psarkissian

:)

For the 89F, 30-51-0689 for Hi-E/Lo-E 30-51-0690 for A/B 30-51-0691 for D/G For all JTV, Shuriken and Standards, 11-00-0010.

"I didn't see more than one kind so I figured all the piezo saddles were the same!",... not for the 89F. They are paired off,... Hi-E/Lo-E, A/B, D/G. Have to get the correct ones and insert in the correct paired order, or it won't sound right.

Take it to an authorized service center, so they can go through it all correctly. Heater fuse, old tubes bringing down the heater fuse, and about four other things it could be, none of which is going to be a self repair. Tubes should be changed out once every 18 months on average, depending on use. Please keep your fingers out of the insides of these, the shock hazard is too great. It lights up, so it sounds like the processor board is working.

Still available. Check with your local authorized service center.

String tension to piezo is key to the piezo having good mechanical to electric transfer. Optimum string set gauges are 10's and 11's. After string tension and piezos, the rest is DSP. Workbench HD is good for adjusting things where you want it.

Try eBay for a unit being sold for parts only.

Care fully pull up the knobs, make certain the retainer nuts holding the potentiometers are snug and tight. If that doesn't work, it will need to be checked out by a Line 6 authorized service tech.

Exactly. Those too. Thank you cruisinon2.

https://line6.com/find/service_center/ Yamaha de México, S.A. de C.V. Servicing: Electronics,Guitars Eje 5 oriente JavierRojo Gomez #1149 Colonia Guadalupe del Moral D.F. C.P. , 09300 (55)58 04 06 00 info@yamaha.com.mx

Keep away from florescent lights.

Thank you silverhead. And if I recall correctly,... Custom 1, toggle-1, Alt Tune on Model, gives you the model for the 69. Yes, there is a model for the 69 in the 69 (or 59, or 89/89F). I almost never use it except test purposes once every blue moon. And you can always go into Workbench HD, and modify it even further.

That's good to know, one less thing to think about.

Going through an amp, yes. A different amp with different set of speakers in it might emphasize a different set of resonant harmonics. That's where some filtering comes in handy.

-Dual Tone Effect, where you are hearing the strings in standard tuning and the alternate tuning out the amp, together. Typical with 1/2 step down as it more dissonant to begin with. -500X tuning might not be as dialed-in as it could be, making Dual Tone Effect worse. -Variax string tuning has to be tuned very close and dialed-in for custom or Alt Tune to sound alright when doing a 1/2 step difference.

So long as the cabinets are 8-Ohms each. Less than that and there will be a problem.

Sure, AlNiCo is fine.

Program for the heads are different, and slight difference in other places to accommodate different 3rd party cabinets. Modeling program for the heads is designed for that, program for the combos are not. Been that way since Spider III and Spider Valve. As I've said before, these are not all analog tube amps, so you can't get away with doing the kinds of things we used to do in the all analog tube amp days (circa early 1970's). Had this chat with a audio test analyst guy here, as we both used to work at JBL (or JBL/UREI in my case). Was picking his brain a while back for my prior comment, as he was dealing with some Neodymium speaker testing that week. Hence my prior comment.

Neck wood density, head stock shape, string gauge and tension, all play apart in how the neck plays a part in the sound. Being a bolt-on neck, it by it nature does not have the same acoustical coupling as a set neck. The whole bolt-on neck idea was about making manufacturing easier to mix and match necks and bodies, do quick swap repairs, and had little to do with sound. Bolt-on necks are a recent thing in the history of string instrument, introduced by Leo Fender as I recall. Set neck was the standard way for almost a millennia until then. Some like less sustain, because they can add to it with a sustain effect. Once resonance in it, it's hard to take it out. Yes, the tail piece and bridge being the other end of the guitar play their roles in the sound as well. Interaction of resonances and tensions. Too stiff, it pinches and deadens to note. Too loose and it get floppy, droopy and dies away. It's about finding that happy mid ground.

Sounds like it's time to log a Support ticket, but register the guitar in your account first.

What silverhead said.

Can't do that. Each program board is branded, the program is set up for the output load of that type. Can't turn a combo into a head without output impedance issues that can lead to damage or total failure.

MkI or MkII? Any of the LED's light up?

That's right. duh. my bad.

Plug in, light goes on, then goes off,... battery is in and charging. After sometime it will start blinking when it's charged and done.