pianoguyy

or, you're an idiot good luck finding it cheaper again, you're an idiot

A used JBL Eon can be had cheap (get two for stereo). And, there are so many models, you have a wide array of options to choose from. But also, since an external speaker system is not your primary device - I would continue to design your tone as you currently do. And just run a cheap device as needed. Even when using a device, you can still run direct which means your tone is still 'your tone'. All the device will do is provide on-stage monitoring. Do you need your tone to be 100% accurate when it is only for you to hear yourself? To me, that means you don't even need a good device; just something to provide enough volume. So, check your local Craigslist type place and pick up a cheap bass amp. Or keyboard amp (I have a Peavey KB/A 100). The world is your oyster.

And let me first say, I despise Yamaha - the current owner of Line 6, which would be the one responsible for updating the drivers, but not the owner when the product was made. Of course, I also despise Apple, lol. With that being said; it really isn't L6's fault that Apple doesn't play well with others.

First, I hate trying to match 'live' tones simply because we usually don't know what the tone is. What we hear is usually some hodge podge of tone, pa, room, crowd, mics, etc.... But I step off the soap box.... Turn turn up the volume of the amp. Use the volume and tone on your guitar to adjust accordingly. *Also, according to some of his other videos, there is a wah in there creating the nasal eq.

If you bought it new, it should come with a USB cord. If you bought it used and need to buy one - don't be cheap. I mean, you can buy one from Wal-Mart. Its not like they are known for high quality expensive stuff. So, I didn't mean you had to go buy the gold wired USB that is triple insulated. But don't buy the ones from Amazon for $1.

well, sure, an external microphone preamps will improve vocals

Highly not recommended. Acoustic guitars, particularly when amplified (as is in this case), vary far too much for anyone to make a decent patch for someone else. I suggest you hook up your gear and start twisting knobs until it sounds good to you.

And just to cover all possible terminology differences..... As long as you haven't hit 'send' on the top-left of the EDIT program, they are still there.

Software - no, there is no difference. But, obviously, there are hardware issues. That's why people buy one or the other.

#3 - You can do this by itself if, as example, you have pedal problems. But you must always do #3 when you do #2. #1 - it is your choice as to whether you flash an older firmware, newer firmware, or simply reflash the firmware you already have. #1 and #2 - there's debate as to which to do first. Quite frankly, I listed them the way I want them done. But I also see nothing wrong with doing #2, #1, and then #2 again. If you do 2/1/2, you can skip #3 the first time you do #2 but must do #3 the 2nd time.

I absolutely loathe the fact that there isn't a 'factory reset' on this. But, as I've stated numerous times, I can understand why, simply because most people wouldn't reset their gear as often as I do. The ideal situation would be to have a factory reset option on Monkey - maybe with a 'install your preferred settings' option (like saving a computer's registry), so that we don't have to put in our favorites every time. rant over ===== Because there is no actual 'factory reset', the best we can do is tell you how to do what we have come to refer to as a factory reset. Depending on how much of a 'factory reset' you actually want to accomplish, there are 3 easy steps. Each step is it's own individual process that solves certain issues on their own. When combined, you have a factory new device. 1. flash the firmware. 2. perform a global reset. 3. do a pedal calibration.

But you obviously did it wrong, or else it would be working. So instead of being hard headed, try telling us what you did. Oh, I did 4cm, and I did it right. That's not an answer.

Two days, no one else had anything to offer. And, short of telling you that you are doing it wrong, what more did you want. You didn't actually offer up how you hooked it up for anyone to tell you where you went wrong. We just know that you did it wrong somewhere. And how is it that we know that you did it wrong...

yeah, so old that I hadn't even started saying my catchphrase: Buying an HD500x with the intentions of not using the amp modeling is the equivalent of buying a Ferrari solely to drive from your garage to the end of the driveway to get your mail. Assuming both units are in good working order, what you are experiencing is typically due to hooking it up wrong.

pretty odd i thought I was here the other day and answered this

1/4" you skipped a word if you connect only one XLR output you'll get but with the POD if you connect only one 1/4" jack output

pretty nice that you had a recording going at that exact moment At this point, I wouldn't worry about it. It happened once. Chalk it up to a CB driving by at that exact moment. Or a solar flare. We've all had our computers lock up on us, we don't throw them away. We reboot. Problem solved. Of course, if it happens regularly. Then we have something to look at.

Also worth noting: I don't have a YouTube, SoundCloud, or anything. I don't give my music away for free. Would you not download my tones because I play live for people and money instead of streaming for likes. Plus, there is a place for people to leave notes. If they want to post a link, they do.

One night, I was doing a show with [evil corporation]. And I had the opportunity to play on Brian May's rig. I didn't sound like Brian May. On another occasion, I've gotten to play with Les Paul. I sounded jazzy, but not like Les Paul. The point is - (assuming good faith) people create tones and post tones that they believe to be accurate. But they create them using their ears, their gear, their fingers. You don't have their ears, their gear, or their fingers. You will never sound like them. Even tones offered from YouTube videos don't transfer from user to user. It is just a fact of life. Sure, the idea of modeling tech is to be able to reproduce tone. But there are some variables that don't transfer.

It can be done on the 500, so I will assume it can be done on the Helix. The exact procedure - I don't know, because I don't use the tone (or the helix). But, it boils down to using a split signal, which you join at the end (if you want one signal). Create a dual signal chain and pan one left and pan one right. Take one of the frequency filters (such as anything below 400hz) and send it to the right. Add your octave. The left will be your guitar. Add the effects you want. You are basically creating a 'crossover' --- maybe the Helix has an crossover? Everything gets sent to the left. But anything below your G-string (which comes in at 391, with G# at 415) will be sent to the right, and will appear an octave lower.

but, to answer the question: there are plenty of leslie and roto effects in the go

pod go forum dataway=====>>>>

then it is something you are doing with the parameters.

It is the basic scenario for all Beatles, Elvis, Buddy Holly, etc era of music. Individual distortion pedals did not exist. Nor did separate gain stages of an amplifier.

as with many songs of that era, you turn your amp volume up to ten, which creates a natural distortion. you use a guitar with single coils, which adds fuzz you control the overall volume (and tone) via the guitar's volume and tone knobs