rd2rk

In Global Settings>MIDI/Tap Tempo, set MIDI Over USB to ON and MIDI Thru to ON.

If you're using the stock chip, you need to set BOTH CNT1 and CNT2 to the same CC#, one with a value of 0 and one at 127. See page 11 section 2.5 of the FCB manual.

You should change the thread title you specified DIGITECH Whammy! Since you're NOT using a DIGITECH Whammy, you can assign whatever CC# you want.

From the Digitech Whammy manual: MIDI Continuous Control Using MIDI continuous control commands, the Whammy’s Expression Pedal position can be remotely controlled. MIDI CC11 adjusts the Expression Pedal position. A value of 0 on MIDI CC11 corresponds to a toe up position and a value of 127 corresponds to a toe down position. ------------------------------------------ The Digitech Whammy does not SEND MIDI. You'd need to assign an Expression pedal in Helix to operate the Whammy, and record the MIDI in Reaper.

Not sure what you're asking. Can you be a bit more specific?

Has anyone reported this to support? I only have one PC112+, but thinking about another. Be nice to know what support says about it......

Try using one of the FX Loops. Somebody else had a similar problem, and I don't think we found a solution, but I can't find the thread.

Global Settings>Displays>Tap Tempo LED

Depends. The dual cab block isn't stereo. Effects placed between amp and cab would have to be mono, or would sum to mono. If you want stereo cabs you'd need three blocks, with one of the cabs in a split path. You could then put stereo effects before and after the cabs/split.

Your M-Audio card is a 4 in 4 out audio card with (S/PDIF - your Helix doesn't have that) and MIDI. Your Helix is a 8 in 8 out audio card with MIDI. Use the Helix via USB for everything everywhere and forget about the M-Audio. Just change the ASIO in the DAW to Helix. If you must have the speakers connected to the computer directly for some reason, just get a small mixer, like a Behringer Xenyx 802. Hook the speakers to that and take the M-Audio Out to one pair of Line inputs and the Helix Outs to the Other pair. Set the Helix outs to LINE. Make sure everything is on the same power strip/conditioner to prevent ground loops.

Stomp's place in the product line is as a pedal-board device. It can be used standalone, and many do, lots mount it on a pedal-board with their favorite pedals. I use mine as a desktop toy at the office, kind of like the old Pod bean. I have a Floor for serious playing.

If you have an iPhone and a Helix Floor or Rack, use the camera kit to connect to the Helix USB port. That will be USB 1/2 and will play through the same Helix Outs that your monitors are connected through, without passing through the effects chain. If it's an Android, the specific make/model will probably determine whether you can do it that way or not. You may need to (and this is actually the best way to use an iPhone too) get a small mixer, like a Behringer Xenyx 802 (around $50), take the headpnone out from your phone into one of the Line Input pairs on the mixer (1/8" Stereo to dual 1/4" Mono), and the Helix Outs into the other pair. Connect your speakers to the mixer. There's another way, without a mixer, but it requires modifying every preset that you want to use. Connect the 1/8 to 1/4 Insert cable described above into a pair of RETURNS and add a pair of RETURN Blocks, one in a split, at the end of the signal chain, with the merge block panned hard left and hard right. PITA. Get the mixer. Easier level control/mixing too.

Guitar>Helix Input>Helix Send (1? - set to INST in Global Settings>Ins/Outs)> Amp Input>Amp FX Send>Helix Return (1?)>Helix L/Mono Out>Amp FX Return FX Loop Block ON.

Found 'em. They're in the Stereo Sub Category.

Sorry, don't know what happened yesterday, I sent you preset/screenshot from early experiments. I Have no idea how you're doing it, I've never used that function in Reaper. So many ways to do things! It LOOKS like you're recording over the original DI Track, which is OK as long as you still have a copy on another Track. Whatever, if it works for you, great! It might even be easier than my method. I've amended my original post with the stuff that works, in case you want to try it, or anyone else comes along and wants to try it.

Here's a Preset and a screenshot. Signal flow: The DI Track in Reaper goes out USB 5/6 The HX preset Input receives on USB 5/6 Path A is panned full LEFT so that no signal goes to Path B MAIN L/R Output set to -120db Path A Output is sent through a SEND L block Physical send L (tip) goes to the Amp. In Global Settings Ins/Outs this should be set to INST. (Since the Send/Return Instr/Line levels can't be set separately, you may have the adjust the RETURN L Block level as necessary). RL Line Out goes to Return L/Mono Path B receives input from a RETURN L block with MIX at 100% Signal passes from there thru Cab/IR, then out USB 3/4 panned hard RIGHT (USB 4) ReAmp Track in Reaper receives USB 4, Records Output if further processing is being used, else records Input. During playback, MUTE the DI Track. ReAmp Amp_RL.hlx

There's 22 Legacy Modulation effects. Link to the documentation where you saw the Rotary 122 & 145?

I don't normally use Ableton, but to test your situation I created a simple Ableton (v10) Project using EZKeys, EZDrummer, and Native (v1.91). Using my Stomp (v2.91) as interface, set to 128 spls. Using an ancient 3rd gen i5 Gateway Laptop, 8gb/256gb ssd, Win10. I've got no snap/crackle/pop. Something else going on there, maybe some of the MAC kids will chime in?

More "chiseled in stone" rules. BEWARE! Think of these type of things as "Best Practices" type suggestions, not rules. When I (briefly) had a Katana, I found that running an entire "brittle" sounding preset through the CLEAN amp took the edge off. YMMV. In another of your threads on this same subject, someone pointed out that there's two ways to get into the power amp on the Katana MKII. Look into that. IIRC, one allows an EQ right before the power amp. Try messing with that, too.

That's not a "chiseled in stone" rule. There are no RULES. THIS IS NOT THE REAL WORLD! Try Preamp, Amp, Amp+Cab. Use what sounds best TO YOU! When going direct into a power amp/speaker, I find that what works best very much varies with the amp and the sound I'm after.

ITRW, all amplifiers and most effects have tone controls. The presets and default settings were created on certain guitars (probably not yours), through certain playback systems (probably not yours), by humans with specific tastes (probably not yours). This is true of ALL modelers. Exercise 1 Start by picking an amp and cab combination that, either you are familiar with ITRW, or is used by your favorite player. Turn the knobs until you get a sound that you like. Try different cabs. The cabs have treble and bass settings, and different mics at different distances sound different. Try things until you get a sound that you like. Move on to the next amp+cab. Don't start adding effects until you finish excercise 1. At first your progress will be slow. As you gain experience it will become easier. If you can, try different playback systems, though the ones you have should be fine. If you haven't got the patience to do this, then modelers might not be your thing.

Congratulations! Now all you need to do is get HX Edit to run under WINE (or whatever the current Windows environment is). And get it all running at once with Bitwig. Dependably. Is the Penguin coming of age? Do keep us up to date!

Like This (attached). Note the panning on the Split/Merge blocks. Dry Right Out.hlx

What codamedia said about the blinking - you had Snapshot Mode set to Manual Return, that's what the blinking is about, the update reset it to Auto Return.