cruisinon2

I won't pretend to know what cuases this problem, but I think that this particular solution was a bit a a stretch anyway. This often seems to be a "now you have it/now you don't" problem...even though it seemed to work for the OP, I suspect that whatever had caused it had nothing to do with the # of windings around the post. Likely a coincidence.

Because your average gear-jockey over at Fantabulous Huge-o-rific Music Emporium doesn't give a damn, and generally has the IQ of a walnut. I once had such a cretin tell me...loudly and derisively...that the item I was looking for (which happened to be within arm's reach) "Uh, that doesn't exist bro...(insert eye-rolling here)". Haven't spent a dime in any of those places in about 15 years.

Thats odd...are you using the 500 or 500X? My 500X doesn't reset the output mode and it is connected to the L2T via L6 link. I had a ton of presets set up for use with headphones that were all using studio/direct. I used those as a staring point for knobulating with the L2T, and those patches all kept that setting right where it was...

I gotta learn to stop buying stuff before Christmas...

Lmao...

Its pretty much impossible to kill a mag pickup itself. Its likely that the problem lies further up the chain...I'm guessing its either the model selector knob, or the selector switch. If its just the one pickup, maybe its a dirty contact on the neck position. Do you get the right sound with the mags in the neck/middle position, or does it sound like you're only getting the middle pickup? Solution may be as simple as a blast with some contact cleaner.

Anytime you change string gauge, adjustments need to be made...especially with a floating bridge. 10-52 is a light top/heavy bottom set. Most standard 10s are 10-46, so I'm not surprised that things were out of whack. No reason that the neck shouldn't be able to handle that gauge tho...just needs the right set-up.

Yup...I really don't understand the obsession with "factory specs". Hauling out the calipers and "spec-ing it out" guarantees nothing. The measurements are not magic. If a guitar plays comfortably (entirely subjective...means different things to different players), with minimal buzz, proper relief, etc etc, then its fine. Don't care what the measurements are. My JTV has proved no more difficult to set up than anything else I've ever owned. Set it up how you like it and play....

There's really nothing special about it. Changing strings on the 69 is exactly the same as any other guitar with a 2 point floating bridge. Either change one string at a time so there is minimal change in string tension, or use something like this to hold the bridge in it's "neutral" position: http://www.shredneck.com/?p=1001 But honestly, just about anything that you can slip between the bridge and the body of the guitar to hold it in place will suffice, as long as it doesn't scratch the finish. A thick enough piece of cardboard will work...rather low-rent, but it works, lol.

I love these threads. "JTVs suck." "No they don't." "Well my ears must be better than yours then." "I agree, and when I said the same thing, somebody voted down my post. But I don't care...yet here I am, going out of my way to point out just how much I don't care." Ugh....

I've used just about every brand of string out there at one time or another, and I still can't get more than a week on any guitar that gets played every day...sometimes less than that. I would be surprised if these are any different, but of course there is only one way to tell. Generally speaking, attempts at reinventing the wheel turn out to be rather disappointing.

That sux...maybe the site was recently updated then. The search filter is over the top specific and there is definitely an entire "in stock" section. You can filter by type of wood(s), profile, radius, fret wire, finish. I did pay a little more for mine (~$300 shipped?? dont remember exactly) because I really like birdseye maple with abalone inlays...and you can pay upwards of $800 or $1000 if you really wanted to, but its not necessary. $200-$250 will get you a really nice neck.

Only takes forever and gets really expensive if you have them build your neck from scratch. Search through their "in stock" necks, and there will be dozens, if not 100 or more to choose from won't break the bank and are either ready to ship, or just need the final finish. I chose the latter this time, and it shipped within 10 days or so. Always a bunch to choose from that are below $200.

If its really that bad, then any attempted "fix" is like putting a silk hat on a pig, and you are likely to be disappointed with the results. Save yourself the aggravation and spend whatever $ you were gonna give the luthier on a replacement from Warmoth. You won't be disappointed. Makes the 69 a different instrument...night and day difference, trust me.

As versatile as they are, they're still a niche product. Many players, even serious ones, don't know they exist. I get the "What kind of guitar is that?" question at gigs pretty frequently, and its always a player who asks.

I'd demand a refund if they don't have another one for you, then just wait for Sweetwater to get one in stock...they won't treat you like something they just scraped off their shoe. I got my 69 from there and it was a 'scratch and dent'. Same price you paid, and it took me about an hour of staring at it to find the 'scratch'...some tiny little swirls in the lacquer on the back near the strap button. Anyway, point is Sweetwater will be infinitely more pleasant to deal with.

That sucks. Get your money back and roll the dice with Sweetwater. Pleasant to deal with and twice the warranty period. I'd love to know why those toggle switches are still an issue at this point. If you can stomach a Strat-style guitar, try a 69...they don't seem to have the toggle switch issues.

Can't wait to see how this plays out...

Fair enough...I'll hafta try it myself. I was going on my experience with the SonicPort, which had some similar models, at least in name, but didn't translate to the 500X at all. I'll try anything once.

Never been in the same room with an Amplifi, but I'm not sure which (if any) of the 500's amp models are in there. You may find it difficult to tone-match just by copying settings from the app to the 500. Stranger things have happened of course, but the 500 being the complicated beast that it is, I'd be surprised if anything translated at all.

Doubt its the frets...stock neck is a baseball bat.

I know that the official respsonse will never be anything other than that an "authorized tech" needs to do the work. I'm also pretty sure that you are good at what you do, or you wouldn't be doing it. But what I meant was, and what I suspect the other poster meant as well, is that any competent tech should be able to do a set up on a Variax, "authorized" or not. I have a guy I've been using for 15 years for the more complicated stuff (fretwork, etc) that I have neither the experience nor the patience for myself. He builds both solid body electrics and archtops from the tree stump on up. I'd stack his skills up against anybody's, even without having been annointed as "authorized" by L6. I suspect there are lots of Variax owners for whom going to an "authorized service center" simply is not practical, and I think it does them a disservice to imply that nothing but an "authorized" tech is capable of doing the job. It's also a distinct possibility that you are scaring away prospective buyers if they think that they will have to go to the ends of the earth to have basic service done. Just my 2 cents.

As long as you don't attempt the adjustment with a broadsword or chainsaw, there's no possible way to cause any permenent damage...easiest thing in the world to do.

Hallelujah! Can I get an 'Amen'?!?!?! If the fancy electronics completely take a dump, you might need assistance...but the rest of it is still just an electric guitar, same as every other one that has ever walked the earth. And the dreaded "set-up" is not nearly as supernatural as many seem to think.

If the problem really is the proximity of the mag pickups to the strings as suggested above, then that's easily remedied. And imho, you don't need a guitar tech to do it. You need a screwdriver...and about 8.5 to 10 seconds of free time. It's worth a shot. Try it out and let us know if it helped.