rd2rk

What I said about the first effect determining pickup loading applies to REAL effects, Helix hardware, etc. Your pickups using plugins like Native are always going to be loaded by the AI input, which is effectively the first effect, and will be 1M. Certain FX, as Sascha said, won't sound "authentic" with the pickups loaded at 1M.

Impedance determines how the pickips are "loaded" if you're connected by cable (not wireless). The input impedance of the first first effect the signal hits determines the pickup load. Some effects are designed to sound best with the pickups loaded relative to their input impedance. It's complicated, LONG threads here and on TGP. Input LEVEL is just how hot the input signal is. Too hot it overloads the AI's preamps. IOW, different animals. Do what sounds best to you.

The Instrument setting on the 18i20 input works fine with regular pickups. As Sascha said, if you're using actives it doesn't much matter. You may even need the Input Pad with actives.

Are you using a filtered power strip? Are there appliances/fluorescents/rheostats on the wall circuit? Is your cell phone or router near the HX? Have space aliens been spotted nearby?

That's crazy! Assuming that you're on the latest FW (2.92) I'm going to suggest a factory reset, only because the support tech will probably suggest it. If that doesn't work, call support or open a ticket. Include the video link. VERY strange!

Didn't we already do this?

There also seems to be an uncommon number of problems related to those Ryzen boards. Check to see if your OS drive is configured as drive0 (zero).

In Global Settings>Ins/Outs, check that the level on the 1/4" Outs is set correctly for the amp's inputs. There's not much info in the manual (per expected Input Level), but make sure you've got all your switches right. Just turn OFF the Global EQ. Any chance the speakers are wired out of phase? (I know, not likely, but....) Attach a sample preset.

Can't duplicate that. Attach the preset (NOT a screenshot) and I'll have a look at it.

A Toggling footswitch sends one message on Press/Release, and another on the SUBSEQUENT Press/Release. If it works as you described, you're turning it ON and OFF in the same Press/Release. That's called a MOMENTARY footswitch, and is the reason why it's not working. Here's the MIDI functions for those switches, from the manual: A footswitch 80 down=0 up=127 B footswitch 82 down=0 up=127 TAP footswitch 81 off=0 on=127 Note the difference between the actions. A & B are MOMENTARY. TAP is TOGGLING.

Native, being a plugin, does not have hardware sends and returns. That's why you can't add an S/R Block. To do what you want, you'd need to put your preamp before the input on your AI (audio interface). To avoid the AI's preamp, your AI would need to have an "INSERT" input, which not all AI's have. It might be possible to set the AI's input to INSTRUMENT, but you'd need to check with the AI's documentation to see if that cuts out it's preamp, or just changes the input level. Most decent AI's have relatively clean preamps, but the higher the quality of your AI the cleaner the preamp will be.

The reason there are 12 bazillion IRs on the market is that one man's "mud" is another man's "chunk". And since those terms are entirely subjective, each company has it's own way of identifying which of it's IRs sound like whatever they call it. Ownhammer has at least two ways of doing it. From the manual for the bundle that I have: “BOLD” is a mix that has a forward midrange with a slightly relaxed top and bottom end. “BROWN” is a more pleasing derivative of the “brown sound”, using a similar hardware configuration. “CL1” is a page from classic rock, using only condensers and ribbons which are pulled back a little from the cab. “CL2” is a thicker and slightly darker version of CL1. “CUT” is comprised of an on-axis 57 and off-axis 57 mic combination. “CUT+121” adds a 121 mic to the Quick-Start CUT mix recipe. “CHUNK” is a more “fat” sounding version of the BOLD mix. “JPS” is a ‘Studio’ voiced mix using hardware utilized by a legendary Long Island prog rock/metal guitar icon. “JPL” is the darker ‘Live Sound’ counterpart based on documented placements used for this artist’s touring rig. “JS” is a multi-mic configuration created by Jon Symons. “MDRN” is comprised of a 57 + 421 mic combination. “OH1” is comprised of a 57 + 121 mic combination. “OH1F” is comprised of a more “fat” sounding 57 + 121 mic combination. “OH2” is comprised of a 421 + 121 mic combination. “OH2F” is comprised of a more “fat” sounding 421 + 121 mic combination. “OH3” is a darker mix originally intended for live sound, but also excels with brighter pickups/guitars for studio. “OH3F” is comprised of a more “fat” sounding version of the OH3 mix. “RIP” is comprised of a 57 + 160 mic combination. “SP2” is a multi-mic configuration created by Scott Peterson. Their newest (r)Evolution series uses a totally different code. Your only hope is to read the manual that comes with your bundle and try a few different IRs from different categories. While you're exploring this rabbit hole, don't forget to play your guitar!

I replied over on TGP, but here it is again: I don't have a Timeline, but I set up my FCB1010 to send Toggling (127/000) CC#80 and #82. Learn worked as expected. Is it possible that the Timeline isn't actually sending those messages, or sending them on a different MIDI channel? Try using a MIDI monitor to check what's actually happening when you send those messages from the TL.

Further note - if you don't have a db meter, you can get one for most any smartphone. I have an iPhone and use the app from dspmobile.com.set it to slow response and "C" weighting, with HOLD and LEQ OFF. Other apps will likely have different ways of doing it, but it's not rocket science. Get the simplest one you can find for this application.

Start by setting the Output Level in Global Settings>Ins/Outs to LINE. For simplicity in this exercise use the L/Mono Out to a single channel on the board. Create a simple preset with just (for comparison) the 2204 Amp+Cab with the default settings and the Stomp Master knob maxed. On the board, with the Channel and Master Volumes OFF, turn up the Channel GAIN knob until the Clip Indicator Light on the Channel starts to light up on a big power chord hit hard, then back off a hair. That's your optimum Input level (for that preset) on the Channel. Then turn up the Channel Volume to 0db (Unity). Start with the Master OFF. Watch the Master Level lights as you turn up the Master. When they start to clip, turn up the Power Amp. You didn't say what power amp/speakers you're using with the Mackie, but the bookshelf system I'm using is only 180w per channel and 180w to the sub. Set up as I just described, I can only turn the Speakers up half way, and that's 85db - the bottom of the Fletcher-Munson curve. If you Gain Stage the way I just described, you'll be doing what any competent sound tech will do in a Live setting. NOTE: This is why you want to be sure to level match your presets/and snapshots, including any effects like overdrives when they're on. A happy sound man is a good thing! Since I use Stereo presets, and I'm playing at home, I usually just take the Left and Right outs to one of the Stereo LINE Channels and set it up as described in my previous post. It's just easier to keep the R/L Channels balanced that way, and there's lots of available headroom in the system. I can control the total volume of the Stomp and my backing tracks/Spotify/YT with the Master on the board. Also, the little Xenyx802 I use only has the one MIC Channel anyway.

I take it that the latest versions and factory reset didn't work? I haven't had this happen in ages.

Your Output Level should probably be set to LINE. A DI is not necessary, as the Outs are Balanced, and it only makes a difference in noise level (not Output Level) at over 20'. I run mine into a small mixer, then into a Sony 2x6x10 bookshelf stereo. With the Stomp master wide open (Unity gain), and the volume on the board at 1/3 (board master 1/2 way, bookshelf volume cranked), it's hitting 85db at about 4ft from the speaker. That's using the 2204 (amp+cab) at it's default master and channel volume settings, Output level at (default) 0db. If I put the master on the board up to 3/4 my neighbors would call the cops (apartment dweller). Just for kicks I just did that, and it hit 95db! I don't dare turn up the channel volume on the board, it might melt the speakers! My Helix Floor goes into a PC112+ (volume at a little over 1/4), hits 85-90db. at 6ft and with the db meter off axis. Unless the unit is somehow defective, it's not the Stomp. What are you using for board/amp/speakers?

Also, make sure you're on the most recent FW (v2.92) and HXEdit version (v2.92).

This can USUALLY be cured with a factory reset.

Sorry, but it doesn't work that way. You can't combine separate presets into one preset with snapshots. The blocks in the preset can't be swapped out for other blocks, or re-arranged. You can only tweak the settings of the existing blocks, in the existing order. You'll need to examine the settings for the blocks in the separate presets, write them down, and use them as Tweaks to the blocks in the existing preset using snapshot.

Not sure what you're saying. The Stomp currently will send ONLY the PC# associated with THAT preset. v3.0 with Command Center will allow users to specify ANY PC#s and also do it with snapshots. Much better!

If all you're using the Quilter for is to amplify your preset for stage monitoring then, no, the S/R block is NOT necessary. You only need that if you're using the 4cm method, taking advantage of the previously described ability to use Helix amps OR the Quilter Pre-amp. You desired to have less cabling and to use only the Quilter Power Amp, and this is it! Four cables - guitar to Helix, Helix to Quilter, Helix to FOH, Quilter to Stage cab. Bada Bing, Bada Boom! Rock'n'Roll!

Yes. However, odds are that much tweaking will be required to get the modified preset to sound good in the new environment. For instance, a preset NOT designed for use with a proper guitar amp (4cm) probably has a cab or IR for use with an FRFR speaker or for recording, and is EQ'd accordingly. Conversely, a preset designed for 4cm will need a cab or IR and appropriate EQ. Ultimately, you'll realize that trying to make a chicken out of a duck is a time consuming PITA, and most likely to result in a drowning chicken and a flightless duck. Better to learn to DIY.

Just create a 1B or 2B split by inserting an IR or Cab Block at the end of the signal chain. Pull the IR/Cab block down to create the split. Pull the MERGE point down to fully split the paths. Assign 1A/2A Output to the 1/4" L/Mono Out (set to INSTRUMENT in Global Settings>Ins/Outs). Take that to the Quilter Input. The Quilter Output (set to FR) goes to your Stage Cab. Assign the 1B/2B Output to the XLR L/Mono Out (set to MIC or LINE per the FOH Sound Tech's preference). Take that to the board/FOH. A

There's another LONG thread on this subject. IIRC, the solution was to check that your OS Drive was Drive0 (zero).