cruisinon2

I'm afraid you'll just have to tweak and EQ your way out...

Whatever the cause may be, it's not a software bug. If it were, then every JTV out there would be affected, yet they're not. Don't hold your breath for the next update to fix the problem.

Good question...I have no idea, but I'm gonna go ahead and guess that it will depend on which one comes first in the chain.

Same here...output mode doesn't change on it's own on mine, or I would have been complaining about it. That would drive me nuts. I don't see how that would be a desireable "feature", especially live. It takes a significant amount of time to dial in the tones the way I want them, and there is no "right" or "wrong" way to configure these units. To then have the software assume that it knows the "best" way to configure itself based on which connections are in use is rather stupid, imho. What did I do all the tweaking for if it's just gonna be undone for me? If I had to go in and manually re-set the output mode of every patch I'm gonna use at a gig every time I power up, all this stuff would be going on eBay.

It also helps to not be deaf...some of the "musicians" I've encountered, I'm forced to wonder...

The concept of the "sale" will forever involve smoke and mirrors, and intentionally vague language. "Up to 50%" can mean anything, only defines the upper limit of a "discount", and almost never implies 50% off of the actual every day price, but rather the MSRP. This is not an accident. $5.00 off a $1K item is nowhere near 50%, but still falls squarely under the "Up to 50% off" umbrella. Caveat emptor.

Yup, L6 Link...weird.

And Noah did say, "Of course. And next, my Lord?" "Next shall be the Piano Player. And he shall play as if he has twenty fingers, and he shall play Substitute upon Substitute, until no man may name the Chord, and he will not be helpful. Furthermore, he shall always be late. And he shall always be trying out New Gear, of which he has no knowledge." http://www.overdrivehorns.com/origin.htm :P

I won't pretend to know what cuases this problem, but I think that this particular solution was a bit a a stretch anyway. This often seems to be a "now you have it/now you don't" problem...even though it seemed to work for the OP, I suspect that whatever had caused it had nothing to do with the # of windings around the post. Likely a coincidence.

Because your average gear-jockey over at Fantabulous Huge-o-rific Music Emporium doesn't give a damn, and generally has the IQ of a walnut. I once had such a cretin tell me...loudly and derisively...that the item I was looking for (which happened to be within arm's reach) "Uh, that doesn't exist bro...(insert eye-rolling here)". Haven't spent a dime in any of those places in about 15 years.

Thats odd...are you using the 500 or 500X? My 500X doesn't reset the output mode and it is connected to the L2T via L6 link. I had a ton of presets set up for use with headphones that were all using studio/direct. I used those as a staring point for knobulating with the L2T, and those patches all kept that setting right where it was...

I gotta learn to stop buying stuff before Christmas...

Lmao...

Its pretty much impossible to kill a mag pickup itself. Its likely that the problem lies further up the chain...I'm guessing its either the model selector knob, or the selector switch. If its just the one pickup, maybe its a dirty contact on the neck position. Do you get the right sound with the mags in the neck/middle position, or does it sound like you're only getting the middle pickup? Solution may be as simple as a blast with some contact cleaner.

Anytime you change string gauge, adjustments need to be made...especially with a floating bridge. 10-52 is a light top/heavy bottom set. Most standard 10s are 10-46, so I'm not surprised that things were out of whack. No reason that the neck shouldn't be able to handle that gauge tho...just needs the right set-up.

Yup...I really don't understand the obsession with "factory specs". Hauling out the calipers and "spec-ing it out" guarantees nothing. The measurements are not magic. If a guitar plays comfortably (entirely subjective...means different things to different players), with minimal buzz, proper relief, etc etc, then its fine. Don't care what the measurements are. My JTV has proved no more difficult to set up than anything else I've ever owned. Set it up how you like it and play....

There's really nothing special about it. Changing strings on the 69 is exactly the same as any other guitar with a 2 point floating bridge. Either change one string at a time so there is minimal change in string tension, or use something like this to hold the bridge in it's "neutral" position: http://www.shredneck.com/?p=1001 But honestly, just about anything that you can slip between the bridge and the body of the guitar to hold it in place will suffice, as long as it doesn't scratch the finish. A thick enough piece of cardboard will work...rather low-rent, but it works, lol.

I love these threads. "JTVs suck." "No they don't." "Well my ears must be better than yours then." "I agree, and when I said the same thing, somebody voted down my post. But I don't care...yet here I am, going out of my way to point out just how much I don't care." Ugh....

I've used just about every brand of string out there at one time or another, and I still can't get more than a week on any guitar that gets played every day...sometimes less than that. I would be surprised if these are any different, but of course there is only one way to tell. Generally speaking, attempts at reinventing the wheel turn out to be rather disappointing.

That sux...maybe the site was recently updated then. The search filter is over the top specific and there is definitely an entire "in stock" section. You can filter by type of wood(s), profile, radius, fret wire, finish. I did pay a little more for mine (~$300 shipped?? dont remember exactly) because I really like birdseye maple with abalone inlays...and you can pay upwards of $800 or $1000 if you really wanted to, but its not necessary. $200-$250 will get you a really nice neck.

Only takes forever and gets really expensive if you have them build your neck from scratch. Search through their "in stock" necks, and there will be dozens, if not 100 or more to choose from won't break the bank and are either ready to ship, or just need the final finish. I chose the latter this time, and it shipped within 10 days or so. Always a bunch to choose from that are below $200.

If its really that bad, then any attempted "fix" is like putting a silk hat on a pig, and you are likely to be disappointed with the results. Save yourself the aggravation and spend whatever $ you were gonna give the luthier on a replacement from Warmoth. You won't be disappointed. Makes the 69 a different instrument...night and day difference, trust me.

As versatile as they are, they're still a niche product. Many players, even serious ones, don't know they exist. I get the "What kind of guitar is that?" question at gigs pretty frequently, and its always a player who asks.

I'd demand a refund if they don't have another one for you, then just wait for Sweetwater to get one in stock...they won't treat you like something they just scraped off their shoe. I got my 69 from there and it was a 'scratch and dent'. Same price you paid, and it took me about an hour of staring at it to find the 'scratch'...some tiny little swirls in the lacquer on the back near the strap button. Anyway, point is Sweetwater will be infinitely more pleasant to deal with.

That sucks. Get your money back and roll the dice with Sweetwater. Pleasant to deal with and twice the warranty period. I'd love to know why those toggle switches are still an issue at this point. If you can stomach a Strat-style guitar, try a 69...they don't seem to have the toggle switch issues.