brue58ski

I wish someone around here had one in store. It sounds very cool if it works but that's a lot of money that I don't have right now. Would love to see if it's worth saving up for.

I seem to remember someone talking about this. I believe the bundle/setlist/patch files are actually text files so if you save anything to your computer, try opening them up with a text file reader. That would be a start. It's been awhile though. I could be wrong.

Well....You've sure come to a lot of conclusions about me. All of them wrong but that would be par for the course. You never said there was no horse to beat and you were the one that started this "beating". Again, YOU started this, I am merely answering your call. So if you continue to call, that would make you the perpetuator. I'm not sure what makes you think that it took me a long time to craft a post to you. As soon as I saw that you "called" me, I just quickly answered. As I'm doing now. Your posts don't require that much thought to answer. I did respond to all your points though. Perhaps that kind of thing takes you a much longer time to do than me and you just assumed I was just as inept. Nope. Didn't take long at all. And that last little comment. Is that an insult? Well gee golly Mr willj. I guess ya got me reeeal good on that one. Ouch. And actually I wasn't going for cool. Just clever. You should try it sometime. Oh, and........I'm hanging up now. "click".

Just something to check. As I recall the global EQ does not affect the headphone outputs so check your Global EQ to see if it's on and on some weird setting?

This describes my situation completely.

Just checking but did you select amp/cab and not just amp when creating your presets. I only ask because you say you are brand spanking new to this.

Always logging me off as well. If Line 6 is counting.

I have no computer in many of my situations so this would be for those people like me. I absolutely agree that the developers should spend time on other more important things (love the VU meter idea.) This would definitely be low priority but if it's something that would be quick (is anything quick in the programing world?), it would help me. If it would only help me then forget it. That's why I was wondering what other people thought. Seems to be about 50-50 pro/con right now.

Aren't IR's often used for Reverb? I believe they do need to be longer. Could that be one use?

I'm just curious, with all of this screen real estate, I thought it would be nice to have an area to put some notes about the patch. Like what kind of guitar, what distortion did you use, stereo mono, etc. whatever. Just to remind me/us about what some of the specifics are in specific patches. Just curious your thoughts. Have no idea how easy or hard it would be to implement. And I know it would use the same method patch naming directly on the Helix does. But I would assume it would be available in HX Edit also if it were implemented. Just curious about peoples thoughts on this. Worth it? Or a waste of the developers time?

Splitting them provides the flexibility to choose the cab models. I find it useful to choose various combinations such as 1 1x12 mixed in with a 4x12. With various mic setups I dial in the tone by sliding the A/B balance toward of of the two cabs. You actually can select different cabs in the dual cab block. See page 28 of the manual. You don't have to split them.

We just went through this. Check out this thread.

Once you get through my last post. These are pretty good tutorials.

I created this in Word so I don't know what happened but all of the formatting is askew. But the info is still there so here we go. After reading my last post, I thought I would come up with a step by step post That will hopefully make it easier to get started. Keep in mind I have a Windows based computer. I have no “Apple” experience. I will proceed as if you know nothing. Go to the Line 6 website and create an account if you don’t have one already. Register your Helix. You can do this online AND it gets you an extra year of warranty. Go to the download section of their website. When you get there, there will be three drop down menus. Select Helix in the first one, keep the second one at all software and select your operating system in the third drop down menu. Click Go. Now download the Updater (version 1.14) and HX Edit (version 2.52) You do not need to download the firmware. The Updater will take care of that for you. Install both Updater and HX Edit. Now I’m not positive but I’m pretty sure one or both of those will give you an option to install the Helix drivers to your computer (I’m not at home). Do so. If they don’t, you’ll need to install the drivers as well (Ver1.87) also on the download page. But I’m pretty sure you won’t have to. After all of this, connect your Helix via USB to your computer and turn it on. Fire up HX Edit. Onceit connects to your Helix, click on HELP and select ABOU HX EDIT. The box that comes up will have your Helix’s firmware version at the top and the HX Edit version toward the bottom. If your Helix version number is 2.54, your golden. If not you need to upgrade. Now if there is anything you think you might want to keep on your Helix, backup everything. You will use HX Edit to do this. This gets tricky since I don’t know what version your Helix firmware is on. Go to the FILE menu and see if there is a CREATE BACKUP option. If there is use that. If there isn’t, I would use EXPORT SETLIST. That seemed to be the safest way to back the Helix up in the previous versions before the CREATE BACKUP option. Export every setlist you have (8?). If you have any IR’s loaded in it you will need to back those up too. I’m assuming there won’t be any but check to be sure. Also if there are any IR’s, take a screen shot of where they are stored as there’s no other way to document that without the CREATE BACKUP option. To be honest, I would backup all of the setlists and IR’s even if you have the CREATE BACKUP option. Just to be safe. Now that you’ve backed up everything it’s time to update. If you don’t care about any patches in it, then forget all of this. It’s a pain. Fire up the Updater (you’ll have to login to your Line 6 account) and your Helix with it’s version number on it should appear in it. . Check out this. They have pictures. https://line6.com/support/page/kb/effects-controllers/helix/how-to-update-the-helix39s-firmware-r776/ Now this is where my memory fails me (again I’m not at home) so you’re kind of on your own here. But I believe you double click on your Helix in the Updater or there’s a menu option once you select your Helix. Whatever that is the first thing that comes up is an instruction to back everything up. You have already done that so continue on. The next page will show you all of the versions available. Of course you want the top one. Click on the UPDATE button. Once again be patient and don’t touch anything. Wait for it to finish. Your Helix should have restarted when it’s done. That’s it if everything went perfect One thing people used to have to do and still like to do is a factory reset after all of this. This is why you should back everything up no matter what. To do this, power down the Helix. I would also disconnect the USB cable. While holding down buttons 9 and 10 ( the two middle buttons on the bottom row) turn the Helix back on. “Will reset Globals and restore stock Presets, Setlists and IRs…” should appear on the screen. Let go of the buttons and let it finish. So now you have a Helix that’s the same as what comes off of the assembly line. So this is where all that backing up pays off. If you did, go ahead and reload everything now. That’s everything. This was all from memory so proceed with caution. Hope this helps ya get started. Oh, and do download the manual. It will help after all of this.

Got one. Hmmmmmmm...... Are we talking length or width?

One thing that could be confusing is that you were supposed to have the same version number of firmware and HX Edit. That isn't true right now. The latest firmware is 2.54 but the latest HX Edit is 2.52. The latest Line 6 updater version is 1.14 at this moment. The updater is what will easily update your Helix. And be patient. I just updated to 2.54 and the Updater just kind of sat there for awhile while the Helix screen said it was collecting data. Eventually it started moving. These are what work together. Do you know what version your Helix's firmware is at? You will also need to create an account with Line 6 in order to download these things and have the Updater work (ya gotta sign in). If you think there are patches on it that you want to check out that were created in the store, backup everything before you update.

Ya still wanna beat this horse? OK, I'm game. 1) If there's no single reason to do anything then why are you? And actually no, I've never up or down voted anyone. I've seen those turn into revenge fests and have seen how they can and often are used as "ammo". At least they used to be around here. Not so much anymore but still it happens. So no, never voted anyone up OR down. It got to be hard to tell if the voting had any substance or not. 2) None of your posts directed at me had anything to do with the topic. Yet you boldy keep saying to reply to the topic. OK.....You should start doing that. And.... " You aren't going to set anyone straight or change the way they comment. Most often, now you have two or more people bickering" Isn't that exactly what's going on here? You have been trying to set ME straight. Still are. And you're not letting it die underscores what both you and I've been saying. Every comment you make applies directly to you and your actions as well. You've directly addressed me the whole time by quoting my posts. I'm merely responding to you. 3) Your own posts, underscore your point. You're the one that brought this whole discussion to life. It's up to you to let it die. A) From the start none of your posts that quoted me have been about the OP's post and topic. B) "Poor comment." I'm not sure what you mean by that. That my comment was poor? So far I think that about all of your posts quoting me. But those would just be our opinions. If that's not what you're saying then I'm stumped. C) That's exactly what you're trying to do to me. D) This particular back and forth was started by you quoting ME. You say you weren't addressing me but you did so by quoting my post!! You sound like a politician. And let's not forget. I was actually defending the original poster from some nasty comments directed at him. I was on the OP's side. What's wrong with that? You should have commented on the poster I was quoting if you truly believe what you say. You called me first. I just answered. E)Time to move on? Then why don't you? Again, you "called" me. I just answered. And will continue to do so if you keep "calling" me. It's up to you. Not me. You want this to end? Stop "calling me". And don't "call" me and in your "call", tell me not to answer. You don't have that power and never will. This is totally up to you. So if it's time to move on then do so. Or, as I said before, we can continue to chat. And I will. I'm "hanging up" now....Click.

Has the recent Doobie Brothers tour been mentioned? Johm McFee. And he's holding a JTV Variax.

Personally, I had Distant Early Warning in my head when I offered up my suggestions. I forgot there were so many "Red" songs on that album.

I know what I would start with. The info is sketchy but try a Marshall plexi or JCM 800 (2204). Chorus of course and heavy delay and reverb. Maybe even a Hiwatt with a distortion box in front. At that time he used a couple of different Marshalls, a Galien Kruger and a Hiwatt. Usually he used a JC120 for cleans. One "trick" to try is to separate the amp and cab and put the chorus between them. Good luck.

I'm pretty sure it's the guitar. One thing I love about my Variax is you can be right next to a flourescent light, a light dimmer, a cell phone, etc. and no noise.

Well...my comments had nothing to do with having a different opinion on anything. The poster I was referencing was rude and made personal comments toward someone. Not an opinion on the topic at hand. That is what I addressed and why I quoted him specifically. The rudeness nastiness and namecalling is what I spoke to. Not an opinion of it. Exactly what I believe you are saying you were referring to. I, in no way, addressed the topic nor an opinion either way on it, or anything else. I thought that was obvious. So I would say that my post was no example at all of what you say you were addressing. As an example of that, it was a misguided one at best. And again. I realize you say you weren't speaking about/to me specifically but when you quote a poster, it's my understanding that the reason for doing that is to make clear whom a poster is specifically responding/refering to. If you want to move on, move on. But as long as you keep quoting me, which I take to mean you are addressing me specifically, I will continue to respond. I mean you've quoted me in the last couple of posts. It was because you were addressing me specifically wasn't it? So you're not ignorant to the purpose of quoting someone. You quoted me first, which generally means you are talking to me specifically. You didn't say here's an example of what I'm talking about (which it wasn't an example of anyway). So I responded to someone who was talking to me. Or at least was giving all the signals that they were. I can't read peoples minds. So let's move on, shall we? Or we can continue to chat. All the same to me.

One trick I've used when going through a guitar amp/cab is to at fist eliminate the speaker cab and mic from your patch. Once you get something you like, throw the cab into the patch and just scroll through and listen to all of the cabs. It does't always work but about 35% of the time, a good tone will suddenly pop out. It's like quickly running through a bunch of different sophisticated EQ curves. It doesn't take that long and sometimes results in some surprising tones.

I don't know how much experience you have with modelers but there is one concept that will help. If you are using it fully (i.e. going direct, not using it through a guitar amp) what you will be hearing is not a simulated guitar amp, but a guitar amp that has been mic'd in a studio, with you in an isolated control booth and hearing the mic'd amp on the control booth's monitors. It's a concept that has helped me.

Any info on what any details are?