pfsmith0

I use a very long cable as well for the SPDIF connection and noticed no latency. Time delay thru a cable is roughly 2ns/ft or less, so latency due to cable delay will be negligible. The biggest problem will be whether or not your system can drive a cable that long. It should if it meets spec.

I'd think the XLR input of the M-Track already has a mic preamp built into it. I mean, what else is an XLR connection good for on a sound interface like that? Perhaps this is a stereo/mono thing. The 1/4" is giving you a summed L/R mono signal while the XLR is only giving you a single L or R signal. Try putting a noise gate/compressor/other mono FX on the last stage to see if it changes anything. Turn it on but leave the controls at default (I think). You don't want to color your signal but only to sum the L/R signals together.

In guitar lingo it seems "gain" is increase in signal level before the preamp, allowing the signal to drive the preamp into distortion/saturation when set high. I've also seen this called "drive". "Volume" is increase in signal level after the preamp, usually just providing increased, um, volume. But, yeah, I get your point. Nomenclature like this drives me bananas at times. In order to communicate with other guitarists I've had to resort these terms defined as above.

Be sure your two inputs are set to Guitar and Variax. The default is Guitar and Same, which doubles the signal and can cause all sorts of nasty digital distortion. This made a HUGE difference in the out-of-the-box sound for me.

The problem with using the FX loop is you go thru another set of data converters which is, by far, the biggest degradation to your signal. I use the Studio EQ with all the freq settings set to flat. Use the gain control, which is "clean" gain, to set the volume boost. I usually use 5dB for solo work. I put it at the very end of the signal chain.

Nope. No way for the HD500 to control the volume of the CD/MP3 input port.

I do not use the stereo capabilities of the HD500 and just plug the left XLR into the mixer board.

Please take a look at http://foobazaar.com/podhd/toneGuide/. It has lots of tips for fixing thinness. It may be as simple as using the Mid-Focus EQ at the end of your chain.

To boost volume I either use the Studio EQ or Mid Focus EQ (if I want to fatten up the lead sound), both at the end of the chain. A 5dB gain seems to work well for me.

Hi Outlaw, yes, you can just plug in your guitar and your headphones, select a patch and start playing. But most of the patches are there to demo the capabilities on the unit and aren't very "musical". You'll need to tweak them a bit to get them to sound nice. Downloading some customtones from the LIne6 web site may be a good option to get you started. Hooking it up to the laptop and using the Edit software helps a whole lot in visualizing what's going on and how the signal chain works. The PodHD will look like a new soundcard when plugged into the computer via USB. You'll need some sort of software to record the signal coming from the HD500 "soundcard". Regarding plugging in your computer speakers, I don't know how good they are, but you probably won't get any gut wrenching shredding tones out of those. As long as your expectations are reasonable, you'll do OK. Since they are powered speakers you would best be served by plugging them into the L/R 1/4" outputs, not the headphone output. You may need to change the output level switch from "Amp" to Line" to get more signal.

Yep, plugging it in blind caused mine to break. That's EXACTLY what happened <sigh>....

This happened to me as well. All I did was plug in the USB cable slightly off-center and "snap", the black plastic center piece fell out.I was able to replace the connector without any issues at all, but I'm used to soldering and taking things apart (MSEE degree - old school, back when we actually touched circuits). I removed the PCB to get access to the top and bottom layers and had to suck solder off both sides of the old thru-hole USB connector to get it out without tearing up any traces. You don't need to replace the USB chip if all that's broken is the connector. A great USB connector replacement can be bought here from Mouser. In case the link doesn't work, the Mouser part # is 649-61729-1011BLF. They cost less than $1 USD each.

For my acoustic instruments I don't use the amp sims at all. Just a few FX blocks. I use the XLR or 1/4' outputs directly into a PA.

Get on amazon.com and search for "HD500 case" and you'll get lots of pertinent hits.

That's what I do for acoustic instruments. No amp sim at all, just a few FX.

Audacity is reasonably lightweight and allows you to monitor audio levels. It indicates when clipping occurs, if you look close enough.

Also, note that with your signal chain you will be using the switches in FS1-8 mode, not ABCD mode. That is, each foot switch will turn on/off an FX. Patches would then be switched in using the bank up/down switches followed by an FS press. That's probably more foot dancing than you want in the middle of a song so you don't have to worry about delays. Calling up a new patch would only occur between songs. Within a song you will only have the 8 on/off switches, and the pedal(s), available to you. These operate instantly.

FYI, the HD500x has a 5-15msec mute each time a new patch is called in. Some have had no issues and can work around it. I have all sorts of issues and attempt to configure my signal chain so I never have to call in a new patch in the middle of a song.

1) You could sacrifice your volume pedal or get a 2nd (external) pedal and use it to "blend" the two signal paths via the mixer (so it doesn't use up another FX block). Toe = Overdriven path. Heal = Clean path. It's not actually a "switch" per se but you can use it like one. It also has the benefit of allowing you to blend the two channels at various mix levels to perhaps give you some additional tones you don't current get. 2) That's a cool GT-10 feature. I have not yet found that in any of the HD500x FX, but someone here will undoubtedly point it out if that is available. 3) Some people have had good results using an amp sim into a real amp. Others not so much. The consensus seems to be to NOT use the cabinet/mic sims and perhaps to ONLY use the amp pre sims (doesn't include the power amp sims). Start with those choices and tweak from there. Others say to just switch to one of the output modes made specifically for driving an amp. I go to a PA so don't have any firsthand experience one way or the other.

Stumblinman is correct. A knob's position isn't loaded in until it is moved. That's why I never use the knobs (except Master Volume which is not a digitized control).

Scias, I've done that for years (only signal path A and using the L XLR output) and haven't felt like I've been missing anything (although ignorance is bliss). My last post-mixer effects are delay followed by reverb (both stereo). Reverb still sounds full, delays work as expected (but I don't use any Ping-Pong delays).

I do this all the time but only connect the left XLR to the mixer . I know I lose the right channel but I don't attempt to utilize stereo and what I don't hear doesn't seem to bother me. Everything sounds great.

Also, many of the FX have mix controls. Use the pedal to change the mix from 100% to 0% on ALL the FX of interest to get wet/dry sounds, respectively. It saves on DSP horsepower that a dual-amp setup uses.

And be sure your inputs are set to Guitar/Variax. The default is SAME, which can give you an unintended 6dB boost.

Your IO interface should be able to drive the Guitar In impedances without any issues. Aux should work fine as well. They're all relatively high and easy to drive.