rd2rk

Another way to do this is to use only one output block. At the mixer block pan Path A hard Left and Path B hard right. Then take the L/MONO out to the amp and the RIGHT out to the Torpedo. This is the simplest way and leaves you with another FX Loop if you need it.

OK then! If Path A Output Block is panned hard left and you're using the L/MONO out to go to the amp's FX Return AND Path B Output Block is panned hard left and you're using Send 1 (no FX Loop Block needed) to go to the Torpedo Input THEN You should be good. If the Output Block can only be set to S/R 1/2, then 1 is usually LEFT, which is why (I think) it should be panned hard left. I don't have the HXFX, but I have the HX Stomp which works the same way but with S/R 3/4.. I tested this and it worked (Send 3 panned hard left), so try it.

EDIT: OOPS! I was looking at the wrong manual!

Did you do this? Manual Page 41 "Bypass Assign"

Unless you have VERY high output pickups, 2nd gen should be just fine.

I would add that, if you already have an Audio Interface, there's lots of free to very cheap amp sims available to get your feet wet. Amplitube is one of the most popular, but do a google search for "Guitar Amp Sims". EDIT: Also, Helix Native has a free demo period, so you can see if you like the "Helix sound".

Consider four scenarios: 1) Jam/small gig no FOH - Annoying to run back and forth to the Powercab to adjust levels. Crank the Powercab and control level with Helix Big Knob. 2) Jam/small gig no FOH - Annoying to have the Big Knob accidentally changed by dragging an instrument cable across it (or whatever). Take the Big Knob out of the scene by setting it to an unused output, thus delivering max signal to Powercab. Adjust levels with Powercab Output Knob. 3) Bigger gig with FOH support - set up like 2) so that FOH gets a consistent signal from Powercab XLR Out. Adjust stage level from Powercab Output Knob. 4) Bigger gig with FOH support - take FOH from Helix XLR Out (with Cab/IR), XLR NOT controlled by Big Knob. Big Knob controls level to Powercab (like 1)) or nothing at all (set stage level with Powercab Output Knob, like 2) or 3)). Scenario 3) works because the Powercab XLR Out takes it's signal from the Powercab INPUT level, which is controlled by the Output level from Helix, but is NOT affected by changes to the Powercab Output Knob setting. As long as the output level from the Helix is not overloading the Powercab Input (level light Green to flickering Yellow) you're good there. Set each preset's output level with the Powercab Output Level OFF, and the Helix Big Knob Maxed, using just the Powercab Input Level light as reference. If you do this for all your presets, they'll be output db leveled. That does not mean that the APPARENT (as perceived by your ears) level will be equal, but that'a another subject entirely.

Make sure that your USB cable is plugged into a proper USB port, NOT A HUB! If you're using a desktop, that would be the ports on the back. Install HX Edit v2.92. That installs all the drivers. FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS!!! Update the FW to v2.92 FROM HX EDIT! FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS!!! Those instructions above which are in caps are in caps because most people whose units bricked on them got there BY NOT FOLLOWING THE DIRECTIONS! Don't be one of THEM.

So, if I'm understanding what they've done, they've taken the common DAW terminology of "ARM track for recording", and changed it to "Record Enable the track", so that they can use ARM to identify that you're using their proprietary Plugin tech called "Accelerated Realtime Monitoring". Makes sense I suppose.

¿Qué estás escuchando? ¿Auriculares? Amplificador de guitarra? ¿Por qué estás usando la tarjeta de sonido Tascam? Helix es una mejor tarjeta de sonido. Comience sacando la Tascam de la mezcla. Ahora como suena? - translation by Google Translate What are you listening through? Headphones? Guitar amp? Why are you using the Tascam soundcard? Helix is a better soundcard. Start by taking the Tascam out of the mix. Now how does it sound?

How does it sound when you place it after the stomp vs in an FX Loop?

Add to EdwinV's post: In the signal chain, add a Stomp Amp/Preamp. Assign a single footswitch to both the FX Loop L Block and the Stomp Amp/Preamp Block, and SAVE the preset with one ON (default on preset load) and the other OFF Pressing that switch will toggle between your Amp's Preamp and the Stomp Amp/Preamp. Instead of taking the L/Mono Out to the Amp's FX Return, take both outs to the Powercab. NOTES: If you want to get your Amp's poweramp flavor in to the mix, or your amp doesn't have an FX Loop, you'll need to get a Reactive Load Box and take the Line Out from the RLB to the Stomp Return instead of using the Amp's FX Send. Your Amp may require a load (speaker) be connected. Operating this type of amp without a load connected can damage the amp. BE CAREFUL!

If Helix wasn't working I'd agree. But it IS working, OP is getting "pops and crackles" that aren't being fixed with simple buffer/sample changes. That indicates a problem elsewhere with system resources/conflicts. He can't be sure about the Behringer either, as he's getting distortion from his hot pickups which is likely masking the "pops and crackles", or preventing him from even getting that far in the recording process. Besides, it can't HURT to squeeze out the last ounces of performance. If performance didn't matter to him, why spend $1600 on a Helix in the first place? Lastly, he admits to being "technologically incompetent. If nothing else, the process of learning to optimize his computer will further his knowledge and computer skills. That's never a bad thing!

IOW - Plug your guitar into the Helix, then take the XLR from the Helix (or 1/4") into the Behringer. Set the Helix Out that you're using to either Line or Mic level (Global Settings>Ins/Outs), depending on which the Behringer likes better. And DO take the time to optimize your computer for Audio/DAW. The files I attached have links to many of the leading Audio Interface mfrs recommendations, and the ones I didn't list will have similar info on their sites. They can't all be wrong about the improvements to be gained by optimizing.

Attached are two Notepad files. In them you'l find basic system optimization instructions and links to more thorough directions. After you've done all that, if you've still got problems, come back here with SPECIFIC details about your hardware. BUT...until you've optimized your system for recording, anything anybody suggests is throwing stuff at the wall and hoping it sticks. DAW Optimizations.txt Optimize W10 for DAW.txt

The usual solution to this is two part: Re-install HX Edit - that re-installs the Helix drivers and resolves the DAW problem. You don't need to re-install the FW unless you're also installing a newer version of HX Edit. Then make sure that your Windows Power Plan is still set to Performance and go into Device Manager to make sure that the Power Management on the USB Hubs is still set to NOT allow the hubs to go to sleep to save power. Windows update often (not always) resets these Power Management settings. I'm glad you solved the problem another way, but for most users this way is much easier.

Are you using a quality EMI/RFI Filtered Surge Suppressor type power strip on all devices? Are you using long cable runs (unbalanced is USUALLY good up to 20')? Are you using quality shielded cables? Are they old or worn? Is the wall outlet you're using on the same circuit as major appliances? Are you within 10' of a router or other wireless devices on either end or in between? Cell phone nearby or in your pocket while playing?

AFAIK, the only major difference between the HXFX and the Floor/Rack/Stomp (I have Floor and Stomp) is the lack of Amps. The hardware/routing is basically the same, and the only Global settings that affect the effects loops are the Instrument/Line Level settings, which would not cause the problem you're encountering. On any computer or computer based device, when it starts acting wonky or just plain stops working right, a factory reset is basically your last resort after checking all your connections. Previously, every single time someone has had a problem with 4cm it's turned out to be user error. I've never (I've had Helices for 4 years) seen a hardware fail in this regard. Congratulations! You could be the (un)lucky first!

You want the UNO chip, original (currently v1.0.4) version. And buy it from the creator, not some pirate on eBay! https://www.fcb1010.eu/ The UNO2 chip is more powerful, but requires actual programming in a programming style editor. It's a simple programming language, but if you've never done programming or just aren't into doing it, stick with UNO. The other UNO chips, Kemper, RC505, are designed to be used with specific hardware. And, yes, you can send a PC followed by a CC or two or five, but you gotta READ THE MANUAL!

Make sure the Send cable from Helix is coming out of the Send 1 jack, and the Send cable from the Archon is going in to the Helix Return 1 jack. It's easy to confuse the layout of the patchbay. Then make sure that you have a FX Loop 1 Block in the Helix signal chain. I've attached a sample preset. Rauschenberger.hlx

From the LUNA Documentation: Supported Plug-In Formats LUNA supports UAD Powered Plug-Ins, LUNA Extensions, LUNA Instruments, and Audio Units (AU) plug-ins. LUNA Extensions include Tape Machines and Neve Summing. Extensions are incorporated into the LUNA workflow. Instruments appear in a separate plug-ins list from insert effect plug-ins. From the Helix Native Pilot's Guide: This guide contains details of the Helix Native plug-in's features and functionality. All behaviors are the same on Mac and Windows (and for all plug-in formats—AAX, AU, VST3 & VST2) unless otherwise noted. For the most part, the many host DAW applications on the market work very similarly in respect to how you insert and utilize effects plug-ins. However, each host may have some unique features and settings you'll want to take advantage of, so be sure to read through your host DAW application's user documentation as well.

I've attached a sample preset. Path A is the Placater Clean panned full LEFT. Path B is the Placater Dirty Panned full RIGHT. Though the paths are separate, and use separate outputs, they both use the same input. The LEFT output goes to the amp you're using for CLEAN, the RIGHT output goes to the amp you're using for DIRTY. I've used CABs since IRs don't export. Just replace the CAB blocks with IRs. There's other ways to do this, but this is the most straightforward. MrDan679.hlx

Welcome back! I'm assuming that by 4cm you mean this: Guitar>Helix Input>Helix Send 1>TC100 Input>TC100 FX Send>Helix Return 1>Helix L/MONO Output>TC100 FX Return Your Helix signal chain might look like this: Input Block>OD/Dist>MOD>Helix Amp/Pre-amp (no cab)>FX Loop 1 Block>Delay>Reverb>Output Block Assign a single Footswitch to Both the Helix Amp and the Fx Loop 1 Block. Save the preset with one ON and the other OFF. For instance, if you want the default when you load the preset to be the TC100, save the preset with the Helix Amp OFF and the FX Loop Block ON. You can now toggle between the TC100 Pre-amp and the Helix Amp.

If Your signal path is Input>PathA>PathB>Output(s) and you're playing a guitar with passive pickups use the Multi or Guitar Input. For active pickups, if the signal is clipping the input and the Input Pad doesn't help, use AUX. If you're using two instruments there's many ways to do it, you'd have to be more specific. What EXACTLY are you trying to accomplish?