geppert

Ah Grasshopper .... you have truly seen the light. Well done.

AVR = Automatic Voltage Regulator I use the one Spaceati recommended although there are lots of alternatives out there. I searched the net for the best deal. Tripplite LC1200 http://www.tripplite.com/sku/LC1200/

Spaceati turned my religious beliefs on to an AVR and I have had one ever since. I never plug my Line 6 Hybrid stuff (DT25 and SV212MKII) into anything but my AVR. I am converted (pun intended) .... and I have never had any problems. I live in a remote rural area and the power fluctuates like a yo yo. I can see that by the incoming indicator on the AVR so I am glad I have one. Considering the cost of these DT's, an AVR is "appropriate insurance" imho.

Al ... you will have better luck by opening a "support ticket" with Line 6 than asking them here. http://line6.com/support/tickets/add.html

You HAVE to use the Channel Volume(s) to control the relative level between patches. If you turn the Channel Volumes down for your desired presets then you can turn the Master Volume up HOWEVER, the extreme danger here is that you cannot permanently overwrite the 16 Model Presets on the left hand side so if you have your master volume up and you accidentally turn that left hand knob you will have a horrendous volume problem once the factory preset kicks in. It is really a bad design from that perspective. What I did to audition between the presets was to even them all out with each of the Channel Volumes and save them back into the banks ... then I could turn the M.V. up but I made a point of NEVER touching the 16 Model preset knob. If you own (and like this amp) these are the things you have to live with. I still have mine but I use a DT25 on a regular basis now and the SV 212 MKII is a backup. It still works perfectly fine. My only complaint is that it is too %$#@ heavy as all 2 x 12 combos are. The basic rule with these amps is .... if you are using that Master Volume at 12 o'clock or more you have to be CRITICALLY careful with what you are doing.

I did it ... and ... I am very happy with the result. Bigger, fatter, better, (all technical terms) sound. Hey, two is better than one right? Universal rule. I have the head and cab as opposed to the combo, so when I stack them all, besides looking very cool, it gets the head up to "shoulder height" so on amp adjustments are much easier and more convenient. With a combo this does't work so well stacking as the adjustments are on top instead of the front? Bummer. But then, if you have the POD500 with L6 Link, you don't really have to get at the amp for adjustments so a bit of a non issue with the combo. You can then spread the cabs out a bit on the floor which would also sound positive. In any event, I still like having 2 cabs. For rehearsals I don't bother with the second cab but for gigs I always take the 2 cabs. Next "leap of faith" will be a second head for stereo. Now that would be killer .... but .... expensive. A few on here have done the two cab thing, so hopefully they will respond to this topic also.

FOUR MONTHS LATER to get it back ??? ... now that's what I call "totally unacceptable".

Cgtrox ... did you ever get a reply from Terry on whether or not his SV pre might become available either custom made by his company or schematic/parts list? Second, is would seem that a SV MKI and SV MKII would require a few differences.

+1 what Zap said. I have a DT25 head & 2 DT25 Cabs, I also have 2 Spider combos, one SIV 120 and the other a SV 212 MKII Personally, I much prefer the tone from a closed back cab. The bass is much tighter. Everything "feels" punchier (technical term). Ask yourself how many open back monitors do you see either for PA or desktop (mixing) monitoring? How many bass amps are open back? However that being said, guitar amps have offered open back combos for years and many players like them. Plus, with the Head/Cab combination you split the weight up. This was a benefit for me. I am not interested in power lifting a 2x12 combo into my truck anymore ... lol !~! Remember, in the end though, it is ALL about what tone YOU prefer. Best test of course is to try each combination side by each. Then you will instantly know. The DT25 Head/Cab is a slightly more expensive proposition.

Radatats ..... where did you get that cool stand for the Peavy.

I completely agree with Silverhead. A 500 or 500X is the ONLY option I would consider.

I had what I considered an unacceptable hum in my DT25 with the stock tubes (purchased new). Mine was seriously evident in Pentode mode. It was almost completely alleviated by a set of new tubes and bias adjustment. The new tubes were not the stock EH's. I keep the original EH's as spares, however, if I was buying new again, I'd get a set of 4 matched so that I would have 2 new spares ready to go. Since one of the big factors of these amps is the the "sound" of bending the output tubes, I feel that it is a totally justified expenditure to get tubes that are really good. It is not like you have to replace them every month. There are a lot of replacement tube options (manufacturers) and this has been discussed quite a bit on this forum. One thing I would do is to check the bias and see how close the readings are between the two output tubes (matched pairs should be quite close). If you can't do this yourself then get the vendor to check it for you and re-tweek if necessary to see if this solves the problem? I also want to say that since you are buying this new, you have every right to complain to the vendor if you feel there is too much residual hum coming from the amp. I did with mine and got a replacement head, but, it still provided more hum than I thought it should have. Rather than wait for yet another replacement I just changed the %$# tubes, problem solved. As Stumblinman mentioned, there is a "certain amount" of hum and hiss too be expected from these amps. Where you draw the line is a bit of a grey area. All I know is, that when I am sitting next to my computer at home, I don't want to hear any hum from the amp. That's where I drew my line.

Well, there is this saying "If it ain't broke don't fix it" ...... maybe we should modify this in your case to say ... "if it was fixed once, don't fix it twice" .. lol I am a big believer in not messing with things if they are working ..... I remember a guy saying once "if my rig is working properly I don't even blow the dust off it" .. words of wisdom.

..... I've been playing through since 1988 with the torn-off corner of a Duracell battery box stuffed under the grill so it won't rattle. Ah Sandman .... I see you used the "deluxe solution" ... beautiful.

Geeze ... I was the "last tester" .... lol !~!

I see the Spider Valves are now on the Line 6 Legacy site and clearly stated as "no longer made" ..... Scaryfast, your answer to this topic is now clear. http://line6.com/legacy/

From my perspective the "real deal" on all this is to have both a POD HD and a DT connected via L6 link. This "completes" the (design) equation, (minus the dream rig factor with a Variax). Better still, 2 DT amps for stereo. The 2 channel variant of the DT amp as a standalone with 4 amp model options for each channel makes it very flexible but as mentioned by those above, the tone stack (knob positions) cannot be saved individually for each topology (amp voicing). IF you were using the amp simply as a clean/crunch deal between 2 channels and not needing to switch into different amp voicings, then as a standalone the DT would be quite appropriate (imho anyways). I sometimes like to set up a few presets on the POD with a foot switch assigned to deactivate the amp model so I can then switch to channel B on the DT (using it's internal preamp and onboard tone stack settings), then, using the POD as an efx pedal board so to speak. It is a different "flavour" for sure. I must admit however, that recently I have gone back to keeping everything inside the POD. The reality is that there are many ways to use this combination, and many here on this forum have found some very sweet results.

Well the small Phoenix here is that there should be some good pricing (or negotiated pricing) on those new SV's still left in dealer's inventories for those who seek this particular amp. Shall we call it "vintage" now?

One of the things you might consider is to buy a set of 4 matched power tubes .... this way you have 2 tubes for the next change over and/or a set of spares you can swap in any time.

I think perhaps this may be good for DT aficionados since the new amp, without tubes, does't compete with the DT's architecture. This may mean that the DT line will be valid for a while to come? This is not imho diminishing the approach of the Amplifi concept, just that it isn't stepping on the DT's toes all that much. I for one will always need to bend tubes in my guitar amp (at gig volumes) but something like the Amplifi might work as a bedroom levels amp for me at some point? I actually use a Spider IV for this purpose now. I will be interested in hearing one of these new amps when it shows up at my local dealer's store.

There is always the Power Attenuator (Speaker attenuator) route to consider …. few on the forum are fans of LVM.

Colonel Forbin ….. PERFECT … you figured it out ….. sign me up.

Ahhh .,… the old "melting tube problem".... a classic … will definitely cause performance deterioration …. lol !!! Lucky you had the JJ's on hand.

Personally I much prefer the head/cab version. The closed back cab is so much "tighter", plus you get the bonus of breaking up the weight. I also (eventually) ended up with with 2 cabs. The stack of 2 cabs plus head is really nice especially if you use a beam blocker in at least one cab.

Stumblinman … yes, that really makes a lot of sense to buy 4 at once. Good move.