rd2rk

5. While holding both the Upper and Lower Knobs, turn on HX Stomp. Wait for "Will rebuild Presets..." to appear and let go. - This will rebuild presets manually. That might fix it. If not, it's possible that the presets have become corrupted somehow.

If the noise is coming through the tube amps, it could be a bad tube. Without hearing the noise myself, that's all I've got! Good Luck!

Not a problem on mine. Do a complete backup and a setlist backup (just to be safe), then try a factory reset (reboot holding fs9+fs10).

Reviving a zombie thread is probably not the best way to get help with this. A high pitched noise says USB to me. Are you connected via USB? If you pull the USB connection, does it go away?

I have not used that specific device, but MIDI is MIDI. I had a quick look at the MM manual. If a device is configurable (it is, use Custom Mode), can send the required MID Messages (it can) on a specific MIDI Channel (it can), and is compatible HW-wise (it is , 5-pin MIDI DIN), then it can be used to control any of the Helix family of devices. Helix is a relatively simple MIDI device. All available commands are detailed in the MIDI section of the manual. If you don't have a basic understanding of how MIDI works, the MM has a decent manual with simple explanations of the basic MIDI functions. You WILL have to RTM, both the HW and SW manuals, and refer to the Helix manual when programming the MM. It looks like a very nice device, and the scribble strips are an exceptional feature. I've used an FCB1010 (and others) for over 10 years, and I sure wish my FCB had scribble strips! I'll be happy to answer any questions you have about using MIDI with Helix but, as I said, you're going to have to RTM yourself to learn how to program the MM.

One parallel path per processor (Path A, Path B) with as many effects as you have available DSP on that path. IOW - one split on Path A (upper) and one split on path B (lower).

Nope, doesn't work that way.

https://www.sadites.com/ https://www.rhettshull.com/ https://richiecastellano.com/ That's just three. YouTube has hundreds of Helix How-tos.

https://line6.ideascale.com/a/index Before posting a new idea, please search to see if it's already been proposed. If 100 people vote on the same idea presented 20 different ways, it looks like only 5 people care about it! Also, post your ideas one at a time. I for one NEVER vote for multple combined suggestions.

Typically, to use MIDI over USB requires a Host - computer, iOS device or dedicated Host Box. Neither of the videos available on their site using the AXE shows MIDI over USB, they're both using the standard 5-pin DIN connector. Try using that if you don't want to be tethered to a computer. It may be that the USB connection on your device is only intended for updates and programming. There's no manual, so..... Their editor does not include a MIDI Monitor function, so that's a good indicator. I have an FCB1010 connected to one of my computers by USB to use as a controller for my Stomp and VST sims. I use MIDIOX (FREE) to route the signal from the FCB USB connection to the Stomp's USB connection. You can also use MIDIOX to test if I'm right about what I said above about their USB implementation.

DISCLAIMER: I never do it this way, I always record MIDI as part of a performance. I had to figure this out, which was GOOD! The only part I don't get is setting position. It has something to do with SNAP TO GRID (I think that's what it's called) preferences. LIVE it'll save wherever you make the change. You'll have to read the manual and figure that out, I've spent as much time on this as I have today. I want to play with the new 3.0 stuff! Create a MIDI track Set the MIDI Output to Helix Base Channel Insert a NEW MIDI ITEM Resize to the desired length Open the MIDI Editor - ctl+alt+E Right click in the MIDI Editor and select INSERT NEW MIDI EVENT Set the properties to: TYPE=Control Change POSITION=time at which you want the event to occur CHANNEL=Helix Base Channel (default 1) CONTROLLER=69 VALUE=Snapshot# CC SHAPE=Square Click ADD or OK I had a send set to a track with Native, and the MIDI Output set to HX Stomp, and it changed both as expected.

If it SOUNDS good, it IS good. No rules.

The reason there's more than one DI at more than one price point is that they DON'T all sound the same. Same with pre-amps on mixing boards and Audio Interfaces. Pro Sound people go round and round about this stuff. Wanna go crazy? Check out the Pro Sound/Recording threads on GearSlutz. OTOH, if you can get past all the vitriol, there's a lot of knowledgeable, experienced people over there. I have a couple of $29 passive Pyle PDC21 boxes. To my stage volume modified ears, they sound flat (no coloration or noise). YMMV, but Amazon has a great returns policy.....

Did you reboot the HXFX after the update? If yes, just for giggles, do a factory reset and reboot. If it's still broke, contact support.

Yes again, same principle. There used to be a feature of this forum that posted a notification at the bottom of the page when someone had posted since you opened the thread. I wish it still worked......

He said "CLEAN BOOST" and GAIN in the same question. Confusing, but both are accomplished the same way, by assigning the switch to the parameter and using the MIN/MAX settings.

Yes, but as that affects gain staging downstream, a better way is to assign the Output Block level to the toggle switch, and use the MIN/MAX settings.

Make sure you're on the latest (v2.92) FW. Do a Factory Reset followed by a reboot. If it still happens, open a support ticket.

He said a lot. I summed the details. It's all good.

Yes, IF you have sufficient DSP for your chosen blocks. Snapshots will do it too. Just save one snapshot with all 3 ON, and another with all 3 OFF.

The SENDS are UNBALANCED, and are NOT affected by the Global EQ. Since you're not after a stereo signal, create the split using a MONO Block, and/or set the 3/4 out on Path B to MONO. Use a TS cable from the SEND jack to a DI to FOH. If you're doing your own mixing from the stage, it (using a DI) might not even matter. I'd call it "best practice" to use a DI. Use a TS cable to your monitor/FRFR or, if you're worried about noise or loss of tone, and the FRFR has a balanced input, use TRS. Set the SEND level to whatever works best for FOH. Set up as above, I did not notice the level drop that you described. Changing the "SEND/Return L" level worked as expected, lower for INST, higher for LINE.

I think it sounds better. However, with experience and the help of many here and over on TGP. I've become much better at quickly creating better sounds. I've also improved my playback systems, which is a major factor in making ANY modeler sound good. If you're referring to the stock presets, yes, they sound better too. Again, and again, you're not going to know if Helix is right for you until you get one so that you can spend quality time with it. LOTS more than 5 minutes. If you spend time on other forums (we're fans here), there's lots of people say that Helix is awful compared to XYZ. Others say they've spent time a/b ing Helix and XYZ, and the differences are splitting hairs. Others say the differences come down to personal taste, or the mystical "feel" factor. The amount of time you'll spend confirming what I've just said would MUCH better be spent trying it yourself. And, if you're planning your test around the sound that comes out of your 3" bargain basement "studio monitors" and your iPhone earbuds, well.....

People have different expectations as to what "rolling off the Volume knob" should do. Assuming that you're running Guitar>Stomp L/Mono Input>1/4" Out>Amp Input: In Global Settings>Ins/Outs, are the Input and Output Levels set to INST? If you're using 4cm, the S/R also needs to be set to INST. Also, consider your pickups. High gain pickups will react differently than lower gain PAF and SC pickups. Which overdrives are you talking about? While it's mostly a "tone" thing, some ODs (808 is one) require a lower impedance setting in the Input-Z setting of the Input Block. Try a preset with the OD FIRST in the chain. The first block's impedance sets the way the pickups are loaded by the OD. Wired directly (no wireless, nothing between the guitar and input) with the OD first in the signal chain and the In-Z set to AUTO should give you the results you're looking for. There's tricks you can use to load the pickups for the chosen OD when it's not first in the signal chain, but first try my suggestion to see if what you expect is possible. This (impedance) is a complicated subject. You might want to check the Helix thread over on The Gear Page, Digital and Modeling forum. Search for "impedance". User @Tito83 has discussed this at great length.

If you've researched this, you know that some people hear what you're attempting to describe, and some don't. I don't. I never did, and I've had my Floor since 2016, and my Stomp for almost two years. The Rack, Floor, LT and Stomp are the same in terms of basic sound. My only suggestion is to buy one somewhere with a good returns policy, make sure it's updated to v2.92, and try it out with simple Amp/Cab presets. Connect it DIRECTLY to whatever you're using as a monitor. Plug it into a good quality power strip with EMI/RFI filtering. Use quality cables. Try different guitars. If you still hear the noise, then maybe Helix isn't for you. It happens. Good Luck!

You seem to be fairly knowledgeable, and you've covered most of the bases. Without having your rig in hand, this is all I can offer. Un-install ALL of your L6 SW. Make sure to delete ALL of the L6 directories and make sure that the drivers are gone. Using something like CCleaner, clear out all junk, and clean your registry. Reboot the computer. Download and install, with ALL options selected, a fresh copy of the HXEdit v2.92 SW. Reboot again. Try a couple of USB cables. Turn off everything in the Startup section of Settings>Apps. If it still doesn't work, it's got to be either a problem with your Windows install, or a HW issue. You didn't provide specifics of your laptop (make, model, processor, memory, etc). This might help if someone else has a similar system, and will be required if you open a support ticket. Good luck!