amp. Gigged regularly with it until a few years ago so now it gets very little use...so strange!
    1 point
  49. Lockdown fever hit me hard when three days into the 5 weeks (so far) I realised I was a long way from my music gear. I searched around and found a shiny new JTV 59, a POD HD500X, a StageSource L2M and this afternoon my DT25 will arrive to complete the Dream Rig (yeah, I'm 8 years late to the party). All that was missing was a battery on the JTV. The dealer let me know it was missing and the price was lowered accordingly. After reading all the useful threads on here I ordered a Line6 battery from Thommen (and a week later a spare from Andertons) but I still wanted a couple more as they are a useful size for some LED camera lights I run. I searched the web for JTV Variax compatible batteries and bought two from different suppliers. One will simply not charge on the Variax charger and when charged elsewhere will not be recognised by the Variax. The other has charged happily from a third party charger AND the Variax recognises it. I'm using a third party charger as my Variax one just lights up with a constant red LED on power up without a battery so I have a new one on order. Both batteries are branded Cameron Sino. The one that works has the model number CS-AML710BL (part no 180-7100) It is rated at 2200mAh and is 16.28Wh just like the Line 6 battery, although the case is quite different in its detailing. The one that doesn't work in the Variax is Model No: CS-LNE100SL (Part no: BA12) It is rated at 2600mAh and 19.24Wh. I'll be keeping both as light/camera batteries and using on as a crisis spare but as far as possible using my approved batteries when every I'm not running the POD. The battery that did work came from batteryupgrade.co.uk. Thommen and Andertons.co.uk are currently ( May 1st, 2020) both showing Line6 batteries in stock. Obviously I can't guarantee the performance or safety of these batteries but the Variax seems happy to accept it. Sorry my first post is such a long waffling one. Lockdown.....
    1 point
  50. Just push-turn the knob of the parameter you want to adjust. It will get brackets around it and then just turn the knob to change the parameter value in each snapshot.
    1 point
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