rd2rk

Sascha, I'm not going to waste valuable heartbeats searching for examples to contest a ridiculous assertion. Then, to compound the silliness, you post as examples some of the most iconic solos on some of the all-time best-selling albums - RECORDINGS mixed by a sound engineer - not good enough for Sascha! Let me clarify what I said so there's no mistaking my intent. I defined what I consider as a characteristic of professional players. I neither stated nor implied that on any given night a pro player couldn't put on an amateurish performance. Who hasn't at some point paid exorbitant ticket prices for such a show? Often because the "pros" showed up drunk and disorderly - DEFINITELY not MY idea of professional! My own semi-professional experience included playing with blues, rock and country bands over a 40 year stretch. In bands of all genres I encountered arrogant, amateurish "professionals" and highly skilled and sensitive (to each other's playing and the needs of the venue and music) amateurs. PROFESSIONAL, in the context of my statement, doesn't necessarily refer to how much money you make, it's an attitude. And bad attitude is not a characteristic of any particular genre. It's a people thing.

Depends. At approx 1.8ms per AD/DA conversion, you have almost 4ms with two stomps. Are you using the FX Loops? Are there other digital devices on your board? Are you wireless? A major study (some audio engineering group, it's out there if you search) showed that most musicians can't hear latency below 10-12ms (vocalists and horns less). Some people claim to be able to "feel" 1ms (I call BS). How sensitive to latency are you?

How about a reality checK? PROFESSIONALS listen to each other and tailor their performances for the benefit of the show. AMATEURS and BEGINNERS have no clue how to perform on that level. We were ALL amateurs and beginners at some point. Genre is irrelevant. It happens in country bands too. Classical orchestras have conductors to enforce dynamics. Nobody needs to post anything to disprove your ridiculous assertion. You claim to be speaking from a position of vast experience (based on your previous posts). Maybe your experience working with PROFESSIONALS is not as vast as you assert.

Yes you can do this. Just be aware of the additional latency imposed by daisy chaining the audio.

Not a bug, that's the way it works, either/or. I use the PC XLR out to record, but you may prefer to take a split before the digital output block and assign it to the Helix XLR out to use IRs in your DAW. FWIW - I've recorded XLR and SPDIF side by side, and if there's any difference it's beyond my ears to detect.

OK

ADDITIONAL: In Global Settings>MIDI/TEMPO, set MIDI PC Tx to OFF. This prevents HXFX from sending the default PC# when you change Presets.

From the VH4 Manual: 7.4.2 Single Channel Mode - Automatic Channel Recognition Your VH4 can automatically recognize the pedal’s send/receive channel. To get your amp into the mood ( or mode) for this, push and hold “Mute” and then activate any program change button on your midi pedal. The amp will look for a program change and recognize the channel it is being sent on. Then it will switch to this channel and stay there as soon as you let go of “Mute”. 6.1 Preamp Channel Selection The 4 channels of the Diezel can be selected manually by activating the red button above each channel strip, or can be programmed via the midi control system. If you assign the channel one switch function to a midi program ( for example “01”), then you can initiate this channel’s switching via your midi pedal. Push “01” on your midi pedal after programming, and the pedal will send digital information to the amplifier. The amp will read this information and decide whether or not it is supposed to respond. When properly programmed, it will then switch on channel one. OK, here it is again: select 01 on your midi pedal. select channel one of the VH4. Now push “Store” twice. Voila’, it’s a midi program! Now select program change “02” on your pedal, switch the amp to channel two, hit “Store” twice, and suddenly you have a midi program with 2 program changes. Continue on until you run out of channels, about 2 more times. All the other function of the amp can be programmed in the same exact way. Remember: push “Store “ twice to finalize a midi program procedure. Select the program from the pedal to recall it at the amp. HXFX: Decide which Program Change number you want to use for simple Channel Changes. Decide which HXFX Stomp buttons you want to use. In each HXFX Preset, open Command Center and set the chosen Buttons to send the appropriate PC#s. EXAMPLE: You've decided that you want to use PC#s 1-4 to switch the channels. In Command Center, set button 1 to send PC#1, Button 4 to send PC#2, Button 5 to send PC#3 and Button 6 to send PC#4. Label the buttons so you know which is which. Now follow the above directions to teach the VH4 how to respond. NOTE: If you're using the BASE MIDI Channel, you only need to enter the Program Change number, the channel is BASE by default and the rest of the settings don't matter. If it were me, I'd start with a Blank Preset, then SAVE it as a Template. Then create your presets starting with that template, that way you only have to set it up once.

Your mixer has three types of outputs, the SPEAKER outs which, because it's a powered mixer, need to be SPEAKER cable, not INSTRUMENT or PATCH cable. The MONITOR outs, which carry a LINE level signal to a separate MONITOR power amp or powered monitor speaker and should probably be shielded to prevent noise being amplified by the monitor amp. RECORD OUT which carry a LINE level signal and can be simple un-shielded patch cables.These are the outs you should use to send to the 2i2. However, this is an ancient mixer, designed for the Inputs of a Tape Deck. If you get noise in the 2i2 Inputs, switch to shielded cables. You should be certain that all of your devices that connect to each other in any way are plugged into the same wall outlet via a quality surge suppressor/emi/rmi filtered power strip. That means computer, mixer, 2i2 and anything else you've got hooked up. This will often eliminate the USB noise. Also, if you can identify which audio connectors the noise is entering the signal chain through, a basic "Hum Destroyer" like this: https://smile.amazon.com/Compact-Mini-Hum-Eliminator-Box/dp/B00BARTW3I/ref=smi_www_rco2_go_smi_4368549507?_encoding=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0&ie=UTF8 can eliminate the noise. I have that same noise caused by sending the computer sound card into my 18i20. The PHE300 above ($15.69) eliminates the hum.

First question: Why are you using the 2i2 instead of the Stomp as Audio Interface? Second question: What do you mean when you say that the mixer doesn't like instrument cables, so you're using a speaker cable "with the fat 1/4" jack"? Instrument cables and speaker cables have 1/4" jacks. All 1/4" jacks are 1/4". HUH? Anyhow, odds are there's SOME noise entering the signal from the un-shielded speaker cable, but that's probably not the high pitched noise you're talking about. Troubleshooting the noise: I assume that you have both the Stomp and 2i2 connected to the computer via USB. Unplug the stomp USB. Does the noise go away?

I'm on v2.92 and having no such problems. Helix (Floor)/Powercab112+ is on 8AM-11PM every day. Are you using a proper AES cable? Connected to a quality surge suppressor/emi/rfi strip? Any major appliances on the same circuit? Close proximity to routers, cell phones, other wireless devices? If all of the above is copacetic, it might be worth opening a support ticket.

Instead of using whatever boost method you're using (you didn't specify), use the Output Block Level instead. Set the MIN value to, say, -5db (so as to not overdrive the playback device on boost), and the MAX at 0db. Turn up the Helix master (BIG KNOB) to compensate the -5db non-boosted level.

As I recall, Helix adds <2ms latency, AD on input + DA on output.

Here's a new version of the previously attached preset/template. The high dsp guitar is Path 1A and the lower dsp MIC is Path1B. Path 2A is Bass and Path 2B is for your Digitakt. If you take a MONO Out from your Digitakt into Return 1 it can be recorded from USB 5, and a MONO out from a Synth into Return 2 it will record from USB 6. You now have a recording template for a 5 piece band, and I haven't used a single block for routing. Tahiche3.hlx

What's wrong with the attached Preset/Template? Guitar is on USB 1 Bass goes in the AUX input and comes out USB 2 Mic is on USB 3/4 Digitakt Goes in Return 1/2 and comes out on USB 5/6 All you need to do is add amps and effects. Tahiche.hlx

AKA "How to fit 5 tons of manure in a 1/2 ton pickup". Nothing wrong with dreaming tho.....

No worries re dynamic range/compression. Every DAC adds approx 2ms latency. If you're using all 4 loops on your Floor that's <8ms + 2ms for Helix itself, +wireless if you're using it. 10ms is the low end of where the average guitarist HEARS latency (horns and vocalists less), but you MIGHT be able to FEEL the latency. If you're heavily dependent on external effects requiring the use of loops, and very sensitive to latency, then an analog switcher would be the way to go.

Like I said, I don't use the Looper, and you're using the new Command Center functions, so you should probably contact support to find out what L6's logic is.on this. Maybe it IS a bug?

Stomp was made to be mounted on a pedalboard. Floor doubles the size of your pedalboard. Other than that, I don't see a downside. Did you have a specific worry?

You can connect the Digitakt OUT to the AUX input (MONO) and it's available in all presets, but has to be configured as to where you want it in the signal chain, per preset. Or you can connect it to a pair of Returns (stereo) in which case the returns have to be assigned in each preset. If you're using the Digitakt through a computer via USB then yes, you'll need two USB paths, but then unless you assign it to USB 1/2, they'll have to be assigned per preset. If you assign it to USB 1/2 then the signal will bypass Helix processing direct to Outputs 1/2. As DunedinDragon said, the mixer functionality is limited. The best way to do what you're asking is with an external soundcard/mixer. I use a Focusrite 18i20 and have eDrums, Synths, multiple guitars, bass, mics - you get the picture.

I can't speak to the Looper commands because I don't use it, but the rest makes no sense. If FS3 controls a drive, it will always control that drive, regardless of snapshots. If it's not ON in a Snapshot and you manually turn it on, it can stay ON between Snapshots (Snapshot Bypass), it can follow the Snapshots (ON or OFF) and revert to it's Snapshot default when you return to that Snapshot (Snapshot Edits=Discard) or remain ON when you return to the Snapshot (Snapshot Edits=Recall), but it will always be assigned to that drive. Maybe you could be more specific, and attach a copy of a preset that demonstrates what you're talking about?

Posting here is pointless, the folks who matter don't look on here. The official Helix wish list is called Ideascale. https://line6.ideascale.com/ Search first for your wish, it may already be posted, and you'd just be diluting the votes if it is. Also, if you post 10 things in one post, I for one won't vote for your idea(s) unless I like ALL of them. What are the odds?

Did you hit the MODE button and switch to Stomp Mode with no footswitches assigned?

You mean the "Helix for Dummies" eBook? No. If you have HX Edit you can see every bit of what makes the preset work and between the simple and complex presets provided above you should be able to figure it out. Come back and ask questions if need be. If you don't yet HAVE the Helix Rack, download the manual and, sorry, search YouTube for tutorials.

Update to v2.92. Just because you don't THINK it's a FW problem, doesn't mean it isn't. Either way, check this: Go into Device Manager, Universal Serial Bus Controllers. For each Hub, pull up Properties, Power Management, and uncheck the Allow Device to Sleep box. Even if your Power Management Plan is set to Performance (it IS, right?), Even if Processor Sceduling is set to Optimize for Background Processes (it should be), even if you've done this in the past, Windows Update sometimes resets these settings.