rd2rk

The "Volume" level controlled by the "BIG KNOB" occurs in the digital realm, before the final DA conversion. It has been demonstrated by geeky science types that lowering the level on the "BIG KNOB" affects tone. So, IDEALLY, you want to keep the "BIG KNOB" maxed. That setting is UNITY Gain - the (electrical) level IN = the (electrical) level OUT. In REALITY, you gotta have much better ears than mine to tell the difference when using the "BIG KNOB" to control level. The thing to do is to try it yourself. Set up a simple (NOT hi gain) preset. Start with the "BIG KNOB" maxed, and back it off a bit at a time. Be certain to compensate each time by raising the ACTUAL (what comes out of the speakers) volume level, to avoid having your ears tricked by the Fletcher-Munson effect (google it). If you can honestly say that you hear a difference, leave the "BIG KNOB" maxed, or assign it to different Outputs (same thing - Unity Gain). If you CAN'T hear a difference, go ahead and use it to control Amp Level. I leave it maxed (assigned to the active outputs). Not that I can hear a difference, it just works for me, as I have a Floor and set the output level on my PC112+ using an expression pedal and MIDI. If I was using a traditional MV tube amp and a Rack, I'd have to walk back to the amp/rack to adjust the level anyway, so I'd probably use the "BIG KNOB" so as to avoid changing the relationship between the pre and master sections of the amp.

This is the type of layout I use when I want all 3 channels (Nrm/Brt/Jmp) of an amp in one preset. Whether I put one or two amps in each path depends on what other effects I'm using in the path. If I've got a bunch of high DSP effects in PATH A, I put one amp at the end of that path, two at the beginning of PATH B. If I've got the high DSP effects in PATH B I put two amps at the end of PATH A and one at the beginning of PATH B. It's all about DSP - each path has it's own dedicated processor. There's a chart of DSP usage for the different amps and effects. I don't know where it is off-hand, you'll need to search for it. If you want everything handy in one Mode, combine bypass switches and Snapshot switches in Stomp Mode. Else use all 8/10 switches in Stomp mode for bypass, and all 8 switches in Snapshot Mode for Snapshots, and toggle the Modes using the Mode switch. Use Stomp Mode to bypass single effects, and Snapshots for multiple FX bypass. Remember that both Stomps and Snapshots can modify up to 64 parameters each, so there's never really any need to use more than one copy of a given effect unless you're stacking them. There's really a lot of options available, but no matter how many options and how many processors are available, SOMEBODY will come up with a preset that goes over the top! It's human nature to push the boundaries. The only real limitations are in the physical and human realms. You can only fit so many switches into a box of a certain physical size. If I had 32 switches and 2048 presets with 32 snapshots each, the box would be way too big, and I'd never be able to remember what they all did anyway!

HX Stomp has one processor. Helix has two. If a Helix Preset has six blocks or less, it will import UNLESS the DSP total for the blocks exceeds the HX Stomp DSP limitations. If it has more than 6 blocks it won't import. Customtone has tones built for Helix, and tones built for HX Stomp. Native has a Hardware Compatibility mode. Click the Settings Icon (the little gear thingy in the lower left corner). Select the Hardware Compatibility tab. Select HX Stomp. The rest of the defaults should be OK. Now you can make compatible presets in Native.

Since you have the right versions, the next step is to do a factory reset. If that doesn't work, time to call support.

Click the ?,select About. On the top is the HXS FW version. Under the picture is the HX Edit version? are they the same? If not DL and install HX Edit v2.92. That should solve the problem.

I just realized that we didn't directly answer your question. Yes, it's either a split for an IR out, or parallel effects. Here's the entries on Ideascale: https://line6.ideascale.com/a/ideas/search?templateId=0&query=path+splits You'll need to log in to vote, and there's at least 3 entries for multiple splits per path. Vote for ALL of them. And if you ever post an idea there, be sure to do a search first. Not searching first is how there gets to be multiple versions of the same idea, which waters down the votes.

As I understand it, you can have multiple path splits on the Fractal devices. Sure would be nice to have that on Helix! I seem to remember that being something I up-voted over on Ideascale. Long ago. Maybe in v3.0?

Put the FX Loop L block and the FX Loop R blocks in Path A. Pull the FX Loop R block down to create a Path B. Using an Insert cable - 1/4" TRS to dual 1/4" TS - plug the TRS end into the SEND jack. The TS ends should be labeled. If not, usually the gray or black is TIP, Red is RING. Plug the TIP (Left) jack into the input of the effect you want in FX Loop L. Take the Output from that effect into the L/Mono Return with a simple TS cable.. Plug the RING (Right) jack into the input of the effect you want in FX Loop R. Take the Output from that effect into the RIGHT Return with a TS cable.. Make sure that the RETURN setting in Global Settings>Ins/Outs is set to RETURN, Loops set to INST (if using Stomp pedals, LINE (usually) for Studio/Rack equipment). Use the Mixer Block Pan and Level settings to control the stereo (or L/R Amps) placement and levels. If you're just using one amp use the L/Mono Out set to INST (Global Settings >Ins/Outs) for Amp Input, or LINE (usually) if going into an amp's FX Return. That's it! .

Good advice here. I'd add that the Loop tends to add some noise to external distortion pedals. You may need to use both the Noise Gate on the Input, and another AFTER the Loop. You'll want the Global Settings for the Loop set to whichever option, Line or Inst, that adds the least noise. Usually that's Inst, but try both. You may also want to try (because Global Settings works in S/R pairs), using one Loop for SEND and the other for RETURN, so you can set them separately. Of course, that eats two blocks, but hopefully v3.0 will arrive soon. Since the S/R Blocks are low DSP, and you wouldn't be using an Amp, it could be a wash. Moot point until v3.0 arrives,, but you can experiment with it until then. Pray for v3.0! SOON! SOON! SOON!

So, what have you heard from L6 support?

Does it have a PAN block? Same difference I guess. Bummer to have to blow a block on this, but at a certain point your needs go beyond the capabilities of the unit and move into the realm of it's more expensive and powerful (and larger) siblings. Maybe you can trade the HXFX for an HX Stomp? around the same price and size, getting 8 blocks and Command Center in v3.0.................

I don't have a variax, but it could very well be part of the problem. That's a good question for Tech Support. I also know that you can get a "POP" sound when making sudden radical changes to certain amp settings (DRIVE in particular). This is not just a Helix thing, it happens on some real world amps too.

You probably don't want to hear it, but you REALLY SHOULD READ THE MANUAL! PODGO has 6 switches, plus MODE and TAP/TUNER. Depending on the MODE, the switches can be used to: Stomp Mode - 6 block bypass switches Snapshot - 4 Snapshots Preset - 4 Presets per bank, bank selected using the UP/DOWN switches PODGO, while not having all the options of it's bigger siblings, is anything BUT all preset based. I don't even own one. This is just what I learned about PODGO from 5 minutes reading the manual. You should also sign up over on The Gear Page. The Digital and Modeling Forum has a lengthy dedicated PODGO thread with HUNDREDS of participants discussing their experiences with PODGO, and answering each other's questions.

Do you really NEED 8 Snapshots, or are you only doing that because you don't understand the previous responses? You've got 8 Stomp buttons (10 if you're using a Floor - please be specific - sorry if I missed that info). By touching a button while the Block is highlighted you'll be asked if you want to assign that button as bypass for that block. You can now bypass that block IN ANY SNAPSHOT. In Command Center, you can assign any Snapshot to any button not already assigned. Once you've done these things, in Stomp Mode you'll see whatever combination of block bypass and snapshots that you've configured. You're not confined to 4 UP and 4 DOWN. If you want a block that's OFF in a given snapshot to be ON, just press it's bypass button. If you want the block to STAY ON between Snapshots regardless of it's saved status in different Snapshots, press the ACTION button and set Snapshot Bypass to OFF. Now, if you change the block's ON/OFF Status in a Snapshot, it will remain that way between Snapshots. SUMMARY - you DO NOT need to use Snapshots to turn blocks ON/OFF. However, if you have 32 blocks, you've only got 8 (or 10) switches, so you need to PLAN IN ADVANCE how you'll most likely use the FX. Assign switches to FX that you're likely to want to change INDIVIDUALLY on the fly, assign FX bypass COMBINATIONS to Snapshots.

Preset settings are just that, they are not GLOBAL to all Presets. Unless you create a TEMPLATE Preset that you use as a base for creating new Presets, you'll need to create new Presets from scratch. If you're not using a split path with the resultant mixer block, just set the RIGHT Output Level on the Output Block to -160db or whatever full left/counter-clockwise is on the HX FX. Or, if the Output Block has only a PAN and LEVEL (as it appears in Native. Remember, I don't have a physical HXFX), then just PAN the signal all the way LEFT.

Unless you're doing something different from my suggestions, the "active" output is being controlled with the A/B levels in the Mixer block. It can also be controlled from the Output Block. "A" is Left,, "B" is Right. Your choice, whatever works best for your needs.

Somewhere on Ideascale there's a suggestion about creating a separate MIDI layer that could be configured independently from presets. VOTE for it!

Which unit? The Stomp or the amp? They both seem to be working fine. In either case, you'd be better off contacting the manufacturers. Sweetwater's support staff are not likely to be knowledgeable enough on either unit to be of much help. Kind of like bringing your new Tesla to the "We fix all makes and models!" car repair shop. From what I've heard, Panama doesn't have much of a support structure, but L6 definitely has good people. Give L6 support a shot.

Just as a final check, 4cm: Guitar>HXS L/Mono IN>FX>FX Loop L Block (Return Type=Return)>HXS SEND>Amp Input>AMP FX SEND>HXS L/Mono RETURN>FX>HXS L/Mono Out>AMP FX RETURN If both FX loops work, Amp FX Loop ON, Return Type=Return, FX Loop Block L, and you have 4cm wired correctly, all cables tested, there's no reason I can see for it not to work. Short of having my hands on your rig (do you live in Colorado?), there's nothing more I can do. Sorry. Good Luck!

We're cross posting! To be sure - you tested the HXS Loop using a 4cm preset, just pulled the cable from the HXS SEND to the AMP INPUT from the Amp end and plugged it straight in to the HXS L/Mono Return where the Amp's FX SEND normally (in 4cm) goes? Guitar>HXS L/Mono Input>FX Loop Block>HXS SEND>HXS L/Mono RETURN>HXS L/Mono OUT>Amp Return

Have you tested the HXS FX Loop the same way?

If you have the FX assigned to Stomp buttons, there's no problem turning things on and off on the fly. If you turn something ON, then switch Snapshots to one where the effect is OFF, but you want it to stay ON, just un-check Snapshot Bypass in the FX Block's properties (right click the Block). You can't set that property separately for every possible scenario, so, yeah, some advance thought is needed as to how you'll be using the Preset. You can also set Stomp Mode switches to Snapshots, so If you have 3 Snapshots, you can have 5 (LT, 7 Floor) FX Bypass switches. Is there some other scenario that is troublesome?

In Global Settings>MIDI/Tempo, check the setting on Tempo Select. I'm not sure which setting you need because I never use the Tempo functions, try them all!

I looked for a bypass switch and didn't see one. Maybe footswitchable only? But he says he's been running a Carbon copy through it, so.... OP - test the HXS Loop the same way I said to test the amp's FX Loop.

If you're only using the LEFT FX Loop, you should have a TS cable from the HXS SEND to the AMP INPUT, and a TS cable from the AMP SEND to the HXS LEFT/MONO RETURN. What happens if you go direct to the amp input, then run a cable directly from the AMP FX SEND to the AMP FX RETURN? If there's no output, you've got a bad fx loop on the amp.