rd2rk

Right click the block, then

Yes. See page 48 of the manual. CC#s 49-53 = FS1-FS5. 0=ON;127=OFF

Cool! Do have a look at the other links I sent. Implementing them can prevent other problems down the line. Rock on!

Start here: Disable wireless adapter!!! Power settings on HIGH PERFORMANCE. Turn off all sleep settings. Turn off Windows sounds and special effects. Disable any unnecessary audio drivers in Sound Panel. FROM CONTROL PANEL (NOT Settings), open SYSTEM, Advanced System Settings, Advanced Tab, Performance, Settings: Visual Effects= Adjust for best performance Performance Options Advanced Tab – Adjust for best performance of = Background Services Helix Sample Rate matched to DAW. Buffers 128-256 works for most machines. If that doesn't get it, follow the links in the attached file and apply the suggested optimizations. If THAT doesn't get it, come back. Optimize W10 for DAW.txt

FWIW - the Redwirez site has a very fine download called "Dialing in your tone with Redwirez IRs". This is an EXCELLENT intro to using IRs in general AND real world cabinet mic'ing, with descriptions of the characteristics of each mic type and suggested starting points for mic placement.

You seem to have two separate issues - audio and midi. If you're trying to control the GSC-3 via midi from the HXFX, you can't. The GSC-3 has only midi out. If you're trying to control the HXFX from the GSC-3, I can probably help, but I can't find a manual online, and the GSC-4 is very different (having also midi in). If you have the pdf manual (or a link thereto) I'd be happy to have a look at it. As to audio, you need to be MUCH more specific as to EXACTLY how you want to use both devices - what effects are in the GSC Loops, and what effects you want to use on the HXFX in what combinations with the GSC Loops. This can get VERY complicated.

If you want to change snapshots via MIDI, that's how it's done. There are small (not super cheap) MIDI switches that many use with the Stomp. Morningstar MC6 comes to mind, but there are others. Search this forum for "MIDI Controller".

If you're getting MIDI Clock into the Stomp over USB from StudioOne, if you turn on MIDI THRU in Global Settings>MIDI/Tempo, that should pass the clock thru the Stomp to the EHX.

You send a CC with a Value. CC#69 with a Value of 0=Snapshot 1;Value of 1=Snapshot 2;Value of 2=Snapshot 3.

Well, when you put it that way, BLUE ABSOLUTELY sounds better than RED, all day every day! No need to try it out, just buy it! SERIOUSLY, we're not trying to be wise-asses. TONE (SOUND) is SUBJECTIVE. If you don't understand the difference between OBJECTIVE and SUBJECTIVE, google it! AND - If you buy the Helix, RTM! Knowledge is POWER!

Yes. See page 48 of the manual.

It sounds like you're not just asking for advice, but asking for a guarantee. There's NO GUARANTEE you'll like Helix, so here's my advice: You like your GT100 VERY MUCH. DON'T SELL IT! Buy a Helix from a store with a good returns policy. Play it every day until you're SURE that you like it better than the GT100. THEN sell the GT100. THEN buy the FRFR108 from the same store and play it every day until you're SURE that you like it. There are DOZENS of potential alternatives. Just because someone on a forum says "SOUNDS GREAT!" doesn't mean you won't think it sounds like lollipop. IOW - I like BLUE. If you like RED but buy something BLUE because I said BLUE is better, you might just be an idiot. Sound, like color preference, is entirely subjective. Now, FWIW - I've had my Helix Floor for 4 years. I think it's great. I've had my FRFR112 for 2 years. I think my Powercab112+ sounds better. The combination of the two sounds best. YMMV.

Not yet. v3.0 will have Command Center.

There's a setting somewhere in Globals (Preferences?) that sets the exp pedal per preset or global. I'm out of town so I can't look at it,, but run through the Global Xettings and you should find it.

An active ABY will sometimes do this. I have a Morley ABY that does it. A ground loop will do this. Make sure the Amp, HXS and anything else connected are all on the same EMI/RFI filtered power strip and that there's no fluorescents or appliances on that wall circuit. If there's no ground switch on the PA, same applies. Don't forget any USB devices, computers etc. You may have the send/returns set to LINE when they want INSTRUMENT. Check Global>Ins/Outs. Use shielded (instrument) cables on the Send/Returns. Failing all that, swap out some cables. If you've STILL got noise, call the local witch/wizard to check for proximity to major ley lines......

The wish list is here: https://line6.ideascale.com/ You might want to search for each item and vote for the existing suggestions, so as not to dilute the vote. Then list your items as separate ideas. That way we can vote for the ones we like, instead of ignoring the laundry list. If you're wondering why this is not an effective place to post a wish list, over on the TGP big Helix thread @DigitalIgloo has explained it a couple of times.

Using LSB/MSB you can select a specific Bank and Preset, but there is no MIDI command for Bank Up/Down. AFAIK the FS1 MIDI command only works in Stomp Mode, not in Preset Mode, nor is there a MIDI command to switch modes (except in HXStomp).

Can't comment on the lost signal issue. Hopefully OmniFace will chime in on that. IRs loaded on the Powercab are managed with the PC Edit SW. To call an IR that's loaded on the Powercab with a preset you use the "User IR" Mode in HX Edit or on the Helix itself. Select (PC)1 OR (PC) 2 to set different IRs on each, OR 1+2 Link if you want to set both to the same IR. BUT you need to know the IR Slot # on the Powercab, the IR NAME doesn't appear in either HX Edit OR on Helix. That means you need to have the PC Edit SW running or keep a hard copy list of Powercab IRs. Don't forget to SAVE the Preset! Hopefully they'll fix that in HX Edit, but lack of display space on the config page of the Helix HW unit could be a problem for displaying the often LENGTHY IR names.

4 (or so) cm: Guitar>OD Pedal>HXStomp L/Mono In>HXS FX>HXS Amp (no cab)>HXS FX Loop L Block>HX FX Send L (TIP)>Outboard FX>Laney Amp Input>Laney FX Send > Outboard FX>HXS L/Mono Return>HXS FX>HXS FX Loop R Block>HX FX Loop R (RING)>Outboard FX>HXS Right Return>HXS 1/4" L/Mono Out>Outboard FX>Laney FX Return. If your OD Pedal is NOT true Bypass, it will be the deciding factor in pickup loading. If it IS True Bypass, depending on how you set the IN-Z setting, then the HXS Input Block (specific setting) or the first HXS effect (AUTO) will load the pickups. You can use Snapshots or individual FX Bypass buttons to alter the IN-Z setting as necessary. Set the HXS Amp Block and the HXS FX Loop L Block to the same Footswitch, save with one ON and the other OFF, depending on how you want it configured when the preset loads. When the Amp Block is ON and the FX Loop is OFF, the Laney preamp is bypassed. If you have any outboard fx in that loop they will also be out of the circuit. When the HXS Amp is OFF and the FX Loop L Block is ON, the Laney preamp and any outboard FX in that Loop will be active. Any Outboard FX in HXS FX Loop R will only be on when the FX Loop R Block is ON. Outboard FX between the HXS 1/4" Out and the Laney FX Return are always ON (unless you manually turn them OFF). Keep in mind that the end to end latency of the HXS is approx 1.8ms. Each FX Loop adds 1.8ms. Any digital Outboard FX will EACH add approx 1.8ms. It adds up. When planning your setup, consider the KISS principle.

Unless you've got a machine that's older/weaker than my Core2 Duo 8gb DIY box, it's time to upgrade to Win10. Whatever negative nonsense you've heard, that's all it is, nonsense, and I've been using and supporting Windows since before there WAS Windows. That said, it should work with Win7. Make sure you have your USB plugged into the MB connector (usually the one on the back if it's a desktop). DO THIS FIRST! Download and install HX EDIT v2.92. DO THIS FIRST! FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE DOWNLOAD PAGE to upgrade the FW. Caps used because most upgrade fails are experienced by users who did not follow the directions.

That's not a silly question. No one here can hear the "squealing". A USB grounding problem can cause a squealing noise. Unplug the Helix USB and your Blackstar USB and any other USB that's not essential to computer function. If it's still squealing, at least you've eliminated that possibility.

Ignore the voices, they're not real.

Also, once you have the names back, note the prefixes of the presets, then come back with the names and ask again.

Download and install HX Edit v2.92. FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS!

Either or both using USB?