pianoguyy

Have you read the owners' manual(s)? There are 4 (or more) of them. They are all available for download.

I don't own the Helix. But I see no reason it cannot be done, as it can be done with the HD500. Again, I don't own the Helix - But you would simply assign a pitchshift to the exp pedal. Whether you assign the on/off or the pitch up/down... that's up to you. I can't imagine a basic issue like that would be lost on the newer stuff.

Usually it is the power supply. You bought one, which I assume was bought direct from L6 and not from a Chinese company selling knockoffs on Amazon for $1. Next step would be to do a factory reset... which the 500 does not have, but there is a process we call factory reset. It involves flashing the software and doing the system reset including pedal calibration. But the problem here is - you later dropped it. Short of taking it to "a trained service technician", there's no way for anyone to know if problem one and problem two are the same problem or if they are different problems with similar symptoms.

Bluetooth and the HD units does not exist. There are L6 bluetooth apps for other/newer units. However - if you are talking about 3rd party devices that can be controlled by 3rd party apps.... the world is your oyster

I'll be honest. I saw your post a week ago but am rarely logged on. But today, I signed in and saw that no one has answered, so allow me to respond - I don't know what you are saying. Could you be a little bit more descriptive/specific.

The next question.... Have you ever used an unauthorized charger or battery on your cell phone? I wouldn't be putting that up to your ear. Or in your pocket near to your 'nads.

also, is it the left arrow or the right. You'll have to forgive me on both accounts, because I haven't done either in some time. [EDIT] left arrow is correct. right arrow is a different process.

When flashing the system, uncheck the box that asks if you want to keep your patches.

UAFX Ruby '63 Top Boost Amplifier ? According to what little I read on it - I wouldn't put it "at the end". I would put it in the fx loop. And I would put it where you would put any amp model... being that it is essentially an amp modeler.

Well, if he plays the video and that isn't the noises he is talking about, then my post doesn't apply. If those are the noises, then he needs a new phone.

But the same rule applies, just virtually instead of physically. So, when you are setting up patches, you would want to have distortion before the (virtual) amp. You would want your echoes coming after your (virtual) amp. No fx loop required.

Assuming I am reading this correctly.... If you are using your combo solely as a volume machine (bypassing everything, using only the power section).... You needn't worry about using any thing related to the fx loop on the L6.

I've had two rigs over 40 years. One of them being my modeler that runs straight to the mixer. The other being a combo amp and fx. I ran that thing in a straight line. No fx loop. It took patience trying figure out what sounded better before this and after that. I even had 2 of some things so I could put it before and after something else. And no one ever accused me of having bad tone. So, while everyone raves about 4cm and the correct ways to do things... You can absolutely run these things into the front of your amp. There is no right or wrong. There is only - do what you gotta do to hear what you wanna hear.

I didn't realize we didn't know about this stuff that I needed to spell it out. 1G 2G 3G 4G 5G It has been a while since I had a phone that made the noise, but I am pretty sure it was 1G that made the noise. And I didn't think they existed anymore, particularly since they are getting rid of 3G.

It depends on what kind of tone you are looking for. Do you want to octave the fx or fx the octave. For some fx it might not make a big difference. But, the easiest example would be distortion - And I will take the 'octave' out of it and make it a nice harmonious 5th. Guitar players know the 5th is the power chord. A fifth then distortion will give you the power chord. But distortion and then the 5th will give you two guitar notes.

Depending on what kind of noise you are talking about.... get a new phone. I don't mean that as an insult. You need a new phone. They are doing away those towers, your phone isn't going to work soon. In fact, I thought those towers were already gone.

Wait... Define mono. XLR is always Left or Right. There is no left and right the way 1/4" can do. Also, does the HD500X have a 'line out'?

George Lucas once said... A movie is never 'done'. You set a release date, and that is when you hand it in. If you don't have that 'end date', you would continue to tweak and edit and re-shoot. And we all know what happened to Chinese Democracy by Guns 'n Roses... A 15 year wait for a mediocre album by a band no one cared about anymore. At some point, you just have to shut up and play.

You can delete your postings.

It can't be done. And even if it could be done, the units aren't the same, which means they would never sound the same.

I don't play music on computers. So, this may or may not even be what you are looking for But I am here, so I thought I would give it a shot since no one else has.... You can go into your computer's system properties/control panel and switch the sound card manually.

The correct answer is both yes and no. With the simplistic answer being yes. But first and foremost, the truth is, Silverhead is correct that you can use the file converter. But you don't need the file converter. So, now, let's get into this yes and no business. You are correct that they both use their own computer program. You are also correct that they use the 'same guts'. In fact, you can also add the non-X units into the mix. All four are the same (when updated to the latest firmware). However, each unit also uses its own file extension. That's where it gets interesting. If you open PRO X EDIT and search for files (via the menu/toolbar at the top), it will only find PRO X files. And this is because of those extensions. Each unit/edit looks for only its extensions. But, as a long time user, I rarely do it that way. I put my files into EDIT via the drag~n~drop method. It works much quicker, and is so much more flexible. Also, and this is the relevant part, doing it this way also allows us to use files that are not for the PRO X. Once in PRO X EDIT, if you choose to do so, you can save them, and it will save as the PRO X extension. You can also drag them out of EDIT into a folder and it will be the new extension. And the most painstaking way would be to go on your computer and rename all of the extensions without involving EDIT at all. (hint, great way to kill time on a long road trip while using a tablet, which doesn't use EDIT or the converter) Now, here's the kicker. Because the units are ever so slightly different, you do have to verify each file works as intended. Not just the previously mentioned DSP. There are some I/O differences. And, the most obvious would be the footswitches and exp pedal.

I am no fan of Apple. But I don't fault them for slowing down the old phones. Where they messed up was they should have told people, and maybe given them the option (especially since many people replaced their battery) instead of secretly forcing it on everyone. Batteries only charge x-amount of times before they show wear. A battery that can't run your phone makes the phone look bad to the uninformed. Slowing down an old phone with an old battery actually prevents numerous issues from happening.

For my Pod HD, I had a case/board designed with jacks built in. I wasn't plugging into my device each night, I was plugging into the case - the case was already plugged into the device. That way if a jack went bad, it was much easier to fix.

We all know that these things are programmed to instantly sound bad the minute the new thing comes out.